Chapter 16: Haircutting

apex

Highest point on the top of the head

interior

Inner or internal part.

part/parting

Line dividing the hair at the scalp, separating one section of hair from another, creating subsections.

slide cutting

Method of cutting or layering the hair in which the fingers and shears glide along the edge of the hair to remove length.

cast

Method of manufacturing shears; a metal-forming process whereby molten steel is poured into a mold and, once the metal is cooled, takes on the shape of the mold.

perimeter

Outer line of a hairstyle.

cross-checking

Parting the haircut in the opposite way from which you cut it in order to check for precision of line and shape.

reference points

Points on the head that mark where the surface of the head changes or the behavior of the hair changes, such as ears, jawline, occipital bone, apex, and so on; used to establish design lines that are proportionate.

four corners

Points on the head that signal a change in the shape of the head, from flat to round or vice versa.

forged

Process of working metal to a finished shape by hammering or pressing.

line

Thin, continuous mark used as a guide; can be straight or curved, horizontal, vertical, or diagonal.

true or false: When analyzing a client's face shape to determine an appropriate hairstyle, it is important to remember that weight and volume draw attention to a specific area.

True- If a client has a wide face, for example, a hairstyle with fuller sides will make the face seem wider, whereas a narrower style will give length to the face.

true or false: Texturizing techniques can be used to add or remove volume.

True- You can use texturizing techniques to add or remove volume, make hair move, and to blend one area into another.

true or false: There is no elevation in a blunt or one-length haircut

True- elevation occurs when you lift any section of hair above 0 degrees

weight line

Visual line in the haircut where the ends of the hair hang together.

shrinkage

When hair contracts or lifts through the action of moisture loss or drying.

distribution

Where and how hair is moved over the head.

parietal ridge

Widest area of the head, usually starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown.

Which hand position is best to use when you need to maintain control of a subsection while cutting a vertical or diagonal cutting line? a- cutting palm-to-palm b- cutting over your fingers c- palming the shears d- cutting below the fingers

a- cutting palm-to-palm- When cutting a vertical or diagonal cutting line, cutting palm-to-palm is the best way to maintain control of the subsection.

Palming haircutting shears when combing the hair prevents you from cutting yourself and also: a- keeps the partings of the hair smooth d- reduces the number of cutting movements c- reduces strain on the index finger and thumb d- keeps haircutting shears sharper longer

c- reduces strain on the index finger and thumb-

true or false: Blunt haircuts are not recommended for clients with fine or thin hair.

false- Blunt haircuts are excellent for finer and thinner hair types because all the hair is cut to one length, making it appear thicker.

true or false: Cast shears are usually more expensive than forged shears because they are more expensive to produce.

false- Cast shears are typically less expensive to produce than forged shears, and they are usually less expensive to purchase.

true or false: A straight razor or feather blade is mainly used when a more dramatic effect on the ends of the hair is desired.

false- Straight razors or feather blades are mainly used when a softer effect on the ends of the hair is desired.

true or false: The short textured bang (fringe) is most commonly used on long hair.

false- The short textured bang (fringe) is most commonly used on short hair.

true or false: Clippers are usually cordless, smaller-sized trimmers.

false- Trimmers are usually cordless, smaller-sized clippers.

true or false: You can change right-handed shears into left-handed shears by turning them over.

false- Turning a right-handed shear over does not make it appropriate for a left-handed cutter because the blades of the shear need to be reversed.

true or false: You should use a stationary guideline when performing a uniform-layered haircut.

false- Your guide for a uniform-layered haircut is an interior traveling guideline, not a stationary guideline.

true or false: Overdirection is the degree to which you lift a section away from the head

false- elevation is the degree to which you lift a section away from the head. overdirection occurs when you comb the hair away from its natural falling position, rather than straight out from the head.

true or false: Any haircut you can create with shears can also be done with the razor.

true- A razor can be used to cut horizontal, vertical, and diagonal lines, and can be used to create any haircut that can be created with shears.

true or false: When cutting hair, you should stand or sit directly in front of the area you are cutting.

true- Standing or sitting directly in front of the area you are cutting will keep your body weight centered.

true or false: You should remove your thumb from the thumb grip when palming your shears.

true- To palm your shears, you remove your thumb from the thumb grip, leaving your ring and little fingers in the grip and finger rest, and then curl your fingers to palm the shears.

true or false: To tighten the tension on your shears, you should turn the adjustment knob to the right.

true- Turning the adjustment knob to the right tightens the tension, and turning it to the left loosens the tension.

growth pattern

Direction in which the hair grows from the scalp; also referred to as natural fall or natural falling position.

layered haircut

Effect achieved by cutting the hair with elevation or overdirection; the hair is cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees or above, which removes weight.

graduation

Elevation that occurs when a section is lifted above 0 degrees.

hairline

Hair that grows at the outermost perimeter along the face, around the ears, and on the neck.

When standing to work on a haircut, you should NOT: a- center your body weight b- keep your knees slightly bent c- stand to the side of the section you are cutting d- make sure the client is sitting up straight

C- stand to the side of the section you are cutting- As a general rule, you should always stand or sit directly in front of the area you are cutting, instead of standing to the side.

A(n) _____ moves as the haircut progresses. a- perimeter guideline b- stationary guideline c- traveling guideline d- cutting guideline

C- traveling guideline

long-layered haircut

Haircut in which the hair is cut at a 90-degree elevation and then overdirected to maintain length and weight at the perimeter.

taper

Haircutting effect in which there is an even blend from very short at the hairline to longer lengths as you move up the head; to taper is to narrow progressively at one end.

texturizing

Haircutting technique designed to remove excess bulk without shortening the length; changing the appearance or behavior of the hair through specific haircutting techniques using shears, thinning shears, or a razor.

carving

Haircutting technique done by placing the still blade into the hair, resting it on the scalp, and then moving the shears through the hair while opening and partially closing the shears.

free-hand notching

Haircutting technique in which pieces of hair are snipped out at random intervals.

point cutting

Haircutting technique in which the tips of the shears are used to cut pointsinto the ends of the hair.

diagonal back

A type of diagonal line that creates movement away from the face.

diagonal forward

A type of diagonal line that creates movement toward the face.

clipper-over-comb

Haircutting technique similar to scissor-over-comb, except that the clippers move side to side across the comb rather than bottom to top.

What at-home care does the stylist Leysa recommend for curly hair that has been colored? a- A hydration mask at every washing b- A short bob style to de-emphasize natural hair color growing in c- Wearing the hair pulled back from the face d- Stretching the hair out, like an old phone cord, to relax the curl

A- A hydration mask at every washing

Curly hair always feels dry because a- The cuticle is raised, so it doesn't retain hydration. b- Tight curls allow too much air circulation. c- Most clients with curly hair don't use enough conditioner. d- The bounce in curly hair causes it to lose moisture.

A- The cuticle is raised, so it doesn't retain hydration.

The _____ area is also known as the fringe area. a- bang b- crown c- apex d- nape

A- bang

A(n) _____ line creates movement toward the face. a- diagonal forward b- vertical c- horizontal d- diagonal back

A- diagonal forward

A(n) _______ is a section of hair that determines the length the hair will be cut. a- guideline b- traveling guideline c- stationary guideline d- cutting line

A- guideline

A(n) _____ is the line dividing the hair at the scalp, separating one section of hair from another, creating subsections. a- parting b- guideline c- subsection d- hairline

A- parting

A(n) _____ is the working area that the hair is separated into prior to cutting. a- section b- guideline c- parting d- angle

A- section

slicing

Haircutting technique that removes weight and adds movement through the lengths of the hair; the shears are not completely closed, and only the portion of the blades near the pivot is used.

free-hand slicing

Haircutting technique used to release weight from the subsection, allowing the hair to move more freely.

beveling

Haircutting technique using diagonal lines by cutting hair ends with a slight increase or decrease in length.

The ______ is the part of the head that is found by placing a comb flat on the side of the head. a- bang area b- crown c- nape d- parietal ridge

D- parietal ridge

notching

Haircutting technique, a version of point cutting, in which the tips of the shears are moved toward the hair ends rather than into them; creates a chunkier effect.

How should a client be seated in the chair during a haircut? a- sitting up straight with the legs uncrossed b- sitting up straight with the legs crossed c- sitting in whatever position is most comfortable for the client d- standing with the back straight

A- sitting up straight with the legs uncrossed- A client should be sitting up straight with her or his legs uncrossed during a haircut.

blunt haircut

Also known as a one-length haircut; haircut in which all the hair comes to one hanging level, forming a weight line or area; hair is cut with no elevation or overdirection.

guideline

Also known as guide; section of hair, located either at the perimeter or the interior of the cut, which determines the length the hair will be cut. Usually the first section that is cut to create a shape.

head form

Also known as head shape; the shape of the head, which greatly affects the way the hair falls and behaves.

traveling guideline

Also known as movable guideline; guideline that moves as the haircutting progresses, used often when creating layers or graduation.

elevation

Also known as projection or lifting; the degree at which a subsection of hair is held, or lifted, from the head when cutting.

scissor-over-comb

Also known as shear-over-comb; haircutting technique in which the hair is held in place with the comb while the tips of the shears are used to remove length.

effilating

Also known as slithering; process of thinning the hair to graduated lengths with shears; cutting the hair with a sliding movement of the shears while keeping the blades partially opened.

tension

Amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a section, created by stretching or pulling the section.

cutting line

Angle at which the fingers are held when cutting, and, ultimately, the line that is cut; also known as finger angle, finger position, cutting position, or cutting angle.

crown

Area of the head between the apex and back of the parietal ridge.

By the end of the consultation, Sandy and Hassan decide that the best option for her new hairstyle would be a long-layered haircut. At which elevation will Hassan cut Sandy's hair? a- 0 degrees b- 90 degrees c- 120 degrees d- 45 degrees

B- 90 degrees- With a long-layered haircut, the hair is cut at a 90-degree elevation and is then overdirected to maintain length and weight at the perimeter.

Why does the stylist Leysa suggest sitting at eye level with the client during the first meeting? a- To see how the client's hair naturally falls on the neck and shoulders b- So the client will feel comfortable with the stylist c- To see how tall the client is d- To determine the client's eye color, for better matching hair color

B- So the client will feel comfortable with the stylist

The _____ on the head mark where the surface of the head changes, such as the ears, jawline, occipital bone, or apex. a- apex b- growth pattern c- reference points d- head form

C- reference points

Sandy's hair is still wet from the shampoo service when Hassan is ready to begin styling her hair. Based on their conversation during the consultation, Has-san knows that Sandy's hair will need to be about 15 inches long on the sides. How long should Hassan cut Sandy's hair? a- about 14½ inches b- about 15½ inches c- exactly 16 inches d- exactly 15 inches

B- about 15½ inches- If the client's hair is wet when you cut it, you should cut it about ¼ to ½ longer than the desired length, because it will shrink as it dries.

nape

Back part of the neck; the hair below the occipital bone.

occipital bone

Bone that protrudes at the base of the skull.

Kevin is ready to begin a day's work on the clinic floor. Kevin is booked solid all day with clients. Knowing he will be on his feet all day performing several services he wants to put into practice what he has recently learned about proper body position and posture. After he seats his first client, Kevin...... a- ....adjusts the height of the chair, positions himself with his body weight evenly centered, and rotates his client in the chair as he works through the cut. b- ....raises the height of the chair so he does not have to bend over and begins to walk around the client as he works through the cut. c- ....adjusts the height of the chair, positions himself with his body weight evenly centered, keeps his knees slightly bent rather than locked, and rotates his client in the chair as he works through the cut. d- ....adjusts the chair height, stands with his body weight evenly centered, and works through the cut reaching around the client to cut various sections of hair.

C- ....adjusts the height of the chair, positions himself with his body weight evenly centered, keeps his knees slightly bent rather than locked, and rotates his client in the chair as he works through the cut.- Kevin is putting into practice four strategies. 1- Adjusting the height of the chair, 2- having a centered stance, 3-rotating the chair instead of walking or reaching around the client, and 4- Kevin keeps his knees slightly bent and not locked.

According to the stylist Leysa, what might be an appropriate lifestyle question to ask on meeting a new client? a- What is your income? (to determine how much can be spent on hair care) b- How old are you? (to determine extent of damage from prior treatments) c- How do you normally wear your hair? (to understand the client's style preferences) d- Do you have pets in your home? (to identify potential allergies)

C- How do you normally wear your hair? (to understand the client's style preferences)

When they sit down for the client consultation, Sandy tells Hassan that she is thinking about going with a very short style cut closely on the sides. Hassan notes that Sandy has a wide face and believes that such a style would be inappropriate for her because it would make her face seem too round. What should Hassan do? a- agree with her and style her hair as she described b- tell her that styling her hair that way would not be attractive c- focus on the benefits of some alternative styles d- disagree with her and refuse to style her hair as described

C- focus on the benefits of some alternative styles- When a client asks for a style that you know will not be the best look for him or her, you should use gentle persuasion and positive reinforcement to offer alternative suggestions that will work with the client's hair texture, face shape, and lifestyle.

A _______ line is the type of line that directs the eye from one side to the other. a- diagonal forward b- vertical c- horizontal d- diagonal

C- horizontal

overdirection

Combing a section away from its natural falling position, rather than straight out from the head, toward a guideline; used to create increasing lengths in the interior or perimeter.

layers

Create movement and volume in the hair by releasing weight.

palm-to-palm

Cutting position in which the palms of both hands are facing each other.

How does the stylist Leysa suggest responding when a client reports doing something that is not good for the hair? a- Suggest a short haircut to remove the damaged hair. b- Reprimand the client for being careless with the hair. c- Ask why the client has adopted an unhealthy hair practice. d- Listen first then educate in a positive way.

D- Listen first then educate in a positive way.

A(n) _____ is created when the space between two lines or surfaces intersect at a given point. a- subsection b- parting c- section d- angle

D- angle

stationary guideline

Guideline that does not move.

interior guidline

Guideline that is inside the haircut rather than on the perimeter.

uniform layers

Hair is elevated to 90 degrees from the scalp and cut at the same length.

pivoting

Rotates from a central point; also referred to as pie shape sections, used for layering and graduating.

graduated haircut

Slow or immediate buildup of weight; an effect or haircut that results from cutting the hair with tension, low to medium elevation, or overdirection.

subsections

Smaller sections within a larger section of hair, used to maintain control of the hair while cutting.

angle

Space between two lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point.

razor-over-comb

Texturizing technique in which the comb and the razor are used on the surface of the hair.

razor rotation

Texturizing technique similar to razor-over-comb, done with small circular motions.

section

To divide the hair by parting into uniform working areas for control. During haircutting, the working areas of the hair. Working in smaller sections gives better control.