Shoe Terms

Brogue

A 'heavy' balmoral, or oxford-style shoe that flaunts ample 'pinking' and 'perforations' in order to accentuate the look of the shoe's seams. More decorative

Jelly

A clear or transparent rubber-like plastic used in soles and as a filler in heels to add cushioning.

Laces

A cord that is strung through eyelets or around hooks of a shoe in order to draw the shoe closed.

Shoe Tree

A device resembling the shape of a foot. It is used to preserve the shape of the shoe and to stop it from developing creases by placing in into the shoe.

Shoe Horn

A device used to allow a user to slip the foot into a shoe more easily. Most today are made from plastic and metal but those made of bulls' horn are still available in some areas.

Calfskin

A famously soft leather made (as the word suggests) from the skins of calves.

Elastic Gore

A flexible, elastic fabric that is sewn into the shoe's lining in order to provide a snug fit.

Haircalf

A kind of calfskin leather which maintains the calf hide's soft furry texture.

Boat shoe

A kind of casual shoe that can normally be slipped on and worn with or without socks. Boat shoes are typically made with non-slip soles (so as to avoid slipping on a wet boat deck) and they are often featured ornamental side-lacing's.

Nappa Leather (Nap or Napped)

A kind of leather that is noted for its softness and flexibility

Nubuck

A kind of leather with a slight 'nap' and otherwise smooth finish, which is achieved by 'bucking' (or sanding) the hide. Similar to a suede-like condition. Easily susceptible to stains even after stain protection treatments.

Crepe Sole

A kind of sole typically cast from rubber and made to resemble the texture of winkled crepe paper. These soles are almost exclusively seen on casual shoes.

Pump

A low-cut women's shoe usually found without fastenings and typically moderate in heel rise.

Brannock Device

A measurement instrument used to measure the width and size of a person's foot to ensure that shoes will fit correctly.

Aglet

A metal or plastic tag at the end of the shoelace. Aglet makes lacing easier and it protects the lace from unraveling. Historically, the aglet took a more ornamental form than it does today.

Cemented Construction

A method of shoe construction where the shoe's upper is cemented to the sole of the shoe to attach them. This method makes for a lighter, more flexible shoe.

Cuban Heel

A moderately high, straight-sided heel on a shoe or boot.

Toe Ridge

A molded ridge found along the top of the footbed in certain sandals.

Heel Counter

A piece of leather composing the hind part of the shoe used to strengthen the material encompassing the heel as well as to provide more support to the foot. AKA the backing behind your heel.

Rand

A piece of leather used to even-out the shoe's sole before attaching the heel.

Sipes

A razor-cut pattern in outsoles of shoes, specifically deck shoes. These help to disperse water and prevent slipping, much like the sipe on a car tire.

Arch

A section of the foot between the ball and the heel that is curved to allow for the support of the body with the least amount of weight. This term is also used for the area of insoles that pad this section of the foot.

Eyelet

A small (usually round) hole through which aglets are threaded. They are often reinforced with a metal, plastic or rubber grommets.

Tap

A small partial sole normally made of metal or leather that attaches to the existing toe or heel of a shoe. These are usually used because of the rhythmic clicking sounds they make which are favored by tapdancers.

Counter

A stiff piece of material (typically leather) used to maintain a shoe's shape, and which is inserted between the shoe's lining and upper materials.

Ankle Strap

A strap that is attached at the back of the shoe and goes around the ankle to provide heel retention; usually fastens with a buckle or by tying.

Tongue

A strip of leather or other material found under the laces of a shoe. The tongue is sewn into the vamp and extends to the throat of the shoe.

Foxing

A strip of rubber usually found on sneakers made from canvas. It joins the upper part of the shoe to the sole.

Derby

A term sometimes used to describe shoes that features "Blucher" style lacing.

Brogueing

A term that refers to the perforations or small punches that can be used to decorate a shoe. All those holes on a wingtip? That's brogueing.

Footbed

A term used to denote a shoe's [insole].

Bespoke

A truly bespoke shoe is made on last that has been custom-made for an individual, rather than one of the standard lasts that used for 99.999% of the shoes in the world.

Stilettos

A type of high heel featuring a narrow, often rounded heel. Also known as a "spike heel."

Aniline Leather

A type of leather that has been treated with aniline dye, a non-toxic dye that allows the natural signatures of the leather to be seen as well as produces a soft supple texture.

Suede

A type of leather with napped surface, but may also indicate fabrics of a similar nap or brushed finished. The word originates from the saying "gloves of Sweden," translated from "gants de Suede" in French.

Sheepskin

A type of material used to make shoes and boots made from the leather of sheephide. Comes with or without the wool attached.

Back Seam

A vertically stitched seam running down the center-back of the shoes.

French Binding

A way of detailing a shoe's 'topline' by sewing, or binding, an additional strip of material along the shoe's topmost edge. This style of finishing is often produced with a contrasting material from the rest of the shoe's upper.

Tip

Also known as a cap, a tip is another piece of material, usually leather, enclosing the toe of the shoe. Tips come in a variety of shapes and patterns.

Loafers

Also referred to as Moccasins, they are slip-on shoes noted for their comfort. The shoe's construction tends to be simple and "roomy."

Chelsea Boot

Also referred to as a "Jodhpur Boot." It is a slip-on, heeled, ankle-high boot most easily identified by the elastic side panels that reach from the shoe's heel to its top.

Contoured Footbed

An insole usually made of memory foam that molds to the shape of the foot for extra comfort and support.

Monk Strap

An oxford-style shoe that is fastened with a strap closure, instead of being laced-up. Large flap-like appearance with buckles.

Oxfords

Another term for a Balmoral style shoe sometimes used to describe shoes that features 'Balmoral' style lacing.

Rim

Another term to describe the portion of the shoe where the foot enters, also known as the collar.

Boot

Any shoe that comes above the ankle. Boots can be formal or casual, and are often quite utilitarian in their design and are associated with certain trades or leisure activities - such as steel-toe construction boots, or motorcycle boots.

Motorcycle Boot

Boots designed with a thicker, more durable sole with motorcycle riding in mind.

Cap Toe

Common in dress shoes, a cap toe can be quickly identified by the straight line of stitches or punches across the shoe's toe.

Lapped Seam

Created when two pieces of material are attached by being sewn together, one on top of the other.

Louis Heel

Developed in the seventeenth century, it is a heel fashioned from an extension of the shoe's sole. Appears to be blended / one piece.

Shoe Width

Donald Pliner uses M (Medium/Standard) and N (Narrow)

Merino

Highly prized breed of Spanish sheep prized for its very find and high-quality wool. This type of wool is also strong and resilient and dyes well.

Full Grain Leather

Leather that has been tanned so that the natural texture or grain of the animal skin is visible.

Croc Embossed

Leather that is typically made from cow skin, but which has been made to resemble crocodile skin through stamping a pattern similar to crocodile skin into the leather and then giving the leather a high-shine.

Scalloped, Scalloping

Like pinking, but a wavy cut instead of a jagged, saw-toothed cut.

Kid Leather

Made from goat skin

Ruched

More common in women's footwear, it is a kind of finishing detail created by gathering and stitching together material in a pleated, or bunched manner.

Hose

Most properly known as hosiery and more commonly as pantyhose, this term refers to socks, stockings and tights as a collective.

Algonquin Toe

Named after the Algonquin Indian tribe for having designed it in the eighteenth century, the "Algonquin Toe" (also referred to as the Split Toe) is constructed by joining two pieces of leather together at the 'vamp' and 'welt' of the shoe.

Jodhpur Boot

Refer to 'Chelsea Boot'

Cushioning

Refers to a shoe's ability to absorb foot strike forces usually utilizing inner outer sole padding, also provides comfort and stability.

Microfiber

Refers to a synthetic, extremely fine fiber that closely replicates the consistency and drape of natural fiber cloth.

Nailed Construction

Refers to shoes that have their pieces nailed together, instead of sewn.

Heel

Refers to the bottom of a shoe that supports the heel cup, or the back of the shoe that touches the ground and elevates the heel of the foot. Standard heels range from low (1" high), medium (2" high), and high (3" and up).

Moc Toe

Shoes that are fabricated in the simple manner similar to moccasins (or loafers), but which lace-up (instead of slipping on).

Mersey Boot

Similar to the Chelsea or Jodhpur boot, but zipped along the side (instead of elasticated) and often fitted with a slightly raised heel.

Spectators

Similar to the concept of a saddle shoe. Typically wing tips with toes and upper heels contrasting from the shoe's other components.

Perforations

Small holes punched into the shoe's leather, often on the toe, in order to add ornamental details to dress shoes. Literally holes in the shoe.

Dressing

The application of polish or gloss to a shoe to maintain its finish and appearance.

Instep

The area of the foot between the toes and the ankle, or the top front part of a shoe.

Outsole

The bottom part of the shoe that is in constant contact with the ground.

Overlay

The embellishment on a shoe made by the layering of material over other material.

Insole

The inner sole of the shoe, which is often cushioned for comfort or molded for orthopedic reasons.

Lining

The inside surface of a shoe, made from several different types of material.

Midsole

The layer of material located under the insole but over the outsole providing the shoe's main support and cushioning components.

Fiberboard

The material used for counters, insoles, and heel lifts. It's primarily made of wood fibers.

Break

The natural crease created across the front leather upper of a shoe resulting from everyday wear.

Medallion

The ornamental details that are created by 'perforating,' or 'brogueing,' the toes of dress shoes in varied, but always symmetrical designs.

Ball

The padded section of foot found between the arch and the toes upon which body weight rests when the heel is elevated.

Heel Breast

The part of a shoe's heel that is forward facing.

Thread

The part of the shoe that is in contact with the ground. The thread provides traction to the bottom of the shoe, but the term may also be used to describe the design of the sole or the way the shoe's sole is worn.

Collar

The piece of material stitched around the opening or rim of the shoe. The collar may sometimes be padded to add extra comfort.

Quarter

The rear portion of a shoe comprising the part that covers the heel and is often joined at the back seam.

Lasting Margin

The section of the upper that is tucked under and attached to the shoe's sole.

Quarter Panels

The side components of the shoe, which run from its heel to its toe.

Quarter Lining

The soft, inner lining of the rear part of a shoe, typically made from leather or fabric to insulate or cool your feet.

Throat

The spot where you put your foot in. The throat goes from the vamp to the ankle.

Shank

The supportive part of the shoe connecting the heel and the wide part of the sole. It sits under the arch of the foot and gives the shoe structure.

Grain

The surface pattern on a piece of leather from which the hair has been removed. Differs depending on the animal it came from.

Sole

The underside of the shoe. The term is also used to describe the bottom of the foot.

Last

The wooden block around which a shoe is formed. The last represents the shape and size of the intended wearer's foot. Last's can be standard sizes or bespokes.

Saddle Shoe

This gets its name from the contrasting, darker middle section of the shoe, which is said to resemble a saddle sitting across the back of a horse.

Athletic Shoes

This is the generic name for shoes designed for sports or other physical exercise.

Toe Box

This is the term used to describe the portion of the shoe that holds the toe. It is the forward tip of the upper and provides space and protection for the toes.

Heel Seat

This is where the sole and the heel of the shoe are joined together; this is also where the heel of your foot rests.

Pinking

This term refers to the zig-zag, saw-toothed finish found the edge (or seams) of some shoes' components (particularly the toe). This adds texture to the edge of the shoe.

Balmorals

Typically ankle-high, front-laced shoes, wherein the bottom of the shoe's lacing is sewn to the front of the shoes throat, creating a closed 'V' shape at the bottom of the lacing. When tied, the Balmoral's tongue is completely concealed , except for its tip. It is said that this style received its name and popularity after Prince Albert was seen wearing such a shoe during an extended holiday at the Balmoral castle. - more formal - think of Oxford shoe

Bluchers

Typically ankle-length, front-laced shoes, wherein the bottom of the shoe's lacing is left unattached to the shoe's throat (unlike a Balmoral). Less formal than a Balmoral

Blucher Toe

Typically described as "an Apron Toe in reverse," as the toe's overlay in tuned-in to create a smooth 'apron-less' look.

Apron Toe

Unlike many shoe terms, an Apron Toe is actually what it sounds like. It can be recognized by the visible edges or stitching that finishes off the toe and forms a sort of apron along the shoe's front.