Oceanography Exam #2

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Salinity of typical seawater is...

3.5% or 35 ppt

In the Southern Hemisphere, a low pressure system spins what directions?

Anticyclonic, left

In the Northern Hemisphere, a high pressure system spins what directions?

Anticyclonic, right

Hurricanes spin __________ in the Northern Hemisphere

Counterclockwise

Concentrated solar radiation at low latitudes because of:

High angle of incidence, small footprint, more direct path

Constructive interference

In-phase waves with about the same wavelengths, wave heights add together

Water freezes its volume __________ by __ %.

Increases, 9%

Cyclones

Indian Ocean

Water interface cause what type of waves?

Internal waves

Two types of covalent bonding

Ionic and Covalent bonds

Hurricane season in Atlantic basin officially defined from _____ to _____________

June 1st to November 30th

Tropical cyclones

Large rotating masses of low pressure characterized by strong winds and torrential rain

Subtropical gyres

Large, circular-moving loops of water driven by the major wind belts. Rotate clockwise in the Northern Hemisphere and counterclockwise in the Southern Hemisphere.

La Niña (ENSO Cool Phase)

Larger pressure difference across Pacific, intensifies the trade winds, cool water spreads westward toward western Pacific, upwelling intensifies along South America because of intensified winds, heavier rains

Hurricanes gain there energy from what?

Latent heat of condensation

Tropical cyclones develop through a combination of what?

Latent heat of condensation, Coriolis Effect, low pressure, and strong winds

Solar radiation more diffuse at high latitudes because of:

Low angle of incidence, large footprint, must pass through more atmosphere

Mixed surface water properties:

Low density; well-mixed by waves, tides and currents; surface to ~300m

How are waves generated?

Mass movement into water, shifts in the ocean floor, tide, human causes

Rogue Waves

Massive, spontaneous, solitary ocean waves - but rare; difficult to forecast

What is chemical analysis?

Measure amount of chlorine

Radar altimeters

Measure currents on satellites can be used to make dynamic topography maps that show speed and direction of water currents

What does a salinometer do?

Measures water's electrical conductivity (the ability of a substance to transmit an electric current)

Name the three major wind belts in the Northern Hemisphere:

NE trade wind, Westerlies, Polar Easterlies

Principal of Constant Proportions

No matter what the salinity the fraction of the salt that is chloride remains the same. Chloride is 55.04% and salt is 30.61%. The same is true for the other components.

List the 5 subtropical gyres:

North Atlantic gyre, South Atlantic Gyre, North Pacific Gyre, South Pacific Gyre, Indian Ocean Gyre.

Hurricanes

North and South America

Surface currents

Occur within and above the pycnocline to a depth of 1 km (10% ocean volume). Develop as a result of friction between the ocean and the wind blowing over its surface

Air - ocean interface cause what type of waves?

Ocean waves

Marine effect

Oceans moderate temperature changes from day to night and during different seasons

Sort these reservoirs from largest to smallest percentage of the water on Earth: Water vapor in atmosphere, oceans, streams and lakes and rivers, ground water and soil moisture, frozen glaciers and ice caps

Oceans, Frozen in Glaciers and Ice Caps, Groundwater and Soil Moisture, Streams, lakes & rivers, Water Vapor in the Atmosphere

Destructive interference

Out-of-phase waves with about the same wavelengths, waves can cancel each other out

What decreases salinity?

Precipitation, melting icebergs, runoff, melting seaice

Upper water properties:

Pycnocline, thermocline, and halocline if at lower latitudes, Barrier to vertical mixing and migration of sealife, ~300m to 1000m

Wave steepness

Ratio of wave height (H) to wavelength (L)

Convection cells

Rising and sinking air moving in a circular motion.

How do tropical cyclones form?

Rising warm air causing thunderstorms, an area of very low pressure and the storms rotate accelerating up forming the tropical cyclone

Name the three major wind belts in the Southern Hemisphere

SE trade wind, Westerlies, Polar easterlies

How would the wind belts be different if there was no Coriolis effect?

The wind would not deflect at all and rather be a straight flow from high to low pressure

Doppler flow meters

Transmit low frequency sound into the water and the shift in frequency of sound backscattered from particles in the water column can be used to determine current direct and velocity.

Waves transport what?

Transport energy

Ocean currents transport what?

Transport water

Mixed interference

Two wave groups with different wavelengths and different wave heights

In the northern hemisphere, if the wind blows from south to the north along the east coast of continent, along the coast there will be...

Upwelling

Tilt Current Meter (TCM)

Uses angle of stick to determine how fast current is moving

Downwelling

Vertical movement of water to deeper parts of the ocean. Usually associated with low primary productivity. Important as carries oxygen from surface water to the deep.

Upwelling

Vertical movement of water to the surface. Water usually cold, rich in nutrients. Consequently get high primary productivity.

Pacific warm pool

Water warms as moves flows in the equatorial region, creating a warm wedge of water on western side of the Pacific called the Pacific Warm Pool.

Typhoons

Western North Pacific

Tropical Storm

Winds 61-120 km/hour (38-74 miles/hour)

Hurricane or tropical cyclone

Winds above 120 km/hour (74 miles/hour)

Tropical Depression

Winds less than 61 km/hour (38 miles/hour)

Pycnocline

a layer of water in which there is a rapid change of density with depth

Thermocline

abrupt change of temperature with depth

Surface currents

affected by the movement of air, particularly wind belts, over the surface of the ocean. Run near surface and are horizontal currents. Wind driven.

Horse latitudes

are regions of high pressure and gentle winds at about 30 degrees north and south latitude

Describe orbital progressive waves

around and around; waves on ocean surface; combination of longitudinal and transverse waves

Describe longitudinal progressive waves

back and forth; compress and decompress as they travel, like a coiled spring

Thermohaline Circulation

density differences that cause deep circulation caused by temperature and salinity

Halocline

depth where there is a rapid change in salinity

Ekman spiral

describes the speed and direction of flow of surface waters at various depths in relation to wind blowing over the surface

The Water Molecule

dipolar (H is +, O is -), polarity, bent structure

Diverge in bays = energy is _______ in bays

dissipated

Subtropical highs

high pressure zones descending air at latitudes of 30º north and south

Polar highs

high pressure zones of descending air at the poles.

Air flows from _____ to ______ pressure

high to low pressure, leads to the formation of circulation cells

Crest

highest points of a wave

Wave length (L)

horizontal distance from crest to crest or trough to trough

Deep currents

temperature and salinity changes at surface cause high-density water to form, which sinks. Dense water spreads beneath the surface, causing deep currents. These currents have vertical motion. Density driven.

Evaporation latitudes are closest to:

the equator

Land breeze

the flow of air from land to a body of water

Salinity is the ratio of...

the mass of dissolved substances to the mass of the water sample

Polar front

The boundary at which air flowing away from the polar regions collides with the warmer air from the lower latitudes, 60 degrees latitudes

Coriolis effect

The effect of Earth's rotation on the direction of winds and currents.

Sea breeze

The flow of cooler air from over an ocean or lake toward land

As a deep-water wave becomes a shallow-water wave:

- Wave speed decreases - Wavelength decreases - Wave height increases - Wave steepness (height/wavelength) increases - When steepness > 1/7, wave breaks

Tropic of Cancer

23.5 degrees N; Receives greatest amount of annual solar radiation

Tropic of Capricorn

23.5 degrees S; Receives greatest amount of annual solar radiation

Hadley Cell

0 to 30 degrees. Heat rises at equator, carried away and sinks at 30 degrees.

Pure water density is....

1 g/cm^3

Each subtropical gyre is composed of four main currents that flow into one another, which are:

1. Equatorial 2. Western Boundary 3. Northern or Southern Boundary 4. Eastern Boundary

Seawater density is...

1.028 g/cm3

Three types of progressive waves:

1.Longitudinal 2.Transverse 3.Orbital

Wave base

1/2 L

If wave steepness exceeds ____ the wave will break

1/7

Ferrel Cell

30 to 60 degrees. Air at 30 degrees stable so moves towards the poles towards unstable air, or subpolar lows

Where are the westerlies?

30-60 degrees latitude

Open-ocean salinity ranges from what?

33-38 ppt

greatest density of water occurs at what temperature?

4 degrees celsius, explains why ice floats

U.S. Navy Hydrographic Office published a report in early 1900s which said that the theoretical maximum height for a wind driven wave is _____.

60 feet

Polar Cell

60 to 90 degrees. Air rises at 60 degrees and moves towards the poles, smallest and weakest

Where are the polar easterlies?

60-90 degrees

Over __ chemical elements can be found in seawater

80

Deep ocean currents affect about __% of the world's ocean water.

90%

How do you change salinity?

Add/remove water, add/remove dissolved substances

Internal Waves

Associated with pycnocline, larger than surface waves (can be 100+ m), caused by tides, turbidity currents, winds, ships

Where is there no Coriolis Effect?

At the equator

Doldrums or Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ)

At the equator, where the trade winds come together causing air to rise

Highest Coriolis effect occurs where?

At the poles

Low angle of incidence

At the poles, more reflection of incoming light

High angle of incidence

At the tropics, less reflection of incoming light

Residence time

Average length of time a substance remains dissolved in seawater

High pressure, sinking air causes what weather?

Clear fair, dry weather (South America)

Hurricanes spin __________ in the Southern Hemisphere

Clockwise

Low pressure, rising air causes what weather?

Cloudy, rain (Indonesia/Australia)

In what area will salinity vary more widely?

Coastal regions

Deep water properties:

Cold high density water involved in deep current movement, below ~1000m

Interference Patterns

Collision of two or more wave systems, interfering with one another

El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO)

Combined oceanic and atmospheric effects that periodically alternate the Pacific between warm and cold phases. Affects ocean temperatures, circulation, weather patterns, winds. Can have dire consequences on marine life. Around Christmas time.

What factors determines the direction the wind belts blow?

Coriolis Effect, rotation, High to Low pressure change

In the Southern Hemisphere, a high pressure system spins what directions?

Cyclonic, left

In the Northern Hemisphere, a low pressure system spins what directions?

Cyclonic, right

Equatorial upwelling

Divergence of surface currents along the geographical equator and upwelling of cold, nutrient rich water. Common in Pacific and creates areas of high productivity and rich fishing grounds.

What causes seasons?

Earth's tilt of 23.5 degrees; effects amount of solar energy received at different locations and times

Hurricanes move _____ to _____ as driven by trade winds

East to West

Ekman transport is...

Ekman transport is 90º to the right of the wind direction in the Northern Hemisphere and 90º to the left in the Southern Hemisphere.

Waves are _____ in motion.

Energy

______ is transmitted by waves?

Energy

Hurricanes do not occur where?

Equator

How can you measure salinity?

Evaporation, salinometer, chemical analysis,

Equatorial currents

Flow westward, parallel to the equator.

Factors effect the idealized pattern of atmospheric circulation

Seasons, lower heat capacity of continental rock compared to the ocean, uneven distribution of continents and ocean across the earth's surface

Progressive waves

Simple uniform-motion waves that travel without breaking

High latitudes

Surface and deep waters cold year-round. No thermocline, isothermal (same heat)

Low latitudes

Surface waters warmed by high Sun angle, warm surface mixed layer to 300m because of mixing mechanisms like currents, waves, tides

El Niño (ENSO Warm Phase)

Switches east-west weather pattern in Pacific, so now South America gets rain, and West Pacific is dry. Changes water temperature, warm water reduces the impact of upwelling, so primary productivity diminishes, increases eastern Pacific hurricanes

What has strongest control of density changes?

Temperature

Winds blowing out of the north towards the south in the Southern hemisphere will appear to...

be reflected towards the east

Refraction

bending of each wave crest as it approaches the shore

Northern or Southern Boundary Currents

between 30 and 60º latitude the prevailing westerlies direct water in an easterly direction across an ocean basin

Where are the trade winds?

between equator and 30 degrees

Covalent Bonding

bonds formed from interaction of two or more atoms

Subtropical convergence

buildup of water in the middle of the gyre from Ekman transport

Steam burns us because of...

condensation

Eastern boundary currents

currents are turned by the Coriolis effect and land barriers towards the equator; carry cool water from high latitudes towards equator

As depth increases, current speed _______

decreases

As temperature increases, seawater density _________

decreases

Water vapor ______ the density of air as water vapor has a lower density than dry air

decreases

Density increases as temperature _________

decreases (ex:warm air rises and cold air sinks)

If water depth is greater than wave base (>½L), wave is a ________________.

deep water wave

Currents are driven by....

density and wind

Highest salinity at _______

equator

Highest temperature at _______

equator

Lowest density at the _______

equator

What increases salinity?

evaporation, formation of sea ice

Waves at the surface of the ocean...

have aspects of both longitudinal and transverse waves, water molecules move in an orbital path, occur between the boundary of two fluids of different densities

high salinity = ________ density

high

Descending columns of cool air produce _____ pressure

high pressure

Sinking cool, air creates an area of _________

high pressure

As pressure increases, seawater density _________

increases

As salinity increases, seawater density ________

increases

Continental effect

land areas have greater range of temperatures from day to night and during different seasons

Coriolis effect deflects wind to the _____ in Southern Hemisphere

left

Water is most dense while it is in what state?

liquid

Ions with ____ residence time are in high concentration in seawater

long (chloride and sodium)

Cloudy weather and lots of precipitation under _____ pressure

low pressure

Rising columns of low density, warm air produce ____ pressure

low pressure

Rising warm, air creates an area of ____________

low pressure

The equator is ______ pressure

low pressure

Equatorial low

low pressure zones due to rising air

Subpolar low

low pressure zones due to rising air at latitudes of 60º north and south

Oceans and atmosphere transfer excess heat from ____ to _____ latitudes

low; high

Troposphere

lower portion of the atmosphere, which extends to an altitude of about 12 km; all weather produced here

Seawater freezes at a _______ temperature (_____) than freshwater (0°C)

lower, -1.8 degrees celsius

Trough

lowest point of a wave

Converge on headlands = ______ energy released, better for surfing

more

Warm air holds ____ water vapor than cold air

more

Western boundary currents

occur when an equatorial currents meets the land on the western side of an ocean basin, carry warm water from the equator to higher latitudes, Coriolis effect deflects currents away from equator

Albedo

percent of incident light that is reflected back in space, average albedo of Earth is ~30%

Brackish

produced in areas where freshwater (from rivers and rainfall) and seawater mix

Hypersaline

produced in areas with high evaporation rates and limited open-ocean circulation (Ex:Dead Sea, Red Sea, Great Salt Lake City)

Seawater has similar properties to...

pure water

Coriolis effect deflects wind to the _____ in Northern Hemisphere

right

Warm air _____

rises

Ions with ____ residence time are in low concentration in seawater

short (calcium)

Thermal contraction

shrinkage of most substances caused by cold temperatures, occurs from 0-4 degrees celsius, density decreases

Cool air _____

sinks

The density of seawater is controlled by...

temperature, salinity, and pressure

Frequency (f)

the number of wave crests passing a fixed position per unit time; 1/T; inverse of wave period

Precipitation latitudes are closest to:

the poles

Global Thermostatic Effects

thermostatic effects of water moderate changes in temperature and drive Earth's climate

Wave period (T)

time it takes for one complete wave (i.e. one wavelength) to pass a fixed position.

Ionic bonds form between sodium and chloride atoms as a result of the...

transfer of electrons between atoms

Covalent bonding

type of bond in which 2 or more nonmetal atoms share electrons

Ionic bonding

type of bond in which a metal and nonmetal transfer electrons (produces ions)

Describe transverse progressive waves

up and down; side-to-side waves; transmit through solids, not liquids

If direction of the winds reverse then may swap from a situation of...

upwelling to downwelling or vice versa.

Sweat cools us because of...

vaporization

Wave height (H)

vertical distance between crest and trough

Shoaling water

water becoming gradually more shallow

The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to...

wavelength

Steady state

when addition rate = removal rate

Currents usually follow same pattern as the _______

wind belts

Surface ocean currents are driven primarily by ________ and modified by ________.

wind; the Coriolis effect and land

Surf zone

zone of breaking waves near shore


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