Hair Coloring ♡

cortex

- soft - 2nd layer of the hair

medulla

-deepest layer of the hair shaft -soft cells

Cuticle part of the hair shaft

-hard -protects -covering

Lighter is divided into two basic categories:

1. on the scalp lightener 2. off the scalp lightener

natural pH level ranges from

4.5-5.5

haircolor series example

5R

Physical change

A change of matter from one form to another without a change in chemical properties. TEMPORARY

Solvent

A liquid substance capable of dissolving other substances

Suspension

A mixture in which particles can be seen and easily separated by settling or filtration

solutions

A mixture where substances are distributed evenly. Has a solvent & solute.

complementary colors

A primary and secondary color positioned directly opposite each other on the color wheel.

pure substances

A sample of matter, either a single element or a single compound, that has definite chemical and physical properties

single process hair color

A single application of hair color to either lighten the natural hair color or to deposit hair color to the hair strand

Ammonia

A small, very toxic molecule (NH3) produced by nitrogen fixation or as a metabolic waste product of protein and nucleic acid metabolism. - swells the cuticle so the product can be inside

The law of color

A system that provides the understanding of color relationships

Compound molecules (compounds)

Are a chemical combination of two or more atoms from different elements

Oxidation-reduction aka redox

Chemical reaction in which the oxidizing agent is reduced and the reducing agent is oxidized

Physical mixture

Combination of two or more substances united physically, not chemically, without a fixed composition and in any proportions.

Oxidative haircolor

Creates a chemical change in the hair providing long lasting results

the level system

Determines the lightness or darkness of colors. 1-10... 1 being black, 5 light brown, 10 lightest blond

Pre-lightening

Diffusing or lifting the natural hair color to achieve the desired level

Virgin hair

Natural hair, which has not received any chemical alteration.

Decolorization

Occurs when natural hair color or artificial haircolor is diffused from the hair

combusion

Rapid oxidation of a substance, accompanied by the production of heat and light.

Aniline derivatives

Small compounds, also known as uncolored dye precursors, found in permanent hair color

Alkanolamines

Substances used to neutralize acids or raise the pH of many hair products - raises the pH

Non-Oxidative Haircolor

Temporary colors; no chemical mixing or reaction takes place to produce these colors on the hair

Oxidation

The chemical reaction that occurs when oxygen is released from a substance. LONG-LASTING

level

The unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color.

Line of Demarcation

Visible line separating colored hair from new growth.

Double Process Haircolor

a TWO-step technique involving pre-lightening of the hair, followed by application of toner to achieve desired hair color

hair color removers aka dye solvents

a solution or chemical used to remove oxidative hair color from the hair.

Monochromatic colors

all the hues (tints and shades) of a single color

Emulsion

any mixture of two or more immiscible liquids in which one liquid is dispersed in the other

neutral colors

black, white, gray

heathy hair has...

both acidic and alkaline amino groups in its protein chains

Non-Oxidative Haircolor Type - temporary haircolor

coats the hair surface covering the cuticle layer.

analogous colors

colors that are next to each other on the color wheel

pigment

gives color its color

volume

level of concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide.

Lightener AKA: Bleach or Decolorizers

lightens the hair permanently by diffusing, dissolving or decolorizing the natural or artificial pigment in the cortical layer.

Oxidative Haircolor Type - demi-permanent haircolor

mixed with a low volume developer - aka Long lasting semi-permanent

Molecule

one or more atoms combine and retain their chemical and physical properties to form MATTER.

Developer AKA: Catalyst or Hydrogen Peroxide

oxidizing agent that when mixed with haircolor or lightener creates oxidation-reduction

Oxidative Haircolor Type - Permanent Haircolor

penetrates into the cuticle and cortex layer of the hair shaft - available in many form: gas, cream, liquid

Non-Oxidative Haircolor Type - semi-permanent

penetrates the cuticle layer of the hair shaft - gradually fades - can be refreshed

Non-Professional Haircolor - Metallic Dye aka Gradual Dye

products that contain metals that produce various colors. The type of metallic salts in the hair color formula determines the hair color result. - copper - lead acetate - silver nitrate - iron salts - nickel

Toner

semi-permanent, permanent, or demi-permanent haircolor product used on pre-lightened hair to neutralize unwanted pigment - cover overlay

intensity

strength of colors appearance

tone (hue)

the balance of color- warm, cool or neutral

Volume

the level of concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide.

Tint Back AKA: Reverse Haircolor

the process of returning your guest's hair color to their natural state or desired level that is darker than the existing hair color.

overlapping

the visible line resulting from improper application from hair color and/or lightening products spreading onto previously hair colored/lightened hair

The color wheel

tool for the law of color to visually show how all colors are created.

Non-Professional Haircolor - Natural Hair Dye aka Vegetable Hair Dye (henna)

vegetable-based product that produces a brown to red-orange color in the hair. - The dye powder is combined with an acidic product such as lemon juice, orange juice or grapefruit juice.