AMD 354 final exam
PERIODS AND INFLUENCES Men:
- 1500-1515: Renaissance/Italian - 1515-1550: German - 1550-1600: Spanish
PERIODS AND INFLUENCES Women:
- 1500-1530: Renaissance/Italian - 1530-1575: Spanish - 1575-1600: French and Elizabethan
1600-1710 PERIODS AND INFLUENCES Men:
- 1600-1625: Renaissance to Baroque - 1625-1650: Cavalier Style - 1650-1680: Louis XIV influences - 1680-1710: Three-piece suit
1600-1710 PERIODS AND INFLUENCES Women:
- 1600-1630: Renaissance to Baroque - 1630-1660: Cavalier style - 1660-1680: Transition - 1680-1710: French influences
The Zouave jacket was adapted for wear by children and women. This was inspired by military uniform of_____troops
Algerian
The term "macaroni" referred to
English men who adopted French and Italian-inspired fashions
Mereveilleuses were
Extremely fashionable women
The Garibaldi blouse was a red shirt worn by women in the 1860s that was named after a Civil War general.
False
The headdress below signified that a child was of royal status
False
Which of the following were not elements of men's costume during the 16th century in Northern Europe?
Farthingale
Which was the French name for the elaborate style headdress commonly known as commode in England?
Fontange
1575-1600 WOMEN THE NORTHERN RENAISSANCE
French/Elizabethan Influences- - Skirt wider at the top--bum roll - French farthingale - Larger lace ruffs/high collar type
1515-1550 MEN THE NORTHERN RENAISSANCE
German Influences • Decorative slashing • Square silhouette • Some doublets/jackets had gored skirts • Duck-billed shoes
Typically, dresses of the Empire period
Had a waistline above the actual waist, sitting just below the bust
King Louis XIV was well known for this aspect of dress
High heels with a red sole and heel
If a young Englishman of the 18th century referred to his uncle as "square toes," he would mean
His uncle was old-fashioned
The lower prices and increases in availability of cotton fabrics in the 1800s were a result of
Improvements in the technology for spinning cotton yarns
Which of the following descriptions are most accurate about 15th century Italian Renaissance women's dress?
Lavish use of fabrics with straight cut and decorative layering effects
Many men's boot styles of the Directoire/Empire periods were named after
Military heroes
A strong center of influences on mainstream women's fashion during the Romantic Period was
Paris
1500-1515 MEN THE NORTHERN RENAISSANCE
Renaissance/Italian Influences- - White linen shirts, round or square neckline - Doublets were waist-length - Jackets same length/shape - Hose with codpieces
1500-1530 WOMEN THE NORTHERN RENAISSANCE
Renaissance/Italian Influences- -Chemise, gown with fitted bodice, full skirt, one/two dress layers - Square or V-necklines - Sleeves narrow or wide funnel
Which garment is called a conch?
Sheer, gauze-like veils worn cape like over the shoulder with high neck
The Marie sleeve was unique, due to it being
Tied in at intervals with ribbons or bands
Many of the early costumes for sports for women were modeled after the Bloomer costume
True
What element of women's Italian dress showcases increased Italian trade with the Orient during the Renaissance?
Turban-like headdresses
A major change in the fit of stockings came about
When knitting machines were invented during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I
The style of headwear seen here would have been referred to as a bonnet
true
1660-1680 WOMEN
• Bodices lengthened and narrowed • Open or closed skirt • Horizontal neckline; edged with whisk (linen)
1500-1600 Men
• Camicia with close fitting doublet to create a narrower silhouette • Short sleeves on jacket show slashing of doublet • Distinct, padded codpieces
1450-1500 Women
• Chemise and dress, with or without overdress • Necklines lowered • Elaborate hairstyle
1680-1710 MEN
• Cravats • Knee-length coats replaced doublets • "Vest" and "waistcoat" used interchangeably
1500-1600 Women
• Decorative camicia visible • Square, wide, low necklines • Wider, fuller silhouette • Rigid bodice (influence from Spanish)
1825-1835 WOMEN
• Dresses identified by time of day to wear them • Variety of sleeve styles • Bustles to hold out skirts at back • Fuller skirts; varied lengths
1868 WOMEN
• Less fullness at the waist • Fullness moved to the back • Skirts gored instead of gathered
1730-1760 WOMEN
• Robe à la Française (Wattauback)—full pleated back, fitted front - Robe à l'Anglaise—close fit front and back - Engageants
1450-1500 Men
• Shirt with gusset/camicia • Doublet/jacket distinct neckline finish • Hose tied to doublet • Distinctive sleeve styles
1650-1680 MEN
• Shirts more visible, important • Bib-like shirt collar • Shortened doublet • Petticoat breeches (rhinegraves)
1835-1850 WOMEN
• Silhouette more subdued and sleeves "deflated" • Multiple sleeve styles • Full skirts • And it has pockets!
1860S WOMEN
• Skirts could be as large as 12-15 feet in circumference • Skirts were more pyramid- shaped
1840-1850 MEN
• Sleeves fit into armholes more smoothly around 1840 • Newmarket - new coat style • Waistcoats longer with point at front
1820-1825 WOMEN
- Transition period from Empire to Romantic styles - Waistline moving down from under bust - Trend toward larger sleeves
1700-1790 GENERAL TRENDS
- 1720-1770 Rococo Style - Smaller, more delicate than Baroque style - C- and S-curves, scrollwork - Curving lines of hoop- supported skirts; lace and flower decorations on dresses; pastel shades; embroidery
1600-1700 GENERAL TRENDS
- Baroque style: lavish ornamentation, free and flowing lines, flat and curved forms, massive not delicate - Stylistic elements evident in clothing, especially in first half of 17th century - Expanding trade with East Asia and cotton trade with India - Growth of professional clothing production
Which of the following descriptions are not accurate about 15th century Italian Renaissance women's dress?
- Bodices had a deep, v-shaped neckline w/ modesty pieces - A great deal of emphasis on body curves, fitting close and flaring skirts - Garments were draped, and based on classical antiquity
After Mid 18th Century MEN
- Coat fullness decreased, front curved to side - Waistcoat fabric was center of attention - Cravats replaced by stocks - Banyans
1500-1600 THE NORTHERN RENAISSANCE GENERAL TRENDS
- Divergence of men's and women's styles and silhouettes - Trade, exploration, and increase in wealth were reflected in dress - Shape of clothing ignores shape of the body and for the first time undergarments are used to reshape the body
1790-1820 WOMEN
- Dresses opened at front to purposely display elaborately decorated petticoat • Round gowns did not open at the front to show petticoats • Pelisse: preferred garment for outdoor wear; often padded for warmth; high waistline like dresses
What is the name of the skirt worn by the woman above?
- Drum farthingale - French farthingale - Wheel farthingale
1700-1790 GENERAL INFLUENCES
- Enlightenment - American Revolution, French Revolution - Trade with India; chintzes - Fashion plates, fashion babies - Increase in apparel-related jobs - Steam power; spinning wheel, spinning jenny
Up to Mid 18th Century MEN
- Enlightenment - American Revolution, French Revolution - Trade with India; chintzes - Fashion plates, fashion babies - Increase in apparel-related jobs - Steam power; spinning wheel, spinning jenny
1850-1870 GENERAL TRENDS
- Fashion and individual designers, such as Charles Worth - Changes in fashion were more details- based rather than silhouette-based - Sewing machine - Political influences: garibaldi blouses, zouave jackets, raglan sleeves - Development of synthetic dyes - Civil War accelerates men's ready-to-wear industry
1790-1820 GENERAL TRENDS
- France: Directoire Period c. 1790-1800—Government by the Directory - Women's silhouette changed radically; men's remained similar¡ Extremists: Merveilleuses (women) and Incroyables (men) - France: Empire Period c. 1800-1820—Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte - Basic dress style lines remained, but extremism disappeared - Napoleon restricted imports of fabric to stimulate French industry - England: Regency Period c. 1811-1820: George III/Prince Regent - Cotton gin 1794; Jacquard loom 1801
1850-1870 MEN
- Frock coats (left and right) and tailcoats were common - Instep straps on trousers disappeared after 1850 • Sack jackets were introduced in the 1840s and worn in this period, too • Loose, comfortable jacket with no waistline
1630-1660 WOMEN
- Gown with bodice and skirt seamed at slightly elevated waist; no farthingale - Lace collar; paned virago sleeves showing chemise
1715-1730 WOMEN
- Gowns open or closed at center front - Sacque or Robe Volante
The distinctive characteristics of Venetian dress reported by foreign visitors in the 16th century were
- Hair arranged in the shape of two horns at the forehead - A preference for "bleached" blonde hair - High, platform soled shoes that affected their balance when walking
1680-1700 WOMEN
- Higher, square neckline - Mantua: bodice and skirt one length shoulder to hem - Fontage/commode
1400-1450 Women
- Houppelandes with imaginatively cut sleeves - Hair more visible - Round, beehive hat
1400-1450 Men
- Many doublets knee length - Hukes over doublets - Wide, funnel-shaped or hanging houppelande sleeves - Shoe styles not as pointed
1500-1600 VENETIAN WOMEN
- Not influenced by Spain or France - Waistline below bust - Extremely high chopines - Bleach-blonde hair; "horn" hairstyle - Underdrawers
1650-1680 MEN: THE VEST
- Origin of prototype for 3-piece suit - Introduced to English court by Charles II 1666 - Below-knee-length coat - Vest of same length - Narrow breeches
1790-1820 MEN
- Revolution in men's clothing: simple colors, garments - Suit: coat, waistcoat, and breeches or trousers - Beau Brummel and dandies • Tight pantaloons or trousers had an instep strap to keep them secured
1760-1790 WOMEN
- Robe à la Française modified in the 1770s; not fashionable after 1780 - Robe à l'Anglaise modified and worn into 1780s • Polonaise, round gowns, Redingote, chemise à la reine
1820-1850 GENERAL TRENDS
- Romantic Period: expression of emotion, sentiment, and feelings that was a reaction to classical styles of 17th and 18th centuries - Costume styles of the past began to reappear - Women's roles increasingly confined to the home - Machine-made lace - Ready-made clothing expanded for men; still few choices for women - Major source of fashion information was women's magazines - 1840s: beginning of photographic portraiture — daguerreotypes
1625-1650 MEN
- Shirt with flat collar - Doublet laced to breeches that were full cut or tapering to knee - Boots with straight soles
18502 WOMEN
- Skirts widening in the 1850s - Skirts were dome- shaped
1820-1840 MEN
- Subtle details in cut and style for men who wanted to be fashionable - Suit continued to be coat, waistcoat and trousers - Tailcoats and frock coats most common
1700-1790 WOMEN'S UNDERGARMENTS
- Supporting undergarments shaped costume - Pan(n)iers - baskets - Hoop petticoats - Hip pads - Bustles - Corsets (Stays)
THE ITALIAN RENAISSANCE
1400-1600 CHAPTER 7
THE NORTHERN RENAISSANCE
1500-1600 CHAPTER 8
THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
1600-1700 CHAPTER 9
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
1700-1790 CHAPTER 10
THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD
1790-1820 CHAPTER 11
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
1850-1870 CHAPTER 13
A spencer was
An outer garment worn by both men and women
Paniers, a French term, means____in English
Baskets
Which component of dress was first seen during the Gold Rush of 1849 in California?
Blue jeans
Italian influences in styles were brought to France by
Catherine de Medici, an Italian who married a French king
Who is generally considered to be founder of Parisian haute couture?
Charles Frederick Worth
What is the historical dress term for the shoes being worn in this image?
Chopines
Different types of dresses were worn at different times during the day in Romantic period, such as
Day dresses, walking/promenade dresses, evening/ball dresses
1530-1575 WOMEN THE NORTHERN RENAISSANCE
Spanish Influences • Petticoat and an overdress • Spanish Verdugale/farthingale to create shape • Ropa, ruff
1550-1600 MEN THE NORTHERN RENAISSANCE
Spanish Influences- - Narrower shoulders - Doublet with peascod belly - New: trunkhose, ruff - Codpiece went out of style
The fashion for puffed and slashed decoration of costume of men and women entered Italian Renaissance styles in
The 15th century
The bonnet rogue, carmagnole, trousers, and tricolor cockade were worn by supporters of
The French Revolution
Which of the following would have been working class clothing during the 18th century
Wigs, smocks, and short gowns
Menswear during the Romantic Period included:
riding coats, frock coats, tail coats
In which of these countries did members of the royal family wear a farthingale-like garment after the 17th century?
spain
Which of the following styles are thought to have derived from Middle Eastern styles?
the vest and the manteau
1600-1710 PERIODS AND INFLUENCES
• Transitionary time • Wide-bottom styles continued for both • Shirt, doublet, jacket, trunkhose or knee breeches • Trunkhose became baggy and full • Stomacher, false sleeves, farthingale wider at hips • Cartwheel ruff
