Chapter 1

Overseas Agent

(aka an intermediary) a person or company that represents an exporter or importer in the countries overseas where it conducts business. Having an agent in the country where business is being conducted is almost a requisite to conducing overseas business--serve their clients by: -having knowledge and access to local business contacts, buying sources, and customers. -translating -advising clients in proper courtesies and dress when overseas

State several reasons why a company would import textiles or textile products. State potential problems that might result.

A company would import textiles or textile product because: -textiles are labor intensive -produced in low -wage developing countries--low labor costs and low selling prices are very competitive -cost advantages -some fabrics are superior to domestic products (i.e. English wool, Japanese silk, etc.) Potential problems: -cost of transportation and problems with lengthened delivery schedules -difficulties in communication -occasional inferior-quality shipments -dealing with governmental regulations and red tape

List several differences U.S. buyers may encounter when buying textiles made overseas rather than textiles made in the U.S.

Buying textiles not made in the US they might not have a first-quality standard that is published by the industry or government.

Importer

Buys fabric or manufactured textiles products (e.g. clothing, soft luggage, other sewn products) from a foreign mill or other supplier and brings it into the US. It is then sold to an American apparel manufacturer or other customer, such as a retailer. Different form "import mill."

The textile industry faces various environmental problems. State several.

Environmental problems: -air and water pollution -water waste -disposal of waste products -health of workers in mills -possible water pollution from home laundering -recycling

Over-the-Counter

Fabrics bought in retail stores

Explain how the production of an apparel article (e.g. pants) can be considered a globalized effect, interconnecting people round the world.

Fibers from one country, spun into yarn in another, then made into fabric, then finished elsewhere, then cut and sewn, then finally sold.

Jobber

Help dispose of excess or surplus merchandise for the mill; also buys from converters, garment manufacturers, and other users. Valuable customers of mills and converters because they often buy difficult to sell fabrics, like discontinued styles, colors, overruns, etc. Also buy large quantities of fabric they think will become greatly in demand in the near future, so they can be a source of hard-to-get items. Offer low prices and interesting fabrics, but they cannot offer content of a fabric, can't reorder fabric from them. Sell to small or specialized end-user companies.

Put-Up

Indicate the way fabric is packaged when it is sold -Most is sold to garment and other manufacturers in a rolled put-up (fabric is wound around a cardboard tube)--a full roll or piece of woven fabric is 60-100yrds. -Knit fabrics are usually shipped in 35-50 lbs rolls, in either open width or tubular form -with mechanization and automation, 1,000 yrd pieces are becoming the norm--wider and larger rolls result in higher efficiency -doubled and rolled = folded in half lengthwise and then wound around a flat piece of cardboard (cloth sold to retail stores is usually in this put-up)--less than 30 yrd lengths -velvet and other plush fabrics aren't rolled because the resulting pressure would flatten the surface, they are placed in a frame so that the source doesn't come in catcall with any other part of the cloth

Market Planning

Involves long-range planning: -The design of woven fabrics for apparel begins about a year and a half to two years before those designs will appear on retail racks. -Fabric designing for a new season takes 6 months. -New fabrics are shown at fabric shows and exhibitions about one year before the retail selling season begins. -Apparel manufacturers immediately begin designing their liens with these new fabrics and present their new designs at openings, trade show, sand press events about 6 months later. -The remaining 6 months of the cycle involve the apparel manufacturers in selling,producing and delivering goods to retail stores.

Private labels result in the retailer becoming a manufacturer. Explain.

Large quantities of textile are sold directly to department stores, for manufacture by the retailer or a contractor into private-label clothing. design of the fabric and finished product is usually done by the retail designers and technical staff employed by the retailer. In effect the retail er is the manufacturer.

Vertically Integrated Mill

Mill that not only make the fabric, but also produce their own yarn and perform the finishing processes required after rat fabric has been created (do not make their own fibers). Some also manufacture and distribute apparel.

Overrun

Occurs when a mill produces more dyed, printed, or finished fabric than the order specifies. Occurs for various reasons, including allowances for damaged yardage and short pieces unacceptable to the customer.

Over the past 2 decades there has been a decrease in the quantity of apparel fabrics made in the U.S. Why?

Over the past 2 decades there has been a decrease in the quantity of apparel fabrics made in the US because there as been a shift toward importing--most imported items are cheaper and have been forcing the closure of many textile producer. The cost advantages of imports is often sizable.

Shorts

Pieces of fabric shorter than 40 yards in length; jobbers normally are the buyers of these short pieces of fabric

Explain how it is possible for production to increase while employment decreases.

Possible to production to increase while employment decreases because textiles are becoming heavily modernized, mechanized, etc.

What are the differences between buying textiles by specification and buying by sample?

Specification: the seller, lighter foreign or domestic must ship the fabric exactly as specified. (i.e. yarns per inch, width weight, thickness, breaking strength, and degree of colorfastness) Sample: seller is required to deliver a fabric almost identical to the sample because ht sample is a representation of what the buy er will later receive.

State how a knowledge of textiles is of value to each of the following: the textile product manufacturer, the retail store, and the customer.

Textile Product Manufacturer: Retail Store: Customer:

Greige

Unfinished fabric

Remnants

Usually 1-10 yard pieces of cloth

Pound Goods

Usually very short pieces of fabric --less than one yard in length--sold by the pound and not by the yard Fabric that can't be sold in any other manner is sold this way, bought at the buyer's risk and receive the lowest price Esp. used for stuffing for furniture and clothes for dolls.

A curtain manufacturer wants to purchase 10,000 yards of a printed chintz fabric. Explain whether any of the following resources can be use: a. textile mill b. textile converter c. jobber d. retail fabric store

a. textile mill: no, because textile mills produce fabric, but it isn't yet printed on. b. textile converter: yes, because they have the fabric fabric dyed, printed, and finished then they sell it. c. jobber: yes because they buy from converters, but they might not have enough quantity of a specific fabric d. retail fabric store: no because they have a large variety, but with small inventory of each.

Mill

companies that owns textile machinery and makes fabric Sell to converters, manufacturers, large retail stores, and jobbers. (largest in US - Springs Global and Milliken & Company)

Yarn

continuous threadlike strands composed of fibers that have been twisted together

Sourcing

fabrics and sewing services from sources outside the US

Finished Goods

fabrics with additional treatments (called finishes), such as special chemicals to make fabric water-repellent, etc. Done in finish plants, art of dye/print plants usually. Ready to be used by other manufacturers to make garments, etc.

Interior Furnishings

home fashions; textiles used in items such as furniture, bath, kitchen, and bed.

Retail

home sewers purchase fabrics sold in these stores; which is called over-the-counter sales. Usually have a large variety of fabrics, with a small inventory of each.

Fair Trade

indicates that a product was produced without labor exploitation, by using environmentally sustainable practices, and that the producers received fair prices of their product. Used especially with regard to small businesses (farms, artisans, etc.) in developing countries who sell to companies in developed countries.

Converter

individual or organization that buys greige ("gray") goods--unfinished fabric--usually from mills, has the fabric dyed or printed and finished by other companies, and then sells the finished fabric. Smaller than large textile mills. Sell to same customers as mills (apparel and interior furnishings manufacturers, jobbers, and retail stores).

Recycling

large component of the environmental movement to reduce ecological damage. Recycled produces include fibers, yarns, fabric, garments, and used chemicals.

Fabric

made form yarns and are either woven or knitted

Environment

many problems relate to the textile industry, including air and water pollution, disposal of waste products, health of workers in mill,s and possible water pollution from home laundering.

Exclusive/Captive Brand

national brand with distribution through one retailer different from private label because of control and ownership

Dyeing

process for imparting a solid color to textiles, to make the fabric more appealing--done in a dye plant (dye house)

Printing

process of imparting designs to textiles, to make the fabric more appealing--done in a print plant (print house)

Private Label

retail brand in which apparel or other sewn products are manufactured specifically for a retailer and sold exclusively by the retailer.

Fiber

smallest part of the fabric; fine, hairlike substances, categorized as either natural or manufactured.

Apparel

textiles used in clothing

Industrial Products

textiles used in items such as luggage, flags, boat sails, bandages, dust filters, etc.

Human rights, business relationships, and the environment should be examined with regard to fair trade practices. State an example for each.

worker conditions, fair pay to companies, and environmentally responsible practices