AMDT 212 EXAM 1

interfacing

a special type of fabric applied between the facing and the fashion side of the fabric

purpose of shank

acts as a spacer to keep the button raised above the garment surface

open at both ends

also called separating. Used to totally open a seam (jacket front

metal zippers

consist of individual metal teeth. They are typically made from nickel, brass, aluminum and manganese.

slot or centered

evenly centered under seam

Tight vertical or diagonal wrinkles

garment is too short in an area

loose vertical wrinkles

garment is too wide

loose horizontal wrinkles

indicate that the garment is longer than the body in that area

plastic zippers

individual plastic teeth that fit together like puzzle pieces. They are very durable and commonly used in outerwear, sports clothes and equipment (gym bags, etc.), and outdoor goods.

zipper composition

nylon,metal, plastic

inseam pockets

occur at a structural garments seam. concealed or exposed. concealed: are formed when the opening edges of the pockets are abutted. Inseam concealed pockets are typically in the side seam OR waistline seam. exposed: set into a waistline AND a side seam of a garment. You can clearly see the pocket bag.

design detail

Designers and product developers use trim and embellishments to add details and interest to the surface of apparel prioducts.

use of boning

In undergarments, bras, corsets, dresses and bodices

tucks definition

Is a shaping method consisting in stitching lengthwise folds of fabric uniform in width

zipper opening

Open at one end or conventional zipper Open at both ends or separating zipper Open at neither end or hidden zipper

set

refers to a smooth fit without wrinkles. These wrinkles are caused by the way the garment fits the wearer. Generally, wrinkles in a garment tell us about the fit in the following ways.

Seam tapes and stays?

seam lines

button types

shank: raise buttons above garment surface eyed: have holes

Types of support devices?

shoulder pads, boning, hoops and bustles, sleeve heads, collar stays, chest pieces, bra cups, seam binding and tape, weight belts, horsehair braid

weights definition

small, thin pieces of metal encased in fabric or chains tacked in place to perfect the drape of the garment

what are weights?

supporting devices that help hems hand evenly and prevent exposure of the body from strong wind gusts

Drawstring casings use?

sweatpants, and men's swim trunks

invisible

the chain is hidden under the tape when the zipper is closed

tight horizontal wrinkles

the garment is too small above or below the wrinkles

underlap

the zipper has an underlap to protect the skin and undergarments

Purpose of interlinings, linings and underlinings?

they are underlying fabrics that support a garment

open at one end

to enlarge one edge of a garment (skirt, pants, or neckline)

Collar stay use?

to keep collar upright and in the shape intended. not suppose to be worn

fly

topstitched on one side of the opening

What is a spectrometer?

used to analyze color. Samples used

open at neither end

used to create an opening in a closed area (purses)

exposed

visible

reinforce buttons

with interfacing. buttons without interfacing are not durable. they can tear away.

lapped

zipper teeth lie under only one side of seam (backpack)

markers

- Makers indicates how all the pattern pieces of a garment are arrange efficiently on the fabric to optimize use of material and cost. - The use of a CAM system such as AccuMark, is growing rapidly because of its accuracy, speed and cost saving. Also (Modaris 2D & 3D)

grain

The lengthwise and crosswise yarns of the fabric Lengthwise grain runs parallel to the length of the body Exception: bias On grain garments hang evenly and appears symmetrical.

french fly

This zipper has an underlap extension with buttons on the inside. Found in high quality pants

Shaping devices: yokes, darts, tucks, pleats, gathers

-Yokes: horizontal division within a garment; small, flat panel of fabric usually at the shoulder, waist, or midriff -Darts: triangular fold stitched to shape the flat fabric to the curves and bulges of the body -Tuck: stitched fold of fabric -Pleat: fold of fabric folded back upon itself so that the pleat is comprised of 3 layers -Gathers: a series of small folds of fabric, controlled and held in place by stitches to provide visible fullness

zipper applications

1. Slot or centered 2. Lapped 3. Exposed 4. Invisible 5. Fly 6. Underlap 7. French fly

non woven interfacing

Advantage of using Fiberweb least expensive has no grainline Disadvantage of using Fiberweb not very drapable Less durable

knit interfacing

Advantage of using Knit does not ravel costs less than woven interfacings Disadvantage of using Knit Must be cut on grain possibility to curl

woven interfacing

Advantage of using Woven Strong Does not stretch Disadvantage of using Woven Ravels the most expensive

fusible

Advantages: Stable & stiff does not roll easily Disadvantages: can deteriorate with heat can cause pucker