Chapter 14 Principles of Hair Design

Balance

Establishing equal or appropriate proportions to create symmetry. In hairstyling, it can be proportion of height to width. Balance can be symmetrical or asymmetrical. To measure symmetry, divide the face into four equal parts. The lines cross at the central axis, the reference point for judging the balance of the design.

Straight, coarse hair

Hard to curl and carries more volume than straight medium and straight fine. Casts a slightly wider silhouette. Responds well to thermal styling. Flat brushes are better for this hair tip because of a wide diameter in the hair shaft. Round brushes create too much volume. Chemical services take longer to process

Contrasting Lines

Horizontal and vertical lines that meet at a 90 degree angle. Create a hard edge. Usually for clients able to carry off a strong look

Fine, straight hair

Hugs head shape. No body or volume. Silhouette small and narrow.

Styling for people with glasses

If choosing a short haircut, reconsider length of hair around ears opting wither to leave a little longer than ear or cut above and around ear. For styling, choose a style in which there is enough hair covering the ear (Fine hair may pop out at ear) or direct the hair away from the face, so the arms of glasses aren't an issue

Haircolor Design

Important both visually and psychologically. Can be used to make appear larger or smaller. Help define texture and line and can tie elements together.

Dimension with Color

Light colors and warm colors create the illusion of volume. Dark and cool colors recede or move in toward the head, creating the illusion of less volume. The illusion of dimension, or depth is created when colors that are lighter and warmer alternate with those that are darker and cooler.

5 Elements of Hair Design

Line Form Space Texture Color

Curved Lines

Lines moving in a circular or semi-circular direction, soften a design. Can be large or small, a full circle, or part of a circle. Can be clockwise or counter-clockwise. Can be place horizontally, vertically or diagonally. Curved lines repeating on opposite directions create a wave.

Directional Lines

Lines with a definite forward or backward movement

Oblong Facial Type

Long, narrow face with hollow cheeks Objective: To make face appear shorter and wider. Styling Choice: Keep hair fairly close to top of head. Add volume on sides to create illusion of width. Should not be too long, as this will elongate the oblong shape of face. Chin length styles are most effective

Straight, medium hair

More versatility than fine straight. Responds well to blowdrying with various sized brushes and has a good amount of movement Also responds well to rollers and thermal styling

Very curly, fine hair

Most flattering style must be determined before you begin styling. Generally best cut short. If long, silhouette will be wide and extremely voluminous. Chemical services and hair pressing take well, but but be careful if hair is fragile

Diamond Facial Type

Narrow forehead, extreme width through cheekbones, and narrow chin. Objective: To reduce width across cheekbone line Styling Choice: Increase fullness across jaw line and forehead while keeping hair close to the head at cheek bone line. Avoid hairstyles that lift away fro the cheeks or move back from the hairline on the sides near the ear area.

Triangular Facial Type (Pear Shaped)

Narrow forehead, wide jaw and chin line Objective: To create illusion of width in forehead. Styling Choice: A style that has volume at the temples and some height at the top. You can disguise the narrowness of the forehead with a soft bang or fringe.

Curly, coarse hair

Needs heavy styling products to weigh it down. When cutting remember hair will shrink considerably when dry, making it appear much shorter.

Symmetrical Balance

Occurs when an imaginary line is drawn through the center of the face and the two resulting halves form a mirror image. Both sides of the style are the same distance from the center, the same length, and have the same volume when viewed from the front

Wavy, medium hair

Offers the most versatility in styling. Can be diffused to look curly, or be easily straightened by blowdrying

Seven Basic Face Shapes

Oval Round Square Triangle (Pear Shaped) Oblong Diamond Inverted Triangle (Heart Shaped)

Diagonal Lines

Positioned between horizontal and vertical lines. Often used to emphasize or minimize facial features. Also used to create interest.

Concave Profile

Prominent forehead and chin, with other features receded inward. Should be accommodated by softly styling the hair at the nape with an upward movement. Do not build hair onto the forehead

5 Principles of Hair Design

Proportion Balance Rhythm Emphasis Harmony

Convex Profile

Receding forehead and chin. Calls for an arrangement of curls or bangs over forehead. Keep style close to head at nape and move hair forward in chin area

Body Proportion

Taking into account the client body shape and size. For broad hips or broad shoulders you would normally create a style with more volume, which would appear out of proportion on a petite person. A general guide for classic proportion is that the hair should not be wider than the center of the shoulders, regardless of body structure.

Profiles

The outline of the face, head or figure seen in side view. There are three basic profiles: Straight Convex Concave

Tips for Designing Wave Patterns

When using many wave patterns together, you create a look that is very busy. This is fine for a client who wants to achieve a multi textured look, but may be less appropriate for more conservative professionals. Smooth wave patterns accent the face and are particularly useful when you wish to narrow a round head shape. Curly wave patterns take attention away from the face and can be used to soften square or rectangular features.

Style Partings Diagonal Back

Used to create the illusion of width or height

Style Partings Side Partings

Used to direct hair across the top of the head. Help develope height on top mad make hair appear fuller

Transitional Lines

Usually curved lines that are used to blend and soften horizontal or vertical lines

Curly, fine hair

When worn long, often separates, revealing scalp, unless thick in density. responds well to mild relaxers and color services. Blowdrying difficult unless cut into short layers. Blowdrying not effective if in humid environment

Square Facial Type

Wide at temples, narrow at middle third of face, and squared off at jaw. Objective: To offset or round out square features Styling Choice: Soften hair around temples and jaw by bringing the shape or silhouette close to the head form. Create volume in area between temples and jaw by adding width around ear area

Inverted Triangle Facial Type (Heart Shaped)

Wide forehead and narrow chin line. Objective: Decrease width of forehead and increase width of lower face Styling Choice: Style hair close to the head with no volume. A bang or fringe is recommended. Gradually increase the width of the silhouette as you style the middle third of the shape on the cheek bone area and near the ears, and keep the silhouette at its widest at the jaw and neck area.

Special Considerations Top Third of Face

Wide forehead: Direct hair forward over sides of forehead Narrow forehead: Direct hair away from face at forehead. Lighter highlights may be used at temples to create illusion of width Receding forehead:Direct bangs over forehead with an outwardly directed volume Large forehead: Use bangs with little or no volume to cover the forehead

Determine Facial Shape

Divide into three zones Forehead to eyebrow Eyebrows to end of nose End of nose to bottom of chin

Asymmetrical Balance

Established when the two imaginary halves have an equal visual weight, but are positioned unevenly. Opposite sides of the style are different lengths or different volume. Asymmetry can be horizontal or diagonal.

Wavy, fine hair

Can appear fuller with appropriate cut and style. Layering will help look fuller. Responds well to blowdrying and chemical services. Hair is fragile so be careful not to overdo any service. Blowdrying to straighten will sacrifice volume. If diffused, will have fuller appearance.

Wavy, coarse hair

Can produce a very wide silhouette.. Can appear unruly if not shaped properly. Unless client is proficient at styling, try to work out a flattering shape that is easy to maintain. A soft perm can bring an easy wash and wear curly style. A chemical relaxer might work very well if a straighter look is preferred.

Rhythm

A regular pulsation or recurrent pattern of movement in a design. A fast rhythm moves quickly, like tight curls. A slow rhythm can be seen in larger shapings or long waves.

Changing Design Texture with Chemicals

Chemical wave patterns are considered permanent. They last until new growth of hair is long enough to alter the design. Curly hair can be straightened with relaxers, and straight hair can be curled with permanent waves.

Style Partings Center Partings

Classic. Used for an oval face, but also give and oval illusion to wide and round faces. Avoid on people with prominent noses.

Line

Defines form and space. Lines create the shape, design and movement of a hairstyle.The eye follows the lines in a design. Can be straight or curved. There are four basic types of lines: Horizontal, Vertical, Diagonal and Curved

Head Shape

Design style with volume in areas that are flat or small while reducing with volume in areas that are large or prominent

Emphasis

Also known as Focus. Draws the eye first before it travels to the rest of the design. You can create interest using: Wave patterns Color Change in form Ornamentation Choose an area of the head or face that you want to emphasize. Keep the design simple so it is easy for the eye to follow. You can have multiple points of emphasis as long as you do not use too many and as long as they are decreasing in size and importance.

Single Lines

An example is a one length hairstyle. Best for clients requiring lowest maintenance styling.

Color Selection

Be sure the tone is compatible with the skin tone. If client has gold skin tone, warm colors are more flattering for her than cool. For a more conservative or natural look when using two or more colors, choose similar tones within two levels of each other. When using high contrast colors in most situations, you should use one color sparingly. A strong contrast can create an attention grabbing look and should only be used on clients who are trendy and can carry of a bold look

Lines with Color

Because the eye is drawn to the lightest color, you can use a light color to draw a line in a style in the direction you want the eye to travel. A single line of color, or a series of repeated lines of color, can create a bold, dramatic accent

Special Considerations Middle Third of Face

Close-set eyes: Usually found on long, narrow faces. Direct hair back and away from the face at the temples. A side movement from a diagonal back part with some height is advisable. A slight lightening of the hair at the corner of the eyes will give the illusion of width. Wide-set eyes: Usually found on Round or Square faces. Use a higher half bang to create length in the face. This will give the face the illusion of being larger and will make the eyes appear more proportional. The hair should be slightly darker at the sides than the top Crooked nose: Asymmetrical, off center styles are best. as they attract the eye away from the nose. Symmetrical styles will accentuate the fact that the face is not even. Wide, flat nose: Draw the hair away from the face and use a center part to help elongate and narrow the nose. Long, narrow nose. Select a style where the hair moves away from the face, creating the illusion of wider facial features Small nose: Hair should be swept off face, creating a line from the nose to ear. Top of hair should be moved off forehead to give the illusion of length to nose. Prominent nose: Bring hair forward at forehead with softness around face

Straight Profile

Considered ideal. Neither convex (curving outward) nor concave (curving inward) Although even a straight profile has a very slight curvature. Generally all styles are flattering to the straight or ideal profile

Style Partings Zig Zag

Create a dramatic effect

Vertical Lines

Create length and height. Make a hairstyle appear longer and narrower as the eyes follow the lines up and down

Horizontal Lines

Create width. Extend in same direction and maintain a constant distance apart. From the floor or horizon.

Curly, medium hair

Creates wide silhouette. Left natural gives soft, romantic look. Wide silhouette should be in proportion to body shape and not overwhelm it. When shaping, keep in mind where the weight line of haircut will fall. Responds well to relaxers and color.

Harmony

Creation of Unity in a design and is the most important of the art principles. Harmony holds all the elements together. When a style is harmonious it has: A Form with interesting lines A pleasing color or combination of color and texture A Balance and Rhythm that together strengthen the design An area of Emphasis from which the eye move to the rest of the style A harmonious design is never too busy and is in proportion.

Hair Texture

Fine Medium Coarse

Oval Facial Type

Form the basis and ideals for evaluating and modifying all other facial types. About one and a half times longer than its width across brow. Forehead is slightly wider than chin. Can easily wear any style unless there are other considerations, such as eyeglasses, length and shape of nose, or profile

Hair Density

Hair per square inch, from very thin to very thick

Design Texture

Refers to wave patterns that must be taken into consideration when designing a style. All hair has a natural wave pattern - straight, wavy, curly or extremely curly. IE: Straight hair reflects more light than other wave patterns, and reflects the most light when cut at one length. Wavy hair can be combed into waves that create horizontal lines. Curly hair and extremely curly hair do not reflect much light and can be course to the touch. Curly hair creates a larger form than straight or wavy hair does

Parallel Lines

Repeating lines in a style. Can be straight or curved. Repetition of lines creates more interest in the design. A finger wave is an example of a style using curved parallel lines

Special Considerations Lower Third of Face

Round Jaw: Use straight lines a jaw line Square jaw: Use curved lines at jaw line Long jaw: Hair should be full and fall below the jaw to direct attention away from it Receding chin: Hair should be directed forward in the chin area Small chin: Move the hair up and away from the face along the chin. Large chin: The hair should be either longer or shorter than the chin line to avoid drawing attention to the chin

Round Facial Type

Round hairline and round chin line, wide face. Objective: Create illusion of length to make appear slimmer Styling Choice: Height or volume on top, closeness to no volume on sides

An artistic and suitable hairstyle takes into consideration

Shape of head Face shape Profile Back view Perfect and imperfect feature Body posture

Extremely curly, medium hair

Silhouette can get very wide. Hair can look wider than longer when it grows. Chemical relaxers work very well to make shape look narrower. Hair pressing also good option. Thermal styling can follow pressing. If left in natural state, cropping close to head in a flattering shape is great for ese of styling and low maintenance.

Extremely curly, coarse hair.

Silhouette extremely wide. Chemical relaxing often recommended to make it easier to style with other thermal services. Short, cropped layers make silhouette narrower.

Designing with Lines

Single Lines, Parallel lines, Contrasting lines, Transitional lines, Directional lines

Wave patterns

Straight Wavy Curly Extremely Curly

Create Design Texture with Styling Tools

Texture can be created temporarily with the use f heat and/or wet styling techniques. Curling irons or hot rollers can be used to create wave or curl. Curly hair can be straightened with a blow dryer or flat iron. Crimping irons are used to create interesting and unusual wave patterns like zig zags. Hair can also be wet set with rollers or pin curls to create curls and waves. Finger waves, braids and locks are another way of creating temporary textured pattern changes.

Form

The Mass or general outline of a style. It is three dimensional and has length, width and depth. Form or Mass may also be called Volume. Silhouette. Should be in proportion to the shape of head and face, the length and width of the neck, and the shoulder line

Space

The area surrounding the form or area the style occupies. We are more aware of the positive form than the negative spaces. With every movement the relationship of form and space change. A stylist must keep every angle in mind. The form being created and the spaces surrounding the form. Space may contain curls, curves, waves, straight hair, or any combination.

Hair partings Bangs/Fringe

The bang area, also known as fringe area is the triangular section that begins at the apex, or high point of the head, and ends at the front corners. The bang is parted in theree basic ways: A triangular parting is the basic parting for bang sections A diagonal parting gives height to a round or square face and width to a long, thin face. A curved part is used for a receding hairline or high forehead.

Proportion

The comparative relationship of one thing to another. Creating the illusion of better proportion to balance out ill proportionate features