Chapter 21 Milady

4. Are contributing pigments aka undertones to be revealed? 5. What colors should be mixed to get the desired result

Always remember to formulate with both lift and deposit in mind in order to achieve the proper balance for the desired and result

Selecting the correct color filler

Always use the primary or secondary color that is missing in the hair. That color is called the complementary color.

Demipermanent colors in a light level, such as a level 8, light blonde, to a level 10, lightest blond,

Are also used to tone hair

Fillers

Are used to equalize porosity

Conditioner fillers

Are used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair and equalize porosity so that the hair accepts the color evenly from strand to strand from scalp to ends

Intensity

Strength of a color. "Straight pigment"

Low porosity

Tight hair, hair is resistant, which means difficult for chemicals & moisture to penetrative. Reject moisture. Cuticle is tight.

One factor to consider when coloring low percentages of gray or salt-and-pepper hair to a

darker level is that color on color will always make a darker color

when heat is used with hair lighteners, it softens the hair and makes it more fragile

excessive heat increases the rate of reaction and swell the hair. Excessive heat can lift and crack the cuticle and break bonds within the cortex

virgin application

first time the hair is colored

most powder lightners are used exclusively for off-the-scalp applications and special effects, such as

foil wrapped, plastic caps, and hair painting.

cap technique

involves pulling clean, dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal look, and then combing them remove tangles. the number of strands pulled through determines the amount f hair that will be highlighted or low lighted

toners are primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale, delicate colors

no-lift, demipermanent haircolors are often used as toners. the contributing pigment is the color that remains in the hair after lightening

The application procedure for demipermanent haircolor is similar to that if a

traditional semipermanent color, since neither process alters the hair's natural melanin or produces lift

Level system colorist use to identify the lightness or darkness of a color

1 being the darkest and 10 being the lightest. 10 is closer to the sun so hair would be lighter with more sun

Steps for applying color to new growth and faded ends

1. Apply color to the new growth only. Overlapping can cause breakage and a line of demarcation

Hair lighteners are used to create a light blond shade that is not achievable with permanent hair color alone, as well as to accomplish the following:

1. Lighten the hair prior to application of final color 2. Lighten hair to particular shade 3. Brighten and lighten an existing shade

Rules for effective color correction

1. Do not panic. Remain calm 2. Determine the nature of the problem 3. Determine what caused the problem 4. Develop a solution 5. Always take one step at a time 6. Never guarantee an exact result 7. Always strand test for accuracy

Hair is considered damaged when it has one or more more of the following characteristics

1. Rough texture 2. Overporous condition 3. Brittle and dry to the touch 4. Susceptible to breakage 5. No elasticity 6. Becomes spongy and matted when wet 7. Color fades too quickly or grabs to dark

Five basic questions that must always be asked when formulating a haircolor

1. What is the natural level, and does it include gray hair? 2. What is the level and tone of the previously colored hair? 3. What is the client's desire level and tone?

Let the client know what type of shampoo and conditioner is needed to maintain the color. Let them know how many weeks until they need to come back for another service

10. Finish completing the client's haircolor service record card

2. Process color according to your analysis and strand test results

3. Bringing permanent haircolor through the ends to refresh faded color can cause unnecessary damage to the hair, instead formulate a demi haircolor for the ends to match the new growth

Tips for covering gray hair. 1. Formulate at a level 6 medium-Blond and deeper for best gray coverage. 2. Use 20 volume developer always. 3. Process color for the full processing time, base on manufacturer's directions

4. Add neutral tones to the formula. 5. If 25% gray is present use 25% percent neutral or natural tones. 6. If 50% gray is present use 50% neutral or natural tones in formula. If 75% gray is present use 75% present neutral or natural tones in formula

1. Book 15 minutes extra for the consultation with a first time guest 2. Have the client fill out a client intake form. This allows you to compile a hair history and to note the type of color service the client is looking for 3. Begin consultation in area with proper lighting so you can accurately determine the client's current hair color. Walls should be white or neutral

4. Double check if this is what they want. Look in their eyes when asking. Keep the client on track by discussing the recent hair history. Over the past 6 months. Or as far as the length. Ask the following questions:

5. Recommend at least two different haircolor options and always offer the client more than what they are asking for 6. Be honest and don't promise more than you can deliver

7. Gain approval from the client 8. Start the haircolor service 9. Follow through during the service by educating and informing the client about home care, products and rebooking

4. Lighten only certain parts of the hair 5. Lighten dark natural or color-treated levels 6. Lighten previously colored hair

7. Lighten hair without simultaneously depositing color

Haircolor one word

A professional, industry-coined term referring to artificial haircolor products and services

Porosity

Ability to absorb moisture. Like a sponge yellow, square and porous is he

Red haircolor is exciting and fun but fading is common problem with color-treated red hair

Avoid orange or brassy tones when lifting brown hair with permanent color, always use a cool blue or green base. With brunettes

Retouch

As the hair grows you will need to apply haircolor to the new growth to keep it looking attractive and to avoid a two-toned effect

Applicator bottle

Be sure that the applicator bottle is large enough to hold both the color and developer, with enough air space to shake the bottle until the mixture is thoroughly mixed

Gray hair accepts the level of color applied. However level 8 of lighter colors may not give complete coverage

Because of the low concentration of dye found in these lightener colors

Grey is close to

Blue

Yellow red and orange are warm colors. Like the sun set on a beach

Blue green and violet are cool colors like the water at the beach

Lighteners

Chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment

Hair lightening or bleaching or decolorizing

Chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural hair color pigment or artificial hair color from the hair

Color is art plus science

Clients visit salon every 3 to 21 weeks

Color fillers are used on overly porous, pre-lightener hair to equalize porosity and provide a uniform contributing pigment that compliments the desired finished color

Color fillers accomplish the following goals: 1. Deposit color to faded ends and hair shaft 2. Help prepare hair to hold a final color by replacing missing building blocks 3. Prevent streaking and dull appearance 4. Prevent off-colo results 5. Produce more uniform, natural-looking color 6. Produce uniform color when coloring pre-lightened hair back to its natural color

High porosity

Color quickly. Also tends to fade quickly. Process darker and cooler. Cuticle is lifted open pine cone like

double-process application or two-step coloring

Coloring technique requiring two separate procedures in which the hair is pre-lightened before the depositing color is applied. Use this the achieve a very light, pale boned

Highlighting shampoo

Colors are prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo. They are used when a slight change in hair shade is desired, or when the client's hair processes very rapidly

Mixed melanin

Combination of natural hair color that contains both pheomelanin and eumelanin

First important step in establishing a relationship with your client and ensuring you are set up for success

Communicate with client of the color they want. Listen carefully. Take in all information so that you can make an appropriate haircolor.

Warm colors reflect more light than cool colors. Spear lighter and brighter

Cool colors absorb light. Look deeper than their actual level

Neutral

Cover grey. Equal amounts of cool and warm.

Cortex 80%. Middle layer has melanin

Cuticle 20%. Clear or transparent. Shine and protects

During the decolorizing process natural hair can go through as many as 10 stages

Decolorizing the hair's natural melanin pigment allows the colorist to create the exact degree of contributing pigment needed for the final result

Not all hair will go through all 10

Degrees of decolorization

Well water or chlorine can cause a green cast

Designed to remove the mineral buildup. You can apply a demipermanent color to neutralize any unwanted color that remains in the hair

Preliminary strand test

Determines how the hair will react to the color formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair. The strand test is performed after client is prepared for the coloring service

Texture

Diameter of hair strand.

Are you looking for a temporary or permanent change? Do you want color all over it just a few highlights? Do you see yourself with a more conservative or dramatic type of color?

Do you have any pictures of hair color you like or hair color you don't like? Have you ever colored your hair before? When was the last time you colored it?

Color filler

Equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment on pre-lightened hair.

If hair feels ruff is high porosity. Low porosity if it feels smooth

Extremely porous hair rejects warmth when color is applied and can process more quickly which is a result in deeper color

Secondary colors

Mixture is two primary colors. Orange, violet, green

Gray hair can be solid or blended throughout the head as in salt-and-pepper hair.

Gray hair requires special attention in formulating haircolor

Gray hair caused by reduction pigment in the cortical layer. Gray, white, and salt-and-pepper hair all have characteristics that present unique coloring challenges

Grey hair can turn yellow if the lightener used is not processed long enough. A great many salon coloring.

Cosmetologist should study and have a thorough understanding of haircoloring

Hair color services provide stylists and clients with an opportunity for creative expression and artistry

Level system

Hair levels are arranged on a scale of 1 to 10 with 1 being the darkest and 10 being the lightest

Clients increasingly ask for and require excellent haircoloring services to cover gray, to enhance their haircuts, and to camouflage face shape imperfections

Haircolor products employ strong chemical ingredients to accomplish services, so being aware of what these chemicals are and how they work will enable you to safely provide color services for your clients.

Double-process or two-step blonding

High-lift coloring, a technique to create light-blond hair in two steps. The hair is pre-lightened first and then toned

When you leave the room, do you want your friends to describe you as blond, a brunette, or red head? Have you had any other chemical services on your hair like a relaxer or keratin treatment? Is so, when?

How often do you want to be in the salon? Every two weeks or twice a year? Have you seen so-and-so's hair? That color would look great on you. How much money do you want to spend on haircolor today?

Oxidation

Hydrogen peroxide is mixed into the lightener formula, it begins to release oxygen. Process by which oxygen is released, and it occurs within the vortex of the hair shaft.

If you add yellow to blue than green is lighter

If you add red to yellow then orange is darker

Pre-softening

Is the process of treating gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color. Pre-softening raises the cuticle layer of the resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color

Base color is letter on box

Level is number on box

The structure of the client's hair and the desired results determine which hair color to use

Medulla has nothing to do with hair color

Pheomelanin

Melanin that gives blond and red colors to hair

Eumelanin

Melanin that lends black and brown colors to hair

Natural tones are warm. Sandy or tan

Neutral neither warm nor cool colors

Learning to identify a client's natural hair color is the most important step in becoming a good colorist.

Natural hair color ranges from black to dark brown to red, and from blond to light blond.

Glaze

Nonammonia color that adds shine and tone to the hair

Average porosity

Normal hair and process in an average time. Cuticle is slightly raised

Density

Number of hairs per square inch. Amount of color mix

Complimentary colors

Opposites on the color wheel and neutralize each other when combined. Red+green. Yellow+violet. Blue+orange

The toning process

Once hair is properly decolonized, the second step is to add soft tone back to the hair

One of the most creative, changing, and inspiring salon services is hair coloring.

One of the most lucrative areas in which a stylist can choose to work. Clients who have their hair colored usually visit the salon every three to twelve weeks

Negative skin test will show no sign of inflammation and indicates that the color may be safely applied

Positive result will show redness and slight rash or welt

Base color

Predominant tone of a color

Primary colors

Primary means first. Which is red blue and yellow.

Fine hair texture

Process faster than coarse hair. Resulting in cooler tones

single-process haircoloring

Process that lightens and deposits color in the hair in a single application.

double-process application includes the use of a lightener.

Products are designed to process up to 90 minutes on the scalp to achieve the desired lift

There are many methods of applying a temporary color, depending on the product used

Read manufacturer's directions to determine which to do

Hair color two words

Refers to the natural color of hair

Law of color

Relationship of one color to another.

Release statement is designed to protect the school or salon from responsibility for accidents or damages

Required for most malpractice insurance. Not a legally binding contract and will not clear the cosmetologist of responsibility for what happened to clients hair

Weaving technique

Selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of the comb, and lightener or color is applied only to these strands

The melanin granules in fine hair are grouped more tightly,

So the hair takes color faster and can look darker

Problems that can occur with gray hair that can develop a yellow cast can be caused by a variety of factors

Smoking, medication, sun exposure, hair spray and styling aids

Coarse textured hair has a larger diameter and loosely grouped melanin granules,

So it can take longer to process

Refresh faded color if hair appears dull and faded, mix demipermanent haircolor in the same tonal family as the haircolor formula

Stay within two levels of your formula. Apply all over and check frequently allowing a processing time up to 10 minutes

Natural light

Sun light

Slicing technique

Taking a narrow, 1/8-inch or 0.3 centimeter section of hair by making a straight part at the scalp, positioning the hair over the foil, and applying lightener or color

Patch test or predisposition test

Test for identifying a possible allergy in a client. Use the color you are using on them. Place behind he eat. Should be done 24 to 48 hours prior to each application

Tone or hue

The balance of color. Warmth or coolest of a color or neutral a color is.

Pre-lightening

The first step of double-process haircoloring, used to lift or lighten the natural pigment before the application of toner

Hair color consultation

The most critical part of a color service is the

When complimentary color are combined

The neutralize each other

Baliage also known as free-form technique

The painting of a lightener usually powdered off-the-scalp lightener directly to clean, styled hair

Hair cannot safely lifted past the pale yellow stage with lightener. The result of this when wet, the hair feels mushy and will stretch without returning to its original length

Then dry the hair is harsh and brittle. Such hair often suffers breakage and will not accept a toner properly

Natural color: Lightest Blond Level: 10

Undertones: Pale yellow Opposite on color wheel: Pale Violet

Skilled colorist will occasionally have a problem that can't be predicted

This may be due to the particular structure or condition of the client's hair

When you lighten natural hair color that darker the natural level the more intense the contributing pigment.

This must be taken into consideration before the haircolor selection is made

Over all haircolor is too light

To correct apply a demipermanent color that is one to two levels darker than the previous formula

Natural color: medium brown Level: 3

Undertones: Red Opposite on color wheel: green

Toners

Traditional semipermanent, demipermanent, permanent haircolor products that are used primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve place and delicate colors

Natural color: Dark Brown Level:2

Undertones: Red-Brown Opposite on color wheel: some green

Natural color: Light Brown Level: 4

Undertones: Red-Orange Opposite on color wheel: blue green

Gray hair presents special challenges when formulating demipermanent haircolor. Because there is no lift, the resulting depth of color when covering gray hair may appear too harsh

Unless you allow for some level lighter than the natural color is recommended, so that the gray hair looks somewhat highlighted against the natural color

Natural color:Black Level: 1

Undertones Dark Red-Brown Opposite on color wheel: Dark some Green

Natural color: Light Blond Level:8

Undertones Yellow-Gold Opposite on color wheel: Blue Violet Violet

Natural color: Medium Blond Level: 7

Undertones: Gold Opposite on color wheel: blue-Violet

Natural color: Lightest Brown Level: 5

Undertones: Orange Opposite on color wheel: Blue

Natural color: Dark Blond Level: 6

Undertones: Orange-Gold Opposite on color wheel: blue- blue Violet

Natural color: very Light Blond Level:9

Undertones: Pale Yellow Opposite one color wheel: Violet

Brush and bowl

Use a nonmetallic mixing bowl. Measure and add the developer into the bowl. Add the color or colors, the correct amounts. Then use a plastic whisk and stir

Release statement

Used by schools and many salons when providing chemical services. Explains the risk the client is taking by having you do whatever to their hair.

Contributing pigment. Undertone.

Varying degrees of warmth exposed when going lighter

Line of Demarcation

Visible line separating colored hair from new growth.

Cool colors. Platinum, smoky, ash, chocolate brown, mocha

Warm colors. Golden, warm, copper, caramel, honey, strawberry, Auburn, amber, brassy

Semipermanent colors do not contain the oxidizer necessary to lift, they only deposit color and do not lighten color.

When selecting a semipermanent color, remember that color and alters the tone

On-the-scalp lighteners

lighteners that can be used directly on the scalp by mixing the lightener with activators

Blue is darkest and deepest. Red is Medium color.

Yellow is lightest color

Damaged hair should receive reconditioning treatments both before

and after the application of these chemical services.

foil technique

involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightener or permanent haircolor, and then sealing them in the foil or plastic wrap for processing

highlighting

involves coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades and illusion of depth

Permanent color is applied by either the more professional bowl and

brush method or the applicator bottle always follow manufacturer's directions

three most frequently used methods

cap technique, foil technique, baliage or free-form technique

Cream lighteners are strong enough for high-lift blonding, but gentle enough to be used on the scalp

do not run or drip, overlapping is prevented during retouching services. Cream lighteners may be mixed with activators in the form of dry crystals. thickeners give more control during application. conditioning agents give some protection to the hair and scalp

Retouch is made to apply color to new growth and to refresh

faded ends also includes the application of a glaze

patch test

for allergies or other sensitivities 24 to 48 hours before each application. blot do not rub the strand

For those clients who are 80 or 100 percent gray, a hair color within the blond range is

generally more flattering than a darker shade

cream, oil, and some powder lighteners are used on-the-scalp because they are easy to apply

oil lighteners the mildest type, appropriate when only one or two levels lift are desired

new growth

part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been previously colored

off-the-scalp lighteners also known as quick lighteners

powdered lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp

activators also known as boosters, protinators, or accelerators

powdered persulfate salts added to haircolor to increase its lightening ability

Tertiary colors

primary + secondary. Yellow-green yellow-orange. Red-orange. Red-violet. Blue-violet. Blue-green

preliminary strand test

prior to lightening in order to determine the processing time, the condition of the hair after lightening, and the end results.

reverse highlights also known as lowlighting

the technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color

special effects haircoloring

to any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring

If client ask for a dramatically lighter color more than 4 levels the hair has

to be pre-lightened first