textiles chapter 15

the 2 fabrics made from yarns

1. braids 2. lace

types of composite fabrics

1. coated fabrics 2. laminates 3. suedelike fabrics 4. supported scrim 5. poromeric/ microporous 6. flocked fabrics 7. tufted-pile fabrics 8. stitch-bonded fabrics

5 types of fiber webs

1. dry-laid 2. wet-laid 3. spun bonded 4. melt blown 5. spun-lace

3 webs of staple fibers

1. dry-laid 2. wet-laid 3. spun lace

3 steps of melt-blown process

1. extruding the polymer through a single-extrusion orifice 2. high velocity, *heated air stream* breaks the fiber into short pieces 3. fibers are collected as a web on a moving conveyor belt and are held together by a combination of mechanical and thermal actions

two differences between foam and film?

1. films have *no* tiny air bubbles 2. films are not lofty, bulky or spongey

3 characteristics of spun bonded webs

1. high tensile strength 2. high tear strength 3. low bulk

2 categories of stitch-bonded fabrics

1. knit-through 2. sew-knit fabrics

3 main ways coatings are added to the fabric substrate

1. lamination (most common) 2. calendering 3. coating

two advantages of laminate fabrics

1. less expensive process 2. lightweight fabrics that give warmth without weight

3 ways web fabrics can be stabilized

1. mechanical 2. chemical adhesives 3. heat and pressure

mechanical (2 types)

1. needle punching 2. stitch bonding

characteristics of felt (4)

1. no grain 2. does not fray or ravel 3. poor pliability and stretch recovery 4. poor strength

5 other coating methods

1. rotary screen technique 2. slot die technique 3. foam technique 4. spray technique 5. transfer coating

4 methods used to apply the chemical binder

1. saturation bonding 2. spray bonding 3. print bonding 4. foam bonding

2 fibers used directly from extrusion

1. spun bonded 2. melt-blown

heat and pressure (2 types)

1. thermal 2. hydro

3 bonding methods used to produce laminates

1. wet-adhesive 2. foam-flame 3. hot-melt lamination

3 general characteristics of braids

1. yarns interlaced diagonally and lengthwise 2. stretchy and easily shaped 3. flat/ 3D braid used for trim and technical products

main difference between pile and tufted fabrics

-PILE: pile yarns are woven into the structure -TUFTED: pile yarns are tufted through/ on a pre-woven background

chemical bonding

-chemical binder applied to the web and is cured -one of the most common methods of bonding

ultrasonic quilts

-embossing technique is used to produce quilt like fabrics -uses materials made from thermoplastic fibers to fuse the materials with an embossed pattern -not considered the same as stitch-bonded

fusible nonwovens

-normally coated with a heat-sealable (thermoplastic) adhesive -garment interfacing or interlining

what are the properties of non wovens controlled by?

-the arrangement of the fibers in the web -the properties of the fibers used in the web -the properties of any binders used

flocking

a fine natural or synthetic surface fiber is applied after a base fabric has been produced

fiberfill

a manufactured fiber staple made especially for use as a filler

suede

a popular leather for coats, jackets, dresses, trims and interiors; made by napping on the flesh side or on one side of a split to pull up the fibers

needle punching

a process of bonding non woven web structures by mechanical interlocking the fibers

hot-melt lamination process

a sandwich consisting of an outer fabric, the adhesive and the liner fabric is adhered with heat and pressure

spray technique

a thin solution is sprayed onto the surface of the substrate

wet-adhesive lamination method

an adhesive is applied to the underside of the face fabric and joined to the liner fabric when it is passed through pressure rollers

fur

any animal skin or part of an animal skin to which the hair, fleece or fur fibers are attached

raschel lace

are produced at much higher speeds and thus are less expensive

ultrasonic lace machine

basically the same embossing idea, but it cuts out patterns from the fabric

rotary screen technique

coating applied to the fabric through a rotating open screen in contact with the fabric

coated fabrics

combines a textile and a polymer film -hard to separate the coating layer from the base fabric

quilted fabrics

composite fabrics consisting of three layers: face fabric, fiberfill or batting, and backing fabric; these layers are stitch bonded with thread, chemical adhesive or fusion by ultra-high frequency sound

supported films

composite fabrics; coated or reinforced films

foam-flame lamination process

consist of a layer of foam covered by another fabric, or between two fabrics

dry-laid fiber webs

deposition of the staple fibers to form a web; randomly oriented

fiber density

describes the weight or mass per unit volume; used to match components to end-use requirements for resiliency and weight

melt-blown

extrude polymer filament into heated air, break fiber into short pieces, which are caught into a web

nonwoven

fabrics not made from yarn but also refers to knits; generally refers to a fiber web structure

composite fabrics

fabrics that combine several primary and/or secondary structures; at least one of which is a recognized textile structure

leavers lace

fairly expensive, depending on the quality of yarns and the intricacy of the design

supported scrim

falls under the laminate category; include foam-and-fiber blankets and outerwear that combine a lightweight nylon scrim and a loose warp-knit fabric between two thin layer of polyurethane foam

characteristics of tufted fabrics

fast and inexpensive

plain films

firm, dense, and uniform; impermeable to air and water and have excellent soil and stain resistance and good recovery from deformation

foam technique

for thermal drapery fabrics and blackout curtains, applies the coating as a foam

characteristics of dry-laid fibers

good strength, low elongation, low tear strength

example of poromeric or microporous fabric

gore-tex

battenberg lace

handmade with loops of woven tape attached by yarn brides in patterns

split leather

has a looser, more porous structure; not as smooth as top grain

cordonnet/ re-embroidered lace

has a yarn or cord outlining the design

grain-sueded leather

has been napped on the grain side and has a velvet-like hand

characteristic of melt-blown web

has low strength

full-grain leather

has not been split

shifting resistance

important in maintaining a uniform fabric thickness

stitch-bonded fabrics

method of consolidating fiber webs with knitting elements with yarn to interlock the fibers, fabrics, or yarns

braids

narrow fabric in which yarns interlace lengthwise and diagonally; narrow fabrics made of three or more yarns plaited together in a diagonal pattern

suedelike fabrics

needle-punched fabrics made from micro denier fibers combined with a resin coating and nonferrous polyurethane

how are suede-like fabrics made

needle-punched fabrics made from micro denier fibers combined with resin coating and non-fibrous polyurethane

tufting

process of making pile fabrics by stitching extra yarns into fabric base or substrate

leather

processed from the skins and hides of mammals, reptiles, fish and birds

spun lace

produces lace-like patterns; jets of water are forced through the web; greater elasticity and flexibility; mattress pads, medical gowns, drapes, wipes, etc. -"fiber web lace fabric"

tuft density

refers to the number of tufts per square inch

what are the two most common types of foams?

rubber and polyurethane

hydroentangled/ spun lace

similar to spun bonded; jets of water are forced through the web, shattering the filaments into staple fibers and producing a woven-like structure; fibers generally hydrophobic

expanded films

spongier, sofer and plumper because a blowing agent incorporates *tiny air cells* into the compound; contain micropores

transfer coating

the coating compound is applied to release paper, dried, and then applied to the substrate; used only when no other technique can be used

gauge

the distance in inches between the tufting needles

how is thermal bonding done

the fiber web is passed between heated calender rollers, where the web is bonded; in most cases point bonding by the use of embossed rolls -use of smooth rolls bonds the entire surface of the fabric increasing the strength, but reduces drape and softness

top grain

the first layer that has the typical animal grain on its outer surface

poromeric or microporous fabrics

the membrane layer has micro-pores in the fabric -the micropores allow the passage of water vapor but not liquid water

embroidery

the only technique in which yarn can be arranged in almost any direction

tanning

the process in which skins and hides are treated with a chemical agent to make them pliable and water- and rot-resistant

thermal bonding

the process of using heat to bond or stabilize a web structure that consists of a thermoplastic fiber; eliminates the use of latex or resin binders

slot die technique

the solution is extruded over the substrate's full width at the desired thickness

why are nonwovens less durable than woven or knitted fabrics?

they're fused fiber pieces

felt

true felt is a mat of wool or wool blend

laminates

use adhesives to combine layers -layers of fabrics -layer fabric + layer foam

wet laid

water is used as a medium to arrange the fibers; randomly oriented fiber web; water brings the fiber to the belt, fibers must by hydrophobic

air laid

web structure made using air circulation that causes fiber arrangement in random fashion

cross laid

web structure made using carding and this structure doesn't have a grain

lace

yarns are twisted around each other to create open areas; openwork fabric, can be handmade or machine made; no stretch

supported-scrim structures

include foam-and-fiber blankets and outerwear that combine a lightweight nylon scrim and a loose warp-knit fabric between two thin layers of polyurethane foam

what is the most commonly used chemical binder

latex because it is economical, easy to apply and very effective

needlepoint lace

made by drawing a pattern on paper, laying down yarns over the pattern and stitching over the yarns with needle and thread

crocheted lace

made by hand with a crochet hook

foams

made by incorporating air into an elastic like substance, bulkiness, sponginess; too weak to be used without backing or covering

films

made directly from a polymer solution by melt-extrusion or by casting onto a hot drum

batting

made from new fiber

wadding

made from waste fiber

spun bonded

made immediately after fibers are extruded from spinnerets, in semi-melted state fuse at cross-points; laid randomly

bobbin lace

made on a pillow; the pattern is drawn on paper and pins are inserted at various points

how is felt produced

mat or web of wool held together by the interlocking of the wool scales; washing wool fleece, spreading out wet wool and beating it until matted and shrunk