Chapter 8: Facial Treatments

Aging Through the Decades

1. 20s: Up to 90% of the visible skin changes commonly attributed to aging are caused by the sun and can be seen as early as in one's twenties 2. 30s: a. Cell turnover slows down b. Epidermal cells suffer more from environmental damage. Wrinkles still may not be visible c. Dermis begins to lose some volume and bounce d. Collagen fibers aren't as efficiently meshed, elastin coils less tight 3. 40s: a. Sebum production reduced b. the stratum corneum is thicker as more dead skin cells linger longer c. Darker pigmentation may appear due to environmental damage d. Expression lines deepen e. Dilated veins may appear 4. 50s: a. Age spots may appear b. Hormonal changes-decrease in estrogen, increase in androgen- may lead to breakouts c. Sebum production decreases, depriving the skin its natural moisture 5. 60s, 70s, & Beyond: a. Genetic/disposition to certain skin type/problems (i.e. bags under the eyes, double chin, pigmentation) reveals itself. b. Effects of intrinsic aging vs. environmental aging are now visible c. Less sebum production contributes to skin dryness. d. Skin becomes dryer and more fragile

Ingredients for Mature Skin

1. Aging or sun-damaged skin needs antioxidant topically and orally. Antioxidants such as Vitamins A, B3, C and E; minerals; green tea; and grapeseed extract all help protect the body from free radicals. 2. Alpha hydroxy acids can help combat the signs of aging and sun damage. Hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, sodium PCA, and glycerin all bind water to the skin and retain the moisture that is essential to maturing skin. Peptides, lipids, polyglucans, coenzyme Q10, and liposomes are all beneficial performance ingredients

Pollution

1. Air pollution comprises tiny particles called particulate matter that contain nitrogen dioxide (NO2) and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH). When they come in contact with the skin, they activate multiple pathways of inflammation. 2. Some pathways ignite the melanocytes, which create far too much pigment, which manifests in hyperpigmentation. Some excite enzymes that reabsorb damaged collagen. Too much chronic inflammation, the enzymes remove more collagen than your skin can create, this produces skin laxity, causing a cascade that results in fine lines and wrinkles.

Essential Customer Service Practices Perform for a Facial Service

1. Always approach a client with a smile 2. Always introduce yourself to new clients and greet returning clients by name. A brief yet warm handshake will make the client feel welcome 3. Set aside a few minutes to take new clients on a quick tour of the facility. This helps the clients to feel comfortable and at home 4. Your client is paying for your service; therefore it is common courtesy to devote the time you are with your client to your to your client and their needs, not yours. Refrain from discussion your own problems or allowing your mood to intrude on the service. 5. Be professional yet genuine. Your clients can sense when you are being genuine and open, and they will have more confidence in you and in your expertise. Your number one objective is to find out and address their skin concerns

Tips for Men's Treatments

1. Avoid using perfumed and fragrant products in the facial room. Keep the service as clean and simple as possible. Cater to specific needs by incorporating grooming services such as trimming or waxing eyebrows, nostril hair, and ear hair 2. Men do not want to walk out of a spa with red, blotchy skin caused by an aggressive extraction session. Additional services to calm skin, apply products, and even concealing makeup should be considered 3. When deciding on a retail line for males, keep in mind the kinds of packaging that many men prefer. It should not be pink or red, but, rather, sleek and simple. Choose products that can be sprayed on quickly, and swap jars for bottles with pumps so they can be easily packed in gym bags and for trips 4. Retail products should be merchandised to emphasize qualities such as non-greasy, rinses off easily, and protects the skin. Perfume-free, color-free, calming, and stress-reducing are good buzzwords to use when describing offerings that will appeal to men

Focus on the client

1. Be genuine in your concern for your client and focus on their needs. 2. Give the client your full attention at all times. 3. Ask the client what their skin concerns are. Listen carefully before you respond.

Perform Initial Skin Analysis and Agree on Treatment Plan

1. Before cleansing, inspect skin type and conditions: is it dry, normal, or oily? Is the skin texture smooth or rough? Are there fine lines or creases? Are there blackheads or acne conditions? Are dilated capillaries visible? Is the skin color even 2. Want to see the skin's natural state before cleansing, especially if the client is wearing makeup. Ask client what their skin concerns are

After the first treatment, do the following:

1. Block out 15 minutes to explain proper home care for the client. Subsequent visits can be reduced to five-minute intervals 2. Have the client sit in the facial chair, or invite them to move to a well-lit consultation area. A mirror should be provided, so that they can see the conditions you will be discussing 3. Explain, in simple terms, the client's skin conditions, informing them of how you propose to treat the conditions. Inform them of how often treatments should be administered in the salon or sap, and very specifically explain what they should be doing at home. 4. Set out the products you want the client to purchase and use. Explain each one, and tell them in which order to use them. Make sure to have written instructions for the client to take home. 5. It is important to have products available for the client that you believe in and that produce results. Retailing products for clients to use at home is important to the success of your treatments and to your business

Complete the Facial Cleansing with Appropriate Cleanser and Toner

1. Cleanse to remove impurities and makeup before the in-depth skin analysis and facial treatment 2. Proper cleansing is imperative to the success of your facial treatment, because not all skin types and concerns are the same. Different cleansing formulas from rich, creamy cleansers to lightweight foaming cleansers a. cream-based cleansers are for dry to more mature skin types b. Mousse is for combination skin, and gels and liquids are for oilier skin types

Changing Instructions

1. Client can change into their robe/and or spa wrap and remove their shoes in a changing room or treatment room 2. Explain what clothing can be removed: shoes, restrictive pants, and bras 3. Let the client know the neck and shoulders are usually bare for facials 4. Dark fabric will collect lint from sheets, so it is best to remove clothing that will be under the sheets. Let clients decide what clothing they are comfortable removing 5. Instruct the client on how to prepare for the treatment and how to put on the facial wrap.

Basic Facial Major Steps

1. Client consultation, including review of contraindications: discuss client intake form, client signing consent form (signed before each treatment) 2. Client draping and esthetician hand washing 3. Initial skin analysis and continue client consultation and treatment plan creation 4. Warm towels and facial cleansing with appropriate cleanser and toner 5. In-depth skin analysis 6. Exfoliation procedure (Optional) 7. Massage 8. Softening with steam or warm towels (can also steam performing facial massage or during exfoliation) 9. Extractions and/or deep pore cleansing 10. Mask (clay, hydrating, or any mask type that is appropriate to client's skin type and condition) 11. Toner 12. Serums, eye treatments, and lip treatments 13. Moisturizer 14. Daily sun protection products 15. Service completion, including post consultation and home care

Facial treatments include the following benefits

1. Deep cleanses 2. Exfoliates 3. Increases circulation and detoxifies 4. Relaxes the senses, nerves, and muscles 5. Slows down symptoms and premature aging 6. Addresses conditions such as dryness, oiliness, and redness 7. Softens the appearance of wrinkles and aging lines 8. Helps lessen the appearance of blemishes and minor acne 9. Provides access to an esthetician's expertise for at-home skin care maintenance 10. Supports skin health and making good lifestyle choices.

Biological Changes in Aging Skin

1. Differences in aging and sun-damaged skin from youthful, healthy skin are noticeable in loss of moisture, in fine lines and wrinkles, and in the thinning of the epidermis. 2. As skin ages, it undergoes biological changes due to reduction of estrogen, including reduction collagen and elastin. 3. Each passing year the average moisture content of the stratum corneum is slightly decreased, manifesting in fine lines. The epidermis thins out and the dermal papilla, which is the anchor of the epidermis, flattens out, resulting in a loose, tissue-like texture. Cell renewal rate slows down, making healing slower. Circulation becomes impaired, resulting in desquamation becoming uneven, which affects the eveness of skin tone

Client Charts

1. During the skin analysis, necessary to keep the client's chart on hand to write down any information or changes that have occurred in the client's skin, even if the client is a regular and you are familiar with their skin 2. The esthetician must train their sight and touch to know what to look for during skin analysis Note: Ask about the use of Retin-A and glycolic acid because the skin is more sensitive when such products are used

Acne Care Tips

1. Eliminate comedogenic products. Oil-free does not mean "noncomedogenic." 2. Examine the ingredients on product labels to determine if they are age appropriated for problem skin 3. Control oil through proper product usage. Do not irritate the skin with harsh products 4. Exfoliate the skin. Keep the skin clean and exfoliated to keep sebum and cells from building up. Beta or alpha hydroxy acids are beneficial. Do not overuse the products. Once a day is sufficient. 5. Protect against environmental aggressors, dirt, grease, UV light humidity, and pollution 6. Practice stress reduction and good nutrition. 7. Have regular facials once a month as needed

Rosacea

1. Estheticians cannot treat or diagnose any medical condition, and rosacea is considered a medical condition. 2. Condition typically manifests as redness in the central area of the face, including on the cheeks an nose in butterfly pattern, and it is characterized by flare-up and remissions 3. Broken blood vessels can also become more apparent. Left untreated, pustules and large, inflamed nodules can result that are often misdiagnosed as acne. After a prolonged period, this condition can result in permanent enlargement of the nasal tissue or rhinophyma, where the tip of the nose becomes enlarged and red. Eyes can also become affected, appearing watery and bloodshot. Condition can be exacerbated by factors such as alcohol, spicy foods, and heat, making its symptoms similar to hypersensitive skin.

Completing the Service

1. Explain to the client what to do next - eg meet you outside in the reception area. Offer the client water to rehydrate 2. Client consultation after the service includes recommending products and booking their next appointment. Show the client which products you recommend, and write them down on a home care instruction sheet for them to keep 3. Explain that you will also record the products you recommend in their file 4. Recommend that they reschedule once a month for a facial and any other services you believe would benefit them, such as a brow wax, or lash tint. 5. Ask them what products they would like to take home with them. 6. Thank them for coming, and let them know you enjoyed meeting them.

Client comfort

1. Help the client to relax by speaking in a quiet and professional manner. 2. Provide a professional atmosphere and work efficiently. 3. Make sure the client is comfortable. Proper beds and chairs are important. 4. Always wear disposable gloves 5. Keep your nails smooth and short to avoid scratching the client's skin. 6. Remove rings, bracelets, and other jewelry that may injure the client, get in the way, or cause a distraction during the treatment. 7. Be aware of your touch and the amount of pressure you apply to the face.

Hormones

1. Hormones are chemicals secreted by cells or glands, and they act as messengers that are sent out from one part of the body to signal cells in other parts of the body. Regulate the body's internal environment 2. Effects of imbalanced hormones in skin aging include excess blood glucose, which can damage or destroy collagen, and excessive free radicals, which can cause oxidative damage to the cell as well as hyperpigmentation resulting from changes in estrogen and progesterone 3. In men, , levels of hormones such as testosterone decrease slowly over time, so that by their late forties to early fifties, men can experience hyperpigmentation, thinning skin, uneven skin texture, and reduced skin firmness. Men may not notice that the area of skin around the jawline begins to sag, as wall as the area around the mouth, which is the result of loss of elasticity and underlying fat. May also experience a noticeable increase in puffiness around the cheeks and eyes.

Treatments for Dehydrated Skin

1. Important to the health of the skin to maintain the natural moisturizing factor and the natural acid mantle. 2. Dehydrated skin is prone to fine lines and wrinkles. It will appear thin and may appear fine in texture but is actually coarse to the touch 3. If client's skin seems to be dehydrated from factors that require medical attention (such as diet, lack of fluids, or medication), esthetician should recommend client seek the advice of their physician or dermatologist 4. Superficial dehydration will always lead to superficial lines on the skin's surface which eventually will turn into deeper wrinkles. Early anti-aging skin care will also greatly benefit

Extraction Training

1. In treating acne or blemished skin, the most important step is the effective cleansing and removal of blemishes. 2. Training and caution are needed before performing extractions. 3. Skin must be exfoliated and warmed before extractions are performed. Imperative to wear gloves during extractions and then change the gloves before performing the rest of the facial to prevent the spread of the infection 4. Protective extraction procedures are necessary to safely extract oil and debris from the follicles

Exceptional Skills

1. Knowledge of skin histology, skin analysis, and skin care products is essential for an esthetician to make informed decisions for a client. 2. Knowledge of contraindication, technological advances, and facial equipment is important for the safety of your client. 3. Massage techniques and your touch, pressure, and flow in the facial are valuable parts of your skills

Be diligent, organized, and skillful

1. Maintain neat and clean conditions in the facial work area 2. Arrange supplies in an orderly fashion 3. Keep implements in closed container when not in use. 4. Follow systematic procedures 5. Measure or use premeasured products for consistency and best results. 6. Apply and remove products neatly, and avoid getting them in the eyes, mouth, and nostrils. 7. Do not let water or products drip down the client's neck or in the eyes or ears.

Poor Diet

1. Many examples oh how bad food choices affect the skin. Dairy products may contain a hormone called IGF-1 that causes inflammation. Cheese, milk, and other dairy products may also increase the amount of oil that your sebaceous glands secrete. Excess oil is likely to clog pores and lead to acne. Dairy makes it harder for dead skin cells to clear out, which allows oils to collect and become inflamed. 2. Sugar increases blood sugar levels, which spurs insulin (a hormone that helps the body store and use glucose) and IGF-1 production. High amount of sugar found in candy, soda, and other sweet treats not only produces a lot of inflammation, but it also reacts with your skin cells causing dryness, decreased color, and premature wrinkles. 3. Caffeine is a diuretic, that is, it causes water loss and dehydration

Exfoliation methods include mechanical exfoliants, chemical exfoliants, and electrotherapy

1. Mechanical exfoliation: is the use of the rotary brush or microdermabrasion. When applied to the skin, this will gently remove dead skin cells and aid in a deeper cleansing. Granular or manual exfoliation is the use of a granular product, such as honey and jojoba beads or rice bran wax, to help remove the dead skin and debris by manipulation with the fingertips. 2. Chemical exfoliation: such as an enzyme and alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), beta hydroxy acids (BHA), azelaic acid, or kojic acid can be chosen based on the level of accumulation of dead skin cells and skin sensitivity. Desincrustation solution can be applied to loosen sebum accumulations in the hair follicles, making extractions easier. The solution softens, the sebaceous material (oil, dirt, debris) around the edges of the pores or follicle openings Note: Chemical exfoliants are used to lessen the appearance of wrinkles and skin discoloration. Always apply sun protection with SPF 30 after any chemical exfoliation procedure, and educate your client on post-treatment. Client's must wear SPF 30 sunscreen every day following usage of AHA

Sensitive and Sensitized Skin or Rosacea

1. Our skin has a remarkable multifunctional capacity to not only maintain our internal environment but to interact with environmental stimuli such as microbes, chemicals, and other physical elements 2. In addition to redness (erythema), edema (swelling), inflammation, and dryness that is characteristic of dermatitis, sensitive skin also experience a cascade of free radical activity that causes skin-destructive enzymes to form. These enzymes attack the skin's integrity, leading to premature aging in the form of wrinkles and loss of elasticity 3. Sensitive skin can be a biologic condition that readily reacts to a variety of factors such as specific chemicals, airborne debris, and/or certain skin care ingredients, resulting in skin that often appears blotch, broken out, or excessively dry. Dry patches and redness are often present with this type of skin. 4. Sensitized skin can result from overaggressive exfoliation, or from exposure to aggressive environmental factors such as cold, wind, low humidity, and air pollution. Skin may become highly sensitive, and needs to be treated as sensitive skin until it returns to its normal state. Avoid inflammatory ingredients until skin has returned to its normal state. irritants and sensitizing ingredients can be essential oils, exfoliants, fragrances, color agents, and preservatives

Home Care for Acne

1. Proper home care can usually help keep acne under control. Suggestions are given to the client specific to their needs. Important for client to follow the recommended home care routine outlined. Treatments must be accompanied by real commitment from the client to maintain home care regimen 2. Important to ask clients not to pick at blemishes. Explain that the skin is delicate, and performing self-extractions will cause the infection to go deeper, possible spread more rapidly, and perhaps cause permanent scarring. Cannot treat infected skin, client will need to first see dermatologist to medically treat infection 3. Home care will include a cleanser, an exfoliant, a mask, a toner, a light weight hydrator, and full-specturm sun protection cream a. Make sure recommended ingredients are not irritating or contraindicated b. A foaming or gel cleanser with an exfoliant (AHA, salicylic acid, or benzoyl peroxide) is the best choice. Use an astringent with alcohol to prevent infection c. Apply a light, hydrating, oil-free moisturizer and sunscreen for balance and protection d. A clay mask is recommended twice per week. A mask with camphor and sulfur also works well for oily skin e. Other products may include hydrating, soothing mask to balance the drying products

Inform the client

1. Provide a skin analysis and educational consultation 2. Explain the benefits of the products and service you offer, and answer any questions the client may have.

Assist the client on the facial bed

1. Show client how to get on bed safely and where to put head 2. Assist client in getting comfortable

Toners

1. Some estheticians use a toner between facial steps to remove any makeup or product residue. Toners finish the cleansing process by removing any residue from the cleanser left on the skin and help restore the skin's pH balance. 2. Astringent formulas can help reduce the appearance of the pores, while toners and tonics can help to tone the appearance of the skin. Different formulas can help skin problems such as dehydration and acne

Stress

1. Stress response leads to the secretion of stress hormones (adrenaline, cortisol, and norepinephrine) into the bloodstream to bring about specific physiological changes. Hyperstimulus effect can impair normal cellular renewal cycles of skin as well. 2. Dermal mast cells (a type of white blood cell) become more reactive, which may lead to the release of a large number of proinflammatory mediators that cause inflammation in your body, resulting in redness of the skin

Initial Consultation and Analysis

1. The initial consultation and skin analysis determines the product and procedures to be used and gives time to discuss recommended treatment and begin to discuss client's home care needs 2. Review the client's completed initial consultation form; information should include important details about the client, including their name, age (optional), occupation, info on at home skin care program, medications, medical conditions, diet, and lifestyle habits.

Estheticians should study and have a thorough understanding of facial treatments because:

1. This is a foundation for all skin care services. You must be able to provide services that are safe and beneficial for your clients. 2. Providing education and consultation on how the skin works, along with the effects of environmental, dietary, aging, and lifestyle choices, are parts of a facial that establish a partnership between the client and the esthetician. 3. Facial treatments focus on creating an ongoing program to help reduce the appearance of skin concerns such as oiliness or fine lines and wrinkles, while also engaging the client in a daily maintenance program with long-term benefits to achieve well-balanced skin throughout their life.

Treatments for Sensitive and Sensitized Skin or Rosacea

1. To lessen the appearance of irritation, a gentle cleanser is the best type of cleanser. Detergent-based cleansers can strip the skin's lipids and barrier protection 2. Cold towels are vasoconstricting, which means they constrict capillaries and blood flow 3. An enzyme peel formulated for sensitive skin gently exfoliates the skin 4. A soothing cream or alginate gel mask is great for calming and toning down the appearance of redness. Calamine and calcium carbonate powder mixed with aloe or fresh yogurt are also excellent for sensitive skin. 5. Freeze-dried collagen masks are also excellent for redness or sensitive skin 6. Lipids such as olive oil extracts and seaweed help to create a moisture barrier on the surface of the skin 7. Use a serum and moisturizer with hyaluronic acid or squalene to help soothe the symptoms of sensitive skin 8. Silver ball or cold globes may be used to calm blood flow and reduce redness. They provide a gentle massage with controlled pressure to help both massage skin and apply product

Mature Skin Treatments

1. Use procedures similar to those designed for dry skin, adapting the ingredients to include ones that help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles 2. Extended massage with a moisturizing serum and cream. 3. Peptide, collagen, and hydrating masks are all beneficial 4. A thermal mask will force-feed nutrients into the skin and help to soften the appearance of the skin, diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles 5. Firming products can be effective in visibly tightening the appearance of the skin 6. AHA treatments and products can help exfoliate the skin, creating a more luminescent complexion 7. Advanced treatments such as light therapy, iontophoresis, and galvanic and microcurrent are effective tools for mature skin

Acne Treatment Steps

1. Wash hands and put on gloves 2. Perform deep cleansing 3. Analyze the skin 4. Steam and apply serum 5. Proceed with desincrustation 6. Perform extractions 7. Apply astringent/toner 8. Apply a clay-based mask for deep cleansing. Remove with towels (7-10 min) 9. Apply a soothing mask. Remove with wet cotton (10 min) 10. Apply moisturizer 11. Perform galvanic or high-frequency treatment (3-5 min). Can be done right after extractions 12. Finish with post-treatment consultation a. break bad habits such as picking and squeezing the skin b. Overcleansing can be detrimental to acne-prone skin. It can further irritate the skin, stripping essential moisture and causing inflammation and additional risk of infection c. Maintain a health diet. Research has found that dairy and fermented or yeast based foods can exacerbate acne conditions. Includes aged cheeses, highly processed milk, wine, beer, champagne, and mushrooms. Skincare experts recommend probiotics to counteract unhealthy bacteria living in the stomach lining and the resulting inflammation that can increase acne flare-ups d. Avoid sunbathing, and not just because of the damaging UV light. Once considered part acne treatment program, UV light can initially dry up excess sebum and reduce pustules, but can lead to a cascade of reactions that increase oil production and sebum buildup on the skin

Create a Treatment Plan

1. You need to formulate clear and precise plan of action 2. Create treatment plan to show your client that you are educated and prepared to treat the concerns they may have

Facials offer two benefits at same time

1. regular treatments result in noticeable improvements in the skin's texture and appearance 2. offers a relaxing experience Note: Once considered luxuries, regular facials and skin care maintenance are now regarded as necessities by many for skin health as well as stress reduction

The Express Facial

Also know as mini-facial. Main difference between express and basic facial are the time and number of steps and products. Express may take from 15-30 minutes and does not include all the steps of a full 60-90 minute facial. Omitted steps may include steaming, massage, or extractions. Cleansing and masks are the most important elements because the produce the most visible results in 30 minutes. May also focus only on one area of the face such as eye contour area or provide a quick exfoliation and hydration.

Pseudofolliculitis

Also known as razor bumps; resembles folliculitis without the pus or infection. Exfoliation is necessary to help keep the follicles open. A foaming cleanser will help a man's beard area

In-Depth Skin Analysis

Analyze the skin after cleansing. Accurate skin analysis is the most crucial step in recommending the most effective professional treatments possible. Complete a thorough analysis with a magnifying lamp, a Wood's lamp, or an electronic imaging system after cleansing

Mature or Aging Skin

Anti-aging treatments are important. We age the moment we are born. The speed at which age leaves its signs on our face is influenced not only through (chronological) time, but by genetic encoding and environmental effects. One part is genetic, part of this is caused by UV radiation

Cleansing

Avoid over rubbing or overstimulating the skin and thoroughly, but efficiently, complete the cleansing

Remove Eye and Lip Makeup

Before starting the cleansing procedure, the client's eye and lip color can be removed, some client's may want to keep eye makeup only appropriate only if express treatment. Full facial all make up should be removed.

Treatment Masks

Can draw out impurities, clear up blemishes and tighten and tone skin and also hydrate, calm, or rejuvenate the skin Depending on their function, masks are applied at different times during a treatment - at the beginning, middle, or end. Drawing impurities out of the skin, may be beneficial to apply the mask before using steam and doing extractions. Calming hydrating mask, applied at the end of the facial to calm the skin and leave it hydrated.

Folliculitis barbae

Caused by improper shaving. Where the hair grows slightly under the skin and is trapped thee, causing a bacterial infection. Treatment goal is to alleviate the irritation,dry up and disinfect the pustules, and desenitize the area. A soothing gel mask is probably most comfortable product to use.

Impeccable Customer Service and Proper Communication Skills

Client-relation skills are an important element of being an esthetician. Knowing how to connect and communicate effectively with clients will determine the success of an esthetician.

Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)

Dehydration of the epidermis. The deeper tissues of the skin comprise large cells loaded with moisture, with a moisture differential between and lower layer of 80 percent and the upper layers of 15 percent. Osmosis: Moisture moves from the lower layers to the upper layers which is called transepidermal water loss The surface of the skin naturally contains lipids and sebum that create a natural moisturizing factor (NMF). When the stratum corneum is intact and healthy, it serves as an effective barrier to inhibit evaporation. Cells tightly packed together cannot get water through them, but cells loosely packed and flaking, moisture can easily evaporate NMF (natural moisturizing factor) has the ability to bind moisture into the skin. When the NMF is washed off of the skin with soaps and other alkalis the cells dry and crack producing dry skin.

Dehydrated Skin

Dehydration of the surface is one of the most common skin problems. Major cause is evaporation and loss of sebum from the surface of the skin due to the use of harsh, drying soaps, and alkalis as well as through drier winter months, heat, and changes in climate. Client's skin my have enough oil, but still feel dry and lack due to lack of water in the skin

Products and Equipment for Acne Care

Desincrustation, steam, and extractions are all part of an oily and problem skin facial. AHA and BHA exfoliation are also effective. Recommended for acne: 1. Beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) - these products are found naturally in willow bark extract and are natural keratolytic agents, meaning they are able to dissolve keratin, improving the look and the feel of the skin. Ingredient differs from alpha hydroxy acid in that it is more soluble in oil than water. Means that once the water from the product you are applying evaporates, salicylic acid will seek out oil, in this case sebum, and help to cleanse it further from the skin 2. Sulfur masks - these are effective products that exfoliate skin and dry blemishes (check for sulfur allergies) 3. AHA (glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric acids) - these products are used in different percentages to help dissolve deadskin cells tokeep the skin surface exfoliated. Exfoliation also softens acne impactions. 4. Vitamin A or retinol - both retinol and retinyl palmitate are forms of vitamin A. topical vitamin benefits the skin by helping to reduce flaking and restore the appearance of skin suppleness. formulations in spa/salon should never exceed 30 percent retinol and should never be lower than 3.5 percent. 5. Benzoyl peroxide - ingredient releases oxygen that kills bacteria as well as helps exfoliate skin 6. Kojic acid - an ingredient derived from mushrooms that helps to brighten the appearance of the skin 7. Spot blemish treatments - these products include ingredients such as beta hydroxyl acid, tea tree oil, and benzoyl peroxide that are applied just on blemishes after cleansing 8. Increased vitamin C - oral vitamin has antioxidant value and healing effects

Desincrustation With a Galvanic Machine

Desincrustation: is the process used to soften and emulsify sebum such as comedones (blackheads) in the follicles

Drape and Adjust for Comfort

Drape client's hair and adjusting the pillow, bolster, and linens

Elasticity of the Skin

Elasticity is the skin tissue's ability to return to its normal resting length after a stressor has been removed. Firming ingredients and treatments are beneficial for skin's elasticity. Firming ingredients and treatments are beneficial for the skin's elasticity

Emulsifier

Emulsions are created by an emulsifier, an ingredient that brings two incompatible ingredients, such as oil and water together into one homogenous, uniform blend. Can also hydrate and balance the oil-water moisture content of the skin

Acne Treatment

Excessive oily and problem skin is one of the leading reasons clients seek out professional help. While estheticians do not diagnose acne, they must be aware of the skin condition and know how to properly provide a facial. The esthetician can outline an acne treatment plan to balance the skin. Treatments are focused on deep cleansing and extractions. Clients need to be instructed to never pick at their acne pimples. Should also look for indications of acne excoriee, a condition stemming from habitual, nervous picking of the acne pimples that leads to permanent scarring. In order to partner with client on proper care of their skin condition, instruct them on the histology of acne within the skin.

Exfoliation Product or Mask

Exfoliation can be achieved by using products such as AHA, BHA, manual scubs, or enzyme peels, or you can use the brush machine to remove dead skin cells that make the skin feel rough and clog the follicles. Exfoliation makes the skin smoother, helps product penetration by unblocking the surface, and promotes stimulation, which increases the cell turnover rate.

Other External Factors

External factors can increase the appearance of aging in the skin. 1. Improper or insufficient skin care 2. Medications, physiological disease, poor health, and psychological (emotional) problems 3. Extreme weight loss can result in loss of muscle tone and lined and sagging skin, which in turn gives the skin an "aged" appearance 4. Lifestyle choices such as smoking, and the misuse of alcoholic beverages.

Extractions and/or Deep Pore Cleansing

Extraction: The technique of manually removing comedones from follicles. Cleaning out the comedones allows the follicles to contract back to their natural size if skin elasticity is good. Manual extraction is often the only way to expel comedones and clean out the follicles. It may be necessary to gently open papules and pustules with a lancet to facilitate easier removal and encourage faster healing

Sun Protection Products

Final step of facial. Full-spectrum sunscreen protects the skin from both UVA and UVB rays. Application is especially necessary after us of any AHA, BHA, or glycolic peel.

Extraction Methods

Four methods to use for extractions: forefingers wrapped with gauze, cotton swabs; comedone extractors, and lancets. For the first three methods, press gently around the lesion 1. Manual comedone removal - gauze wrapped around gloved fingers, dampened with astringent - is useful for the majority of extractions 2. Comedone extractors are metal tools used for open comedones and sebaceous filaments 3. Cotton swabs are smaller than fingertips and are especially useful around the nose area 4. Lancelets are for the removal of milia or pustules. Note: cysts and nodules must be treated by a dermatologist To achieve optimum success when performing extractions, you must put pressure on the skin surrounding the follicular wall so that you can extract the impaction with the least trauma to the surrounding tissue. Understanding the angle of the various follicles in the different locations on the skin will enable you to perform extractions easily and effectively

How to Consult Clients on Home Care

Home care is most important factor in a successful skin care program. Key word is program. Clients' participation is essential to achieve results. A program consists of long-range plan involving home care, salon treatments, and client education.

Treatments for Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is a condition that affects many people. Sun exposure, medication, and chemical reactions cause dark pigmentation areas on the skin that clients often want to diminsh. 1. Ingredients that can help brighten the appearance of the skin including kojic acid, alpha arbutin, glycolic acid, mulberry, licorice root, azaleic acid, bearberry, and citrus such as lemon work to help reduce the appearance of dark spots 2. Ingredients can be used in conjunction with exfoliating treatments using AHA, BHA, and other types of exfoliators 3. Harsh skin-bleaching agents such as hydroquinone (which is banned in several countries) may damage the skin and are controversal 4. Remember that overexfoliating can cause damage and hyperpigmentation worse-or conversely, cause hypopigmentation. Hypopigmenation results from reducing the melanin to the extent that lighter skin patches are now evident.

Facial

Is a professional service designed to improve the appearance of the facial skin. Typically includes deep cleansing such as extractions, hydration, massage, mask application or mild peels, possible use of skin treatment machines, and finally the application of serums, moisturizer, and sunscreen.

Dry Skin

Is usually the result of underactive sebaceous glands that produce sebum, which softens the skin, creating a natural moisturizing protective barrier. The skin appears coarse, tight, dull in color, and often with visible lines and wrinkles. Overexposure to sun, wind, harsh soaps, poor diet, lack of fluid intake, medication, environmental factors, and aging

The Art of Recommendation

Know your client. Start by suggesting two basic products such as a cleanser and moisturizer, depending on their main concerns. Can always add new products such as an exfoliator or eye cream to their regimen on their next visit. Focus on providing a product that will deliver results based on concerns. If you do not coerce them into taking home more products than they want your client will trust your expertise and return for another treatment

Massage

Massage promotes physiological relaxation, stimulates blood circulation, helps muscle tone, cleanses skin of impurities, softens sebum, helps slough off dead skin cells, helps relieve muscle pain, and provides a sense of well-being

Treatments for Aging and Mature Skin

Mature client's skin can be improved but the natural aging process cannot be reversed. Treatments can make the skin look and feel better. Prevention and healthy habits are key to beautiful skin at any age

Traits of Men's Skin

Men often have larger pores and more active sebaceous glands. Their skin tends to be characterized by excess oil and numerous blackheads. Male skin can often become dehydrated from harsh soaps and shampoos, as well as from frequent hot showers. Skin can both be excessively oily and have surface dryness. Need products and treatments that are hydrating but also offer deep pore cleansing and pore refining.

Treatment for Milia (closed comedones)

Milia are small epidermal cysts and are often referred to as tiny whiteheads. Milia usually occur aound the eyes, upper surface of the cheeks and forehead. Are keratinized sebum trapped under the skin surface, and although it looks like it can be extracted easily, may need help of lancet to get the milia out.

Men's Skin Care Products

Most unisex product lines will work as long as the packaging and fragrance are not overly feminine. Men typically have larger sebaceous gland and oilier skin. Be sure products are basic and the routines are simple. Do not want highly fragranced, feminine products, lotions need to be light, be without fragrance, be highly absorbent, and have a matte finish. Most men do not like greasy feeling of products. Would rather have a moisturizer they can use day and night, or one that already contains full-specturm sunscreen 1. Tubes and pumps that are easy to open are more male-friendly 2. His home care regimen should begin with only two products: a cleanser and hydrating lotion. If he wants three, add sunscreen 3. As grows accustomed to regimen and sees favorable results, he will most likely add to his regimen by purchasing a toner, eye cream, and a mask 4. Educate on sun protection and skin-cancer facts, even if he chooses not to purchase sunscreen 5. Can suggest clients shave in a downward direction - in the direction of the hair growth pattern - because it is less irritating 6. Once accustomed to receiving treatments and using products, client will be more likely to use an eye cream if taught how

Treatments for Oily Skin

Oily to combination skin is caused by overactive sebaceous glands and is thicker in texture. Skin has enlarged pores that may be filled sebum buildup from the environment as well as from the use of comedogenic makeup and other products. Comedones and whiteheads are present. The skin is sallow in appearance and is more prone to blemishes but is less prone to wrinkles and fine lines because the oil acts as a lubricant and a barrier, helping to keep moisture within the skin from evaporating

Meeting and Greeting Clients

One of the most important communications you will have with a client occurs the first time you meet

Ongoing Education

Ongoing education on technological advances and facial equipment is important 1. Take classes at a skin care academy or participate in an online webinar on skin care education. 2. Stay informed. Subscribe to online news resources to learn about current events; watch interesting, informative television; and read books on a bestseller list. 3. Make a commitment to yourself to attend at least one esthetics class or conference every year - this will make a difference in your potential career success. 4. Getting degrees at the associate, bachelor, master, and even doctorate levels offers additional options for continuing education.

Extraction Techniques

Practicing proper extraction methodology is one of the most important skills an esthetician must learn. 1. Proper infection control is essential when performing extractions, and the process must be correctly executed before, during, and after each treatment. 2. A sterilizer or autoclave completely kills all microorganisms - including bacteria, viruses, fungi, and bacterial spores - with highly pressurized steam 3. All reusable implements should be placed in the autoclave, use only disposable implements and dispose of these after use so there is no risk of cross-contamination 4. high frequency machine is useful and unique tool for acne-prone skin, helping prevent secondary lesions and decreasing the appearance of inflammation.

Perform an Acne Treatment Procedure

Products you will need: Comedone extractor, cotton, cotton squares, cotton swabs, eye pads, fresh linens, trash can (with closing lid), gauze, gloves, hand cream, lancet (where permissible by state law), make up remover, mixing bowl, robe for the client, scissors, sharps container, sink or basin of water, spatula, unscented tissues

UV Exposure

Repeated exposure to ultraviolet sun can cause premature aging of the skin, and artificial UV sources can affect clients in stages throughout their life 1. Group 1 - Classified as mild. Wrinkles do not form during this stage. Clients see mild pigment changes and minimal wrinkles 2. Group 2 - Classified as moderate. Clients may present with age spots and early signs of parallel smile lines, and they may feel the need to wear foundation to cover facial changes 3. Group 3 - Classified as advanced. Clients see obvious signs of discoloration, visible capillaries, and visible keratosis, and they may feel the need to wear heavier foundation. 4. Group 4 - Classified as severe. Clients may see yello-gray skin color and wrinkles throughout

Mastering Retail Sales Techniques

Retailing and client consultations are another part of the job that requires proper training.

Moisturizers

Seal in moisture and help reinforce the barrier layer of the skin. Are emulsions that can be cream, oil, or gel based.

Serums, Eye Treatments, and Lip Treatments

Serums are concentrated ingredients used for specific corrective treatments. Serums and ampoules are applied with fingertips under a mask or moisturizer. Also used with facial machines in a variety of treatments Eye and lip creams are usually thicker and applied with fingertips or cotton swabs

Describe Acne Facials

Skin with acne has many of the same characteristics as oily skin but hormones, stress, and other biological factors have caused the formation of acne pustules. The first signs of acne are usually seen during puberty when there is an increase in androgen hormones, which stimulate the amount of oil produced by the sebaceous glands. Blackheads, white-heads, pimples, and pustules are present and easily infected with bacteria.

Steam

Steam promotes more effective cleansing, as warmth softens the follicles. Should not be used longer than 10 minutes because it can cause overheating and redness, and may cause irritation. Steam can exacerbate existing conditions so never use steam on clients with sensitive skin, rosacea, or inflamed acne.

Variations of Basic Facial

Steps of the facial procedure will vary depending on the focus of the facial.Sometimes steam or massage is omitted. Sometimes the massages is the last step after the mask, and sometimes two masks are used. Massage is performed before extractions in basic facial to avoid stimulation that would cause further inflammation. Using massage after extractions could pose possible secondary lesions and clients may experience breakouts. Massage can be done after application of mask as some massage creams and oils used in the industry could lock out further product penetration and benefits from active ingredients

Key Elements of Client Interaction

The first step toward a professional approach is your skill in client interaction.

Contraindications for Sensitive or Sensitized Skin, or Rosacea

These skin types should avoid: 1. Strong exfoliants such as coarse manual materials, microdermabrasion, aggressive AHA or BHA peels, vacuum suction, the brush machine, and any ingredients with a pH of 3.5 or lower 2. Steam during treatment 3. Stimulating machines or manual massage, a cooling massage device can be used in place of manual facial massage; which can be manipulated to be gentler on the skin 4. Drying products with a pH of 8 or higher 5. Excessive heat such as hot water, steam, or towels; lukewarm water should be used during facials

Treatments for Dry Skin

Treatment goals: hydrate and nourish the skin as well as remove accumulated dead, dry skin cells. 1. Serums and creams can balance and protect skin with the appropriate products and in the proper amounts 2. Use a gentle enzyme peel, a gentle alpha hydroxy acid peel, or a light microdermabrasion treatment to exfoliate the skin 3. For a mask, peptides, hyaluronic acid or emollient, and natural ingredients such as seaweed or a thermal mask can be used. Be sure to inquire about allergies 4. Massage and the galvanic machine can be used to assist in the application of a hydrating serum 5. LED can be used 6. A moisturizing cream with an oil base, antioxidants, and a full-spectrum sunscreen finish the treatment

Warm Towels

Warm towels can be used in place of steam or for product removal during treatments. If using hot towels, always check the towel temperature on the inside of your wrist before applying. Keep towels away from the nostrils.

Lancet

a small, sharp, pointed needle used to make a tiny opening in the epidermis to exposed the milia. Always use a new sterile sealed lancet. Improper lancet use may scar the skin, or may cause infection

Obtain Signed Consent

client will read and sign the consent form, acknowledging that they understand what is being done to them as well as the risks involved in the treatment

Folliculitis

inflammation of the hair follicles. A problem for many men, especially if they have very coarse or curly beard hair. Is an infection characterized by inflammation and pus.