Cosmetology - Restorative Art

Oramental cosmetology

(Beyond the natural skin coloring) applied to the cosmetic embellishment of women (of any age) who wore cosmetics.

Cosmetics are applied to the VISIBLE parts of the deceased to acheive the following results:

1. Replace the coloring lost in death, illness or embalming 2. Compensate for the absorptive effect of funeral illumination. 3. Present a well-groomed appearance consistent with the best features of the deceased. 4. Psychology ease the grief of the bereaved family by creating a memory picture of peaceful rest, free of pain. 5. Accent or de-emphasize parts of the face or features. 6. Conceal discolorations. 7. Match wax with the color of the complexion.

External

Achieved by a surface application of the cosmetic by hand, brush, sponge, pad or spray.

Internal

Achieved by arterially injecting a staining dye with embalming chemical.

Corrective cosmetizing:

Adjust to lighting where the deceased will be shown.

Semi-Opaque

Appear dense in their container and are capable of hiding faint blemishes.

Highlighting and Shadowing with cosmetics:

Apply lightest color over the entire face 1st Then highlight high areas of the face with red tones and shadow low areas with brown.

Cosmetic application at hair regions:

Apply the cosmetic away from the hair, then use a brush to blend it toward the hairline. Clean hair with dry-wash shampoo and a cue-tip, or sue a sharp pencil to separate hairs and clean them.

Young Adults

Area of red is on the upper part of the cheekbone, where the surface recedes inward toward the lower eyelid.

Effect on density in the application of cosmetics:

As the density of cosmetic is increased, the colorant appears more vivid and changes its value. If a spatula is used to apply cosmetic, it may be too thick. It must be thick enough to cover discolorations, however the thinner the better. Too thick and cosmetic dries and cracks.

Deviations

Bronze: Addison's disease, Hodgkin's disease, TB, uremic poisoning. Purple: Post-mortem stain, contusions. Yellow: Jaundice. Green: Putrefaction or an overly strong injection of embalming fluid. Gray: Gangrene, putrefaction or and overly strong injection of embalming fluid. Yellow-brown: Extreme dehydration

Cautions of powder:

Caking in corners of the eyes, mouth, nose or ears.

Variegated

Changing in color; diversified with different colors. Natural irregularity.

Black (dark)

Employed to capture the low range of complexion coloring. It supplies the dark tones of the skin and darkens depressions (especially in the eyes).

Yellow

Employed to create the sallow component of the skin, to stimulate the translucent appearance of the skin on aged persons and mix with red for lips of a fair-skin female in an ornamental makeup.

White

Employed to raise the value (lighten) the applied complexion coloring and /or premix with the applied complexion colorant to highlight a prominence. Must be added to the array of cosmetic pigment colors that are counterparts of the pigments of the skin. Reduces the brilliance of yellow, red and brown pigments and also compensates for the diffused appearance of the skin pigments being refracted through the epidermis.

Red

Employed to serve alone as a complexion colorant (plus powder), to heighten the complexion of a ruddy or florid person, to reproduce the warm-color (rouge) areas, and to create minor shadow or receding surfaces.

Methods of application - external completion compounds:

Hand: Or finger Brush Spray: Atomizer or airbrush Sponge Puff/Pad

Transparent

Having the property of transmitting rays of light through its substance so that bodies situated beyond or behind can be distinctly seen.

Color and shaping of lips:

If they have no lips, operator may have to pain them on. Use lip rouge, not tint. Can make lips thinner, thicker, wider or narrower.

Eye shadow

Inner canthus of eye (use brown).

Coloring Methods

Internal External

Warm color areas

Lips, ears, nose, cheeks, chin, forehead. Applies to both males and females.

Types of External Coloring Media

Liquid Cosmetics Cream Cosmetics Powder Cosmetics

Effect on funeral lighting on completed cosmetics:

Moving from florescent to incandescent light will change the appearance of the deceased. Use indirect, filtered light in chapel or parlor.

Opaque

Not transparent or translucent; not allowing light to pass through a concealing cosmetic. Employed to conceal discolorations. May create artificial appearance. Base or foundation. Covers discolorations.

Adolescents

Occupies a triangular space slightly lateral to that of a child. Located a short distance below the eyelids and extends as far as the "middle" of the cheekbone.

Black (dark) Yellow Red White

Pigment cosmetics necessary to match the skin for all races of mankind

Types of powder:

Pigmented or non-pigmented (white). All powders have a tendency to dry.

Children

Pink of the cheeks is located chiefly on the upper part of the front plane of the face; very little, if any, is located on the side of the cheek.

Aged adults

Red drops to the lower part of the cheeks and occupies an almost triangular space above the jaw line.

Middle aged adults

Red on the cheek drop to almost the middle of the cheeks. Only the faintest tinge of red should be applied.

Hemoglobin (Oxyhemoglobin)

Red oxygenated and non-oxygenated blood of the arteries and veins that influences the color of the skin by way of its presence in the superficial capillaries.

Effect of powder:

Removes the high shine on face.

Applications of powder:

Spray on with an atomizer or apply with a brush.

Melanin

The determinative pigment of all races; the color ranges from tan to brown, too black-brown. True albinos do not have melanin in their skin.

Pigments of the skin

The non-technical description of the skin color for Caucasian and light Negro people is "straw color (faint yellowish tinge) with a pink overtone."

Cosmetoogy

The study of the materials and techniques of applying colorants to simulate the natural appearance of the deceased for viewing in the funeral setting.

Cream Cosmetics

Those that are semi-solid. Include pigments supplied in ointments, sticks, pastes, mucilage's, hydrocarbons, or soaps; they have a vehicle of oil, grease, or glycerin that does not evaporate.

Powder Cosmetics

Those that are solid and composed of extremely fine particles that may be loose or compressed. Usually ground (milled) with talcum, chalk, zinc, oxide, or titanium dioxide.

Liquid Cosmetics

Those that flow and are not solid. Include solutions, lotions, paints, colloids, or suspensions. Many have evaporating vehicles.

Types of External Colors

Transparent Semi-Opaque Opaque

Complexions

Types: Classified as light, medium and dark. Variations: Red (ruddy), Brown (Swarthy or dusky), and Yellow (sallow). Deviations: Abnormal skin colorings that mar the countenance. Pathological conditions.

Treatment of small discolorations:

Use covering creams. Just apply to the area of the discolorations; it will blend in with the rest of the face. If the discoloration is a natural part of the face (e.g. beard shadow, freckles, moles or birthmarks), replace them with cosmetics.

Pigments

Varies person to person. Those with fair skin have very little.

Infants

Very pale. Softly flood the entire cheeks and chin in an even coloring.

Mixing Techniques

Warm cosmetic by mixing in palm of hand with a finger. Use a clean spatula to remove cosmetic from the jar.

Carotene

Yellow pigment of the kin. Similar to that found in adipose (fatty) tissue.

The goal of post-mortem cosmetology

is the achievement of a natural, non-cosmetic effect, simulating the appearance of color coming from within the skin.