Module 12

What happens to the wave height and velocity as a wave approaches the shore and transitions from a deep-water wave to a shallow water wave? Wave height increases and velocity decreases Wave height increases and velocity increases Wave height decreases and velocity increases Wave height decreases and velocity decreases

Wave height increases and velocity decreases

In the figure below, which letters represent the wave height and wavelength?

B=height E=wavelength

Which the correct description of the type of breaking wave that is more common on a beach during the summer months? -Plunging waves that deposit sediment on the beach are most common in summer -Spilling waves that erode the beach are most common in summer -Plunging waves that erode the beach are most common in summer -Spilling waves that deposit sediment on the beach are most common in summer

Spilling waves that deposit sediment on the beach are most common in summer

Which the correct description of the type of breaking wave that is more common on a beach with a gentle offshore slope?

Spilling waves that deposit sediment on the beach most common

Where is the foreshore zone on a beach? -The area between high tide and low tide. -The area seaward of the dune system. -The area between the dune system and the high tide mark. -The shallow water zone below low tide.

The area between high tide and low tide.

Where is the backshore zone on a beach? The area landward of the dunes including the lagoon/intercoastal waterway. The area between the dune system and the high tide mark. The area between high tide and low tide. The area seaward of the dune system.

The area between the dune system and the high tide mark

What is a sea arch? A collection of islands that form a shore parallel chain A sea cave that has eroded all the way through a headland A beach that forms in a bay between two headlands An elongate curving sand bar that extends out into a bay

A sea cave that has eroded all the way through a headland

Which type of coastline and relative change in sea level can be inferred from the image? In the image, the ocean is on the right-hand side and the land is on the left-hand side. {Cheseapeake Bay}

A submergent coastline associated with sea level rise relative to the land surface

A coast that grows seaward as a result of regular sedimentation is a(n) __________ -active continental margin -accretionary coast. -coastal plain. -erosional coast

Accretionary coast

Which coastline is most likely to be an emergent coastline today? -an estuarine margin -a passive margin -an active margin -a delta margin

An active margin

In the figure below, which letters represent the crest and trough? C and D C and B A and B E and D

C and D

True or False: Marine Terraces are found in parts of California where the coastline is submergent.

False

True or False: On Earth today, every coast is experiencing a rise in sea-level.

False

True or False: On Earth today, every coast is experiencing a rise in sea-level. True False

False

What is the predominant direction of longshore transport along the east coast of the US? -From south to north parallel to the shore -From north to south parallel to the shore -From east to west perpendicular to the shore -From west to east perpendicular to the shore

From north to south parallel to the shore

Identify the coastal engineering structure in the photo shown. (best photo i could get--the two darker structures on the right hand side of the photo) Groin Sea wall Breakwater Jetty

Groin

Which of the following is true of beach nourishment as a solution to coastal erosion? -It is a temporary, but inexpensive, solution to coastal erosion. -It is a permanent solution that will protect an erosional beach. -The flux of sediment from beach nourishment will change a beach from erosional to accretionary. -It is costly and may only provide a temporary solution.

It is costly and may only provide a temporary solution

Where in the US would one find an emergent coast? Texas Gulf of Mexico Coast Northern California Coast There are no emergent coasts in the US. Southeast US Atlantic Coast

Northern California Coast

Which the correct description of the type of breaking wave that is more common on a beach during the winter months? Spilling waves that erode the beach are most common in winter Spilling waves that deposit sediment on the beach are most common in winter Plunging waves that erode the beach are most common in winter Plunging waves that deposit sediment on the beach are most common in winter

Plunging waves that erode the beach are most common in winter

which of the following is not a shoreline depositional landform (feature). -sea arch -tombolo -baymouth bar -pocket beach

Sea arch

Which of the following coastal landforms would you be LEAST likely to find in Florida? -Spit -Barrier island -Uplifted reef -Sea stack

Sea stack

What is true of the rate of sea-level rise in Florida compared to the rate of eustatic (global) sea-level rise? Sea-level rise in Florida is the same as the eustatic (global) rate of sea-level rise. sea-level is falling in Florida due to uplift of the carbonate platform. Sea-level rise in Florida is less than the eustatic (global) rate of sea-level rise. Sea-level rise in Florida is greater than the eustatic (global) rate of sea-level rise.

Sea-level rise in Florida is greater than the eustatic (global) rate of sea-level rise.

What will eventually happen to the headlands in the figure below?

They will become a straight line of cliffs as rock is eroded away

What is the direction of longshore transport in the photo shown? (can't find a photo for it. a bunch of groins are sticking out with sand piling up on top of the groins towards the top of the photo) Toward the bottom of the photo Toward the right of the photo Toward the top of the photo Toward the left of the photo

Toward the bottom of the photo

True or False. If sea level remains relatively stable, with time wave refraction and the processes of erosion and deposition will act to straighten the shape of the shoreline.

True

True or False: Seasonally, beaches tend to get narrower and steeper in the winter as higher energy waves store beach sand in offshore sandbars. True False

True

What happens to the wave height and velocity as a wave approaches the shore and transitions from a deep-water wave to a shallow water wave? -Wave height increases and velocity increases -Wave height decreases and velocity increases -Wave height increases and velocity decreases -Wave height decreases and velocity decreases

Wave height increases and velocity decreases

Which kind of damage corresponds to a level-2 storm impact on a barrier island? -Erosive damage is limited to the area seaward of the dune system. -Waves erode the front of the dune system. -Waves overtop the dune system and push it landward. -The storm surge overtops the dune system destroying it.

Waves erode the front of the dune system.

Which kind of damage corresponds to a level-3 storm impact on a barrier island? 1.Erosive damage is limited to the area seaward of the dune system. 2.Waves erode the front of the dune system. 3.Waves overtop the dune system and push it landward. 4.The storm surge overtops the dune system destroying it.

Waves over top the dune system and push it landward

Which type of coastline would most likely contain estuaries or fjords? a divergent coastline an emergent coastline a submergent coastline a subduction coastline

a submergent coastline

About what proportion of the current rate of sea level rise comes from thermal expansion of water in the ocean compared to addition of new water from melting glacial ice?

about 50% is from thermal expansion and 50% from melting glacial ice

Where do most of the barrier islands in North America occur?

along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts

Structures—like jetties, groins, and breakwaters—that are designed to prevent beach erosion __________. must be built in conjunction with beach nourishment are a temporary solution that decreases the rate of beach erosion have the added benefit of allowing organic coasts to develop are permanent solutions that protect erosional beaches

are a temporary solution that decreases the rate of beach erosion

A(n) __________ is a vegetated, flat-lying stretch of coast that floods at high tide, becomes particularly exposed at low tide, and does not feel the impact of strong waves. coastal wetland marine terrace estuary coral reef

coastal wetland

A coastline characterized by steep-sided cliffs and associated with an active margin is likely to be __________. emergent accretionary passive submergent

emergent

A coastline characterized by steep-sided cliffs and associated with an active margin is likely to be __________. accretionary submergent passive emergent

emergent

A coastline characterized by steep-sided cliffs and associated with an active margin is likely to be __________. passive emergent accretionary submergent

emergent

Rip currents _____ the shoreline. -flow directly toward -are not affected by -flow parallel to -flow directly away from

flow directly away from

Longshore currents ________ the shoreline. -flow directly toward -are not affected by -flow directly away from -flow parallel to

flow parallel to

Because of wave refraction, erosion along an irregular coastline is ________. -greatest in bays -even along the length of the coast -greatest along headlands -the same as it would be along a regular coastline

greatest along headlands

What is a correct statement regarding the differences between groins and jetties?

groins are intended to renourish beaches, while jetties are intended to keep inlets open

Along beaches, groins have _______

increased erosion rates immediately down current from the groin

Barrier islands are constantly moving in the direction of ________. the Coriolis effect the open ocean downwelling the longshore drift

longshore drift

Waves ________. -refract so as to impact the shore nearly perpendicular to the shoreline -reflect directly backward from the angle at which they approach the shoreline -refract so as to impact the shore in a nearly parallel manner -are reflected off the shoreline but never refract

refract so as to impact the shore in a nearly parallel manner

Identify the feature indicated by the arrows in the image shown headlands sea cliffs sea arches sea stacks

sea stacks

Which of the following features is characteristic of a rocky coast?

sea stacks

Which of the following is the BEST example of an organic coast?

shallow coral reef

Which of the following features is formed by longshore transport of sediments? estuary sea stack tombolo spit

spit

The Florida coast is an example of a(n):______

submergent coast

Notice the newly constructed seawall in the illustration below. The most likely outcome of its construction is that the seawall will __________. Newly constructed seawall illustration -permanently protect the home from beach erosion -increase sediment production on the beach, decreasing the rate of erosion -temporarily protect the cliff from beach erosion -deter biological activity that might compromise the integrity of the cliff

temporarily protect the cliff from beach erosion

The barrier island system along the eastern coast of the United States (and in FL) is thought to have begun from: -thousands of years ago during a period of rising sea level -millions of years ago during a period of rising sea level -millions of years ago during a period of falling sea level -thousands of years ago during a period of falling sea level

thousands of years ago during a period of rising sea level

Which of the following does NOT determine the height, length, and period of oceanic surface waves? - wind speed - wind duration - tidal forces - fetch

tidal forces

Identify the feature indicated by the arrow in the image shown. (arrow pointing at sandy bar connecting sea stack to shore) tombolo pocket beach bay mouth bar sea arch

tombolo

True or False: Seasonally, beaches tend to get narrower and steeper in the winter as higher energy waves store beach sand in offshore sandbars.

true

If a beach is in an east-west orientation and the waves are approaching the shore from the southeast, in which direction will the longshore drift be? southern northern western eastern

western

At what water depth do waves begin to interact with the sea floor? when the water depth is equal to twice the wavelength when the water depth is equal to one-half the wavelength when the water depth is equal to one-half the wave height when the water depth is equal to twice the wave height

when the water depth is equal to one-half the wavelength