Ch 11 - Firefighting Basic Tools

Chicago pike pole

A favorite tool of CFD because the originals were made by the CFD shops (214).

Set of Irons

A flat-head axe married to a Halligan bar (216).

Boston Rake

A great tool for older buildings with plaster and lath walls (214).

What kind of occupation is the fire department?

A labor-intensive, tool-dependent occupation (207).

Claw tool

A claw tool is a step up from a pry bar. It weights 14 lbs. It's a multipurpose prying tool, and although it's not extremely versatile it can perform many tasks on the fire ground when used correctly. Forcible-entry procedures can be performed easily with the claw tool. It's biggest disadvantage is the absence of an engineered striking surface on the hook end. The tool's length makes it a great level, but at 42" long or more and with two sharp ends, it's a tight fit in narrow hallways and rooms. The fork end can shut off residential, light commercial and industrial gas valves. It can also twist off padlocks. It makes for a good overhaul tool as well with its length (212-213).

Falcon Hook

A modified Halligan hook with broadened hooks and a curved cutting blade at the top, is a great hook for lightweight, metal buildings, tin ceilings, ductwork, and other hard-surface materials (215).

Live saw

A saw that's running (221).

Providence Hook

A special hook with a cutting surface on the backside of the point (pike) and another on the top of the hook, pushes easily into gypsum and plaster, downside. The head is so thin that it doesn't pull a lot of material on the down stroke. It's great for light, tin ceilings (214).

Bolt Cutters

Another cutting tool firefighters use. Bolt Cutters provide a quick and relatively easy method of cutting through various materials. Chain, lock shackles, fencing, etc., can be used by other tools, but bolt cutters are inexpensive and fast and efficient. It's important to use the right set for the material to be cut. Bolt cutters may not be suitable for case-hardened material (chains and lock shackles) but it's better for cutting fencing, light locks, and small cable. Be wary of dielectric bolt cutters and wire cutters. Firefighters never cut energized electric lines. Bolt cutters should be made of high-quality carbon steel with long, powerful, preferably fiberglass handles with rubber grips. The shorter the handle, the less leverage for cutting. Make sure you wear eye protection to protect from flying debris. When performing forcible entry, cut lock shackles high on the shackle (cutting too close may jam it). Don't use a firefighter on each handle, it's dangerous. The blade may dimple or shatter and the hinge mechanism of the bolt cutters might self-destruct under the tremendous pressure and force. Use another tool if you encounter case-hardened materials. Bolt cutters can be used to remove wire lath or mesh during overall. They can also twist off (not cut) battery terminals on cars and trucks. Be cautious when working around battery cells of hybrid cars - the voltage can be lethal (209).

How are firefighting tools categorized?

By what they allow firefighters to do (207).

Carrying a saw in a sling

Carrying a saw up a ladder in a sling enables a firefighter to maintain hand contact with the ladder. Most saws enable saw slings to be attached. Never carry a live saw up or down a ladder. A *choker hitch* can be made around the control handle of a saw and then the other end is looped around the blade and down onto the arbor (221).

Chain saws

Chain saws in the fire service are normally used for ventilation efforts at structural fires or for cutting trees to provide a fire break in wildland firefighting. Also assists in removing tress from structures and automobiles during weather-related emergencies. Some chain saws cut through concrete, reinforced concrete, bricks and cement block and are useful at building collapses and for breaching walls and floors. Chain saw is portable with two-cycle engine that runs on gas-and-oil fuel mixture. Some saws have a safety brake handle or lever that prevents the blade from rotating across the bar as the throttle lever is engaged. Saw chain teeth can be carbide-tipped and can cut a multitude of materials. A metal finger on the underside of the chain attaches to the link, enabling the chain to ride inside the guide bar, carry oil to lubricate the cut and engage in the sprocket to allow chain rotation around the bar. The most common saws have chain guards and cutting depth gauges, which is set to the depth of the cut and helps prevent the blade's teeth from cutting through the roof joists. These saws are normally used for roof ventilation (225).

Chain saw maintenance

Chain saws require more labor-intensive maintenance than rotary saws because of all its parts. See full list of requirements on page 227. (227).

Rotary power saw

Commonly called a cut-off saw, demolition saw or rescue saw. The rotary power saw plays a big part in firefighting tactics and procedures. Commonly used to assist firefighters in performing forcible entry, ventilation, breaching, and demolition operations. The rotary saw is a portible saw with a two-cycle engine that normally runs on a gas-and-oil fuel mixture. *Carbide-tip blades* are normally used for roof ventilation and cutting wood floors. They cut through tar-covered roofs, Lexan, acrylic glass panels, and light-gauge metal (Q-decking, metal, aluminum, and vinyl siding). These blades should not be used to cut case-hardened locks, roll-down security gates, or structural steel components because the tips could snap off the blade causing a severe injury to the firefighter. *Aluminum oxide abrasive blades*, sometimes known as discs, will cut heavy-gauge metals. These blades are made up of metallic and composite materials held together by an organic bonding agent. May be reinforced with a fabric or fiber base that prevents the blade from breaking apart during cutting operations. The blades cut through material by friction and heat the metal being cut, disintegrating it into sparks, chips, fragments, and dust. The life span of these discs are short if a large amount of metal is being cut. It can cut through wood but it's not the blade of choice. *Silicon carbide blades*, or abrasive discs, can cut through concrete, mortar, brick, block, tile and stone. The blade closely resembles the aluminum oxide blade but is made of different materials that when applied to materials heats it through friction, causing the material to turn into chips and dust. Some departments label or paint identification labels on them to distinguish between the two blades. *Diamond-cut grit blade* is another commonly used blade in the fire service, which is known as a multi-functional, multi-purpose blade, that will cut materials such as steel, concrete, and wood. These steel blades closely resemble carbide-tip blades. The major difference is that they are covered with industrial diamonds and grit held together by a bonding agent located toward the tops of the blade. They don't normally need lubricating fluids or water to assist the blade. The minor downfall is that these blades are expensive and once the diamond becomes worn, a blade will not cut well (217-218).

Refueling the saw

Shut down and move to a safe location to refuel. Use a small funnel to prevent spillage or injury (223).

What are the benefits of well-maintained tools?

They look good, function well, and are safer than neglected tools (216).

What's the advantage to effectively using tools as an extension of their body?

They may multiply the force or leverage applied (207).

Sledgehammer

Used for one purpose: to strike an object or another tool. It has striking surfaces on both sides of the head. Often mistakenly called a maul (which just has a striking surface on just one side of the head). The sledgehammer is a big, heavy hammer. If you have to swing too hard, get a heavier hammer. Sledgehammers should weight 8, 10, 12, or 16 pounds. The mass of the tool determines how effective it is, as well as your ability to swing and strike effectively and accurately. If you find yourself swinging the tool into a position out of your peripheral vision, use a heavier sledgehammer (210-211).

Starting a warm engine

Usually there is no need to choke the saw again once it's been on. The engine will be warm and sufficient fuel is in the fuel lines and carburetor chamber. If after two pulls the saw shows no signs of starting, then it may have to be choked again (220).

Halligan Hook

aka the multipurpose hook, invented by Huge Halligan. With its engineered angles, this hook makes quick work of overhauling. Ceilings, moldings, baseboards, and other trim offer little or no resistance (214).

Saw Safety

-All firefighters should maintain at least 10 feet from the saw during cutting operations. -1 tap= stop cut; 2 taps=cut; 3 taps=shut down the saw Full list on pages 219-220. (219-220).

Tasks accomplished by tools

-Cutting -Cutting and striking -Striking -Pushing -Pulling -Prying (207)

What forces will work against you when using an axe?

-Gravity -The force of the wind -Bad weather conditions -A burning structure -The weight and restrictions of your turnout gear (208).

What are the types of Striking tools?

-Sledgehammer (210)

Starting a cold engine

1) The firefighter checks that the stop or kill switch is in the off position 2) The firefighter engages or pulls the *choke lever*, switch or handle. 3) The firefighter then engages the *throttle handle trigger* and *throttle lock*. 4) If the saw is equipped with a *decompression button* the firefighter presses the button to reduce the pressure in the cylinder and makes the saw easier to start. 5) The firefighter places either boot into the saw handle while bending over to grab the control handle with the left hand. With the right hand, grip the starter cord handle. 6) The firefighter then slowly pulls the *starter cord* until resistance is met. Then pull quickly upward with the right arm. 7) Once the saw starts, the firefighter applies full throttle to disengage the throttle lock. This stops the saw from running at its full *revolutions per minute (RPM)*. 8) If the saw starts and putters or runs for a few seconds, push in the choke lever to keep it running. This doesn't happen often. Normally there is sufficient gas and oil mixture in the *carburetor* chamber to permit starting on the next pull. 9) Now that the saw is running, ensure that the blade has stopped rotating and lifts the saw upward toward the cutting task (220).

Pick-head axe

A steel, single-bit axe (only one cutting blade). The blade should maintain a smooth cutting surface that is free of nicks and dings. On the opposite side is a pick. This triangular point can pierce materials such as roofing when it is necessary to create a starting point for cutting. It can also shatter materials such as glass, plastic and fiberglass. An ideal axe head weights 8 lb. A heavier head will wear the user out before the task is accomplished and a lighter head will strike harder but will also exhaust the user and make the axe hard to control. Accuracy is the key to effectively using an axe. It will cut every time if swung correctly. To maximize effectiveness, keep your eye on the area in which you want to drop the axe blade. It's as much hand-eye coordination as strength. Before using an axe, clear the area around you. When swinging, your hands should not go above your shoulder on the upswing. Do not let the axe go behind your head and shoulders. Strike the surface at a slight angle, if you hit it straight on it may bounce back. If the axe is stuck, you can use a Halligan bar or piece of debris under the axe handle to dislodge it. The pick side of the pick-head axe allows a user to make a purchase point, or starting hole, in materials that are too hard or that have too much spring to allow immediate cutting. If the pick gets stuck, remember that it's self-extracting and should enlarge the hole enough to release it (208-209).

Flat-head axe

A steel, single-bit axe. The blade should have a smooth cutting surface that's free of nicks and dings. The opposite side of the blade is a flat striking surface that can be used as a sledgehammer. The handle is slightly different than from the pick-head axe. When using the flat-head axe, allow the weight of the tool to do the work. When ready to strike, inform the firefighter holding the tool that you're ready to strike. By putting your body weight behind the flat-head axe, you will strike and efficiently drive the tool into or through the target (209-210).

What are the four tools engineered to strike other tools?

All are used for forcible entry, ventilation, fire attack, rescue, and overhaul (216). -The back of the flat-head axe -The eight-pound splitting maul -The sledgehammer -The Halligan bar (in certain circumstances) (210)

Eight-pound splitting maul

Another tool that will complement your cutting and striking capabilities. The maul has a sledgehammer face on one side and a wedge-shaped splitter on the other side. The splitting maul can replace the flat-head axe in some forcible-entry situations. It's weight is effective, it's inexpensive and readily available. Used primarily the same way as the flat-head axe. The biggest difference is that the maul doesn't cut. It's designed to split wood. It makes short work for roof ventilation. The splitting maul easily splits OSB sheeting and even plywood. Also, no shingles have to be pulled due to the shape of the head. When using, expect the tool's tendency to invert to the striking side. Accuracy is key. Wall breaching and situations that require greater force than can be delivered with an 8 lb tool call for a sledgehammer (210).

Reciprocating saw

Commonly used for vehicle extrication, machinery extrication, and building collapses. These portable saws are lightweight, small, and easy to transport. Capable of operating on battery power with no need for an electrical cord. Some also operate on air supply and normal, household electrical current. Commonly called sabre saws or by the brand, Sawzall. The saws can be equipped with a multitude of blades that can cut wood, metal, plastic, automobile windshields, and drywall. Many of these blades can cut a few types of materials and may be labeled as bi-metal, meaning they can cut metal and wood products. The blades can be placed either up or down to offer different angle or plane of cutting. Replace blade even though the blade may still have some life left in it (227-228).

Body position for starting a saw

Developed by Lieutenant Michael Ciampo of NYFD. Squat behind the saw and put knee on the air filter. Advantages: -Puts hand closer to the choke and throttle lever -Shortens pulling distance, reducing chance of damaging the recoil spring -Better lift, reducing risk of injury -Can be used on different types of saws (221).

Traveling with a chain saw

Engage the chain brake before moving to a new location. If the saw isn't running, the chain should face the rear in case you were to trip and fall (225).

Traveling with a live saw

Ensure the blade has stopped rotating before changing locations or positions. Firefighters will roll a live saw on its blade when traveling which decreases its chances of injuring a firefighter. It can also inform them of any holes in the roof, shafts, setbacks, or edges of the roof (221).

Gypsum Board Hook

Isn't a hook but a clawed rake that can chew and open up gypsum wallboard with little or no effort on your part. The angled jaw and cutting blade make pulling drywall easy (215).

San Francisco Hook

Named because the city has many lath and plaster houses, quickly penetrates plaster and lath and pulls big holes in ceiling and walls during overhaul. The chisel point on the top of the pike allows for quick, efficient trim removal (215).

What are the Prying tools?

Next to cutting tools for getting you to a fire, the most important group of tools can pry or increase leverage. -Pry bars (forcible entry, ventilation, fire attack, rescue overhaul) -Claw tool (forcible entry, ventilation, fire attack, rescue, overhaul) -Halligan bar (forcible entry, ventilation, fire attack, rescue, and overhaul) (211-213).

Misccellaneous rotary saws

Many types of saws powered by hydraulic fluid, lithium batteries, electricity and water in a rotary design. Not common on the fire ground but can be used during collapsed-building operations and vehicle extrication (224).

L.A. Trash hook or Rubbish hook

Not a hook, it's also a rake. Often referred to as an arson rake or trash hook, this tool is great for raking trash around in a burning dumpster to make sure you've gotten it all. It works as a great lever in removing beadboard ceilings. The design of the head allows you to push down large sections of ceiling without getting tangled in the wiring (215).

New York Hook

Officer hook for the FDNY, is similar to the standard hook in configuration, but is beefier. A great hook for heavy-duty work. The head design allows more leniency when used as a prying tool (215).

Operating the chain saw: tree cutting

Prior to cutting, do a scene size-up to ensure there are no electrical lines. To begin saw operations, place the saw against the tree with the bumper spikes in contact with the tree. Using the tip is dangerous and should not be done (226-227).

Starting Operations

Prior to starting the saw, ensure that the saw is in proper working order and is equipped with the right blade for the task. There should also be sufficient room around the saw. Shake the saw prior to starting it to ensure the gas and oil int eh fuel tank are properly mixed (220).

Pry bars

Pry bars are the ultimate in simplicity because they are basic, true levers. There are two types: *Pinch-point bars* and *Wedge-point bars*. Pinch-point bars have one beveled side, and Wedge-point bars have a bevel on both sides of the bar, forming a wedge point. Both are available is various sizes, dimensions, and weights. They are considered limited-use because many fire service tools work more efficiently. Nonetheless, their use in collapses, heavy rescue, and some confined-space, industrial rescues cannot be matched by other tools. The pry bar can be used in conventional forcible entry to force open doors, windows, etc. These bars should not be the first choice for forcible entry. A big advantage to pry bars over other tools is its length and narrow profile. These tools can be used with a proper fulcrum to raise collapsed material, machine parts, automobiles, trees, and other debris that has fallen or blocked a means of egress. A firefighter may use a pry bar when stabilizing a car with cribbing by using the cribbing as a fulcrum. They can gently move or lift a vehicle by slipping cribbing materials under the frame. Pry bars can quickly open plaster and lath walls. Pinch-point bars are excellent tools for prying up wood floors. You can use the tool as a securing post for ground monitors or deck guns. The pry bar can be driven into the ground like a fence post, and the monitor can be secured to it. Wedge-point bar has a slight advantage over the pinch-point bar in conventional forcible entry. When combined with a striking tool, the wedge point of the bar can be driven into a door, window frame, etc. The wedge shape allows the tool to slip readily into recessed areas while spreading force is applied in both directions (211-212).

Cleaning the pick- and flat-head axe

Remove all paint from the head. Sand or use a wire brush until the steel is clean and shiny. Use a mill bastard file to maintain the cutting edge of the axe. Do not over sharpen. Do not use a grinder. When finished, put a thin coating of light machine or motor oil on the tool head. Do not use any lubricant that contains 1,1,1,-trichloroethane (216).

Tool safety

Safety is a number one priority at all times on the fireground. Never lose sight of the tool during your swing (so no over-the-head, off-behind-you or way-around-sidearm swings). Keep the tool head in site and maintain good hand-eye coordination to deliver the maximum effective blows on target (211).

Maintenance

Saw maintenance is a large factor in determining the life expectancy of a saw. Check the following regularly and after each use: -Saw and guard blade must be clean and free of debris that could affect operation. -Saw's throttle components, choke and shutoff must operate freely and correctly. -Saw's starter cord and handle must be free from defects. -Saw's air intake fins must be free of debris -All bolts and nuts must be tight and secure -Fuel tank must be full and the cap must be secured -Clutch assembly and belt must be adjusted properly (224).

Operating the chain saw

Saw operations should be performed as a two person team: the saw operator and a backup, safety or guide firefighter. Safety is responsible for the movement of the pair, giving hand signals, and watching and monitoring conditions around them. Chain saws help firefighters in ventilating hurricane windows (226).

Operating with a saw

Saw operations should be performed as a two person team: the saw operator and a backup, safety or guide firefighter. Safety is responsible for the movement of the pair, giving hand signals, and watching and monitoring conditions around them. This is normally used for roof ventilation, not necessary for cutting a lock off a gate and other simple tasks. Ensure carbide and multi-purpose blades are running at full RPMs so it doesn't get stuck. The saw's foot bracket should rest on the material when it's parallel to the material being cut. *Kerf* is the depth and width of a cut line. Do not *gun the saw*, or play with the saw's throttle while waiting to perform another cut. It can damage the saw or injure another firefighter. Firefighters should operate in a *boxer's stance* (222-223).

Halligan bar

The Halligan bar might be considered one fire service-driven innovation that changed the way fire service operations are conducted. It was created by Chief Hugh Halligan in the 1940s. This bar is the preferred prying tool. It's the most efficient, effective tool available to any firefighter for tasks that require leverage. The tool's design allows for multiple functions with one tool, but leverage is the key. Halligans are available from 20" to 42" in length. The longer the bar, the greater amount of leverage it's capable of producing. A 30" Halligan bar (9 lbs) is the best bar for day-to-day, conventional forcible entry, ventilation, overhaul, and other standard fireground activities. It's a single piece of forged steel. The adz end of the tool gently curves and flares slightly from the tool's shaft to the end of the adz. It's beveled, with the bevel on the topside of the adz. The Halligan tool has three areas designed as striking surfaces: the top of the tool, the side opposite the pick, and the side opposite the adz. The shaft of the tool is usually at least 15/16" hexagonal steel, and the shape adds strength and rigidity, which improves the grip on the tool. The fork should be a minimum of 6" long and taper into two well-beveled tines. Two other versions of the Halligan bar exist: the San Francisco bar and the Chicago Patrol bar. Although both are outstanding tools, the Halligan bar is more universally used by the fire service (213).

Pike Pole

The Pike pole is one of the oldest tools in our arsenal of weapons to combat fires and, next to the pick-head axe, is the most readily identified tool of our trade. They're used during most fire incidents to pull apart debris and burning materials, open walls and ceilings, remove trim, and allow engine companies to find and extinguish deep-seated fires. Pike pole handles come in three basic materials: wood, metal, and fiberglass. The shape of the pole can be round, oval, or I-beam. The biggest problem is the pole's diameter - it's 2" or more in diameter- which are hard to work with because they don't fit in your hand, are slippery when wet and are difficult to stow on the apparatus. Many departments use 4' poles. "Tip: you'll be much more efficient if you use a Halligan bar in place of the short hook." Pole length should depend on the type of structure for which you'll use it in. Consider taking a 6' pole as the minimum length pole carried for standard firefighting operations. It will easily reach most parts of a residential structure that you will need to reach. The 8' pole should be the minimum length pole for commercial structure or light-industrial buildings. The 10' pole is not suitable for a typical residential home. It's most useful in commercial buildings and light-industrial buildings. The most common head style is the standard pike pole (214).

Carrying tools

The safest way to carry a tool (axe, maul or sledgehammer) is to grasp the handle close to the head of the tool with the handle pointing away from you. You can also use the tool as a search tool when it's in this position. The handle will act as a blind man's cane (211).

What are the Cutting and Striking tools?

The tools that allow firefighters to cut and strike are a step up from single-use tools. -Flat-head axe (forcible entry, ventilation, fire attack, rescue, and overhaul) -Eight-pound splitting maul (209-210)

What are the cutting tools?

There are two types of tools that strictly cut: one is a type of axe, the tool most recognized within the fire service, and the other is different-sized bolt cutters. -Pick-head Axe (forcible entry, overhaul, rescue, fire attack, ventilation) -Bolt Cutters (forcible entry, rescue) (208-209).