CH 14 ~ PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN 3

STYLING FOR EYEGLASSES

Eyeglasses have become a fashion accessory. Keep in mind that the arm can push the hair at the ear and cause it to stick out

FACIAL TYPES

Face is divided into three zones; forehead to eyebrows, eyebrows to end of nose, and end of nose to bottom of chin.

COMBINATIONS OF HAIR TYPES Straight, coarse hair

Hard to curl and carries more volume that first two types. Casts a wider silhouette and responds well to thermal styling; blow-drying may create too much volume unless flat brushes are used; chemical services may take longer.

Concave profile

Has prominent forehead and chin with other features inward. Use soft styling at nape with an upward movement; do not build hair on forehead.

Contrasting Lines

Horizontal and vertical lines that meet at a 90-degree angle; create a hard edge; usually reserved for clients with a strong personality for a strong look.

Creating Dimension with Color

Light or warm colors create the illusion of volume. Dark or cool colors recede or move in toward head and create illusion of less volume. When colors that are warm and cool alternate with those that are light and dark, the illusion of dimension is created

LINE

Lines create form, design, or movement; can be straight or curved.

Balance

Means harmony or proportion in styling; signifies the proper degree of height and width; can be symmetrical or asymmetrical. Divide face into four equal parts. Where lines cross is central axis. If style is symmetrical, both sides are same distance from axis and same length and volume.

HARMONY

Means the orderly and pleasing arrangement of shapes and lines; holds all elements of the design together. A harmonious style is in proportion to the client's facial and body structure.

HEAD SHAPES

Not all are round. Design for volume in areas that are flat or small and reduce volume in areas that are large or prominent.

COMBINATIONS OF HAIR TYPES Straight, medium hair

Offers more versatility; responds well to blow-drying; has good movement; responds well to rollers and thermal styling.

Horizontal

Parallel to floor or horizon. Create width; the eye follows the line from center out to ends.

Diagonal

Positioned between horizontal and vertical; used for emphasis or to minimize facial features; also create interest

Convex profile

Receding forehead and chin. Calls for arrangement of curls or bangs over forehead. Keep style close to head at nape and move hair forward in the chin area

FORM

The outline or silhouette of the style as seen from all angles. should be in proportion to shape of head and face, length and width of neck, and the shoulder line.

EMPHASIS

The place the eye sees first. Eye then travels to the rest of the design. Emphasis created in several ways.

PROFILES

The profile is the outline of the face, head, or figure as seen from the side.

RHYTHM

The regular, recurrent pattern of movement in a style; it can be fast or slow. Fast rhythm moves quickly (tight curls). Slow rhythm can be seen in larger shapings or long waves.

Color Selection

Tone must be compatible with client's skin tones. When using two or more colors, they should be within two levels of each other. If using high-contrast colors, use one sparingly

TEXTURE Designing with wave patterns.

Use of many wave patterns creates a busy look; smooth wave patterns accent face and are good for narrowing a round head shape; curly wave patterns take attention away from face and might be used to soften square or rectangular features

PARTINGS FOR FRINGE Curved part

Used for receding hairline and high forehead

STYLE PARTS Diagonal parts

Used to create illusion of width or height in a style.

STYLE PARTS Side parts

Used to direct hair across top of head; develop height on top and make thin hair appear fuller.

Creating Lines with Color

Using lighter color, you can draw a line in the direction you want eye to travel; can create interesting or dramatic accent

Transitional Lines

Usually curved lines and are used to blend and soften horizontal and vertical lines.

COMBINATIONS OF HAIR TYPES Fine, straight hair

Usually hugs head due to little or no body or volume. Styling aids and chemical services will be required to create the most flattering style.

COMBINATIONS OF HAIR TYPES Wavy, coarse hair

Wide silhouette; chemical services like mild relaxers work well; educating client about at-home maintenance is crucial.

INFLUENCE OF HAIR TYPES

based on two major characteristics: wave patterns and hair texture. Wave patterns: straight, wavy, curly, extremely curly. Texture: fine, medium, coarse.

COMBINATIONS OF HAIR TYPES Wavy, fine hair

Can appear fuller with appropriate cut and style such as layering; responds well to blow-drying and chemical services; can be straightened by blow-drying; diffusing will create fuller appearance.

HAIR PARTS

Can be focal point for a hairstyle because eye is drawn to it. Parts should be clean and neat. Use natural part whenever possible.

Color Psychology (3 things)

Can create texture and lines. Can tie design elements together. Can evoke certain reactions.

DESIGNING FOR MEN MUSTACHE AND BEARD SHAPES

Can discreetly disguise a facial flaw. Facial hair should always appear well-groomed and flattering to the client regardless of the current trend.

TEXTURE Chemicals.

Chemical wave pattern changes are considered permanent. Curly hair can be straightened; straight hair can be curled.

STYLE PARTS Center parts

Classic; usually used for an oval face; give an oval illusion to wide and round faces; do not use with prominent noses.

Symmetrical balance

Design is similar on both sides; both are the same distance from the center, the same length, same volume (even if a different shape).

COMBINATIONS OF HAIR TYPES Curly, fine hair

Avoid too much length which separates and reveals scalp; responds well to mild relaxers and color; blow-drying may only work with short layers.

Vertical

Straight up and down; make a style appear longer and narrower; eye follows lines up and down.

Single Line

Best for minimum care such as a one-length style.

Straight profile

Considered ideal; has slight curvature; all hairstyles are flattering with a straight profile.

STYLE PARTS Zigzag parts

Create a dramatic effect in a style

COMBINATIONS OF HAIR TYPES Curly, medium hair

Creates a wide silhouette; looks romantic if left natural; make sure weight line is flattering to client; responds well to relaxers and color.

Asymmetrical balance

Features unequal proportions designed to balance facial features. Opposite sides are different lengths or volume; can be horizontal or diagonal.

COMBINATIONS OF HAIR TYPES Wavy, medium hair

Flexible; if diffused, could look curly; if blown dry, could look straight.

PARTINGS FOR FRINGE Diagonal

Gives height to a round or square face and width to a long, thin face.

Body Proportion

Hair and body proportions must be compatible. EXAMPLE: Large hips or broad shoulders, larger hairstyle. Hair should never be wider than center of shoulders.

TEXTURE

Hair texture or wave patterns must be considered. Straight to curly hair reflect light in different ways.

PROPORTION

Relationship between objects relative to their size.

Parallel Lines

Repeating lines in a style that are straight or curved. Repetition creates interest; finger wave is an example.

COMBINATIONS OF HAIR TYPES Curly, coarse hair

Requires lots of heavy styling aids; can easily overwhelm client. Don't cut too short.

COMBINATIONS OF HAIR TYPES Very curly, fine hair

Short is better; if left long, silhouette will be too wide and voluminous;responds well to chemical services, but take care with relaxers; hair pressing is all right if not overdone.

DESIGNING FOR MEN STYLES

Should be flattering and appropriate for client's career, hair type, and lifestyle.

COMBINATIONS OF HAIR TYPES Extremely curly, medium hair

Silhouette can get very wide; relaxers work well to make the shape narrower; hair pressing and thermal styling are good options; if left natural, cropping close to head in a flattering shape is great for ease of styling and low maintenance.

COMBINATIONS OF HAIR TYPES Extremely curly, coarse hair

Silhouette will be way too wide without proper maintenance. Relaxing is recommended; if client does not want chemical services, try short, cropped layers.

Curved

Soften a design; can be large or small; full or partial circles; can be placed horizontally, vertically, or diagonally; curved lines repeating in opposite directions are called waves.

TEXTURE Styling tools.

Texture can be created with heat and/or wet styling techniques.

SPACE

The area the style occupies. Also called volume. It's three dimensional as well having length, width, depth. May contain curls, curves, waves, straight hair, or a combination.

PARTINGS FOR FRINGE Triangular

The basic parting for bang sections