Chapter 10: Patternmaking

Additional Considerations

Pattern makers in different parts of the world: -May use different methods -Have different perceptions of the body and proportions -Require more time to check samples -Lack familiarity with English measurements

Pattern Drafting

-2-D Method -Begins from scratch for each garment style -1st body measurements taken 2nd lines and ease are added for 2-D paper pattern -Hand or Computer (AutoCAD) -Commonly used for men's wear and off shore vendors -More expensive and timely -Better for unique garments and designing for individuals with fitting needs

Flat-Pattern

-2-D method for patternmaking -Can be done by manipulating a basic pattern template or previously perfected pattern blocks -Most widely used -Paper or oak tag templates modified by hand

Combination Methods

-3-D but also 2-D method -Digitizing pattern blocks or sample garment pieces directly into the computer -Sometimes called "Reverse Engineering"/Knock-off/Rub-off -Very cost effective -US doesn't allow copying silhouettes this method but Europe does

Draping

-3-D method for patternmaking -First patternmaking method to be developed -Typically used for garments at higher prices (unique silhouettes/women's formal wear) -Muslin= less expensive fabric for draping

Spec flat/Technical flat

-Accurate 2D drawing of garment with proportions, details, and construction required for production purposes

Vendor Compliance:

-Adherence to specs and the evaluation of the outcomes

Design Specs

-Based on line plan and initial illustrations or prototype garments for styles -Includes: -Style Summary Sheet -Preliminary Cost Sheet

In-House Patternmaking

-Biggest advantage is they focus on one target market and find the perfect FIT -Proximity to the market allows for fittings on a live model -Most rely on computerized patternmaking systems -Rare due to difficulty finding domestic skilled patternmakers

Spec Pack: Standards

-Can be described as characteristics used as the basis of judgements made about products -Established to reflect the two major goals of any business: 1. To enable the company to make a profit 2. To meet target customers' expectations

Building a Tech Pack

-Design Sheet (cover sheet) -Illustration Sheet: front, back, detail and color ways -Fabric Sheet: Fabric -Component Sheet: trim and sewing components -Label/Packaging Sheet: labels, hangtags, hangers, polybags -Details/Construction Sheet: stitch types, stitch widths, special construction needs -Spec Sheet: measurements

Technical Specs

-Detailed info regarding materials -The focus is on the development of first production patterns and production sample approvals -1st step: Component Sheet -2nd step: Pattern Chart Spec Form

Lectra:

-Diamino Fashion: software for marker making -Kaledo Packages: for apparel design and textile design -Modaris: for pattern design

Production Specs

-Final stage of specification development -Production pattern, final -Provides for producing quantities rather than individual prototype garments -May require an Operation List

Manufacturing-Driven Product Development

-Firms "commoditize" or knock-off a style by: Lowering the level of detail, uniqueness, or fit/ Simplifying patterns -Balancing act of ordering volume -Easy to sew in garments at the lowest-price in a timely manner

Block Pattern

-Foundation pattern piece for Flat-Pattern method -Used to develop new or more complex styles -Page 330 Visual

Types of Spec Sheet Forms

-Gerber's AccuMark -Tutatech -Lectra -OptiTex -Polygon Software

Purpose of Specifications

-Go into production without referring to Design -Ensure required materials are made available -Marketing may use in presentations -Departments may refer to it for points of discussion -Brings unity and efficiency to a company

Out-Sourcing Patternmaking Services

-Good for small start up companies -May be outsourced with a separate patternmaking service or included as part of the production contract -Tend to be located regionally -Familiar with domestic body shapes -Maintain files of previous work for future styling needs

Specifications (SPECS) Include:

-Graphic and Written Descriptions of: -Styling -Materials -Dimensions -Production procedures -Finishing instructions

Operation List:

-Identifies each step of construction, including the identification of the stitches and seams involved

Sourcing Patternmaking Choices

-In-House Patternmaking -Patternmaking Services -Full-Package Vendors

Full Package Vendors

-Includes patternmaking, sampling, and production -Allows product developers to focus on their core competencies -Good option when knocking-off a product -Common in Asia, Turkey, and Israel

Marker Definition

-Layout of pattern pieces on fabric -Number of sizes x Number of pattern pieces per garment x Number of layers of fabric + extra = Volume needed

Callouts

-Magnify construction detail

Standards

-Most apparel standards are voluntary but generally adhere to -Enforced Standards: 1. Federal Trade Commission (FTC): garment care and fiber identification labels 2. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC): Flammability standards for children's sleepwear and limitations on lead content

Measurement Charts

-Most frequently used spec sheets -All garment measurements needed for sample size pattern -All measurements needed for other sizes in projected range -Sample sizes usually 8-10 for misses -One list is exact measurements of garments for each size -Other list is a set of incremental measurements that direct what to add or subtract from sample garment

Style Summary Sheet

-Part of Design Spec -Drawings of the front and back of style

Preliminary Cost Sheet

-Part of Design Spec -Product cost estimates -Estimates of labor, materials, and all other cost of producing the garment -Estimates the wholesale price

Pattern Chart Spec Form

-Part of Tech Spec -Also known as Piece Reference Sheet -Listing of all pattern pieces needed -Includes a drawing and a name, along with a count of each piece required for one garment -Used typically with in-house vendors or CMT vendors

Component Sheet

-Part of Tech Spec -Sometimes labeled "materials specifications" -Listing of all fabrics, findings, trims, that will be used for the garment -Main function is to identify all materials required for construction of the sample garment

Patternmaking Needs

-Pattern determines silhouette -Complexity affects price and fit -Price is also affected by who makes the pattern (in-house, service, or factory)

Seconds/Irregulars

-Seconds/Irregulars: Products that do not fit within the tolerances and are rejected. Most common= measurement of the finished garments

Tukatech:

-TUKAcad: for patternmaking, grading, and marker making -SMARTmark: for marker making -E-fit Simulator: for 3D virtual prototypes and digital sample making

Specifications are:

-The basis for contracts with vendors for: 1. Materials 2. Production capacity 3. Establishment of criteria for maintaining quality standards 4. Evaluating vendor compliance -Computerized specs systems are used for real-time communication for everyone in the supply chain -May be simple or complex -Varies greatly: 1 page to 27+ pages

Design-Driven Product Development

-The integrity of the design is more important than production efficiencies -Fashion-forward -More complex patterns & construction -Fabrics less standard -Markers will vary in efficiency -Specialized sewing capabilities needed -Smaller quantities

Patternmaking

-The interpretation of a garment concept from a sketch, photo, or another existing product into a paper representation or template for use in production of the finished garment style -2-D Methods: drafting directly from measurements/flat-pattern drafting/drafting pattern from existing garments -3-D Methods: Draping

Tolerances

-Tolerances: The variations from identified criteria that will be allowed during production -Which products will be accepted for sale -Acceptable tolerance amounts must more extend into the spec for the next size larger or smaller than the original measurements

Closed Specs

-When info is detailed and specific, requires the use of exact materials, and even predetermine the exact suppliers -Pros: Ensure the consistency of final product -Cons: May increase end cost of product bc they limit flexibility

Open Specs

-When the information provided is generic and contains only the very basic necessary facts -Pros: Allows for flexibility on the part of the producer or vendor -Cons: May lead to undesirable surprises in end

Spec Pack Include:

-Written directions for volume production -Division, Season, Style, -Size Information(measurement chart) -Fabric Information (fiber, yarn) -Findings/Trims/Decorative Detail -Construction/Silhouette -Additional Label Info -Stitch/Seam Info -Color-ways/Print Options -Image of Garment/Flat of Garment -Vendor Identification -Minimum Performance Standards -Preferred Construction Methods -Test Methods

Specification Development: Stages

1. Design Specs 2. Technical Specs 3. Production Specs

Flat-Pattern Process

1st. Block Pattern 2nd. First Pattern 3rd. Fitting 4th. Production Pattern 5th. Marker