Chapter 20 - Makeup - Milady's Standard Esthetics
Color wheel
A circle in which the primary, secondary & an intermediate hues are arranged in orderly intervals, 12 in total
Warm Hues
A color characterized by long wavelengths. Hues on the left side of color wheel
Cool Hues
A color characterized by short wavelengths. Hues on the right side of color wheel
Eyebrow Pencil
A cosmetic in soft, solid, or powdered form applied to give color and shape to the eyebrows
Aniline Derivatives
A derivative which is not FDA approved; causes blindness when used as eyelash and eyebrow tinting
Tone
A dulling of the hue, making it more neutral & less intense
Liquid Cosmetics
A fluid colorant in which pigments are dissolved or suspended
Shade
A hue into which various quantities of black are mixed
Tint
A hue into which various quantities of white are mixed
Archromatic color
A neutral color such as white, black or gray
Complementary Colors
A primary & secondary color positioned directly opposite each other on the color wheel
Cream Cosmetics
A semi-solid consistency
Law Of Color
A system that is used to understand the color relationships
Pear Shaped Face
A wide jaw & narrow forehead
Tertiary Color
Achieved by mixing equal amounts of a secondary color & it's neighboring primary color. Blue-green & Red-Violet are examples.
Chiaroscuro
Art of arranging light & dark so as to produce 3-D shapes
Minimize Prominent Features
Base rule of makeup application is that highlighting emphasizes a feature & shadowing
Minimizes A Feature
Basic rule of makeup application is that highlighting emphasizes a feature & shadowing
Natural Light
Best type of lighting for color selection in the spa consultation area. Best choice in lighting when doing makeup.
Round Shaped Face
Broader in proportion to its length, includes round chin & hairline
Apply more definition to eyes, lips and cheeks
Change your clients makeup look if they were involved in a special occasion that involved subdued lighting
Should be determine during a makeup consultation
Clients lifestyle and preferences, hair & eye color, natural skin tone & face shape
Base Color
Color applied over the eye area to even out skin tones & provide a smooth surface for the blending of other colors
Contour Color
Color in any finish that deepens & darkens the skin tone & minimizes a specific area.
Absorption
Colored object that obsorbs rays of light, which illuminate it while others are reflected
Lip Liner
Colored pencil or brush used to outline the lips & to help keep lip color from feathering or bleeding into small lines around the mouth
Complements
Colors directly opposite on the color wheel; Yellow Purple; Yellow Green Red Violet; Red Green; Blue Green Red Orange; Blue Orange; Yellow Orange Blue Violet
Secondary Colors
Colors obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors. Orange, Green, and Purple.
Cool Colors
Colors that suggest coolness & are dominated by blues, greens, violets & blue-reds
Dry Brushes Over Time
Commercial sanitizers may be used to clean makeup brushes, but may do what after repetitive use
Neutralize Each Other
Complementary colors are used in color
Red-Orange, Red-Violet, Violet
Complementary colors for green eyes are brown-based red, which include:
Copper, Plum & Mauve
Complementary colors for green eyes are brown-based reds, which includes:
Enriching Colors
Complements
Neutral Skin Tones
Consider skin tones that contain equal amounts of warm & cool colors
Powder
Consistency of blush that is suitable for all skin types
Lip Color
Cosmetic in sitck, cream, or paste form, usually in a metal or plastic tube, manufactured in a variety of colors & used to color the lips; also called lipstick or gloss
Bronzer
Cosmetic liquid or powder applied to the skin to give it colour or shine, typically to give the appearance of a suntan
Eye Shadows
Cosmetic powder applied on the upper eyelids, eyebrows, or lash line to accentuate or contour
Eye Makeup Removers
Cosmetic preparations for removing eye makeup
Mascara
Cosmetic prepartions used to darken, define & thicken the eyelashes
Foundation
Cosmetic, usually tinted, that is used as a base makeup or as a protective film. Used to cover or even out the coloring of skin. It is Applied as the first layer of makeup. Available in stick, cream, mineral powder, and liquid. Protects skin from outside elements.
Concealers
Cosmetics used to hide dark eye circles, dark splotchers & other imperfections also used to cover blemishes & discolorations; may be applied before or after foundation
Blush/Rouge
Cream or powder applied to the cheek & other warm areas of the face
Cheek color
Cream or powder cosmetic used to color the cheeks & the skin beneath the cheekbones also called blush
Pigments Of The Skin
Dark Brown, Yellow, Red, White
One
Darkest vaule of color
Protective Head Covering
Draping for makeup includes:
Green
Equal combination of yellow & blue creates
Violet
Equal parts of blue and red mixed create
Black
Equal portions of primary colors will produce this
Before Each Use
Eyebrow pencils should be sharpened & wiped
Band Lashes (strip lashes)
Eyelash hairs on a strip that are applied with adhesive to the natural lash line
Squared Shaped Face
Facial shape composed of comparatively straight lines, a wide forehead & square jaw
Face Powder
Fine cosmetic powder, sometimes tinted & scented, that is used to add a matte or nonshiny dull finish to the face
Client Consultation
First step in the makeup process
Outward & Downward Motions
Foundation application should start at the center of the face & blended in this direction
Lighter
Generally a darker shade of eye color makes the natural color of the iris appear
Transparent
Having the propety of transmitting rays of light through its substance so that a body situated beyond or behind it can be distinctly seen. These cosmetics can be: liquid, cream or powder
Greasepaint
Heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes
Advantages of airbrush makeup
Hygienic, long-lasting, rub and water resistant, more efficient,faster to apply, lightweight, natural, flawless looking
3
Ideal eyebrow shape can be drawn into____lines
Oval
Ideal face shape, widest at temple and forehead, tapers down to chin
Before Lip Color
Ideal time to apply lip liner
Before Applying Mascara
Ideal time to curl the eyelashes with a curler
Concealer First
If using powder foundation, does the concealer come first or second
Incandescent Light, Fluorescent Light
If you must choose artificial light combine this kind
Iris Of The Eye Upward
In eyebrow arching, the highest part of the eyebrow arch should be from the outer circle to the this point
Binding Agents
Keep pressed powder in a cake form
Value
Lightness or darkness of a color
Even & Symmetrical
Lipstick should be______________on both sides of the mouth
Water, Oil, Talc
Liquid & cream forms of makeup are mix of______________&___________as a base, with___________& various color agents called pigments
Eyeliner
Liquid, cake or pencil cosmetic applied as an outline to where the eyelashes join the eyelid & used to emphasize the eyes
Oblong Shaped Face
Long, narrow facial shape with greater length in proportion to its width
Analyze, Balance & Accentuate
Makeup artists must know how to _____ facial features
Grease Paint Or Pancake Makeup
Makeup is used for theatre
Blush
Makeup product primarily used to add a natural glow to the cheek or face area
Cheek Color Powder
Makeup product used primarily to add a natural looking glow to the cheeks or facial area; also known as blush or rouge
Inner, Outer Corners
Mascara should be applied from____________to____________
Disposable Wand
Mascara should be applied with
Titanium Dioxide
Mineral/sunscreen ingredient is commonly used in mineral makeup products
Tertiary Hue
Mixture of one primary & one secondary colors or an unbalanced mixture of complements with the warm hue predominant
Gray
Mixture of the three primary hues in equal amounts
Quality
Most important when choosing a makeup line
Hue
Name of the color
Lakes
Natural derived pigments or color agents added to foundations to provide color
Matte
Nonshiny, flat or dull makeup that is achieved by powdering
Dulling Colors
Not complements
Opaque
Not transparent or translucent; not allowing light to pass through. A concealing cosmetic. These cosmetics can be: liquid or cream
Cream
Oil base foundations are thick & solid, sold in a jar & that provide a heavier base coverage usually used on dry skin
Makeup Cape
Prevents the transfer to clothing
Blue
Primary color provides the most depth or darkness. Undertone cool colors have
Maximize good features,minimize less attractive ones
Primary goal of makeup
Eye Tabbing
Procedure in which individual synthetic eyelashes are attached directly to a client's own lashes at their base
Eyelash Adhesive
Product used to make artificial eyelashes adhere, or stick, to the natural lash line
Primary Colors
Pure or fundamental colors that cannot be achieved from a mixture. Red, Blue, Yellow, only three in existence.
Warm Colors
Range of colors from yellow & gold through oranges, red-oranges, most reds
Tertiary (Intermediate) Colors
Red Orange; Yellow Green; Blue Violet; Yellow Orange; Blue Green; Red Violet
Top Of Eyebrows To End Of Nose
Second portion of oval-shaped type face is measured from the:
Individual Lashes
Separate artificial eyelashes that are applied on top of the lashes one at a time.
Cake (pancake) Makeup
Shaped, solid mass applied to the face with a moistened cosmetic sponge; gives good coverage
Juxtaposition
Simultaneous contrasts
Powder Cosmetics
Solid substance in the state of fine, loose particles, produced by crushing or grinding
Translucent
Somewhat transparent; transmiitting light but not causing sufficient diffusion to eliminate perception of distinct images. They can be: liquid, cream or powder
Intensity (Chroma or Saturation)
The amount of strength a color has, brightness or dullness of color
Jawline
The color of the foundation can be tested by applying to the:
Width Of One Eye
The distance between the eyes should be
Pencil
The most common type of eyeliner
Spectrum
The progressive arrangement of colors (ROY G BIV) when a beam of light is broken down into component colors. We perceive color due to the absorption or reflection of light off the objects we are looking at.
Reflection
The return of light from a surface
Monochromatic hue
Tint tones & shades of one hue
Ferrule Pointing Downward
To clean professional makeup brushes, a gentle shampoo or brush solvent is used & brush is placed into running water in this position
Down The Center Of Nose, Ending At The Tip
To minimize a short, flat nose, a lighter foundation is applied
Translucent Powder
To set foundation
Analogous Colors
Two or more hues that have the same hue in common
Water Based
Type of foundation is used for lighter coverage. Recommended foundation for light coverage on oily to combination skin.
Disposable Makeup Sponge
Used to blend foundations
Spatula
Used to remove substances from containers
Shading
Using colours to make face areas look shrunken
Highlighting
Using colours to make face areas stand out
After Image
Visual impression remaining after a stimulus is removed
Horizontal
When examining an oval face, we divide it into _______________equal sections
Carotene
Yellow pigment of the skin
Gentle Shampoo/Brush Solvent
___________________________should be used to truly clean brushes
Makeup artists must know how to ______ facial features.
analyze, balance, accentuate pleasing
A brush with a firm, thin, angled bristle that is used on the eyebrows, or for eyeliner, is called a(n):
angle brush
When complementary colors are placed next to each other, they:
appear brighter
For special occasions involving subdued lighting, you should:
apply more definition to the eyes, lips and cheeks
If the client has a round face, you should:
arch the brows high
Where should you distribute your products after selecting your colors foundation?
artist's pallet
At what point in the application should you use an eyelash curler?
before you apply mascara
You can minimize protruding eyes by:
blending a dark shadow carefully over the prominent part of the eyelid
Sponges are good for:
blending foundation, concealer and powder
Cool colors have a _____ undertone.
blue
For a special occasion, most clients prefer:
brighter or darker colors
When applying eyelashes, first:
brush the eyelashes to ensure they are clean and free of foreign matter
Primary colors:
can not be obtained from a mixture of colors
Black and white:
combine well with all colors
Contrasting colors that ________ the eye color can enhance the eyes.
complement
You should apply this makeup product first:
concealer
The primary purpose of eye shadow is to:
contour and accentuate the eyes
Thicker foundation that gives heavier coverage is a(n):
cream foundation
Makeup for the cheeks is available in:
cream; liquid; pressed (dry) loose
When you match eye shadow color to eye color, what does it do?
creates a flat field of color
Dark colors appear most subtle on:
dark skin tones
Tinting the lashes and brows involves:
darkening the lashes and brows
What is the purpose of a firm eye shadow brush?
deposits dense color on the eyelids
When determining the perfect foundation, you should first:
determine if your clients has light, medium or dark skin level
Important question(s) to ask clients prior to makeup application include:
do you ear contacts?, do you have allergies?, how much makeup do you normally wear?
What should you do to make large lips appear smaller?
draw a thin line just inside the natural lip line, using a soft flat color
The primary goal of makeup is:
enhance the natural beauty of the client
What do you mix to form tertiary colors?
equal amounts of a secondary color and its neighboring primary color
A neutral skin tone contains:
equal amounts of warm and cool
A(n) ______ is created by foundation.
even canvas
You can make small eyes appear larger by:
extending the eye shadow slightly beyond the eyes toward the temples
Band lashes are:
eyelashes on a strip
Makeup airbrushing includes:
face, nail and body art
Water, stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, mineral oil, propylene glycol, lanolin derivatives and insoluble pigments are commonly included in which type of makeup?
foundation
The eyebrows ______ the eyes.
frame
To clean your makeup brushes, you should use:
gentle shampoo
Heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes is called:
greasepaint
Which of these is considered a cool color?
green
What is an eye shadow called when it is lighter than the client's skin tone?
highlighter
The advantage of airbrush makeup includes:
hygienic, long-lasting and rub and water resistant; more efficient and faster to apply; lightweight, natural and flawless looking
What are lash extensions?
individual lashes that are applied one by one to the client's natural lashes
Natural colorant(s) used in lipsticks include:
ionic oxides, annatto and mica
When tinting the lower lashes, applying cream and a pad under the eye is important for this reason:
it prevents tint from bleeding onto the skin
The client's skin should not be gently lifted or manipulated during the makeup application because:
it will change the look when you let go of the skin
Which of the following should you determine during a makeup consultation?
lifestyle and preference; hair and eye color; natural skin tone and face shape
The natural color of the iris appear(s) _____ when you use a darker color.
lighter
Where should clients look while you are applying mascara?
look at a fixed point
Over-tweezing the brows can:
make the brows look protruding; make the face look puffy; create a surprised look
What should makeup do for your client?
maximize good features and minimize less attractive features
Creating the ideal eyebrow shape involves:
measuring the inner corner of the eye upward; measuring from the outer corner of the nose to the outer corner of the eye; measuring from the outer circle of the iris of the eye upward while the client is looking straight ahead
Dry skin is best suited for which formulation?
oil-based
The two basic types of foundation are:
oil-based and water-based
Place an eyelash strip:
on the lash line
When the face is widest at the temple and forehead, tapering down to the chin, it is a(n) ______ shape.
oval
Permanent cosmetics tattooing is also called:
permanent makeup
You can visually correct a wide nose by:
placing a darker shade of foundation on both sides of the nose and a lighter shade on the center of the nose
What is the purpose of using a lip pencil?
prevents feathering, ensures proper shape and adds definition
When choosing a makeup line, which of the following is most important?
quality
What is the complementary color for green eyes?
red
Purple is not a good color choice for:
reddish skin tones
What is the first thing you should do when correcting or shaping an eyebrow
remove all unnecessary hairs
When you are preparing to apply eye shadow, you should:
remove the eye color with a spatula
Pink tones are not flattering on this skin color:
ruddy
Disinfecting a makeup pencil involves:
sharpening the pencil with a clean sharpener, spraying with disinfectant and then wiping with a clean tissue
When applying blush, the color:
should not be closer than two fingers away from the nose
You must perform your makeup application in a:
spacious area that reflects the quality of your makeup line; neat and organized area; front area of the salon
Remove concealer out of its container with (a):
spatula
Who performs permanent makeup services?
tattoo artists, aestheticians and medical technicians
When a client has close-set eyes:
they are closer together than the length of one eye
What mineral/sunscreen ingredient is commonly used in mineral makeup products?
titanium dioxide
When applying mascara, you should:
use a disposable wand
What is the best way to remove artificial eyelashes?
use pads saturated with a special solution
A receding chin can be made to look more prominent by:
using a lighter foundation on the chin
During your makeup consultation, you should:
visually assess the client's personal style and determine her skin type
Before applying makeup you should:
wash your hands
What is the first step of the clean-up and sanitation process?
washing your hands
What are paraffin, beeswax, carnauba and candelilla
waxes that are commonly used in lipsticks
Brow tinting is recommended for clients:
with enough eyebrow hair to darken
