Waves + tides

what are the distubing and restoring forces of different wave types?

(look in book)

what are the three basic types of tides and descibe them

-Diurnal tides: one high and one low tide every 24 hours -Semidiurnal tides: two high and two low tides every 24 hours of equal magnitude -Mixed tide: two high tides and two low tides every 24 hours of differing magnitude

what is a wave train and how does it behaves

-a group of waves with the same wavelength -leading waves are drained of energy and dissappear, new waves are created at the end of the wave train

the equation that relates wavelength, period, and speed in deep-water waves and how these parameters change over long distances and as deep-water waves move into shallow water

-deep-water equation: depth greater than half the wavelength(d>(L/2)) -as waves move from deep to shallow water, their period (T) stays the same but their speed (c) and wavelength (L), decrease -shallow-water waves (d<(L/20)

what are the three different flow phases of a tide that is within an enclosed area

-flood current: water rushing in -ebb current: water rushing out -slack water: a time of no currents

what are spring and neap tides

-spring tide: the highest and lowest tides, when the sun an moon are in alignment with earth -neap tide:the smallest changes between high and low tide ( the lowest high tide and the highest low tide) when the sun and moon are in a perpendicular to each other

what is dispersion?

-the process of wave separation by size (wavelength)

what are wavelength, height, frequency, and period

-wavelength:distance between two adjacent wave crests -height: crest and trough -frequency: # of wave crests passing point A or point B each second -period: time required for wave crest at point A to reach point B

what are internal waves? Where can you find them?

-waves that form at the boundary between water of different densities

why do waves break and in what conditions this happens

When their height becomes 1/7 of their wavelength (or when the ratio of their height to wavelength is 1/7)

what is an amphridromic point

a point of no tidal motion which a tidal crest rotates around

what is a seiche and what causes it?

a seiche occurs when water sloches back and fourth in a closed basin, like a lake, it occurs dur to changes in atmos. pressure (most common) storm surge or tsunami

What is a standing wave and what causes it?

a standing wave is a wave that osicallates around a single node, the wave has crests and troughs in a fixed position. This occurs when a wave strikes an obstacle directly and the reflected waves interfere w/ the oncoming waves

what is transported by waves

energy

how has tidal friction affected the rotation of the earth over time

it has slowed the rotation of the earth from 22 hours/day to 24 hours/day

what are the smallest and largest waves?

smallest: capillary waves largest: tides

what does the dynamic theory of tides take into account

that tides are waves and so have certain behaviors in shallow water and that continental also have an effect

what does the equilibrium theory of tides assume

the seafloor doesnt influence tides and there are no interfering continents

what is stokes drift

the small net transport of water in the direction of a wave

what is fetch?

the uninterpreted distance over which wind blows

What is a fully-developed sea?

when we observe the maximum wave size possible for the wind speed, duration, and fetch