Chapter 17

Luster:

-Done by calendering (exerting pressure while passing fabric between two cylinders) -Produces change in fabrics light reflectance. Most increase light refelctance and improve fabrics shine/luster.

Texture and Hand: Embossed

3D or raised pattern -permanent if fiber is thermoplastic and resin is used and heat set raised/releif designs:one hard one soft roll to create relief. heat embossing: fabric passed between rolls to create permant 3d design that can be seen and felt dry embossing process is sam ebut design is temporary and not permanent

Texture and Hand: Abrasive, chemical, or enzyme

Abrasive Wash: pumice/abrasive material saturated with chemical and tumbled with fabric Chemical Wash: Chemical added to wash solution to alter surface. Chemicals partially destroy fiber to create irregularities ex) fashion denims Enzyme: Similar to chemical washes except they use cellulase which is an enzyme that dissolved part of the cellulose molecule. Permanent effect with softer hand. removes surface fuzz an reduces pilling, decreases fabric weight & reduces strength los. aka bio polishing or bio finishing

Drape:Weighting

Adds weight and body. Metallic salts are used to silk. Some salts with fiber are durable while others produce temporary surface coating ex) apparel fabric

Texture and Hand: Emerizing

Aka sueding, sanding, or peach skin is a process used on fine silk like fabrics of natural or manufactured fibers. Damages fiber and can decrease its strength. These fabrics need to be handled carefully ex) apparel and some interior

Aesthetic finishes are an

Applied Design. Meaning they have the purpose in altering some visual textural hand or other aesthetic dimension of the fabric.

Chemical Finish

Chemically altered.

Texture and Hand: Expanded Foam

Colored compund printed on the fabric expands during processing to give 3d texture. Durable but create problems with pressing. Dont always age well

Texture and Hand: Fulled

Compacting/felting of wool fabric. wool fabrics improves thier apperance ahnd thickness, softness, body, and cover. Fabrics fulled by moisture, heat and friction in very mild carrefully controlled felting process -denser, more compact -almost all wool and knit wools are fulled

Texture and Hand: Hand Build

Compounds that soften fabric hand. apparel and bedding

Luster: Schreiner

Deep softer luster. Metal roller engraved with 200 to 300 fine diagonal lines -temporary finish gone after first wash -can upgrade a lower quality fabric ex) cotton sateen for apparel upholstery wall and window covering

Drape: Transparent and Crisp

Done by parchmentizing- treat cellulose with sulfuric acid. Must be carefully monitored by the split second to preent tendering (weakening) of the fabric. All over: transparent effect. Sheer combed lawn is used. Lawn is singed desized bleached and mercerized then dyed or printed with colors that resist acid damage. After it goes through solution, partially dissolving, and and rehardening and dry it becomes permanently crisp ex) organdy Localized: design is small figure with large transparent area an acid resistant substance is printed on the figures and fabric is run thru the acid bath Plisse:

Texture and Hand: Napped

FIber ends raised from ground by mechanical brushing. Literally made by finishing. -less expensive -napping machines may be single or double action -soft twist filling yarns, soft, attractive, good insulator -laid down or brushed -plain or twill weave, or knit. -almost all napped fabric is used for apparel -Flannel

Drape: Sizing (starching)

Fabric immersed in mixture containing waxes, oils, glycerine, and softeners to add or control fabric body. -adds stiffness, weight, and BODY(commonly) -resin based and heat based=permanent -water soluble= impermanent and cause problems -gelatin is used w rayon to enhance its natural luster ex) apparel fabric

Texture and Hand: Flocked

Fine natural or synthetic surface fiber is applied after a base fabric has been produced. -Can be localized or all over -add pattern and interest

Texture and Hand: Embroidered

Hand or machine, durable Machine- two used(shuttle(allover) and multihead), zigzag stitches multihead embroidery- flat or pile embroidery. versatile, many heads used, your typical embroidery Eyelet- small round holes cu tin fabric with stitching completely around holes. Ajoure- open areas created in pattern or figure

Texture and Hand: Sheared

Pile or Nap cut

Texture and Hand: Plisse

Printed sodium Hydroxide. Converted from lawn or print cloth gray goods by printing an alkali sodium hydroxide onto apparel fabric to form stripes or designs. Alkali shrinks the fabric in the treated areas texture change is permanent but can be somewhat softened by steam and pressure

Drape: Burned-Out (etched or devore)(subtractive)

Printing a chemical solvent on a blend fabric made of different generic fibers. One fiber is dissolved leaving sheer areas Common fiber combos: nylon and silk(sensitive) polyester and rayon(sensitive) Ex)satin, velvet for apparel and window treatments

Luster: Cire

Produces more/greater luster ex) taffeta, satin, tricot fabric. gives it wet look

Texture and Hand: Silk boil-off

Removes the sericin (30 percent of silks fabric weight) and creates a looser, more mobile fabric structure. -alkaline solution, enzymes, ultrasonic vibrations, plasma treatment, sodium salts

Subtractive Finish

Something is removed from fabric during finishing

Texture and Hand: Crepeing

Special compacting process to produce fabric with a soft hand. All over or plisse Add comfort stretch w soft drape

Texture and Hand: Bettled

Traiditional to linen fabric. used on linen and fabrics resembling linen. Using high pressure, resin, and thermoplastic fibers. Pressure flattens yarns into oval shape associated with beetled fabrics. -permanent flattening -damaskm crash, and other linenlike fabrics

Luster: Glazed

Uses friction calendering to produce highly glazed surface. Passed through solution, then partially dried, then calendered. starch&waxes= temporary finish resin finish= durable finish (used more) ex) glazed chintz and polished cotton. apparel, lightweight upholstery, window treatments, bedspreads

Luster: Embossed

Using embossing calandering that produces flat or raised designs on fabric. -important with heat sensitive fibers bc it produces a durable washable embossed pattern -heated, hollow engraved metal roll and solid roll twice the size of the engraved roll -can be done to flat and pile fabrics -flat embossed are simplist to produce

Texture and Hand: Caustic (or alkali) Treatment

With synthetic fibers, this is used to get a hand and texture like silk.

Luster: Moire

Wood grained design to ribbed fabrics 1)embossed metal roll (engrave pattern) 2)off grain then have layers press into one another where certain flattened areas reflect more liht than others ex) formal interiors and apparel upholstery and wall coverings

Padding Machine

applied dyes and finishing chemicals in either liquid or paste form to fabric. -Padding done by passing fabric through solution under a guide roll with heavy pressure between to padding rolls. Depends on finish to be applied -Excess liquid is squeezed off then its steamed cleaned and dried

Seersucker, plisse, and embossed fabrics all:

can be similar in appearance and price range

Aesthetic finishes

change the appearance and or hand of fabrics. NOT structural

Additive finish

finishing chemical is added to fabric to produce texture luster embossed design and abrasion resistance in fabric

Drape:

makes a fabric more stiff or more flexible. Usually add a chemical compund to fabric (additive) or dissolve a portion of the fibers present (subtractive)

Mechanical Finish

mechanically distored or altered with heat or pressure

Texture and Hand:Puckered Surface

partially dissolving surface of nylon or polyester fabric

Texture and Hand: Pleated

variation of embossing. highly specialized. Paper pattern: costly hand process, wider variety Machine Pleating (running process): less expensive, blades make the pleat then aging unit then makes a permanent 3d effect. Dont need stitching but pleats do soften ex) lampshades apparel the ush.

Backfilling Machine

variation of padding machine. Applies finish to one side only usually to the back of the fabric.