Professional Cooking - Chapter 8 "Stocks and Sauces" Part 1

What is the recommended time to simmer Chicken Bones when making a Stock?

-3 to 4 hours

What is the recommended time to simmer Fish Bones when making a Stock?

-30 to 45 minutes

What is the recommended time to simmer Veal Bones when making a Stock?

-6 to 8 hours

What is the recommended time to simmer Beef Bones when making a Stock?

-8 to 10 hours

How is a Fish Fumet made?

-A fish fumet is made by first sweating the bones and mirepoix in fat. -White wine is then added to deglaze. -Finally water is added and the fumet finished in the normal manner.

Broth

-A flavorful liquid obtained from the simmering of meats and/or vegetables.

Preparing Fish Stocks:

-A standard fish stock is made the same way as a white stock. -This type of stock is useful for soups and similar seafood preparations.

Why are Acids used in Stock-making?

-Acids help dissolve connective tissues. -To extract flavor and body from bones, as well as contributing their own flavor.

How would you deglaze a pan after roasting bones for a brown stock?

-Adding water and stirring over heat until all the brown drippings are dissolved or loosened. -Add to the stockpot.

Bouquet Garni

-An assortment of fresh herbs and other aromatic ingredients tied in a bundle with string. -A basic bouquet garni contains pieces of leek and celery, thyme sprigs, bay leaf, and parsley stems. The ingredients can be changed to suit different recipes.

__________ Vegetables are the second most important contributors of flavor to stocks.

-Aromatic -Except in the case of Vegetable Stocks, in which they are the most important.

When making a Vegetable stock, what would you do if you want a more neutral, all-purpose stock?

-Avoid strong-flavored vegetables. -Use more balanced proportions of ingredients.

Why is Meat rarely used in stock-making anymore?

-Because of its cost. -The exception would be chicken hearts and gizzards, which are often used in chicken stocks.

Why is skimming so important for a clear stock?

-Because the scum, which is fat and coagulated protein, will cloud the stock if it's broken up and mixed back into the liquid. -Skim the scum that comes to the surface, using a skimmer or perforated spoon.

Why shouldn't a White Stock come to a boil?

-Boiling makes the stock cloudy because it breaks solids into tiny particles that get mixed into the liquid.

_____ are the major ingredient of stocks (except water, of course).

-Bones -Most of the flavor and body of stocks are derived from the bones of beef, veal, chicken, fish, and, occasionally, lamb, pork, ham, and game. -Vegetable stocks, an exception, draw their flavor entirely from vegetables.

Why is it important to keep water over the bones when making a White Stock?

-Bones cooked while exposed to air will turn dark and thus darken or discolor the stock. -Also, they don't release flavor into the water if the water doesn't touch them.

Ingredient Proportions for 1 Gallon of Fish Stock

-Bones: 10−12 lb -Mirepoix, white: 1 lb -Water: 1 gal -White wine: 24 fl oz -Sachet: 1

Ingredient Proportions for 1 Gallon for White Stock (Beef and Veal)

-Bones: 8 lb -Mirepoix (standard or white): 1 lb -Water: 5−6 qt -Sachet: 1

Ingredient Proportions for 1 Gallon of White Stock (Chicken)

-Bones: 8 lb -Mirepoix (standard or white): 1 lb -Water: 5−6 qt -Sachet: 1

Ingredient Proportions for 1 Gallon of Brown Stock

-Bones: 8 lb -Mirepoix: 1 lb -Tomato product: 8 oz -Water: 5−6 qt -Sachet: 1

What ratio can you use to help remember the basic proportions of a stock?

-Bones: 80% -Mirepoix: 10% -Water: 100%

Some vegetables, especially strong-flavored ones, are best avoided when making a vegetable stock. What are some examples?

-Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, and artichokes can overwhelm a stock with a strong flavor or odor. -Dark green leafy vegetables, especially spinach, develop an unpleasant flavor when cooked a long time. -Beets turn a stock red.

How do mirepoix ingredients contribute important flavor to stock without making it taste like any particular vegetable?

-By have a fairly neutral taste.

Celery Root (Celeriac)

-Can be substituted for the stalk celery for an even whiter White Mirepoix.

Why aren't Carrots used in a White Mirepoix?

-Carrots are not used in white mirepoix because they give too much color. -Parsnips may be substituted for the carrots, or else the carrots may simply be omitted and the quantities of the other ingredients increased.

_________ is the best source of gelatin in bones.

-Cartilage -Younger animals have lots of cartilage in their skeletons. -As they become older, this hardens into solid bone, which is harder to dissolve into stocks.

How should you cut Mirepoix?

-Chop the vegetables coarsely into pieces of relatively uniform size. -As mirepoix is rarely served, it is not usually necessary to cut it neatly.

Stock

-Clear, thin (unthickened) liquid flavored by soluble substances extracted from meat, poultry, and fish, and their bones, and from vegetables and seasonings.

Mirepoix (meer-pwah)

-Combination of onions, carrots, and celery. -It is a basic flavoring preparation used in all areas of cooking—not only for flavoring stocks but also for sauces, soups, meats, poultry, fish, and vegetables.

How long should you cook a stock in order to extract it's flavor?

-Cook long enough to extract flavors but not so long that flavors are lost. -Best cooking time is 30−45 minutes.

Most modern chefs do not simmer stocks as long as earlier generations of chefs did. Why is that?

-Cooking extracts more gelatin, but gelatin isn't the only factor in a good stock. -Flavors begin to break down or degenerate over time. -The challenge is to obtain full flavor while still getting a good portion of gelatin into the stock.

How would you prepare an Oignon Brûlé?

-Cut a large onion in half crosswise and place it, cut side down, on a flattop range or in a heavy skillet. -Cook until the cut surface is dark brown. -Add to the stock.

Why is wine occasionally used for stocks, especially fish stocks?

-Flavor and Acidity -Its flavor contribution is probably more important than its acidity.

What do tomatoes contribute to a brown stock?

-Flavor and some acid. -They are not used for white stocks because they would give an undesirable color.

Oignon Brûlé (awn yohn broo lay)

-French for "burnt onion" -Sometimes added to brown stock to give it color as well as flavor.

When certain connective tissues (called collagen) break down, they form _________.

-Gelatin -This gives body to a stock, an important feature of its quality. -A well-made stock thickens or even solidifies when chilled.

The classical mirepoix of decades ago contained a wider variety of ingredients, sometimes including?

-Ham or bacon, leeks and other vegetables, and one or more fresh herbs. -The modern version is considerably simplified.

Sachet d'épices (sa-shay day peace) French for "spice bag"

-Herbs and spices tied in a cheesecloth bag, often called simply sachet for short. -The sachet is tied by a string to the handle of the stockpot so it can be removed easily at any time.

How does the size of a mirepoix depend on how long the mirepoix will cook?

-If it will cook a long time, as for beef stock, cut the vegetables into large pieces (1−2 inches). -Cutting into small pieces is necessary for releasing flavors in a short time, as when the mirepoix will be used for fish stock.

Why is salt usually not added when making stocks?

-If salt were added, it might become too concentrated when reduced, concentrated, and combined with other ingredients. -Some chefs salt stocks very lightly because they feel it aids in extracting flavor.

Why is cooling stock quickly and properly so important?

-Improperly cooled stock can spoil in 6−8 hours because it's a good breeding ground for bacteria that cause food-borne disease and spoilage.

Why do chefs usually prefer a Fumet over an ordinary fish stock for sauces?

-It's a more flavorful fish stock.

Which parts of an animal have a lot of cartilage and are valued in stock-making?

-Knuckle bones on Joints of major bones -Neck bones -Shankbones

When cost permits, it is a good idea to include _____ in the White Mirepoix in place of part of the onions.

-Leeks They give an excellent flavor.

Brown Stock

-Made from beef or veal bones that have been browned in an oven.

White Stock

-Made from beef or veal bones, or a combination of the two. -Chicken bones or even pork bones are sometimes added in small quantity.

Chicken Stock

-Made from chicken bones.

Fish Stock

-Made from fish bones and trimmings left over after filleting. -Bones from lean white fish give the best stock. -Fat fish are not normally used.

Why do chefs disagree on the importance of blanching?

-Many feel it is needed to produce clear white stocks. -Others feel blanching causes valuable flavors to be lost. -Fish bones, at any rate, are not blanched because of their short cooking time.

What is it that makes a stock cloudy

-Many proteins dissolve in cold water but solidify into small particles or into froth or scum when heated. -It's these particles that make a stock cloudy. -Much of the technique of stock-making involves avoiding cloudiness to produce a clear stock.

White Mirepoix (with parsnips)

-Onions: 4 oz -Leeks: 4 oz -Celery or celeriac: 4 oz -Parsnips: 4 oz

White Mirepoix (without parsnips)

-Onions: 6 oz -Leeks: 5 oz -Celery (or celeriac): 5 oz

White Mirepoix (Variation)

-Onions: 6 oz -Leeks: 5 oz -Celery (or celeriac): 5 oz -Mushroom trimmings: 2 oz

Standard Mirepoix

-Onions: 8 oz -Celery: 4 oz -Carrots: 4 oz

What did Escoffier use in the classic Bouquet Garni?

-Parsley -Thyme -Bay Leaf

What are the qualities of a good White Stock?

-Rich, full flavor, good body, clarity, and little or no color. -Chicken stocks may have a light yellow color.

How should you properly vent a stockpot?

-Run cold water into the sink, but not higher than the level of the stock, or the pot will become unsteady. -An overflow pipe keeps the water level right and allows for constant circulation of cold water.

Why is Chicken Stock usually made with a standard mirepoix?

-Since chicken bones impart a slight yellow color of their own, so a little more color from carrots is usually not harmful. -However, white mirepoix may be used, if desired.

When making a Stock, why add cold water to cover the bones before bringing to a simmer?

-Starting in cold water speeds extraction. -Starting in hot water delays it because many proteins are soluble in cold water but not in hot.

How would you prepare an Oignon Piqué?

-Stick a bay leaf to a whole, peeled onion with a whole clove. -Adding the bay leaf and clove attached to the onion makes removing them easier when cooking is finished.

Why is it important to stir a stockpot occasionally as it's cooling?

-Stirring the pot occasionally ensures that the stock cools evenly. -Hang a ladle in the pot so you can give it a quick stir whenever you pass the sink without actually taking extra time to do it.

How how will a stock keep if frozen?

-Stock can also be frozen and will keep for several months.

How how will a stock keep if refrigerated properly?

-Stock will keep 2−3 days if properly refrigerated.

How can you mellow the onion's flavor when making a stock?

-Sweating the vegetables in a small amount of oil before adding water, but this step can be omitted.

What's the difference between brown stocks and white stocks?

-The bones and mirepoix are browned for the brown stock. -Otherwise, the procedure is essentially the same.

What determines the kind of stock?

-The kinds of bones used.

Why shouldn't you wash or blanche bones before making a brown stock?

-The moisture would hinder browning.

Fumet

-The term often used for a flavorful fish stock, especially one made with wine.

Why should herbs and spices be used lightly when making stocks?

-They should never dominate a stock or have a pronounced flavor.

Why should you cut large bones into pieces about 3 inches long when making stock?

-This exposes more surface area and aids extraction. -Also, the bones are easier to handle.

Why should you cut bones to 3-4 inches when making a Stock?

-This exposes more surface area and helps extraction. -A meat saw is used to cut heavy veal and beef bones. -Fish and chicken bones don't need to be cut, but whole carcasses should be chopped for more convenient handling.

Oignon Piqué (awn yohn pee kay).

-This is used not so much for stocks but for soups and sauces.

Why must you rinse the bones in cold water before making a Stock? (Or if desired, chicken, veal, or beef bones may be blanched.)

-This removes some impurities that cloud the stock or, if the bones are old, give an off taste.

Why should you add a little cold water to a stock before skimming?

-This stops the cooking and brings more fat and impurities to the surface.

About how long does it take to brown bones sufficiently for a brown stock?

-This takes over 1 hour at 375°F or higher. -The bones must be well browned to color the stock sufficiently. -Some chefs prefer to oil the bones lightly before browning.

What are some seasonings that are commonly used for stocks (in varying quantities)?

-Thyme -Parsley stems -Bay leaves -Cloves, whole (optional) -Peppercorns -Garlic (optional)

What is the purpose of blanching bones when making stocks?

-To rid them of some of the impurities that cause cloudiness.

What is the objective when preparing stocks?

-To select the proper ingredients and then to extract the flavors we want. -In other words, to combine the correct ingredients with the correct procedure.

Venting

-To set the stockpot in a sink with blocks, a rack, or some other object under it. -It allows cold water to flow under the pot as well as around it.

When making brown stocks, be careful not to add too much ________, which can make the stock cloudy.

-Tomato

What's the best tomato product to brown with the mirepoix?

-Tomato paste, as it contains less water. -Tomato purée or canned tomatoes may also be used, but they are more likely to be added directly to the stockpot.

True or False: Butter can be used for stocks if it's not necessary to avoid all animal products.

-True

True or False: They are not used for white stocks because they would give an undesirable color.

-True

True or False: It's better to save trimmings and use them in a planned way than to throw them into the stock randomly.

-True -A stockpot is not a garbage disposal. -The final product is only as good as the ingredients and the care that go into it.

True or False: Scraps may be used in stocks if they are clean, wholesome, and appropriate to the stock being made.

-True -If done correctly, stock-making is a good way of utilizing trimmings that would otherwise be thrown out.

True or False: Many chefs prefer to use a standard mirepoix rather than white mirepoix for all stocks.

-True -In vegetable stocks, a variety of vegetables are used in addition to or in place of the traditional mirepoix.

True or False: Starchy vegetables, such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, and winter squash, make a stock cloudy.

-True -Use them only if clarity is not important.

When making a Vegetable stock, what would you do if you want a particular flavor to predominate?

-Use a larger quantity of that vegetable. -For example, if you want a broth tasting primarily of asparagus, use a large quantity of asparagus to make it, with smaller quantities of more neutral vegetables (like onion and celery) to round out the flavor.

What bones are used for brown stock?

-Veal and/or beef bones

What are the basic ingredients for a vegetable stock?

-Vegetables -Herbs and Spices -Water -Wine (sometimes)

Ratios of vegetables to water may vary considerably, but the following proportions are a good starting point:

-Vegetables: 4 lb -Water: 1 gal -Sachet: 1

When is a White Mirepoix used?

-When it is necessary to keep the stock as colorless as possible, especially for fish stock. -Mushroom trimmings may also be added.

How can the mirepoix be browned with the bones when making a Brown Stock?

-When the bones are half browned, add the mirepoix to the pan and continue roasting until bones and vegetables are browned. -Some chefs use this method because it eliminates some steps. -Others prefer to brown the mirepoix separately so it can be added to the stock later in the cooking time.

Occasionally, a broth is produced as a result of simmering meat or poultry. Can this both be used as a stock?

-Yes -An example is when fowl is cooked for dishes like creamed chicken. -The chicken is the main focus and the broth is just a byproduct.

Standards of Quality for Stocks:

1. Clarity 2. Color 3. Body 4. Aroma and Flavor

Procedure for Preparing a Brown Stock:

1. Cut the bones into pieces, 3−4 inches long, as for white stock. 2. Do not wash or blanch the bones. 3. Place the bones in a roasting pan in one layer and brown in a hot oven at 375°F or higher. 4. When the bones are well browned, remove them from the pan and place them in a stockpot. 5. Drain and reserve the fat from the roasting pan and then deglaze. 6. While the stock is getting started, place the mirepoix in the roasting pan with some of the reserved fat and brown the vegetables well in the oven. 7. Add the tomato product to the mirepoix. -Continue to brown until the tomato product turns a rusty brown color. 8. When the water in the stockpot comes to a simmer, skim and continue as for white stock. 9. Add the browned vegetables and the tomato product to the stockpot. -If desired, they may be held out until 2−3 hours before the end of the cooking time. 10. Simmer for the recommended length of time. 11. Skim the surface and strain off the stock through a china cap lined with several layers of cheesecloth. 12. Cool the stock as quickly as possible. 13. Evaluate the quality of the finished stock. 14. When cool, refrigerate the stock in covered containers.

Procedure for Preparing White Stocks

1. Cut the bones into pieces, 3−4 inches long. 2. Rinse the bones in cold water (If desired, chicken, veal, or beef bones may be blanched.). 3. Place the bones in a stockpot or steam-jacketed kettle and add cold water to cover. 4. Bring water to a boil, and then reduce to a simmer. 5. Add the chopped mirepoix and the herbs and spices. 6. Do not let the stock boil. Keep it at a low simmer. 7. Skim the surface as often as necessary during cooking. 8. Keep the water level above the bones. Add more water if the stock reduces below this level. 9. Simmer for the recommended length of time. 10. Skim the surface and strain off the stock through a china cap lined with several layers of cheesecloth. 11. Cool the stock as quickly as possible. 12. Evaluate the quality of the finished stock. 13. When cool, refrigerate the stock in covered containers.

Procedure for Blanching Bones

1. Rinse the bones in cold water: -This washes off blood and other impurities from the surface. -It is especially important if the bones are not strictly fresh. 2. Place the bones in a stockpot or steam-jacketed kettle and cover with cold water: -Impurities dissolve more readily in cold water. -Hot water retards extraction. 3. Bring the water to a boil: -As the water heats, impurities solidify (coagulate) and rise to the surface as scum. 4. Drain the bones and rinse them well: -The bones are now ready for the stockpot.

True or False: The bones of young animals, especially veal and chicken, are highest in blood and other impurities that cloud and discolor stocks.

True