Professional Cooking - Chapter 21 "Salad Dressings and Salads" Part 2

Mizuna (Japanese Mustard Greens)

-A dark green leaf with jagged edges resembling dandelion leaves. -It has a mild, mustardy taste.

Mâche (Also called Corn Salad, Lamb's Lettuce, Lamb's Tongue, and Field Salad))

-A small, very tender green with spoon-shaped leaves. -It has a delicate, nutty flavor.

Escarole (or Broad-Leaf Endive)

-Broad, thick leaves in bunches rather than heads. -Texture is coarse and slightly tough, and flavor is somewhat bitter. -Mix with sweeter greens to vary flavor and texture, but do not use alone because of the bitterness. -Escarole is frequently braised with olive oil and garlic and served as a vegetable in Italian cuisine.

Figs

-Calimyrna figs, also called Smyrna figs, are light green. -Black Mission figs and Black Spanish figs (also called Brown Turkey) are purple. -All figs are sweet when ripe, and soft and delicate in texture. -They should be plump and soft, without spoilage or sour odor. -Keep refrigerated (although firm, unripe figs can be left at room temperature, spread in one layer, for a few days to ripen slightly). -Rinse and drain, handling carefully. -Trim off hard stem ends. Percentage yield: 95% (80-85% if peeled)

Chinese Cabbage

-Elongated, light green heads with broad, white center ribs. -Available in two forms: narrow, elongated head (often called celery cabbage) and thicker, blunt head (called napa cabbage). -Tender but crisp, with a mild cabbage flavor. -Adds excellent flavor to mixed green salads. -Also used extensively in Chinese cooking.

Romaine (or Cos) Lettuce

-Elongated, loosely packed head with dark green, coarse leaves. -Crisp texture, with full, sweet flavor. -Keeps well and is easy to handle. -Essential for Caesar salad. -For elegant service, the center rib is often removed.

Loose-Leaf Lettuce

-Forms bunches rather than heads. -Soft, fragile leaves with curly edges. -May be all green or with shades of red. -Wilts easily and does not keep well, but is inexpensive and gives flavor, variety, and interest to mixed green salads.

Frisée

-Frisée is the same plant as curly endive or chicory, but it is grown in a way that makes it more tender and less bitter. -Except for the outer layer, the leaves are pale yellow, slender, and feathery, with a distinct but mild taste.

Honeydew

-Good aroma, slightly soft, heavy, creamy white to yellowish rind, not too green. -Large sizes have best quality. Percentage yield: 50-55%

Kiwi Fruit

-Kiwis are firm when unripe; they become slightly softer when ripe but do not change color significantly. -Common kiwis have green flesh; golden kiwis are also available. -Allow them to ripen at room temperature. -Avoid fruits with bruises or soft spots. -Pare thin outer skin. -Cut crosswise into slices. Percentage yield: 80%

Grapes

-Look for firm, ripe, good-colored fruits in full bunches. -Grapes should be firmly attached to stems and should not fall off when shaken. -Watch for rotting or shriveling at stem ends. -Refrigerate in original container. -Wash and drain. -Except for seedless varieties, cut in half and remove seeds with the point of a paring knife. Percentage yield: 90%

Lemons and Limes

-Look for firm, smooth skins. -Colors may vary: Limes may be yellow, and lemons may have green on the skin. -Cut in wedges, slices, or other shapes for garnish, or cut in half crosswise for juicing. -Wash first if using the zest. Percentage yield: 40-45% (juiced)

Cherries

-Look for plump, firm, sweet, juicy cherries. -Bing or black cherries should be uniformly dark to almost black. -Refrigerate in original container until ready to use. -Just before use, remove stems and sort out damaged fruit. -Rinse and drain well. -Pit with a special pitting tool. Percentage yield: 82% (pitted)

Bananas

-Look for plump, smooth bananas without bruises or spoilage. -All bananas are picked green, so you don't need to avoid unripe fruit. -Avoid overripe fruit, however. -Ripen at room temperature for three to five days; fully ripe fruit is all yellow with small brown flecks and no green. -Do not refrigerate, or fruit will discolor. -Peel and dip in fruit juice to prevent browning. Percentage yield: 70%

Apples

-Mature apples have a fruity aroma, brown seeds, and a slightly softer texture than unripe fruit. -Overripe or old apples are soft and sometimes shriveled. -Avoid apples with bruises, blemishes, decay, or mealy texture. -Summer varieties (sold until fall) do not keep well. -Fall and winter varieties keep well and are available for a longer period. -Apples with a good acid content are usually better for cooking than bland eating varieties like Red Delicious. -Granny Smith and Golden Delicious are widely used for cooking. -To prepare, wash; pare if desired. Quarter and remove core, or leave whole and core with a special coring tool. -Use a stainless-steel knife for cutting. -After paring, dip in solution of lemon juice (or other tart fruit juice) or ascorbic acid to prevent browning. Percentage yield: 75%

Mesclun

-Mesclun is a mixture of tender baby lettuces. -It is available as a mixture, but some chefs prefer to buy individual baby lettuces and make their own mixture.

Watercress

-Most commonly used as a garnish, watercress is also excellent in salads. -Small, dark green, oval leaves with a pungent, peppery flavor. -Remove thick stems before adding to salads.

Chicory (or Curly Endive)

-Narrow, curly, twisted leaves with firm texture and bitter flavor. -Outside leaves are dark green; core is yellow or white. -Attractive when mixed with other greens or used as a base or garnish, but may be too bitter to be used alone.

Witloof Chicory (or Belgian Endive)

-Narrow, lightly packed, pointed heads resembling spearheads, 4-6 inches long. -Pale yellow-green to white in color. -Leaves are crisp, with a waxy texture and pleasantly bitter flavor. -Usually expensive. -Often served alone, split in half or into wedges, or separated into leaves, accompanied by a mustard vinaigrette dressing.

Apricots

-Only tree-ripened apricots have sufficient flavor, and they keep for a week or less under refrigeration. -They should be golden yellow, firm, and plump, not mushy. -Avoid fruit that is soft, blemished, or decayed. -Wash, split in half, and remove pit. -Peeling is not necessary for most purposes. Percentage yield: 94%

Papayas

-Papayas are pear-shaped tropical fruits with a mild, sweet flavor and slightly floral aroma. -The flesh is yellow or pinkish, depending on the variety, and the center cavity holds a mass of round, black seeds. -Papayas may weigh from less than 1 pound to several pounds each. -Their skin is green when unripe, becoming yellow as they ripen. -For best quality, select fruits that are firm and symmetrical, without bruises or rotten spots. -Avoid dark green papayas, which may not ripen properly. -Let ripen at room temperature until slightly soft and nearly all yellow, with only a little green. -Wash. Cut in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. -Peel, if desired, or serve like cantaloupe. Percentage yield: 65%

Peaches and Nectarines

-Peaches should be plump and firm, without bruises or blemishes. -Avoid dark green fruits, which are immature and will not ripen well. -Avoid fruits refrigerated before ripening, as they may be mealy. -Select freestone varieties of peaches. -Clingstone varieties require too much labor (they are used primarily for canning). -Let ripen at room temperature, then refrigerate. -Peel peaches by blanching in boiling water 10-20 seconds, until skin slips off easily, and cool in ice water. (Nectarines do not need to be peeled.) -Cut in half, remove pits, and drop into fruit juice, sugar syrup, or ascorbic acid solution to prevent darkening. Percentage yield: 75%

Pears

-Pears should be clean, firm, and bright, with no blemishes or bruises. -Pears for eating raw should be fully ripe and aromatic. -For cooking, they are better if slightly underripe, as fully ripe pears are very soft when cooked. -Wash, pare, cut in halves or quarters, and remove core. -To prevent browning, dip in fruit juice. Percentage yield: 75% (peeled and cored)

Persimmons

-Persimmons are orange-red fruits available in two varieties. 1. Hachiya (the most common), which is shaped somewhat like a large acorn (about 8 oz each). It is extremely tannic when unripe, making it nearly inedible until it ripens to a soft, jellylike mass. Ripe persimmons are sweet, juicy, and mild but rich in flavor. 2. Fuyu, is smaller and more squat in shape. It lacks the tannin content of Hachiya persimmons and can be eaten even when not fully ripe. -Select plump persimmons with good red color and stem cap attached. -Ripen at room temperature until very soft, then refrigerate. -Remove stem cap, cut as desired, and remove seeds, if there are any. Percentage yield: 80%

Pineapples

-Pineapples should be plump and fresh-looking, with an orange-yellow color and abundant fragrance. -Avoid soft spots, bruises, and dark, watery spots. -Store at room temperature for a day or two to allow some tartness to disappear, then refrigerate. -Pineapples may be cut in many ways. For slices, chunks, and dice, cut off top and bottom and pare the rough skin from the sides, using a stainless-steel knife. -Remove all eyes. -Cut into quarters lengthwise and cut out the hard center core. -Slice or cut as desired. Percentage yield: 50%

Plums

-Plums should be plump and firm but not hard, with good color and no blemishes. -Wash, cut in half, and remove pits, or serve whole. Percentage yield: 95% (pitted only)

Pre-cleaned, Pre-cut Salad Greens

-Precut greens are sold in large, sealed plastic bags. -They save labor costs in large operations but are more perishable than unprocessed greens. -Keep refrigerated, and do not open until ready to use. -Unopened bags will keep for two or three days. -Taste before serving to make sure the greens do not have too much antioxidant on them, making them bitter.

Quinces

-Quinces grow in temperate climates and were once very popular in Europe and North America. -Many old, neglected quince trees remain in New England and elsewhere. -The fruit resembles a large, yellow, lumpy pear with a smooth or slightly downy skin. -The raw fruit is never eaten, as it is dry and hard. -When cooked (usually stewed or poached in a sugar syrup), it becomes aromatic, flavorful, and sweet, and the color of the flesh turns slightly pink. -The fruit keeps well. -Select fruit with good color and free of bruises or blemishes. -Cut, pare, and core like apples or pears, then cook. Percentage yield: 75%

Radicchio (ra dik ee oh)

-Red-leafed Italian variety of chicory -Has creamy white ribs or veins and generally comes in small, round heads. -It has a crunchy texture and a slightly bitter flavor. -Radicchio is expensive, but only a leaf or two are needed to add color and flavor to a salad.

Rhubarb

-Rhubarb is a stem, not a fruit, but it is used like a fruit. -Buy firm, crisp, tender rhubarb with thick stalks, not thin and shriveled. -Cut off all traces of leaf, which is poisonous. -Trim root end, if necessary. -Peel with a vegetable peeler if desired, or omit this step if the skin is tender. -Cut into desired lengths. Percentage yield: 85-90% (if purchased without leaves)

Grapefruit

-Select fruit that is heavy for its size and has a firm, smooth skin. -Avoid puffy, soft fruits and those with pointed ends, which have low yield and a lot of rind. -Cut and taste for sweetness. -For sections and slices, peel with a chef's knife, removing all white pith. -Free sections from membrane with a small knife. Percentage yield: 45-50% (flesh without membrane) 40-45% (juiced)

Coconuts

-Shake to hear liquid inside; fruits with no liquid are dried out. -Avoid cracked fruits and fruits with wet eyes. -Pierce eye with ice pick or nail and drain liquid. -Crack with hammer and remove meat from shell (easier if placed in 350°F/175°C oven 10-15 minutes first). -Peel brown skin with paring knife or vegetable peeler. Percentage yield: 50%

Bibb or Limestone Lettuce

-Similar to Boston lettuce, but smaller and more delicate. -A whole head may be only a few inches across. -Color ranges from dark green outside to creamy yellow at the core. -Its tenderness, delicate flavor, and high price make it a luxury in some markets. -The small, whole leaves are often served by themselves, with a light vinaigrette dressing, as an after-dinner salad.

Boston Lettuce

-Small, round head with soft, fragile leaves. -Deep green outside shading to nearly white inside. -The leaves have a rich, mild flavor and delicate, buttery texture. -Bruises easily and does not keep well. -Cup-shaped leaves excellent for salad bases.

Baby Red Oak Leaf

-Small, tender leaves that make up a mesclun mix.

Lola Rossa

-Small, tender leaves that make up a mesclun mix. -A red lettuce with ruffled leaves.

Spinach

-Small, tender spinach leaves are excellent salad greens, either alone or mixed with other greens. -A popular salad is spinach leaves garnished with sliced raw mushrooms and crisp, crumbled bacon. -Spinach must be washed thoroughly, and the coarse stems must be removed.

Cantaloupes

-Smooth scar on stem end, with no trace of stem (called full slip, meaning the melon was picked ripe). -Yellow rind, with little or no green. Heavy, with good aroma. Percentage yield: 50-55%

Sprouts

-Sprouts are young plants that have just emerged from their seeds, before the true leaves develop. - Sprouts from mung beans are commonly used in Chinese cooking. -Alfalfa, daikon radish, and mustard sprouts are often used in delicate salads. -Alfalfa sprouts have a mild flavor, while radish and mustard sprouts have a peppery flavor.

Tatsoi

-Tatsoi is a small, round, dark green leaf. -Its flavor has a pleasant bite similar to that of arugula, watercress, and other members of the mustard family. -It is sometimes included in mesclun mixtures, although it isn't actually a lettuce.

Dandelion Greens

-The familiar lawn ornament is also cultivated for use in the kitchen. -Only young, tender leaves may be used. -Older leaves are coarse and bitter, though cultivated varieties are milder than wild dandelion. -Best in spring.

Iceberg Lettuce

-The most popular salad ingredient. -Firm, compact head with crisp, mild-tasting pale green leaves. -Valuable for its texture because it stays crisp longer than other lettuces. -Can be used alone but is best mixed with more flavorful greens, such as romaine, because it lacks flavor itself. -Keeps well.

Pomegranates

-The pomegranate is a subtropical fruit about the size of a large apple. -It has a dry red skin or shell enclosing a mass of seeds. -Each seed is surrounded by a small sphere of juicy, bright red pulp. -Pomegranates are used mostly for their red, tart-sweet juice. -The seeds, with their surrounding pulp, can also be used as an attractive garnish for desserts and even meat dishes. -Look for heavy fruits without bruises. -When squeezed, they should yield to gentle pressure; if they are too hard, they may be dried out. -To prepare, lightly score the skin without cutting into the seeds and carefully break the fruit into sections. -Separate the seeds from the membranes. -Juicing is difficult. -Some methods crush the seeds and make the juice bitter. -This method makes a better juice: Roll the whole pomegranate on the countertop under the palm of the hand to break the juice sacs. Then pierce a hole in the side and squeeze out the juice. Percentage yield: 55%

Baby Lettuces

-The small, tender leaves that make up a mesclun mix are also available separately. -These include: 1. Baby Bibb (both red and green) 2. Baby Romaine 3. Baby Red Oak Leaf 4. Lola Rossa (a red lettuce with ruffled leaves).

Star Fruit (or Carambola)

-The star fruit is a shiny, yellow, oblong fruit with five ridges running the length of the fruit, so it forms stars when sliced crosswise. -It is fragrant, ranging from tart to sweet, with a crisp texture. -Look for full, firm fruits. Avoid fruits with ribs that have browned and shrunk. -Wash and slice crosswise. Percentage yield: 99%

Guava

-There are many varieties of these small, tropical fruits. -They may be round, oval, or pear-shaped, with aromatic flesh that may be green, pink, yellow, red, or white, sometimes full of seeds and sometimes nearly seedless. -The flavor is complex and ranges from sweet to sour. -Select tender fruits with a full aroma. -Cut in half and scoop out the flesh. -For many uses, the flesh is puréed in a food processor or blender, seeds and all. -Alternatively, cut into dice or other shapes as desired. Percentage yield: 80%

Microgreens

-These are the first true leaves that develop after a seed sprouts. -Tiny herb leaves and tiny leaves from lettuce and other salad greens, younger and smaller than baby lettuces, are used mostly as garnish for other dishes, both hot and cold.

Passion Fruit

-These are tropical fruits about the size of eggs, with a brownish purple skin that wrinkles when ripe. (There is also a yellow-skinned variety.) -They are mostly hollow when ripe, with juice, seeds, and a little flesh inside. -The tart juice has an intense, exotic flavor and aroma greatly prized by pastry chefs. -Select fruits that are large and heavy for their size. -If they are smooth, let ripen at room temperature until the skin is wrinkled. -To use, cut in half, taking care not to lose any juice. -Scrape out the seeds, juice, and pulp. -Seeds can be eaten, so do not discard. -If you need only the juice, it is much more economical to buy the frozen juice, as fresh fruits are expensive. Percentage yield: 40-45%

Kumquats

-These look like tiny, elongated oranges, about the size of a medium olive. -The skin and even the seeds can be eaten. In fact, the skin is sweet, while the flesh and juice are tart. -Avoid soft or shriveled fruit. -Kumquats keep well and are usually in good condition in the market. -Wash, drain well, and cut as desired. Percentage yield: 95-100%

Arugula (Also known as Rugula or Rocket)

-These pungent, distinctively flavored greens are related to mustard and watercress. -They are tender and perishable, and they often are sandy, so they must be washed carefully. -Arugula was once found almost exclusively in Italian restaurants, but it has since become more widely available and popular.

Litches (or Lychees)

-This Chinese fruit is about the size of a walnut or Ping-Pong ball. -Its rough, leathery outer skin, which ranges from reddish to brown, is easily peeled away to reveal aromatic, juicy white flesh that surrounds an inedible pit. -Look for heavy, plump fruit with good color. -Peel, cut in half, and remove the seed. -Percentage yield: 50%

Berries

-This category includes blackberries, blueberries, cranberries, black currants (cassis), red currants, white currants, lingonberries, raspberries, and strawberries. -Berries should be full, plump, and clean, with bright, fully ripe color. -Watch for moldy or spoiled fruits. Wet spots on carton indicate damaged fruit. -Refrigerate in original container until ready to use in order to reduce handling. -Except for cranberries, berries do not keep well. -Sort out spoiled berries and foreign materials. Wash with gentle spray and drain well. -Remove stems from strawberries. -Red currants for garnishing are often left on the stem. -Handle berries carefully to avoid bruising. Percentage yield: 92-95%

Prickly Pears (Cactus Pears)

-This is a barrel-shaped fruit about the size of a large egg. -Its skin color ranges from magenta to greenish red, and it has a bright pinkish red, spongy interior with black seeds. -The pulp is sweet and aromatic, but with a mild flavor. -Good-quality fruits are tender but not mushy, with a good skin color, not faded. -Avoid fruits with rotten spots. -If the fruit is firm, allow to ripen at room temperature, then refrigerate. -As it is the fruit of a cactus, thorns grow on the skin. These are removed before shipping, but small, hard-to-see thorns may remain. -To avoid getting stung, hold the fruit with a fork while you slice off the top and bottom. Still holding it with a fork, pare the sides with a knife and discard the peels without touching them. -Cut or slice the pulp as desired, or force it through a sieve to purée it and remove the seeds. Percentage yield: 70%

Mangoes

-This tropical fruit comes in two main types 1. Oval, with a skin that ranges from green to orange to red. 2. Kidney-shaped, with skin that is more uniformly yellow when ripe. -Mangoes have a thin but tough skin and yellow to yellow-orange flesh that is juicy and aromatic. -Fruit should be plump and firm, with clear color and no blemishes. -Avoid rock-hard fruit, which may not ripen properly. -Let ripen at room temperature until slightly soft. -Peel and cut flesh away from center stone, or cut in half before peeling, working a thin-bladed knife around both sides of the flat stone. Percentage yield: 75%

Oranges, Mandarins, and Tangerines

-To buy high-quality oranges, use the same guidelines as for grapefruit. -Mandarins may feel puffy, but they should be heavy for their size. -Unusual varieties include blood oranges, with dark red flesh and juice and intense flavor, and Seville oranges, with tart rather than sweet flesh. -Seville oranges are prized for making marmalade. -Peel mandarins by hand and separate the sections. -For juicing, cut oranges in half crosswise. -For sections, see Grapefruit. Percentage yield: 60-65% (sections with no membranes) 50% (juiced)

Melons

-To prepare hollow melons, wash, cut in half, and remove seeds and fibers. -Cut into wedges and cut flesh from rind, or cut balls with ball cutter. -For watermelon, wash, cut in half or into pieces, and cut balls with ball cutter, or cut flesh from rind and remove seeds. Percentage yield: Watermelons: 45%; others: 50-55%

Treviso

-Treviso is a red-leafed plant like radicchio, but with elongated leaves somewhat like Belgian endive. -Like radicchio and endive, it belongs to the chicory family and has a slightly bitter flavor.

Watermelon

-Yellow underside, not white. -Firm and symmetrical. -Large sizes have best yield. -Velvety surface, not too shiny. -When cut, look for hard, dark brown seeds and no white heart (hard white streak running through center). Percentage yield: Watermelons: 45%