history of costume exam 2
Cape with slits for arms
Pelisse
- The wide garments worn by men at the court of Louis XIV that looked like skirts were called: - Petticoat breeches - Sherryvallies - Rhinegraves - A and C
Petticoat breeches and rhinegraves
Pomade
(made with apples or wheat paste)
Muslin (usually white) - resembles chemise undergarment • Soft-looking - Forerunner of early 19th c "Empire"waist gowns
Robe en chemise
Pastel colors, especially for women
Rococo
Trade with China and India - Cotton—lighter/pastel colors - Floral motifs • Industrial Revolution technology - Acceleration of fashion change
Rococo— Influences on Costume
Segmentae
Segmentae
- Which of the following were NOT elements of men's costume during the 16th century in Northern Europe? - Pecadils - Peascod belly - Farthingales - Culots
Farthingales
Two types - A la Francaise • Open pleats - A la Anglaise • Pleats stitched down
Watteau gowns
Milkmaid style includes
dress worn "a la polonaise" (puffed up in back)
English Civil War - Cavaliers (Royalists) - Roundheads (Puritans) • Split in ideology AND fashion
early baroque
Female beauty ideal—Virgin Mary • Plucked hairline • Silhouette stresses upper torso - "Pregnant stance"
early rennaissance
For the entire 18th century, children were dressed as miniature adults. There was no difference between adult and children's styles.
false
Middle class begins - Merchants and craftsmen • New sumptuary laws - New group has money - Want luxury goods - Effort to prohibit merchants
gothic
"A la Hedgehog" was a type of:
hairstyle
A la Francaise
Open pleats
- If an artist of the 15th century depicted a woman in a close-fitting gown, and over this a sideless surcote with a stiffened panel in the front that was decorated with a row of brooches, a contemporary viewer would know at once that this woman was: - An imaginary person - From Italy - A French queen or princess - A widow
- A French queen or princess
- Which of the following would have been working class clothing during the 18th century? - Short gowns - Smocks - Wigs - A and B only
- A and B only
- Examples of Asian and Middle Eastern influences on styles in costume during the 18th century would include: - Some of the prints and designs in textiles - Men's dressing gown styles - Mantua-style gowns for women - All of the above
- All of the above
- Long pointed shoes that developed in the 12th century were called:- Poulaines - Krakowes - Pulley-toes - All of the above
- All of the above
- The pourpoint: - Originated as military dress - Had a padded front and attached to hose with strings - Was made either with or without sleeves - All of the above
- All of the above
Which of the following statements best describes the relationship between the Byzantine Empire and Europe between AD 330 and the 10th century? - European styles influenced Byzantine styles - Byzantine styles influenced European styles - The styles were completely unrelated - A and B only
- Byzantine styles influenced European styles
The costume of the Byzantine Empire had which of these characteristics? - Extensively used Egyptian decorative motifs - Combined elements of costume from Asia with Roman dress - Influenced the dress of upper class Romans in the 2nd century - All of the above
- Combined elements of costume from Asia with Roman dress
Hosa are: - Cut on the bias - Attached to a belt or waistband - A sock and shoe combination - A and B only
- Cut on the bias - Attached to a belt or waistband
. Sleeves on 18th century gowns ended below the elbow with one or more ruffles called: - Shepherdess cuffs - Eschelles - Engageants - Hedgehogs
- Engageants
- Ribbons used to decorate the fronts of bodices were called: - Chapeau bras - Eschelles - Plastics - Pet-en-lair
- Eschelles
Cotton was the fabric most used by poor people during the Middle Ages. - True - False
- False
This man's overgarment, a huge robe, is called a ________. - Doublet - Cotehardie - Houpplande - Chaparone
- Houpplande
6. The lower prices and increases in availability of cotton fabrics in the 1800s were a result of: - Increased demand for cotton fabrics - Increased planting and harvesting of cotton in Europe - Improvements in the technology for spinning cotton yarns - Removal of taxes on cotton imports
- Improvements in the technology for spinning cotton yarns
The fashion for puffed and slashed decoration of costume of men and women entered Italian Renaissance costume: - In the 16th century - Only in Venice - In the 15th century - Only in Florence
- In the 16th century
- Which of the following descriptions most accurately reflects the overall character of women's clothing during the Italian Renaissance of the 15th century? - Clothing placed a great deal of emphasis on body curves, fitting closely through the torso and flaring out widely at the skirt hem - Lavish use of opulent fabrics gave garments of relatively straight cut a splendid appearance and rich decorative effects were achieved by carefully manipulating layers of garments - Garments were essentially draped, being based on the styles of classical antiquity, and relied on soft, flowing textiles very much like those of Greek and Roman women - Bodices had a deep, V-shaped neckline, filled in by a modesty piece, with wide revers on either side of the neck, a wide belt, and long, full, flowing skirt
- Lavish use of opulent fabrics gave garments of relatively straight cut a splendid appearance and rich decorative effects were achieved by carefully manipulating layers of garments
- The political preferences of the two factions in the English Civil War of the 1600s were reflected in their dress, the differences being: - The followers of Oliver Cromwell dressed in elaborate fabrics, lavishly trimmed in lace, wore long, curling hair, and hats with large brims and feather trim, while the followers of Charles I wore simple unadorned clothing in somber colors - The followers of Charles I dressed in elaborate fabrics, lavishly trimmed in lace, wore long, curling hair, and hats with large brims and feather trim, while the followers of Oliver Cromwell wore simple unadorned clothing in somber colors - The followers of Charles I and those of Oliver Cromwell dressed in a similar fashion - The followers of Charles I wore clothing similar to that worn at the court of Queen Elizabeth I
- The followers of Charles I dressed in elaborate fabrics, lavishly trimmed in lace, wore long, curling hair, and hats with large brims and feather trim, while the followers of Oliver Cromwell wore simple unadorned clothing in somber colors
How were married and older women distinguished from unmarried younger women in the Middle Ages? - Unmarried women wore their hair loose and uncovered - Married women wore their hair loose and uncovered - Married women wore both an over and under-tunic - Unmarried women wore both an over and under-tunic
- Unmarried women wore their hair loose and uncovered
Sword belt
Baldrick
Influence from India - Painted/printed textiles
Banyan
Worn with funnel boots Folded over Showed lace
Boot hose
Change in view of ideal beauty - From male to female
Cult of Chivalry
Early Baroque— Men
Doublet with peplum
Gown with ¾ sleevesWrist and forearm exposed
Early Baroque—Women
Few new ideas—Knowledge - Monasteries - Illuminated manuscripts
Early Western Europe 476-1100 AD
The Robe en Chemise, made of sheer cotton, is the forerunner of the: - Empire dresses - Polanaise - Kirtle - Bustle
Empire dresses'
lighter colors - Cotton
English Country Dress
Fashion centered in Paris from Early Baroque to contemporary times Defeat of Spanish Armada Spanish fashion stands still farthingale continues
France and Spain
Crusades start culture contact - Biggest influence on costume in Europe
Gothic 1100-1400 AD
In Early Western Europe, we identify women by the _____ and men by the _______. - Tunics; cloaks - Headwear; legwear - Braids; beards - Tunicas; tunics
Headwear; legwear
• Embroidery Whitework, blackwork, redwork, cutwork
Italian Renaissance 1400-1600
Manteau/Mantua • Sleeved bodice with overskirt attached • Fabric pulled to back - Drawn back like curtains • Typical of Late Baroque
Late Baroque
Elimination of doublet - Beginning of modern dress
Late Baroque—Men
Wheel Farthingale
Metal support • Underskirt or slip
- Interest in antiquity and use of cottonIndustrial Revolution • Leads to acceleration of fashion change
Neoclassicism 1760-1789
Two styles for upper class - Court dress and "Milk maid"
Neoclassicism Women
• Egyptians used it • Revival comes along with lace
Starch (for ruffs)
Large, rectangular embroidered patches with biblical themes were called: - Clavi - Segmentae - Tablion - Stole
Tablion
- Which of the following garments were worn during the reign of Queen Elizabeth? - Dresses with enormous skirts worn over a wheel-shaped device - Sheer, gauze-like veils worn cape-like over the shoulders, with a high, standing collar behind the head - A silhouette that had narrowed at the shoulders, and increased in width in the hip area, often worn with a ruff at the neck and high-heeled shoes - All of the above
all of the above
2. The frock coat was: - Worn instead of the coat in informal situations - Inspired by the English Country Look - Now an accepted option to coat - All of the above
all of the above
A Bliaut: - Was worn by noble women - Had a fitted torso and puddled hem - Showed a woman's family wealth - All of the above
all of the above
Starch was used: - First in Ancient Egypt - To maintain shape on collars and ruffs - In Europe beginning in the Renaissance - All of the above
all of the above
When bias cut leg pieces were merged into one garment (tights) a pouch was added, called the: - Codpiece - Flea cravat - Chopine - Point
codpiece
Huge paniers - Widest in 1740s in England
court dress
• New cotton textiles from India
baroque
All trimming & edging was Cutwork, drawnwork, pulled thread embroidery • Limited to geometric designs
before lace
•Extant pieces from Egypt •Revived in Renaissance
knitting
Free-form luxury fabric —Indication of wealthEnglish and French smuggle it - From Belgium
lace
Taught to girls as young as 5 years old- In damp basements with poor lighting
lacemakers
- Closer fitting coat - Shorter waistcoat - Breeches -tricorne hat -solitaire
modern man look
. In this type of lace, threads are wrapped and bundled with the buttonhole stitch. - Bobbin lace - Cutwork lace - Needle lace - Eyelet lace
needle lace
"Baskets" tied around the waist to make skirts stick out at hips are called: - Farthingale - Bum roll - Paniers - Hipsters
paniers
Skirt puffed up with loops and strings underneath
polonaise
2. The _______ is also called a "Puritan" collar.
rabat
2 Centers of Fashion 1425-85 Trade, mercantilism, $, power 1. flanders • 2. Florence
rennaissance
• Softer floral motifs • Sheer cotton from India - becomes symbol of luxury
rococo women
crespinette
sideless gown
Triangular shaped bodice piece • Sewn onto front of gown
stomacher
- The slashed decorations with contrasting fabric linings underneath are supposed to have originated: - In Italy - In Spain - With the Swiss Army - In the English court with Henry the VIII
the swiss army
- Clothing for men and women was generally made by male professional tailors until after the 1700s, at which time women "tailors" or professional dressmakers were able to make clothing for women but not for men. - True - False
true
- Intermarriage among members of royal families from different parts of Europe helped to spread fashions from one region to another. - True - False
true
- Until they reached the age of four or five, boys of the 15th century were dressed the same way as girls. - True - False
true
5. The widest and most extreme paniers were worn for Court Dress in England.
true
During the 14th century what had been called a cote in women's dress was called a gown. - True - False
true
Fashion was especially important at the court of Louis XIV of France because the king wanted to keep his courtiers occupied with fashion and etiquette so that they would have neither the time nor the money to plot against him.
true
The length of these very pointed shoes, known as Poulaine or Krackowe were regulated by sumptuary law. - True - False
true
Fashion illustrations printed - 1580 earliest (Italian Renaissance)
ventian women
A la Anglaise
• Pleats stitched down
