Apparel Industries Midterm

According to the Fair Fashion in New York City

- 1 in 6people on the planet works in the global fashion supply chain - 3 in every 4 garment workers are women. - Only 2% of workers receive fair wage

Big Changes

- 1800s-ready to wear (industrial revolution era) - Improved Textiles - Post WW2 "new look" by Christain - - Dior - Feminine silhouettes - Technology

Cuban missile crisis/vietnam war/civil rights

- 1960s peasant style, mod fashions, "le smoking", YSL suit - Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Kennedy

Movies/television/Music and glam rock

- 1970 - characterized by a cultural rebellion - New man- made fibers (polyester!)

Microfiber

- A fiber two or three thinner than a human hair and thinner then wool, cotton, flax, or silk fibers - It has a texture similar to silk or cashmere, but is wrinkle-resistant

Woven vs Knit

- A knit fabric is made up of a single yarn, looped continuously to produce a braided look - Multiple yarns comprise a woven fabric, crossing each other at right angles to form the grain

Light

- Affects perception of color - Reflection, absorption- advance, recede

End of the recession 1980s

- American Casual Wear (athleisure) - Decade of designer

4 main classifications of

- Color - Fabrication - Silhouette - Theme

Eco-friendly resources

- Cotton - Soy - Hemp - Bamboo - PET Plastic

Line

- Elements - Space - Line (contour-straight/curve) - Real, suggested - Vertical/horizontal

Elements vs principals

- Elements: line, shape, size, space, color, texture, value - Middle: Composition - Principles: balance, contrast, emphasis, proportion, pattern, gradation

WW2 1939/1941-1945

- Everyone involved in the fight - fashion stalled

Greige (gray) Good

- Fabric that has received no preparation, dyeing, or finishing treatment after having been produced by any textile process

Shape & Form

- Geometric, organic - Form, silhouette - Pattern- random

Fast fashion

- Goods that are made quickly and cheaply

Color

- Hue - Value (darkness/lightness) - Intensity (bright/dull) - Warm vs Cool

3 main types of fiber

- Natural - Regenerated - Synthetic

How do fibers become clothing

- Raw materials are transformed from raw fibers into yarn and thread by spinning the fibers - Threads are joined to form fabric. This is called weaving

Post WW2

- Sense of glamour - Vibrant colors, simple clean silhouette, structured - Television

Fall of Berlin wall/ communism/gulfwar/ the internet- 1990s

- Trade agreements - Global communications - marketing - hip/hop grunge - Madonna

What is design?

- creative problem-solving product resulting from creative problem solving - conscious creation of a visual expirence - applied design; aesthetic function

Wicking

- fabrics that are capable of transporting moisture, have resistance to radiation, corrosive chemicals, and other stresses, and adjust to extreme weather changes - Seen a lot in activewear, athleticwear, and protective clothing

Post WW1

- simplicity - women gained the right to vote - sense of rebelliousness - world's fair - access to the rest of the world - Jazz age - celebrating life

Slow Fashion

- the movement of designing, creating, and buying garments for quality and longevity - It encourages slower production schedules, fair wages, lower carbon footprints, and ideally zero waste

Terrorism/European Union

-Art/culture/celebrity/music/fashions -celebrity influences -supply chain digitized -Individual identity/social identity

The Problem: Overproduction

1. Fashion Industry produces 150 billion garments per year 2. 30% of fashion produced is never sold 3. Nearly three-fifths or 60% of all clothing produced ends up in incinerators or landfills within a year of being made. 4. Every second, the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned.

Solution: Sustanible Jean Technologies- Uniqlo

1. Laser processing and nanobubble ozone washing machines, as well as the expertise of designers to reduce water use by up to 99% 2. The entire line up of UNIQLO jeans will be produced with this technology by 2020.

Problem: Water consumption + pollution

1. Over-consumption of water 2. More than 1.2 billion people lack access to clean drinking water 3. The fashion industry consumes 79 billion cubic meters of water —enough to fill 32 million Olympic-size swimming pools

the 3 pillars of sustainability

1. People 2. Planet 3. Profits

6 stages of product development

1. Planning a line 2. Creating the design concept 3. Developing the designs 4. Planning production 5. Production 6. Distributing the line

Problem: Microfibers Polluting the Ocean

1. Polyester, nylon, acrylic, and other synthetic fibers —all forms of plastic —make up 60 percent of our clothes worldwide• 2. Hundreds of thousands of these tiny plastic fibers (less than 5 millimeters) are leached from out clothes in just one load of laundry. 3. Accumulating in the food chain and being ingested by all sorts of marine wildlife, and even us!

Retail Cycle

1. Research 2. Design 3. Manufacturing 4. Merchandising 5. Retail Selling Unit 6. End User (client)

Problem: Textile Dye Pollution

1. Textile dyeing is the second largest polluter of water globally. 2. Around 8,000 synthetic chemicals are used in the fashion, textile and footwear industry to turn raw materials into final products. These chemicals pose health hazards to the people who work with them, and many of the chemicals also end up in freshwater systems

The Problem: How much we buy

1. The average American buys 70 items of clothing a year 2. Less than three years is the lifetime of an apparel item in developed countries. 3. The average person buys 60% more items of clothing and keeps them for about half as long as 15 years ago. 4. On average each American throws away roughly70 pounds of clothing and other textiles per year, equivalent in weight to more than 200 men's T-shirts.

The Solution: Changing Consumer Habits

1. Using a filter on your washing machine or a special laundry bag to collect the microfibers 2. Switch to natural fibers like cotton, hemp or linen 3. Buy fewer items of clothing

The Solution: Visionaries throughout the world are recasting the business model

1. hyper localism in rural areas like the American South-(clothes sewn locally from locally produced materials) 2. return of (smarter) manufacturing in New York, LA, and across Europe 3. holistic approach to luxury that will trickle down from the Paris runway to the online resellers (Gucci pledged to go carbon neutral) 4. circular fabrics -scientific breakthroughs that are creating closed loop fabrics (compostable, lab grown) 5. total rapid rethinking of how we buy and what we wear

Market center

A city where fashion is produced and sold at wholesale prices

High-Tech Fabric

A fabric that has been constructed, finished, or processed in a way that gives it certain innovative, unusual, or hard-to-acheive qualities not normally available

Fad

A fashion that suddenly sweeps into popularity, affects a limited part of the total population, and then quickly disappears

Regenerated fibers

A fiber created in a laboratory by combining natural materials with chemical compounds - IE: Rayon, Acetate, Lyocell

Synthetic Fibers

A fiber produced from basic raw materials such as petroleum or minerals and manufactured in a laboratory. Original form does not resemble a fiber. - IE: Nylon, Acrylic, Spandex, Polyester

Hemp

A fibrous plant

Trend

A general direction or movement

Ramie

A minor natural fiber from a woody- leafed plant grown mostly in China

Sustainable Fashion

A movement and process of fostering change to fashion products and the fashion system towards greater ecological integrity and social justice.

Fashion History: Clothing

A symbol or rank/class/privilege - 3rd century - sex/attractiveness - Consumption habits/personal image/power/money

Product Lifecycle Management (PLM)

An advanced software technology that helps manage the lifecycle of a product from concept through manufacture

Style #

Assign # to each individual design product

What is a B Corporation?

B Corps are for-profit companies certified by the nonprofit B Lab to meet rigorous standards of social and environmental performance, accountability, and transparency.

Solution: New Dye Technology

Biotech company Colorific Converts molasses- the by-product of sugar -into colourants for textile dyeing.

Mart

Building/complex of buildings that houses a wholesale market

Dye

Chemicals water soluble

Textile Fabric

Cloth or material made from fibers by weaving, knitting, braiding, feline, crocheting, knotting, laminating, or bonding

Color story

Color palette identified for each group's fashion season

What are the "4 big" natural fibers

Cotton, Wool, Silk, and Flax

Synthetic Fibers

Created thanks to tech innovation

Product Development stage 2

Creating the design concept

Decline stages

Decrease of in consumer demand for that fashion

Retail cycle stage 2

Design

Product Development stage 3

Developing a line (see study guide for more info)

Product Development stage 6

Distribution (distributing the line) (see study guide for more info)

The Great Depression 1929-1939

Economic struggles Hollywood fashions influence

Retail cycle stage 6

End user/customer

Decline

Fashion followers may purchase a few items greatly reduced prices from discounters

Mass acceptance

Fashion followers purchase from mass merchants

acceleration

Fashion followers purchase from traditional retailers in "moderate priced" departments

Innovation Cycle introduction

Fashion innovators purchase from the retailers who "lead" fashion

Innovation Cycle rise

Fashion leaders purchase from traditional relations in their "better" department

Natural Fibers

Fibers found in nature that originate from a plant or animal source - IE: cotton, Silk, Flax, and Wool (THE BIG 4)

Rayon

First Regenerated Fiber 1910

Nylon

First Synthetic Fiber 1938

Who just filed for bankruptcy

Forever 21

Processing

Greige goods are then cleaned and treating and shipped to textile manufactures

Retail cycle stage 3

Manufacturing

computer-intergraded manufacturing (CIM)

Many computers within a manufacturing company are linked from the design through the production stages

Retail cycle stage 4

Merchandising

Obsolescence

No one is buying! "You can't give it away!"

apparel manufacturer

Performs all the operations required to produce apparel

Prints

Pigments (dust) put into a resin and put on the surface of a fabric - most common: silkscreen printing, does very detailed patterns, inexpensive

Which stage does sourcing take place?

Planning Production

Product Development stage 1

Planning a line

Product Development stage 4

Planning production (see study guide for more info)

Flop

Popular trend that didn't work out

Fashion Forecaster

Predicts the styles that will be presented on the runway and in the stores for the upcoming seasons -Also considers: The consumers, analytics, fashion forecasters (Hunter, ID, Gather)

Product Development stage 5

Production (see study guide for more info)

Trade Associations

Professional organizations of manufacturing and sales representatives

Which stage is WGSN and forecasting?

Research - stage 1

Retail cycle stage 5

Selling unit/retail stores

What are Luxury fibers?

Silk, Alpaca, Vicuna, Llama, Cashmere

fair trade

Social movement whose stated goal is to help producers in developing countries achieve better trading conditions and promote sustainability

Seasonal Staple

Specific style used for specific seasons

Timeline/Fiscal calendar

Starts in Feb ends in Jan

Sustainability resources

The Fashion Revolutions a global movement whose mission is to unite people and organizations to work together towards radically changing the way our clothes are sourced, produced, and consumed, so that our clothing is made in a safe, clean, and fair way.

Sourcing

The decision process of determining how and when company's products or their components will be produced

Outsourcing

The decision process of determining how and where a company's products or their components will be produced

Texture

The look and feel of material

Manufacturing

The making of foods or wares by manual labor or by machinery, especially on a large scale

Style Number

The number manufacturers and retailers assigned. The number identifies the product for manufacturing, ordering, and selling.

Silhouette

The overall outline or contour

Culmination stages

The period when a fashion is at the hight of its popularity and use

market

The place where goods are produced and sold wholesale prices to stop buyers

Taste

The prevailing of what is/what is not appropriate for a given occasion

Product development

The taming of market and trend research with the merchandising, design, and technical process that develop the product.

Tariffs

Trump and China

How fast fashion has changed the normal cycle of producing a garment

Used to be 4 quarterly releases a year but stores like Sara now have one a week

3 Challenges to sustainability in the Fashion Industry

Water consumption and pollution, micro-plastics, over production and consumption micro-plastics

How are fibers turned into clothing?

Weaving and knitting

WGSN

World Global Style Network

computer-aided design (CAD)

a computer program that allows designers to manipulate their designs easily

Fashion Forecasting

a global career that focuses on upcoming trends.

Design

a particular or individual interpretation, version, treatment of a style

Classic

a style or design that satisfies a basic need and remains in general fashion acceptance for an extended period of time

Fashion

a style that is accepted and used by the majority of groups at any one time

trimmings

all the materials - excluding the fabric - used in the construction of a garment; including braid, bows, buckles, buttons, elastic, interfacing, padding, self-belts, thread, zippers, etc.

Rent the Runway

customers could rent name designer garments for a limited time, providing a more economical way to look fashionable

Sustainable Sourcing

exercise which goes beyond economic considerations and takes into account environmental, social and ethical factors as well.

Geotextiles

manufactured, permeable textiles currently used in reinforcing or stabilizing civil engineering projects - IE. Kevlar- Body armor, bike tires, etc.

sustainability

meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs

Primary Suppliers

producers of fibers, textile fabrics, finished leathers, and furs - IE. H&M

Retail cycle stage 1

research

Upcycling

reuse (discarded objects or material) in such a way as to create a product of a higher quality or value than the original

computer-aided manufacturing (CAM)

stand-alone computerized manufacturing equipment, including computerized sewing, pattern-making, and cutting machines

Detail

tHe individual elements that give the silhouette its form or shape

Bio Fibers

textile material produced from natural ingredients, in which the chemical processes are developed with no artificial additives

Black Documentary

the different stories of innovation (look back at documentaries)

The Fashion Cycle

the ongoing rise, peak, and fall in popularity of specific styles or shapes

Closed-loop supply chain

where previously discarded products circle back chain and minimize waste. A previously discarded product can therefore be repaired, resold or even dismantled for parts

WWI 1914-1918

women helped the war effort