Sewing Final- Quiz Questions
Where would you find an enclosed seam?
Both neckline and waistband
On a sleeve, which grain runs parallel to the floor?
Crosswise grain
directional stitching
Pet the cat: sew the direction that does not disturb the grain Neckline - towards center front; shoulders - away from center front; armscye - towards center of armscye; torso - towards waist
Which of the following is the preferred method of turning collar points to the right side?
Taking it to the iron and using a point presser
A clean finish is also called
Turned and stitched
Do all waistband, facings, or yoke, all skirts or pants need some sort of interfacing support?
Yes
Do seam allowances of fusible interfacing have to be trimmed off before application?
Yes
Does an alteration made to increase circumference at the hip need to carry through all the way to the hem?
Yes
Are both Clipping and Notching necessary on the style edge shape of the collar?
Yes, both
Do all patterns have ease figured into the final measurements?
yes
a good seam finish choice for medium to heavy weight fabrics
zigzag
The two most common thread patterns for sewing buttons with four holes are:
+ and =
How to prepare fabric for cutting
1. Preshrink 2. Find cross grain 3. Remove wrinkles 4. Fold selvages together and observe position of cross grain edges, if they match YAHOO, if they don't lightly pull on short ends or steam press Grains must be perpendicular to each other before cutting
How far from the raw edge should the staystitching be sewn?
1/2''
Which of the following is not a customary trimming width for grading seam allowances.
1/2'' (1/8" 1/4" 3/8" are customary)
The width of the laps (each lap separately) on a centered zipper is:
1/4"
How far from the edge should basting stitches be placed for the best gathers?
1/4", 1/2", and 3/4"
What is the seam allowance width when attaching sew-in interfacing
1/4''
Edgestitching is done how close to the fold?
1/8" or less
Regulation stitch length- spi and mm
10 to 14 spi, 1.4 to 2.4 mm
Reinforcement type 1:
1mm or 20-24 spi- for point edges
Ease stitching length
2.4-3mm or 8-10 spi
Reinforcement type 2:
2.4mm or 10-14 spi (regulation)- in order to do a second layer of stitching for back up
Diameter of a button is measured by going around the outside edge of the button. (T/F)
False
Make sure to put plenty of ease across the shoulder seam area so the arm can raise comfortably. (T/F)
False
Basting stitch length- spi and mm
6 to 8 spi or 3 to 4 mm
3 statements about hems
A hem is a finish on the raw edge at the bottom of a garment A hem adds weight and helps a garment hang properly Sew hems using a single strand of thread
Not counting the bar tacks at the ends of the buttonhole, how do you determine the length of a hole for a particular buttonhole?
Add the diameter and the height of the button
Basting and gathering- 3 truths
Basting stitch length depends on the weight of the fabric being gathered Typically, bobbin threads pull easier than needle threads It is okay to press a gathered seam allowance, but do not press gathers flat
names of machine parts and their functions
Bobbins: hold the thread that appears on the underside of a row of stitches Bobbin case: holds the bobbin and has the bobbin tension control Bobbin winder: holds bobbin when its being filled Feed dogs: pull the fabric through the machine Foot pedal: makes the machine go Hand wheel: rotates as the needle moves up and down Presser foot: holds fabric in place Presser foot lifter: raises and lowers presser foot, also turns upper thread tension Stitch plate: helps keep seam allowances even Thread take-up lever: pulls thread from spool through the tension control
Which is the best at controlling shape?
Darts
When preparing a sleeve for insertion into the garment, what type of stitching should you first put across the sleeve cap?
Ease stitching
Wovens, Non-wovens, and Knits are:
Fabrication methods
Which statement is true of facings:
Facings finish off a raw edge Facings can be found at the neck, arms, front or back Facings exactly match the raw edge of the fashion fabric piece to which they are sewn
Clipping
inside curves
What is the name of the stitching that sews the facing to the seam allowance to keep the facing from flipping out, the seam rolled under, and reinforces a seam that has been clipped?
Under stitching
How to produce the most attractive and even hem
Use a yardstick to measure the hem length from the floor up
Which way are darts pressed?
Vertical darts towards center and horizontal darts down
Which direction is the preferred way to have the warp yarns run on the body in the finished garment?
Vertically
Which of the following is the LEAST important factor to consider when choosing a zipper for a sewing project:
Weave of fabric (Important to consider: type and color of zipper and weight of fabric)
What is the shank?
What allows the button to sit on top of the buttonhole
grain straightness rules and how to determine
Grains must be perpendicular to each other before cutting Fold fabric; align selvages - check cross grain alignment; if not aligned, pull short ends or block fabric
Fusible interfacing requires four things:
Heat, moisture, pressure, and time
The presser foot:
Holds the fabric against the feed dogs
Buttonhole points
Horizontal: ⅛ from center front Length of buttonhole = diameter of button + height of button + 1/8"(unless you're using a Bernina then you don't add ⅛" apparently) Sew buttons every 3 inches up/down
Are interfacing for waistbands the cut the same width as the waistband
No
Can the bottom edge of sew-in interfacing can be left as a raw edge since it will be behind the facing?
No
Is Zipper length is the most important consideration when matching a zipper to a sewing project?
No
Is a centered zipper application is a good choice for a side seam zipper on a skirt?
No
Is ease stitching is best placed around the entire circumference of the armscye?
No
Should ease stitching be back stitched?
No
Should you always put a hook and eye at the top of a zipper at the neck edge?
No
Does a lapped zipper have a 3/8" lap on the right and a 1/8" lap on the left.?
No, its the opposite
How many rows of ease stitching should be sewn across the sleeve cap?
One or two
Which piece of pressing equipment would be most helpful when constructing a collar?
Point presser
What mark is usually found at the top of the sleeve cap to match the shoulder seam?
Precision mark circle
When pressing the armscye seam allowances after the sleeve has been inserted:
Press them closed then sew them together
Sewing machine part that controls the tension disc:
Presser foot lever
Which piece of pressing equipment would be most helpful in pressing darts?
Pressing ham
What do you do if an alteration makes the grainline no longer parallel with Center Front or Center Back?
Redraw a new grainline that IS parallel with center front or center back.
Two rows of stitching in an area of high stress is called what?
Reinforcement stitching
What type of stitching is used to strengthen a seam that will be clipped to the seamline or trimmed very close to a corner that will be turned?
Reinforcement stitching
For women's clothing, the buttonhole goes on the _________ front.
Right
Convertible, Shawl, and Notched collars are examples of which type of collar?
Rolled
After sewing one side of the snap to fabric, a good way to make sure the other side will line up is to:
Rub chalk or soap on the sewn down "ball" side and press it against the fabric to leave a mark Poke a pin through the hole of the ball and mark where the pin came through
What are the two main types of buttons?
Sew through and Shank
What seam allowance is sew-in interfacing attached to the collar?
Sew-in interfacing is attached to the upper (visible) collar with a ¼" seam allowance
The stitching on a shirttail hem is sewn where?
Sewn near the top edge
The pattern marking indicating the front of the sleeve is a:
Single notch
When using sew-in interfacing in a skirt that has a waist facing (not a waistband), sew the interfacing to the:
Skirt (NOT facing) at 1/4" seam allowance
Which do you sew first? The button or button hole?
The buttonhole- it matters!
When deciding which interfacing to use, what is important?
The color and weight of the fashion fabric The fabrication method used for the interfacing How the finished garment will be laundered
If you need more than one piece of fabric cut using a particular pattern piece, how would you know how many to cut?
The cutting layout and the pattern piece both have that information
Interfacing- 3 statements
The fashion fabric weight determines the interfacing weight Use of sew-in or fusible is often a personal preference It is a good idea to preshrink interfacing—even fusible
When attaching the waistband to the garment:
The garment will be eased into the waistband
Which of the following is true about the style edge of a collar?
The name of the collar is typically based on the shape of the style edge The style edge is "favored" to present a more professional look The style edge is usually an enclosed seam
How long should a waistband be cut?
The person's waist measurement plus seam allowances, ease, and underlap
"Widest to the World" means:
The seam allowance that falls nearest the garment exterior is left the widest
What is the purpose of sew-on snap on the waistband?
to keep the underlap out of the way, not to hold the waistband together
Which yarn is stronger/tighter in woven fabric?
warp
Is Backstitching is an important part of sewing a seam finish?
no
Notching
outside curves
To determine which cutting layout to use, you need to know:
size, view, fabric width
The slant stitch or "flat" hemming stitch is easy to do and produces a professional-looking hem. (T/F)
False
Peter Pan and Sailor's collars are examples of which type of collar?
Flat
Sew-in interfacing is sewn to which side?
Garment
What determines the length of a shank?
The thickness of the fabric
Which of the following is true about hooks and eyes:
The type of hook needed depends on the amount of stress received during wear The hook is placed 1/8 inch in from the edge for overlapping edges An eye made with matching thread can be used for areas of very little stress
Machine blind hems are used when?
They can be used on either a clean finished or serged edge
Why understitch?
To reinforce a seam that has been clipped To help "favor the edge"
Edgestitich
To stitch 1/8" or less from a finished edge is to:
Understitch
To stitch 1/8" or less from a seamline to attach facings to seam allowances is:
Hem
To turn under a raw edge, usually at the lower edge of a garment or sleeve.
After sewing the seam that attaches the waistband to the skirt:
Trim and Grade the seam allowances to reduce bulk
What does it mean to "grade" a seam allowance?
Trim to different widths
What edge shape needs to be notched to reduce bulk in seam allowances?
Outside curves
Which of the following is a basic pattern alteration rule?
Pattern must be flat when alterations are completed Matching edges must still match after altering Alter only the area in question
If you put elastic in a casing, how much wider than the elastic should the casing be cut to?
1/2" so there is room for the clean finish and wiggle room
The part on the sewing machine that pulls the thread off the spool:
Take-up lever
Amounts of 2 to 3 inches are basic wearing ease for which body parts?
Bust, hips, and biceps
What edge shape requires clipping to relax the seam allowance?
Inside curves
The felling or vertical stitch:
Takes less time than the slipstitch and is less durable
machine needle sizing scales and how to interpret
American machine needles come in standard sizes 8 - 19 European machine needles are sized from 60 - 120 Smaller needles have a smaller "number size" Choose needle size to match your fabric type
What is interfacing?
An underlaying fabric used for support, body, and reinforcement
Which of the following statements about sewing and trimming collar points is true?
Clip the corners of collar points, then taper the seam allowance towards the point Use short stitches at the collar point to reinforce the point for turning Fusible interfacing does not need to go to the extreme point of the collar
The first cut made into the pattern when altering for increased hip circumference is to:
Cut along the seam line at the side, not the waist
collars- which piece gets the interfacing
Interfacing is attached to the collar for blouses and dresses Interfacing is attached to the collar facing for jackets and coats; and in addition, the collar may be underlined
Which way does the flat part of the shank face when inserting needles on a sewing machine?
It faces away from you (the back)
3 truths about slipstitches
It requires a folded edge to hide the thread between stitches It is used on light- to medium-weight fabrics It is somewhat slow to do
When using a zipper foot:
Keep the needle between the zipper foot and the zipper
Which type of pleats go all in the same direction?
Knife pleats
Three textile fabrication methods
Knit, non-woven and woven
For men's clothing, the buttonhole goes on the _________ front.
Left
If a skirt or pants have a side seam opening, which side usually has the opening?
Left
The grainline on a waistband is usually:
Lengthwise around the waist for strength
When inserting a zipper into a waist or neck edge:
Line up the top of the zipper tape with the raw edge of the waist or neck opening
Pressing equipment
Sleeve roll: Used when pressing long narrow or cylindrical areas such as sleeves and pant legs Tailor's Ham: Used when pressing shaped or rounded areas such as curved seams and darts Pressing Mitt: Can put hand into pocket or slide mitt onto end of sleeve board, use like a ham Sleeve Board: Used when pressing long narrow or cylindrical areas such as sleeves and pant legs Point Presser with Clapper: Made of hard wood Use point to press open seams near corners like those on collars and cuffs Use flat bottom (clapper) to "hold" the steam and heat from the iron without adding additional heat- sets pressed areas - helps reduce bulk Press Cloth: Always used when applying fusible interfacing Always used when pressing synthetic fibers Always used when pressing creases into pant legs - done to avoid getting a shine on the face of the fabric Always used when pressing face of fabric
Mandarin, Military, and Clerical are examples of which type of collar?
Standing
Which of the following is a type of collar commonly found on clothing: (3 types)
Standing Flat Rolled
A row of directional stitching to keep the seamline from stretching out of shape during handling of fabric is called:
Staystitching
Attaching the facing side of the waistband to the inside of the skirt is done by:
Stitching "in the ditch" Edgestitching Hand stitching
