OCE chapter 10

T/F: Erosional coats are characterized by features of accumulated sand/pebble/rock that are eroded elsewhere and deposited on shore where longshore currents slow

False

T/F: Longshore drift is a current that transports sand in a circular motion in the water column

False

T/F: The nearshore is equivalent to the intertidal zone

False

Which US coastline has the greatest average loss due to erosion?

Gulf Coast

37, 45, 46, 47

STUDY THEM SHITS

T/F: Barrier islands are offshore islands made of sand deposited parallel to the shoreline creating a protective barrier for the coastline

True

T/F: Elevated wave-cut platforms in Southern California are evidence that this coastal area is a emerging shoreline

True

T/F: Groins are constructed for the purpose of maintaining or widening beaches that are losing sand

True

What feature of barrier island provides evidence for a rise in sea level? a peat outcrop dunes a lagoon a low salt marsh

a peat outcrop

All of the following are characteristic of erosional shores except: sea arches. sea caves. wave-cut cliffs. deltas. headlands.

deltas

features of a depositional coast may include spits, barrier islands, tombolos and __________ rocky headlands sea stacks wave-cut benches marine terraces deltas

deltas

large deposits of sediment at the mouth of rivers are called: (26)

deltas

The rate of wave erosion along a coastline is determined by all the following except the: tidal range. amount of open ocean exposure. coastal bedrock composition. wave height. direction of the longshore current.

direction of the longshore current

Emerging shorelines might have all the following characteristics except: shell debris found well above current shoreline. marine terraces. exposed wave-cut bench. drowned beaches. cliffs.

drowned beaches

If one were to walk from the ocean landward across a barrier island complex, in which order would one encounter the following environments? beach, dune, barrier flat, high marsh, low marsh low marsh, high marsh, barrier flat, dune, beach dune, barrier flat, beach, high marsh, low marsh barrier flat, dune, beach, low marsh, high marsh beach, dune, barrier flat, low marsh, high marsh

beach, dune, barrier flat, high marsh, low marsh

The correct order of beach features as you move from the coast toward offshore is: 1. longshore trough, longshore bar, berm, beach face 2. beach face, berm, longshore bar, longshore trough 3. berm, beach face, longshore trough, longshore bar 4. longshore bar, longshore trough, beach face, berm 5. beach face, longshore trough, longshore bar, berm

berm, beach face, longshore trough, longshore bar

offshore: 1. colonized by grasses; very productive 2. flows parallel to shore within surf zone 3. exposed at low tide and covered at high tide 4. moves water from swash zone out to sea beyond the low-tide breakers

beyond the low-tide breakers

All of the following are characteristics of depositional shores except: bay-mouth bars. spits. barrier islands. tombolos. marine terraces.

marine terraces

Submerging shorelines might have all the following characteristics except: drowned river delta. drowned beaches. river mouths found below sea level. submerged dune topography. marine terraces.

marine terraces

What would happen to sea level along the Antarctic coastline if the ice cap covering the continent melted? Sea level would decrease due to thermal contraction. Sea level would decrease due to isostatic adjustment. decrease in sea level due to a eustatic change Sea level would increase due to isostatic adjustment.

sea level would decrease due to isostatic adjustment

Isostatic movement of a coastline might occur due to: the removal of a large glacier that rested in that area. changes in the rate of seafloor spreading. additional seawater. uplift related to earthquake activity. underwater landslides.

the removal of a large glacier that rested in that area

How does the tide cycle affect erosion along a sea coast? Sea coasts experience erosion only during low tides. The tide cycle causes erosion to occur at different elevations along a sea coast. Sea coast erosion is greatest during summer and winter. Sea coasts experience erosion only during high tides. Sea coast erosion is greatest during spring and autumn.

the tide cycle causes erosion to occur at different elevations along a sea coast

T/F: the backshore is found between the normal high tide mark and the coastline

true

MA: Of the following statements about coastal regions and landforms, which is/are true? -Most of the beach face is exposed during the lowest tides and covered during the highest tides. -The area of a beach above the shoreline is often called the recreational beach. -The beach face is the wet, sloping surface in the foreshore area. -The berm is affected by storm waves but is typically dry and relatively flat. -The berm is located in the backshore area. -The nearshore is exposed during low tide each day.

-Most of the beach face is exposed during the lowest tides and covered during the highest tides -The area of the beach above the shoreline is often called the recreational beach -The beach face is the wet, sloping surface in the foreshore area -The berm is affected by storm waves but is typically dry and relatively flat -The berm is located in the back shore area

Of the following statements about beach replenishment, which is/are true? -Installing groins along the shore is a form of beach nourishment. -Beach replenishment is expensive because of the huge volume of sand that is necessary to replenish a beach. -Beach nourishment involves dumping sand on the beach to replace lost sand. -Beach replenishment is also known as beach nourishment. -Beach replenishment involves relocating structures such as houses to safer sites.

-beach replenishment is expensive because of the huge volume of sand that is necessary to replenish a beach -beach nourishment involves dumping sand on the beach to replace lost sand -beach replenishment is also known as beach nourishment

MA: Of the following statements about longshore transport (longshore drift), which is/are true? -Longshore transport moves sediment in a zigzag path. -Longshore transport moves just a small amount of sediment along the shore during a year. -Longshore transport can change direction depending on which direction the waves approach the beach. -Longshore transport moves sediment upcoast or downcoast along the beach. -Longshore transport describes the movement of water in the surf zone. -Longshore transport and rip currents are the same thing.

-longshore transport moves sediment in a zigzag path -longshore transport can change direction depending on which direction the waves approach the beach -longshore transport moves sediment upcoast or downcoast along the beach

In general, what do beaches look like at the end of winter? 1. Beaches tend to have a narrow berm and a prominent longshore bar. 2. Beaches tend to have wide berm and a prominent longshore bar. 3. Beaches tend to have a wide berm and no longshore bar. 4. Beaches tend to have a wide berm and no longshore bar.

1. Beaches tend to have a narrow berm and prominent longshore bar

In general, what do beaches look like at the end of the summer? 1. Beaches tend to have a wide berm and no longshore bar. 2. Beaches tend to have a narrow berm and no longshore bar. 3. Beaches tend to have a narrow berm and a prominent longshore bar. 4. Beaches tend to have wide berm and a prominent longshore bar.

1. Beaches tend to have a wide berm and no longshore bar

how would a beach b e affected if a wide berm were protected from erosion during winter months? 1. The wintertime beach would look similar to the summertime beach. 2. The wintertime beach would look similar to any other wintertime beach. 3. The wintertime beach would look similar to the summertime beach, but with a narrow berm. 4. The wintertime beach would look similar to the summertime beach, but with a longshore bar.

1. The wintertime beach would look similar to the summertime beach

how are winter beaches different from summer beaches? 1. Winter waves are short and high, whereas summer waves are long and shallower. 2. Winter waves are long and high, whereas summer waves are short and shallower. 3. Winter waves are long and shallower, whereas summer waves are short and high. 4. Winter waves are short and shallower, whereas summer waves are long and high.

1. Winter waves are short and high, whereas summer waves are long and shallower

What is the longshore current? 1. water forced by waves to move along the shore 2. water forced by waves to move away from the shore 3. water forced by longshore drift to move along the shore 4. water forced by longshore drift to move away from the shore

1. water forced by the waves to move along the shore

In the long term, what do beach drift and longshore current do? 1. Move sediment perpendicular to the shoreline 2. Move sediment parallel to the shoreline 3. Move sediment up to the shoreline 4. Move sediment away from the shoreline

2. Move sediment parallel to the shoreline

Which way would sediment move in NO beach drift existed? 1. parallel to shore 2. at an angle to shore 3. away from shore 4. perpendicular to shore

2. at a angle from the shore

Which of the following would you expect to find on a summertime beach? 1. prominent longshore bars 2. a rocky terrain along the beach 3. a wide, sandy berm 4. a narrow berm 5. larger, high-energy waves

3. a wide, sandy berm

You own a beachfront lot that has been experiencing erosion due to beach starvation. Your neighbor to the north (up-current) has the same problem, so he gets permission to build a groin just north of your property line. Your response would probably be to __________. 1. do nothing, as the situation will stabilize with time and the sand will come back 2. armor your shoreline with a full-length seawall 3. get permission to build a groin of your own near the southern boundary of your property 4. sue your neighbor for sand deprivation 5. have sand trucked in to rebuild your beach

3. get permission to build a groin of your own near the southern boundary of your property

All the following are alternatives to hard stabilization except : 1. beach replenishment. 2. relocation. 3. seawalls. 4. beach renourishment. 5. construction restrictions.

3. seawalls

Winter beaches: 1. have smaller offshore bars during the winter. 2. are wider than summer beaches due to low-energy waves during the winter. 3. contain less sediment than summer beaches due to low-energy waves during the winter. 4. are narrower than summer beaches due to high-energy waves during the winter. 5. contain more sediment than summer beaches due to high-energy waves during the winter.

4. are narrower than summer beaches due to high energy waves during the winter

Which of the following pairs does not belong together? 1. submerging shorelines: submerged dune topography 2. depositional shores: sand deposits and offshore barrier islands 3. Atlantic-type coast: thick accumulations of sediment 4. emerging shorelines: drowned beaches 5. Pacific-type coast: earthquake activity

4. emerging shorelines:drowned beaches

foreshore: 1. colonized by grasses; very productive 2. beyond the low-tide breakers 3. flows parallel to shore within surf zone 4. exposed at low tide and covered at high tide 5. moves water from swash zone out to sea

4. exposed at low tide and covered at high tide

The "river of sand" described in our text refers to ________ 1. sand flowing down submarine canyons 2. the movement of sand off the beach to the longshore bar 3. sand carried by rivers from higher elevations to the ocean 4. longshore transport between the beach and the breaker line 5. the resemblance of backshore areas to dry streambeds

4. longshore transport between the beach and the breaker line

When seafloor spreading rates increase: 1. subduction increases. 2. there is no change in sea level. 3. sea level falls. 4. there is a rise in sea level. 5. new continental crust forms.

4. there is a rise in sea level

MA: Of the following conditions, which help(s) form a well-developed delta? Low rates of erosion High rates of deposition High sediment load A large-volume river Small wave energy

ALL

Which of the following is designed to prevent or retard shoreline erosion? 1. beach nourishment 2. groin 3. seawall 4. All of these are used to try to prevent or retard shoreline erosion. 5. Both the groin and seawall prevent or retard shoreline erosion.

All

How is a cave created in a cliff face along a sea coast? Rivers emptying into the ocean deposit sediment along the sea coast, which then carves caves in the sea cliff. Underground caves expand until they reach the sea coast. The spray of seawater results in salt accumulation on the cliff face, which dissolves rock material, resulting in caverns. Wave action erodes areas of weakness in rock in a sea cliff. Irregular deposition of sediment along the shoreline sometimes results in hollow areas where waves carry off material, rather than allowing accumulation.

Wave action erodes areas of weakness in rock in a sea cliff

A beach is: 1. only that area above the high-tide mark. 2. a deposit of the shore area. constant in space and time. 3. always comprised of non-biologic components. 4. always backed by sand dunes.

a deposit of the shore area

How long does it take berms to become narrow and rocky after summer has passed?

a few weeks

How does a sea stack form? A stack forms when a relatively flat area is left behind by erosion waves against the base of a sea cliff. A stack is a pile of boulders eroded from a sea wall that accumulate in a pile because of wave action. A stack is formed by the accumulation of sand, initially as a sand bar, which grows until it forms a stack. A stack is an uplifted area along, but not connected to, a sea cliff. A stack forms when a sea arch collapses, leaving a vertical column of rock offshore.

a stack forms when a sea arch collapses and leaves a vertical column of rock offshore

What condition would create a weak longshore current? 1. a set of large swells 2. a wave set approaching parallel to the shore head-on 3. waves breaking on a headland 4. a steep beach face 5. a high-frequency wave set

a wave set approaching parallel to the shore head-on

MA: Of the following characteristics or features, which is/are associated with erosional shores? Tectonic activity A coastline with lots of rugged headlands A large volume of sediment input Rocky coasts Wave-cut benches and marine terraces

all except a large volume of sediment input

MA: Of the following characteristics or features, which is/are associated with depositional shores? A location near a large delta Active tectonic uplift High sediment supply A large sand spit Bay-mouth bars The formation of barrier islands

all except active tectonic uplift

MA: Of the following features or conditions, which is/are related to emerging shorelines? 1. Marine terraces 2. Submerged river valleys 3. Lowering of sea level 4. U.S. West Coast 5. Tectonic uplift

all except submerged river valleys

How is in arch formed along a sea coast? Weather-eroded arches located inland are inundated by sinking coastal areas. Coastal deposition of rock material by wave action creates a headland, which is then eroded, forming an arch. An arch forms when a tunnel is eroded between separate sand dunes along a cliff face, connecting them. An arch forms when a sea cave breaks through a headland or where two sea caves coalesce as they erode back due to wave action. Wave erosion cuts away both sides of a sand bar, resulting in an arch.

an arch forms when a sea cave breaks through a headland or where two sea caves coalesce as they erode due to wave action

The section of the coast that extends from normal high tide level to the highest elevation on land is affected by storm waves is called the: 1. offshore. 2. shoreline. 3. backshore. 4. nearshore. 5. foreshore.

backshore