Clothing The Planet Chapters 1-5 TEST

Sizing

-First attempt at sizing: developed by grouping computed average circumference measurements of 15,000 women in a specific size categories -Sizes in RTW are based on 1. standardized body dimensions 2. company size standards 3. wearing and design ease *company may develop its own "company size" based on target customer ex. athletic fit= means suit built to fit the male body with larger chest-to-waist ex. own sizing scale at Chicos: 000, 00, 0, 0.5, 1-4 *Non-store retailing of fashion merchandise -developed consistent body measurements and related size measurements -fit can be determined through body measurements chart in a catalog -only related to RTW

Knitted fabrics and shrinkage

-Knitted fabrics have a higher potential for shrinkage than woven fabrics -Accepted standard is 5% for knits and 2% for woven fabrics -Snagging and pilling are major problems with knit garments

Production of RTW

-LABOR INTENSIVE -By 1900, approximately 500 shops in NYC were producing shirtwaists -Contracting system of production grew in popularity bc an investment of only 50$ was enough to start a business with a few workers and a bundle of cut garments production divided in 2 segments: 1. large number of sewing operations located in homes of immigrants producing lower priced garments 2. small number of large, modern sewing factories engaged in production of better quality garments -Many factory workers were immigrants -Introduction of sweatshops using cheap immigrant labor -Long hours, Low pay, Unclean and unsafe working conditions -Sewing factories primarily on LES of NYC was notorious for poor working conditions -At beginning of 20th century RTW was made form cotton and wool -silk fabric imported from France and Italy was highly desired for its luxurious qualities however too expensive and supply limited -Artificial silk was then first developed and patented in US...synthetic substitutes for natural fibers -Zipper was made during RTW industry..fatsen boots

Cotton

-Largest production -Obtained form the fibers surrounding the seed in a cotton plant -Plant grown best in warm climates and where irrigation is readily available -China, US, Pakistan, and India are 4 of largest cotton producers -Cotton industry has implemented a number of "environmentally cleaner" processes -naturally colored cotton -organic cotton -cleaner dyeing methods -reduced water use -significant amount of chemicals as well as water has led to criticism of cotton industry -Organic cotton has emerged as an environmentally responsible approach to growing cotton

Disadvantages of Partnerships

-Liability exposure: each partner is personally liable for debt of partnership regardless of which partner is responsible for incurring the debt -disagreement among partners in running business or setting up future direction of the business..often dissolve due to disagreement

So how do we know if a fabric has the performance, serviceability, aestheticsand durabilitywe want all for the priceour customer is willing to pay?What do you look at?

-Look at how fiber is made..start from beginning -To understand textiles we must understand the make-up Fiber Yarn Fabric Garment

Where do manufactured fibers originate?

-Manufactured fibers can be engineered from polymer solutions -Made from synthetic materials (examples: Nylon, polyester, olefin) -Manufactured fibers can be created from regenerated natural sources

Pure competition

-Many Producers -Many Buyers -Price is determined by market demand -when supplies are Hugh and demand is low then price decreases -when supplies are low and demand is high then price goes up -Ex.: Agricultural commodities (e.g., cotton or wool)

Textile Trade Shows

-May serve as inspiration for designers -Typically attended by product development and design professionals -General direction of textiles revealed (texture, colors, fabric weight, new textile innovations)

Mechanization of production (CONNECTED to cotton production)

-MechanizaƟon of the weaving process → increased demand for cotton. -Cotton growers in the south limited by the time needed to handpick seeds from cotton *1794-Eli Whitney patented the Cotton Gin for cleaning cotton. -Could clean as much cotton in one day as 50 men -This invention allowed cotton growers to supply New England's demand

What is a brand?

*A brand is defined as "an entity with a distinctive idea expressed in a set of functional and experiential features with a promise of a value reward relevant to its end user and in economic return to its producers (through the building or equity). *A successful brand has a strong identity (mentally and physically), is innovative, consistent, competitively positioned, and holds a matching positive image in the consumer's minds *Ex. Chanel, Nike, Zara *These brand names create images in minds of consumers-images that influence their decision to purchase the brand

Cashmere

-Comes from undercoat wool of cashmere goat -Worlds cashmere comes from China, Mongolia, and Tibet -China, Italy, and UK are largest buyers -considered luxury fiber because of its cost and is often blended with other less expensive wools -Demand for cashmere has grown in recent years as high end designers such as Burberry and Gucci have included cashmere products in their collection..consumer desire for soft fibers has increased

Mohair

-Comes from wool of Angora goats -Almost all of raw mohair fiber produced in US is exported for processing, primarily to China..bc US doesn't have equipment to process wool, cotton, and mohair...Cotton and wool are much bigger industries in US -Long fibers..4-6 inches long -therefore machinery designed to process cotton and wool cannot be used for mohair -worldwide production has declined

Direct Marketing channel

-Companies sell directly to consumers -EX. consumers may purchase goods directly from fashion company through catalogs or internet

Mechanization of production (north and south)

-Northeast continued to be the primary producer of wool fabrics -Cotton was grown in the south creating the Cotton belt: Virginia, North and South Carolina, Georgia, Texas, Alabama, Mississippi, and Florida -Manufacturers built textile mills in south so they could be close to this important source of cotton. -By 1847, more people were employed in textile mills than in any other industry in the US -The working conditions were as bad as those seen in England -took many years to improve pay and working conditions -Cotton mills were not happy places

Leather Production

-Obtained from skins and hides of cattle, goats, and sheep as well as a variety of reptiles, fish, and birds -Most skins and hides are by products of animals primarily raised for their meat or fiber -

Off grain

-Off-grain fabrics create problems in production & use Fabric quality is lowered •Fabrics don't drape well or hang evenly •Printed designs are not straight *In production can cause skew- when filling yarns are at angle other than 90 degrees to each other or problems with prints

Oligopsony

-Oligopsony exist when there are a small number of buyers for goods and services offered by a large number of sellers -Most often found in agricultural products, such as cocoa, when numerous growers sell to a limited number of buyers worldwide.

Leather continued..

-Once centered on: shoes, gloves, belts, handbags, luggage, and small leather goods and a few items of outerwear, such as jackets and coats •Were stiff, bulky, and primarily functional in appeal -Now designers offer colorful, supple designs including vests, jeans, pants, blazers, anoraks, skirts, and suits, in addition to jackets and coats •Endless colors now possible vs. prior to WW2

Interest in fashion has increased

-People are connected to fashion in a multitude of ways •Popular media/news• -A Reuters study finds "most Americans pay attention to fashion" •The poll found "68 percent of respondents think too much attention is paid to fashion" •It also found that "55 percent said how they dress is an important part of who they are" •Red carpet events •Political candidates •Music industry -fashion has become a drawing power for art museums

Performance

-Performance refers to the way a textile, textile component, or textile product responds when something is done to it or when it is exposed to some element in the environment that might adversely affect the textile -Textile products are designed to meet specific performance standards -Knowing how fibers perform will help you know how a garment constructed with different fibers should perform -EX. Different performance expectations for a jacket: Two jackets..totally different expectations..one keeps u from getting wet one helps you from burning

Leather

-considered natural fiber products created from pelts, skins, hides of various animals -NOT SPUN into yarns the constructed into fabrics. INSTEAD pelts are tanned to create supple and durable fabrics -Highly specialized industry -Time consuming to manufacture -Trends must be determined far in advance of other textile suppliers -Expensive -Other textile manufacturers look to the leather & fur industry for direction (color & texture) -Less politically charged than the fur industry *Multiple categories of leather -cows -horses -sheep -lambs -goats -Buffalo -Pigs -Deer -Kangaroo -Exotics •Tanneries process leather •Used for apparel and footwear dating back to Egyptian times

FUR

-considered natural fiber products created from pelts, skins, hides of various animals -NOT SPUN into yarns the constructed into fabrics. INSTEAD pelts are tanned to create supple and durable fabrics -Long before prehistoric people learned how to plant crops, weave cloth, or build shelters, they used fur •For rugs, covered and created walls, bringing some warmth into cold and drafty caves -By the Middle Ages, wearing fur announced one's wealth and status •Sable, marten, ermine, and fox were the favored furs of socialites and nobility -For centuries in northern Europe, furs were valued more than gold and silver

Limited Liability Companies (LLC)

-easy to form -LLC provides business owners with tax advantages(as with partnerships) along with limited liability(as with corporations) -required to have either the abbreviation LLC or the words limited liability company in their name. - Can be owned by a single individual or few members -smaller, medium, larger companies -Owners (called members), must create an operating agreement outlining: -How the company will be considered for tax purposes -How the company will operate -The outcome of the company if a member leaves the company *Examples: -Most common for doctors, lawyers, etc. -Seven for all mankind started in 2000 as an LLC (and sold for $775 million to VF Corporation in 2007) -Maidenform Brands LLC

Environmental practices

-goal of laws is to protect the environment from toxic pollutants -primary environmental laws, which are administered by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

Ready to Wear (RTW)

-most of the apparel and accessories produced and sold -merchandise that is ready to be worn when it is purchased -also called as pret-a-porter(French) or moda pronto (Italy) -made in large quantities through mass manufacturing infrastructures -One person is doing the pockets one person doing inner leg seam ..not cheap jeans..mass production RTW

Marketing Channels

-or routes that products follow to get to ultimate user -They consist of businesses that perform manufacturing, wholesaling, and retailing functions in order to get merchandise to consumer *Direct marketing channel, limited, and extended

Salon de couture

-private invite only showroom -clients will visit showroom after show -showroom of the couture designer

Fashion Forecasting firms

-research businesses that track trends and attitudes in consumers to determine what will evolve as the next prevail style How does fashion change? -Bc of fashion is EVOLUTIONARY and not revolutionary in its development, understanding the history of fashion enables researchers to predict the prevailing style Fur -As early as 11th century fur was worn as a symbol of wealth and social status not just for warmth -Then in 1950s and 60s..controversial Plaid -Plaid was big in the 1970s...when we hear the word "plaid" we think of 70s

haute couture

-term couture originated from "haute couture" (meaning high sewing) -in Paris at 19th century, apparel produced by dressmakers and tailors; custom fit each garment to the client -garment style and fabric were selected -garment was completed after one or more fittings during construction process so it fits like a glove -2o thousand to a million dollars

e-commerce

-the buying and selling of goods over the internet -With intro of e commerce in mid 1990s many companies began experimenting with online business *Mid 1990s -Retailers began conducting business online -first ever online sale: on the August 11, 1994 a man sold a CD by the band Sting to his friend through his website NetMarket, an American retail platform -Become easier and easier to conduct online transactions -Many companies have become internet retailers only (Amazon, Zappos)

Fashion

-the prevailing style (as in dress) during a particular time -"Style of consumer product or way of behaving that is temporarily adopted by a discernible proportion of members of a social group because that chosen style or behavior is perceived to be socially appropriate for time and situation" -products from cars to shoes..not only concerned with apparel -Fashion can be seen almost everywhere from cars to food. -In this class...apparel, footwear, accessories and home fashions.

Couture designer is distinguished by..

-uses high quality fabrics -creates original design -uses high quality construction and hand fishing details -custom fits the garment to a clients body measurements

Extended

-wholesalers acquire products from manufacturers and make them readily available to buyers OR -Intermediate buy products from wholesalers at special rates and make them available to retailers. Intermediaries are sometimes referred to as jobbers -used In distribution of many basic items such as t shirts, underwear, and hosiery -bc of increase time involved this type of marketing channel is seldom used for fashion goods that companies want to get to consumer quickly as possible

Growth of RTW

-women's RTW industry did not expand until late nineteenth century -First types of women's RTW: outerwear capes, cloaks, coats bc they fit more loosely than fashionable dresses..sizing not critical -women also accepted manufactured corsets, petticoats, and other underwear items bc this was hidden from public view -Beginning of 20th Century: BOOM OF RTW industry..RTW skirts and blouses were offered for sale -Styles popularized by the illustration of Charles Dana Gibson "Gibson Girl"..shifted women's apparel production from a craft industry to a factory based industry

By late 1990s...QR strategies been adopted by large and small companies..3 types of apparel companies made up supply chain for soft goods

1.Companies that performed almost all of their own manufacturing, from yarn or fabric to finished garment 2. Companies that had a particular niche within industry..performing specific manufacturing operations such as manufacturing yarns 3. Companies involved in the design, marketing, and distribution of apparel but contracted sewing operations to other companies

Cotton Process

After cotton is picked..COTTIN GIN is used to separate fiber, called cotton lint, from seeds. SEEDS are a valuable by product of cotton industry..used to produce cattle feed and cottonseed oil. Cotton lint is then packed into large bales and shipped to yarn and textile mills. Spinning process of cotton is highly automated; cotton fibers are cleaned carded, and combed and the drawn and spun to create yarns

Serviceability

Serviceability: measure of a textile product's ability to meet consumers' needs -Aesthetics -Durability Comfort -Safety -Appearance retention -Care -Environmental concerns -Sustainability -Cost

Four basic components of textile production

Fiber processing Yarn spinning fabric production/fabrication fabric finishing

Need to knows about fibers

Fibers have different properties, including (but not limited to): -Length to width ratio -Fiber uniformity -Fiber strength and flexibility -Fiber elasticity -Moisture retention -Thermoplasticity

Product Cost

Fibers impact cost considerations: •Can the product be made for a reasonable cost? •Can it be sold at a profit? •Are you designing or buying something customers will pay for? EX. Silk $20-$80 per yard vs. Polyester $1.00 a yard and up• Wool suiting $10-15 a yard and up vs. polyester/acrylic suiting blend $5/yard

Competitive Situations or Market Forms

Five primary competitive situations (types of markets): 1. Monopoly 2. Oligopoly 3. Oligopsony 4. Pure Competition 5. Monopolistic Competition *A company must create a perceived difference between its product and the competition's products

End-use product categories for accessories

Footwear, Hosiery and legwear, Hats and headwear, Scarves, Belts, Handbags, Gloves, Jewelry

In order to become Chambre Syndicale

one should have -the use of ones house seamstress -the presentation of fall/winter and spring/summer collections each year with at least 35 pieces for day and evening - Adherence to the dates of showing set by the Chambre Syndicale - Registration of the original designs to protect against copying

peer-to-peer (P2P)

online retail platform for individual crafters such as etsy -provides platform for individual crafters to sell their product without the expense of maintaining their own website or store

Fabric construction or Fabrication

processes include the following methods to make fabrics -from solutions(films, foams) -Directly from fibers (felt, non woven fabrics) -from yarns (braid, knitted fabrics, woven fabrics, lace)

multichannel retailing

providing multiple distribution channels for consumers to buy a product -online retailing important component of many retailers multichannel approach *once multichannel =a store and a catalog (Multiple channels) -Now Transitioned to Store and website

omnichannel distribution

retail formats are integrated to create a seamless shopping experience for consumer Ex. consumer may research a fashion using a smartphone..purchase item through company website using laptop then pick it up in physical store

Limited marketing channel

retailers survey the various fashion brand companies and select merchandise that they believe their customers will want -Retailers serve as gatekeepers by narrowing the choices for consumers and providing them access to merchandise -most typical -Retailers might also arrange for production of specific goods(private label merchandise) that they then make available to their costumers

Boutique

store

Logistics

term used to describe the processes of coordinating these interconnected activities

Bias

the 45 degrees of the warp and filling and has the most stretch in a woven fabric

Price Zones

based on suggested retail price of the approximate wholesale price of the merchandise 1. luxary or designer -Most expensive -salons such as Dolce and Gabbana and Gucci -collections of name designer brands 2. bridge/diffusion/ contemporary -traditionally fall between designer and better price zones -D and gabbana, Eileen fisher, Ralph Lauren 3. Better -nationally known names -Michael Kors(Macys line), banana republic -Moderate -nationally known sportswear brand -less expensive lines of companies that produce better merchandise -EX. gap 4. Budget or mass -found primarily at mass merchandisers and discount stores -old navy

CONVENTIONAL marketing channels

consist of independent companies that separately perform the designing, manufacturing, and retailing functions

Charles Frederick Worth

"Father of Haute Couture" -Contributed to the establishment of Paris as birthplace and capital of couture -Worth's Clients', Napoleon III emperor, and his wife Eugénie, (a trendsetter) insisted on high fashion that mirrored the fashion demands of the late 18th cen.

1980s and 90s

*1980's and 90's saw designers, vertical integration, store-is-brand concept (Nike, Eddie Bauer, etc.)...increase in vertical integration *Fashion brands expanding retail store operations *Department store entering into partnerships with manufacturers and contractors to produce private label merchandise for their stores -Vertical Integration: Business strategy whereby companies control several steps of the design, production, marketing, and or distribution -Store is brand: store only offers merchandise with the store name as its brand (Known as SPAs) EX. VS *During 80s, certain segments of industry were affected by continual growth of textiles and apparel imports -Stores such as Nike were producing merchandise worldwide to obtain best labor price for production -Concerns about rising labor costs in US and increase in imports ...led to examine ways to produce productivity of US fashion industries -Textile and apparel industry analysts to analyze industry inefficiencies -Quick Response

Vertical Integration

*2 or + stages of production undertaken by 1 company as opposed to separate companies. *Practice where a single entity controls the entire process of a product, from the raw materials to distribution -Francis Cabot sets stage for vertical integration in US

Sustainability and Environmental Concerns with Manufactured Fibers

-Chemical usage and spills -Often high energy usage -Biodegradability of some is an issue (polyester, spandex, nylon) •20-200 years to biodegrade!

Sole proprietorship

*A common form of business ownership in which an individual, the sole proprietor, owns the business and its property. *From a legal standpoint, the owner and the business are indistinguishable, hence the unlimited liability (the owner is liable for any business debts. *any profit from the business in considered personal income of the sole proprietor *owner is personally liable for any debt the business may incur *Person is 100% liable Advantages: +obtaining needed license is fairly easy and easy to dissolve +control and flexibility given the sole proprietor Disadvantages: -sole proprietor is personal liable for business debts..if business owes money..creditors can take all business and personal assets such as owners home to pay debts for business -bc they have no partner they need to have expertise in all areas of running a business (handle design aspect, work with fabric suppliers, deal with accounting) -Raising capital or funds to start or expand a business can be hard as a sole proprietor..may be obtained by tapping into personal funds, purchasing goods to services on credit, borrowing money, borrowing money *Examples: tend to be small companied whose resources and complexities can be handles by owner -Freelance textile or apparel designer -Independent sales representative who sells apparel lines to retailers -An independent retailer who owns a small specialty store

Conglomerate

*A diversified company, typically corporations that are involved with significantly different lines of business *For example, - VF Corporation manufactures clothes and backpacks - Liz Claiborne manufactures clothes and perfumes

Aesthetics

*A fiber's physical properties impact aesthetics, such as: Cover-ability of a fiber to conceal or protect Drape-the manner in which a fabric hangs over a form Luster-sheen caused by light reflected from a fiber's surface *Fabric can impact how a garment appeals to the target market

Continued..Patents

*A patent grants property to the inventor which includes "the right to exclude others from making, using, offering for sale, or selling the invention in the United States or importing the invention in the United States" (U.S. Patent and Trademark Office, 2015). * Exclusive right for 20 years. *Can you acquire a patent for garments designs? - Patents cannot be acquired for garment designs per se. -From a legal perspective, products must be new inventions or technological advancements in product design. -In textile, apparel, and home fashions industries, patents can be acquired for technological advancements in textile processing, apparel production, or in products themselves. -Ex., Globally, Nike owns 19,500 patents -Consequences? Patent owners can sue for patent infringement

Laws affecting companies in the fashion industries

*A variety of laws can affect companies in the fashion industries. These can be included under the following main areas: a.Laws Protecting Fashion Inventions and Designs b.Federal Laws Related to Business Practices and International Trade •Laws related to how a company must run its business, including requirements concerning fair competition, international trade, environmental practices, consumer protection, and employment practices.

1940s historical background

*Although WWII devastated fashion industry in France, Paris emerged once again after war as prominent player in international fashion industry -However, war allowed American designers become well known along consumers *After the war: -Many women stopped working & returned to the home -Baby boom -Family orientation was emphasized -Family travel increased -clothes bought abroad *All these changes helped to create emphasis on more informal or casual styles -Department stores expanded sportswear sections for men, women and teens. -US became known as sportswear capital -Shopping malls supplemented and later replaced, downtown department stores..people moving out of cities to suburbs *Television → more people could see current fashions -1948 -TV became commercially available to the American public *Movie stars are fashion influencers *

Types of Corporations

*C corporations (regular corporations) •Double taxation if dividends are paid *S corporations...becoming more common •Pass-through entity (taxation at personal level, no corporate level; business itself isn't taxed)..eliminating double taxation *B Corporations (benefit corporations) •Include a purpose of general public benefit such as social or environmental benefit -Ex. Patagonia - This corporation is a major contributor to a number of environmental causes and organizations

Fibers

*Comprise the basic unit used in making textile yarns or fabrics *the smallest component, hair-like in nature, that can be separated from a fabric -Fibers can be classified into generic families according to their chemical composition and can be divided into 2 primary divisions 1. natural manufactured/ man made

Couture Fashion terms

*Couture house: each designers business -Versace -Louis Vuitton -Gucci *Couturier/head of house: haute couture designer -may not be known -EX. for Versace=Donatella Versace -EX. For Gucci= Alessandro Michele

Fashion calendar

*Fashion brand companies typically produce 4-6 new collections or lines per year -Spring, summer, fall 1(pre fall) , Fall 2, Holiday, resort -seasons the consumers were most likely to wear the specific merchandise -The number of lines a company produces depends on: 1. product category 2. target market: group of designated customers For example: Mens tailored suits -Fall, spring VS. Mens sportswear: Fall 1, Fall 2, Holiday, spring, summer

Manufactured fibers

*Fibers are made in manufacturing facilities; Original form not recognizable as a fiber -natural fibers have been around for thousands of years..manufactured have been around for only 120 years -Natural fibers were the main source of fibers used for clothing until the early 1900's THEN -Rayon, invented in 1846, first manufactured in the United States in 1911. -Nylon was the first fully synthetic fiber, developed by Wallace Carothers, an American researcher at the chemical firm DuPont in the 1930s.

Durability

*Fibers used in the fabric determine how durable a garment will be •Flexibility-bend repeatedly without breaking •Pilling-formation of tiny balls of fiber on fabric surface •Abrasion resistance-ability to withstand rubbing and folding

Continued...trademark

*What does the term "trademark" (or trade name) stands for? WORD, PHRASE, symbol or design or a combination or words, phrases, symbols or designs that identifies and distinguishes the source of the goods of party from those of others *What are "service marks"? -Similar to trademarks but refer to identifications for services *A trademark registered through the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office or through the Secretary of State in a state (for products that are used in inter-state commerce), and use the ® symbol *Trademarks/trade names may not be generic terms such as trouseror dress.

High fashion V Mass Fashion

*High fashion = new style accepted by a limited number of fashion leaders who want to be the first to adopt changes and innovate *Usually introduced and sold in small quantities at relatively high prices. *These styles may be limited because they are too sophisticated or extreme to appeal to the needs of the general public, or because they are priced well beyond the reach of most people. -If the style appeals to a broader audience, it is generally copied, mass-produced, and sold at lower prices. **Mass Fashion -styles that appeal to the greatest majority of fashion-conscious consumers. -Usually produced and sold in large quantities at moderate to low prices. -Mass fashion accounts for the majority of sales in the fashion business.

Supply Chain Management

*Important element in successful fashion companies operations

Trademarks continued...

*In the fashion industry, registered trademarks and trade names are widespread. Among them are: -Trade names of manufactured fibers (e.g., Lycra® spandex, Dacron® polyester) -Trade names of natural fiber associations and companies (e.g., Cotton Inc.'s cotton symbol, Wool Company's Woolmark symbol) -Fashion brand names - the official name of a brand (e.g., Levi's Dockers®, 7 for all Mankind®) -Trademarks of fashion brands - element distinctive of the brand (e.g., Nike's swoosh, the stitching on the back pocket of Levi's Jeans, Burberry's distinctive plaid)

Knock Offs

*Knock-offs ≠Counterfeit goods *What's the difference -Counterfeit goods are designed to so closely resemble the original product as to be virtually identical to it -When you buy a knock off puma slipper at forever 21 you know you are not buying the puma fuzzy slipper..forever 21 slipper not claiming or pretending to be the puma slipper -A knockoff may resemble another product, but does not contain any identical logos or federally registered brand names. -In general, knockoffs don't necessarily violate trademark law. -A counterfeit product, on the other hand, uses a brand name or logo that is identical or nearly identical to a registered trademark, which is illegal under trademark law. - A facsimile of an existing garment/product that sells at a lower price than the original. - The copy might be made in a less expensive fabric and might have some design details modified or eliminated. EX. Burberry vs. Wet Seal -Burberry Prorsum costing over $5,000.00 -Wet Seal knock off for $30.00..not claiming to be the Burberry dress -Balmain crystal studded sandals($2,300) versus Bebe Marianna platform sandals ($169)

Which brands are owned by these conglomerates?

*LVMH(Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey): Louis Vuitton,Givenchy, DKNY, Christian Dior, Kenzo, Fendi, Célin, Emilio Pucci, Marc Jacobs, BVLGARI, Benefit Cosmetics *Kering/PPR GUCCI•Saint Laurent•Alexander McQueen•Stella McCartney•Balenciaga•Bottega Veneta•PUMA•Volcom•Brioni

Monopoly

*Monopoly is when one company dominates the market. -Ex.: Whole Foods buying out Wild Oats in 2009 -reduces compettion

Corporations

*Most complex form of business ownership → legal entity that exists regardless of who owns them * Created by filing articles of incorporation (also known as articles of organization or articles of association) with the state or federal government *Designated by the words Corporations, Corp., or Inc. * Unlike a sole proprietorship or partnership, ownership of a corporation is held by stockholders (or shareholders), who own shares of stock in the corporation -EX. if someone owns 50% of stock then they own 50% of company -IF company fails..stockholders are not liable for corporations debt beyond their investment in companies stock *Stockholders elect a board of directors (chief governing body of the corporation - they plan the direction of the company and set policies) *The board of directors hire the corporate officers such as president, chief executive officer (CEO), chief financial officer (CFO). These officers are the ones that run the business. *Profits are paid in form of DIVIDENDS which are taxed as personal income -difficult to form

Are fashion brand classifications mutually exclusive?

*NO, fashion brands can fall into one or more of these categories. *For example, a luxury brand can also be classified as a lifestyle brand. *EX. balenciaga sneakers both luxury and lifestyle

Types of corporations..continued

*Publicly traded corporations (or publicly held corporations) -Tend to have a large number of stockholders who buy and sell their stocks on the public market *Privately held corporations (also called private corporations, closely held corporations, or close corporations) •Those in which a smaller number of individuals own the shares. The stock is NOT available in public markets and has NOT been issued for public purchase. **Main difference: ownership and transferability of shares of stock**

Textile Testing & Quality Assurance

*Samples of textile materials are examined closely for a variety of characteristics and standards including but not limited to: •Breaking strength •Tearing strength •Abrasion resistance •Colorfastness (sunlight, washing, crocking) •Chemical resistance •Flammability resistance •Pilling propensity

1940s-1950s dress

*Significant change in 1947: called "The New Look" -Dior changed sihoulette -Accentuated waistline..full skirt *Undergarments -Women returned to more confining underclothing although not with the rigid, painful bones and lacing of the early 20th century. *Brassieres ("bras")provided an uplift look -For strapless evening dresses -strapless bras available *A waist cinch or a long line strapless brassiere, called a Merry Widow, worn to make the waist smaller. *Maternity Dress -As the birth rate rose following the war, maternity styles began to look more fashionable -Influenced by TV shows•Ex.: "I Love Lucy" (1951 -1957)..first to show pregnant woman on TV *Bikinis appeared in Europe, but were not well accepted in the US -One-or two-piece suits that covered most of the body *Stiletto heel introduced *By the mid 1950's there are signs of a new silhouette, as the New Look fades -Looser Fit, Chemise, A-line trapeze (1958) - Resistance to unfitted styles; by mid 1960s was almost universally worn, thus becoming the dominant silhouette

Limited Partnership

*Sometimes individuals want to join or invest in a partnership but DO NOT want to have unlimited liability for partnership debt that may be larger than their investment *This can be achieved through limited partnership *Limited partner has limited liability-he or she is liable only for the amount of capital that he or she invested in business -establishing limited partnerships can be very attractive way for general partners to raise capital *does not take an active role in managing the business

1960s

*Synthetic fibers begin to overtake Natural fibers in popularity *Plastic used extensively and heat fusion techniques were developed *Silhouette -Unfitted *Mid 1960s -Miniskirtis introduced into mainstream fashion -miniskirts were two inches above the knee -The silhouette becomes more streamlined and hard-edged -A youthful, boyish figure was the ideal *Twiggy -Her slim figure and short, boyish hair represented youthfulness and the freedom characteristic of the 60s -First supermodel who appeared in the covers of Vogueas well as many other fashion publications *First lady Jackie Kennedy (60s) in the Chemise suit style with her trademark pillbox hat Note:•Gloves•Low heels with little bows•Handbag *Art movements influenced late 1960s fashion included •Pop Art(Popular Art) -Featured glorified representations of ordinary objects such as soda cans and cartoon figures -Artist used everyday objects as subjects of their art

1950s

*Teenage fashion developed in 1950s -reached its peak during youth explosion of 1960s, when mass fashion became more affordable -Mass fashion focused on simplified styling and sizing *By 1950s acrylic and polyester were available in US *Apparel with synthetic fibers offered customer -easy care, wrinkle free, drip dry clothing that freed them from high demands of caring for cotton and woolen clothing -lower cost and lighter weight alternatives *Nylon stretch socks became available then nylon stretch pants

Bespoke

*Term used when couture techniques are applied to custom made suits or other specialty items -using couture tailoring to fit garment to client..more fitted not same level as couture

Fur continued..

*The Truth in Fur Labeling Act (2010) after retailers were fined for selling real fur masquerading as faux, or trying to pass off ferret as mink *The West Hollywood Fur Ban (2013) banned all retailers in West Hollywood from selling, trading, or distributing any products made of fur •was one of the first of its kind in the United States -In 2015, 73 percent of the 436 fashion shows in New York, Paris, Milan, and London featured fur!

1930s

*The great depression-the stock market collapsed 1929 -Unemployment was widespread -American farmer strongly affected -Labor movement → Unionization advanced -Repercussions were felt in Paris, as US retail stores cancelled orders overnight -severe blow to textiles and apparel industries -NY has 3,500 dress companies by 1933 there were 2,300 -1933, Germany: Adolf Hitler came into power -1939: WWII begins when Germany invaded Poland -War production ends Depression -US involvement in the war meant wartime restrictions, but also production of weaponsand other goods, which puts people to work and essentially put an end to the Depression *however, 1930s brought about development of first synthetic fiber synthesized from all chemicals -Nylon is first synthetic fiber -however nylon production was interrupted by war so widespread popularity didn't come until later *Also became more common for manufacturers to use other companies known as contractors and subcontractors for some of sewing operations

Federal Laws Related to Business Practices & International Trade

*These are laws related to how a company must run its business. *Fair Competition -established to assure fair competition

Mens 1920s, 30s, and 40s

*Throughout the decades, men's suits maintained the basic elements → jacket, vest, and trousers -Only minor changes -The silhouette was -Narrow in the 20s -Wide in the 30s -Narrow again during 40s and WWII *Men's hair was short *Hats included straw boaters and fedoras *Popular footwear styles include the Oxford.

Trademark continued..

*Trade dress: subset of trademark law - protects the overall look or image of a product itself or the packaging of a product, provided that the overall look or combination of features has come to identify the manufacturer of the product **INSTEAD of protecting identifying words or logos..law of trade dress protects overall look or image of product itself or packaging of product *** -Two categories: 1. Product packaging -Tiffany & Co. -Coca-Cola Bottle 2. Product design -More difficult to find in the fashion industry given that this requires that the design itself has secondary meaning and that consumers associate the design with the brand -Christian Louboutin's distinct red soled shoes had come to represent the brand in consumers minds and therefore were appropriately protected under trade dress law

1960s backround

*US Social Movements included: •Anti-War•US was at war in Vietnam---widespread opposition across the nation and antiwar demonstrations on many American college and university campuses. *Civil Rights•1963 -Martin Luther King Jr. and his famous speech "I have a dream" speech-A message of equality among races. •Assassinated on 1968 in Tennessee, 39 years old *Social Movements continued.. *Environmental Movement -Many began focusing on air and water pollution -Movement to preserve the environment *Women's movement• -Many American women began to question traditional values -Some feminists in the 60s saw clothing as symbol of oppression. *"Style Tribes" (sub-cultures) - Groups of mostly young people who have the same interests and wear the same kinds of clothing. Their styles began to influence fashion. -Examples: *Mods- Young people from Britain that were "up for love, self-expression, poetry..." -At the core of mod fashion was the idea that males as well as females were entitled to wear handsome and dashing clothing. *Hippies- Movement surfaced in California in 1966 •Their philosophy stressed "love" and freedom from the constraints of "straight" society. -Commonalities in dress: -Men: Long hair, beards, headbands, and love beads Women: Long skirts and gypsylike costume. No bras.

1980s and 90s dress

*Unisex clothing available -clothing for men and women that was interchangeable in appearance (e.g., blue jeans, tailored shirts, t-shirts, sweatshirts) -The taboo against wearing clothing styles traditionally assigned to the opposite sex broke down, and the social norms that required clear differences in men's and women's clothing eroded. -Mini skirt returns but with a tighter fit (stretch fabrics) -Bustier: Underwear as outerwear popularized by Madonna *80s..heavier makeup and big hair *90s -During 90s it had become more difficult to identify any one "look" or predominant silhouette. •Style diversificationis the key element - "anything goes" -Individuals were likely to dress in styles acceptable to their peers --Fashions came and went quickly -Skirts -many different lengths -Full short skirts appeared

Acquisitions

*When one company (A) acquires another (B) and assumes ownership of company B's assets and liability for all of company B's debts. EX. amazon and Whole Foods EX. Microsoft and LikedIN EX. Coach and Stuart Weitzman

Merger

*When two companies blend to form a new company. *A + B = C *E.g., Heinz and Kraft Foods Group = The Kraft Heinz Company (2015) *typically take place between companies of equal size *Sears and Kmart

Quick Response(QR)

*comprehensive business strategy that promotes responsiveness to consumer demand, encourages business partnerships, and shortens the business cycle from raw materials to the consumer *Increase efficiencies -Change from the push system of the past -In contrast with push system...QR was a pull system *Pull system: Demand-side strategies that are based on the flow of timely and accurate information about consumers' wants and needs from consumers to the manufacturers. QR strategies: -increased speed of design and production through use of computers -increased efficiency with which companies communicate and conduct business with one another -Reduced amount of time goods are in warehouse transit -decreased amount of time needed to replenish stock on retail floor

Natural Fibers

*fibers grown or developed in nature in recognizable forms -made from natural PROTEIN FIBERS from ANIMAL origins -EX. Wool, cashmere, camel, mohair, Angora, silk) -natural CELLULOSE FIBERS from PLANT origins -EX. cotton, flax, jute, bamboo, sisal

Textile Mill

*manufacturing facility where different types of fibers such as yarn or fabric are produced and processed into usable products (clothes, sheets & towels, etc). •Companies can purchase large quantities of fabric direct from mills -Once mill jobs were labor-intensive, now modern facilities are machine-heavy operations.

Marketing Channel Integration

*the process of connecting the various levels of marketing channels so that they work together to provide the right products to consumers in the right quantities, in the right place, and at the right time *A marketing channel connects the companies within it in several streams, including: -Physical flow, Ownership flow or title flow,Information flow, Payment flow, Promotion flow -Each stream relates to specific functions that companies perform throughout the marketing channel *Integration can be created through CONVENTIONAL marketing channels or VERTICAL marketing channels

Advantages of Corporations

+Limited liability of the owners(stockholders) -If corporation fails, creditors cannot seize the stockholders personal assets to pay corporate debt -This is why two or more individuals may decide to create a private corporation rather a partnership +Flexibility and ease when transferring ownership -does not cease to exist if one of owners withdraws or dies -shares simply transferred to heirs or sold -stockholders are free to sell their stock at any time +Management of corporation does not depend on ownership..management group runs day to day operations regardless of who owns business that day +Large corporations for employee advancement in organization..advance in ranks

Advantages and Disadvantages of LLC

+provides members with limited liability thus offering business owners a safer option +May be taxed like a sole proprietorship, partnership, or corporation +Number of member is unlimited +less paperwork less formality than corporations bc don't require board of directors, annual meetings, or accounting requirements -Without operating agreement, operations of LLC may be ambiguous -fees may be higher than a sole proprietorship to establish it..additional paperwork to add members

Advantages of Partnership

+relatively easy to establish +partners can pool their expertise and resources to run company +raising capital is somewhat easier +advancement opportunities for employees are greater..employees may be given opportunity to become partners in business

Design

- design is a particular interpretation or version of a specific style. -A style may be expressed in many designs, all different, yet all related because they are in the same style. •Examples? -Many different designs of jacket -A trench coat is a distinctive style, but within that style, variations may include different types of necklines, pockets, and sleeves---therefore differentdesigns. WHY? -Manufacturers and retailers usually assign numbers (or names) to each individual design produced. -identifies it for manufacturing, ordering, and selling purpose

Fads

-A fashion that suddenly sweeps into popularity, affects a limited part of the total population, and then quickly disappears •often begin in lower price ranges, and are relatively easy to copy EX. juicy couture copied jump suits

Fashion continued

-A style does not become fashionable until it gains some popular acceptance. -It remains in fashion only as long as it is accepted.

Textiles

-A term originally applied only to woven fabrics -now generally applied to any flexible material that is composed of fibers, yarns, or fabrics or products made of films, fibers, yarns, or fabrics -any product made from fibers

Trend

-A trend is a general direction or movement •For example, a trend toward shorter skirts means: •several designers, including some leading ones, are showing shorter skirts •leading retailers are buying them •fashion-forward customers are wearing them

Basic Properties of Cellulosic Fibers

-Absorbent -Heat resistant -Low resiliency -Eaten by crickets & silverfish -Damaged by mildew/mold -Flammable

How are manufactured fibers made?

-All manufactured fiber-spinning processes are based on three general steps: 1. Preparing a thick solution 2) Forcing or extruding the dope through an opening in a spinneret to form a fiber 3) Solidifying the fiber by coagulation, evaporation, or cooling

Mechanization of production (Weaving)

-Although the spinning process was becoming mechanized, the weaving process continued to be contracted out to individual hand weavers. *1813 - Francis Cabot Lowell invented the power loom in USA Invention led to vertical integration of the US textile industry -Mechanically performed all processes from spinning the yarn to producing cloth under one roof. *

Color Forecasting

-An essential part of the trend forecasting industry •Published up to two years in advance of each season -Recommendations will influence the colors and finishes we're likely to see on a wide variety of products (appliances, cars, phones, paints, beverage cans, etc) -Select a color of the year -Numerous color forecasting services exist •Donegargroup •Promostyl •International ColourAuthority -Classic colors vs. fashion colors

Basic properties of Synthetic fibers

-Chemical resistant -Heat sensitive or thermoplastic -Oleophilic: friend of oils -Static electricity: soil and lint cling, can cause problems in production and use -Resilient -Resistant to insects and mildew -Low density

Fast Fashion

-Consumers are demanding high quality and fashion forward products at reasonable prices -This ultrafast supply chain that focuses on consumer demand is known as FAST FASHION -Fast fashion companies continuously introduce new product in small quantities with little to no replenishment -EX. Zara, Forever 21, H and M, Charlotte Rousse Zaras success depends upon.. 1. vertical integration(controlling many stages of supply chain) 2. designer working alongside production planners and market specialists 3. Making design and production based decisions based on consumer demand 4. offering consumers limited quantities of multiple styles of merchandise 5. ability to produce merchandise in weeks instead of months -Zara Can design and produce a garment a nd distribute it to a retailer in just 15 days -Relies on CONSTANT communication among all elements of companies supply chain -Fast Fashion has created an expectation among consumers of always seeing something new in store or on Internet Slide: -Fast supply chain -Design to production to sales floor in a 2 week time period (rather than months) -New products introduced continually, even weekly -Little to no replenishment -designers working alongside production and marketing -Fashions are based on consumer demand -Quality and prices = low -Contributes to excessive waste in apparel industry

omnichannel retailing

-Consumers now expect this -seamlessly integrates bricks-and-mortar and online operations -a multichannel approach to sales that seeks to provide a seamless shopping experience to customers whether they are shopping online from a desktop or mobile device, by telephone, or in a brick-and-mortar store -EX. Nordstrom being able to return JcPenny and Macys items *Omnichannel= seamless experience no matter where you shop -Store -Online (computer) -Mobile phone/tablet

What's brand identity?

-Controlled by the company -Includes all means by which a company portrays the brand a communications with the consumer -It is determined through the process of brand positioning -Fashion companies strive to create a positive and strong brand identity through marketing and advertising efforts.

Copyrights

-Copyrights protect a number of written, pictorial and performed works, including literature, music, films, TV shows, artworks, etc. The copyright holder has the exclusive right to use, perform, or reproduce material for the life of the author plus 70 years or for 95 years of works of the corporate authorship. - all works published Before 1923 - public domain. -Reproduction of material protected by copyright without permission is considered infringement. - Garment styles are NOT protected by copyright laws - However, original textile prints and graphic designs can be protected. -The copyright must be registered with the Copyright Office of the U.S. Library of Congress and the designer should put a copyright notice © in the selvage of the fabric

Counterfeit Goods

-Counterfeits are claiming to be that brand -Goods bearing unauthorized registered trade names or trademarks -Typically, lower quality than the authentic merchandise and sold at a fraction of the price of genuine merchandise -Consumers desire for fashion merchandise with well known and visible trade names and trademarks has led to counterfeit goods -Counterfeiters exploit consumer awareness and trust of brand image by producing low quality merchandise and they do not pay royalties to the companies that may have spent millions creating awareness and trust

What's brand image?

-Created by consumers -Consumers create a brand image in their minds based on their experiences with the brand and their attention and interpretation of the company's marketing and advertising efforts *Think of favorite brand..what is brand image for this brand?

Wool

-Derived from fleece of a sheep, goats, alpacas, and llamas -biggest producers: Australia, New Zealand, UK -China and Italy are biggest buyers -Minor role in US textiles production _most wool comes from specific breeds of sheep: Delaine-Merino, Rambouillet, Hampshire, and Suffolk -Bc wool growers often produce small amounts of wool, wool pools and warehousing operations are common -wool fabrics are often processed by the same company that processes the fiber -Natural sheep colors are often sought out: cream, browns, blacks, grays

Working Conditions

-Efforts to improve working conditions let to the formation of the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union(ILGWU) -11 years later... → Triangle Shirtwaist Co. Fire -March 25, 1911 nearing closing time a fire broke out at the Triangle Shirtwaist Co. which employed 500 workers mostly young immigrant women, many of them as young as 15 years old -146 died *Brought public attention to the horrid working conditions while increasing support for ILGWU

Employment practices

-Enacted to assure fair hiring and employment practices among companies; regulate child labor and home work and to prohibit discrimination based on race, national origin, sex, age, or physical disability

Consumer Protection

-Enacted to protect the health and safety of consumers -These laws require companies to label the fiver content and care procedures of products truthfully and to prohibit companies from selling flammable products

Why is fashion important?

-Fashion is and has and will be through all ages the outward form through which mind speaks to universe -what you wear is how you represent yourself to world -fashion is insane language

Why is Fashion important

-Fashion reacts to and reflects what is going on in the world -It is economically very important -fashion industry employs people worldwide -Fashion is the ability to change or shape lives through its personal connection to us all -Fashion is one of greatest economic forces -fashion determines what people buy Change in fashion is often motivating factor for replacing clothes etc

Fur Controversy

-Fashion trends in furs change more slowly than other apparel styles •Economy -Over the past forty years, animal rights groups have protested the wearing of animal fur as cruel and inhumane -Manufactured, synthetic, or faux furs were long regarded as beneath serious designers -Oleg Cassini fashion show with 100+ faux fur pieces sponsored by the Humane Society

Oligopoly

-Few companies dominate..essentially have control of market -making it difficult for other companies to enter - It is not illegal but its illegal to set artificial prices among themselves. Examples: -"Big Three" auto manufacturers (General Motors, Ford Motor Company, and Fiat Chrysler Automobiles) in USA before the German and Japanese cars -Carbonated Beverages (Soft Drinks) Market •Coke, Pepsi and...?

Mechanization of Production(spinning)

-For thousands of years, spinning and weaving of fabrics were labor intensive hand processes -Then..in ENGLAND in mid 1700s, the spinning of yarn and weaving of cloth began to be mechanized (Spinning and weaving of fabric: from a labor intensive handprocess to mechanized (Industrial Revolution) ) -What was going on in England? •England's cotton and wool textile industries were the most technologically advanced -Protective of their procedures and machinery -Penalties to those who would share/copy information -Restrictions to leaving the country (mechanics were restricted from leaving the country) *England's textile factory was one of most productive but also the most dehumanizing and unhealthy for workers..call for reform in textile industry *Meanwhile in US -fledgeling cotton industry was taking root but US lacked technology of England for spinning and weaving cotton fibers -Cotton grown in the colonies -Shipped to England to be processed -England will sell the cloth and yarn back to the colonies WHAT CHANGED THIS? -Samuel Slater -(1789) Mechanic who memorized English blueprints and came to the US...memorized blueprints of Arkwright water powered spinning machine - Settled in Pawtucket, Rhode Island -Contracted by Moses Brown -Set up a spinning mill..sparking textile industry in US -factories relied on British inventions -Five years after, New England became the center of textile production

Chambre Syndicale de la Couture

-Founded in Paris in 1868 by Englishman, Charles Frederick worth, to stop couture designs form being copied -Now plays more of a role in positioning and promoting French fashion and style -1 of 3 Regulating commissions, originated to provide structure and promote French fashion, currently -Arranges the calendar for the showings of the collections twice per year -Organizes accreditation for press and buyers who want to attend the showings -Assists the couture houses so each gains the maximum press coverage possible -Ex Adeline André, Alexandre Vauthier, Frank Sorbier, Maison Martin Margiela etc.

2000s

-Fragmentation of the industry -General clothing trends -Mix levels of formality -Some printed designs continued to be popular throughout the period -Camouflage, animal prints, brightly colored stripes etc. -Retro styles continued to emerged -2007 -Revival of 50s "ladylike" dresses (e.g., trapeze style dresses) -2012 -Revival of the 30s -pencil skirts with cardigans• -Revival of the 80s -neon colors **The styles were not exact copies of the past but refreshed with new fabric treatments and modifications in cut.

Category

-Gender, Age, size range, product category/ end use -primarily categorized into mens, women's, and children's apparel and accessories -Fashion brand companies can be divided into subcategories--related to the classification of apparel *Traditional classifications/subcategories of women's apparel: Outwear, Dresses, Blouses, Career wear, Sportswear and active sportswear, Evening wear and special occasion, Bridal and bridesmaid dresses *Menswear and classifications -Tailored clothing -Sportswear -Furnishings -Active sportswear -Uniforms and work wear Childrenswear and classifications: -age related size categories -gender

Lines/Collections

-Group of styles designed for a particular fashion season -Collections: more expensive merchandise ($195) -Lines: chapter merchandise ($39)

Disadvantages of Corporations

-Have a number of disadvantages -much more complicated to establish..high costs -Corporation articles restrict type of business it can perform -cannot shift from producing apparel to automobiles -Organized under the laws of specific states..each state has statues that govern corporations -corporate taxes: bc they are legal entities..corporations are taxed on their income at a tax higher than that on personal income -Thousands of employees..they view corporations as impersonal **still very attractive due to limited liability and ease of transferring ownership**

1930s DRESS

-Hollywood/Movie star glamour -Used as a means of escape from the hard reality of daily life -Zipper introduced for both functional and high fashion -Silhouette -Emphasized the natural form of the woman's body (a return to curves) -Waistline becomes more defined -Skirts longer than 1920s -Emphasizing curves once again(return to femininity) -Elsa Schiaparelli (designer) -Known for her dramatic flair and her use of surrealist motifs -Worked with Salvador Dali, one of the most important artists under the surrealist movement -Use of body parts such as eyes, mouths, and hands in unexpected places on garments or in print -Placement of lobster is scandelous *During 1930s a large number of sportswear companies emerged and grew in NY *Several fashion magazines debuted in 1930s -Mademoiselle -Glamour published as glamour Hollywood centered fashionable college coeds and young working women -Esquire was designed to enlighten men about world of fashion and elegance

NYC garment district then and now

-In 1920's women's fashion industry in NY moved from Lower East Side to the 7th Ave -Seventh Ave became the Garment District and hub of women's fashion in USA -Located between Fifth and Ninth Avenues from 34th to 42nd Street.

Synthetic leather?

-Increased competition from synthetics in the past few decades -Synthetics that look and feel like leather but are less susceptible to scratches, easier to maintain. -Historically synthetic leather products not as attractive as leather, and did not offer any real competition for a long time -Ultrasuede (synthetic) quickly became a fashion classic; washable & does not have an image of being fake or cheap--used by high-fashion designers. -Constantly broadening their range of colors, weights, and textures -Introducing improvements to make leather an acceptable material where it wasn't used before—making lighter weight leather -Developing more designs with leather scraps to be more sustainable -Prada and Gucci are two brands known for using leather widely

Laws protecting fashion inventions and Designs

-Intellectual property is protected by laws related to patents, trademark, copyrights, and trade secrets. -Laws protecting original garment designs vary from one country to another. -In the U.S., specific apparel designs are NOT protected by law. However, inventions, textile print designs, and logos can be protected. •Why aren't apparel designs protected in the US? -The U.S. has held a philosophy that laws protecting industrial design (including apparel) would impede design innovation. -European design laws, on the other hand, offer more protection to the designer and are becoming harmonized over the continent.

Trend V Fad

-It can be difficult--- even the experts get confused. •A trend can originate anywhere and has a solid foundation that supports its growth; a fad does not. -Trend stays a little longer -Trend: biker shorts

Globalization

-Process whereby nations economies become intertwined and interdependent -process whereby the economies of nation-states become integrated -Trade among countries for fibers, fabrics, apparel, accessories, and the machinery needed to produce these products has contributed to globalization -Through Globalization, developing countries are becoming emerging markets

Jobber

-Purchases overruns from larger manufacturers, and seconds and sell it wholesale at lower minimum quantities to small design companies, manufacturers, and retail fabric stores -Often not reorderable and lack continuity

Converters

-Purchases unprocessed (greige goods) directly from a fabric mill •They dye, finish, print and/or wash the goods convertingthem into finished fabrics. -Offer current fashion colors, prints, novelty finishes and specialty effects on fabrics -Minimums are lower than dealing directly with a mill -Sometimes as little as 1 roll of stock materials

Serviceability is impacted by fibers

-Resiliency: ability to return to original shape after bending twisting, or crushing -Dimensional stability: ability to retain given size and shape through use and care -Shrinkage resistance: ability of fabric to retain given size through care or cleaning

Changes in apparel and textile operations

-Rising labor costs in US causes companies to begin seeking cheaper labor particularly Southeast Asia -Quick Response (QR) introduced a pull system of demand based on consumer demand as opposed to the push system when manufacturers pushed products to consumers

reasons we wear clothing

-Social standing -Business roles/ professions -Ethnicity -lifestyle -gender identification -group identity(private school, team) *Clothing gives us cues about people -both right and wrong *It can be used to help people fit in or stand out *What people choose to wear sends a message, intended or not

Classic

-Styles or designs that continue to be considered in good taste over a long period of time. •They are exceptions to the usual movement of styles through the fashion life cycle. •Remains in general fashion acceptance for an extended period of time. •Examples? little black dress, white t shirt, blazer, pencil skirt

Physical Structure and performance (continued)

-Surface contour: smooth, rough, etc -Cross section: fiber shape when cut across--impacts luster, bulk, body, texture, hand, etc. -Fiber Crimp: the three-dimensional shape of the fiber; waves and twists along the fiber

Good taste

-Taste (in relation to fashion terminology) refers to prevailing opinion of what is and what is not acceptable and appropriate for a given occasion -Has more to do with being appropriate than being in fashion

Ready to Wear (RTW)

-The RTW industry began in early 18th century (1700s) -To meet demand, tailors used scrap material left over from custom-made suits to make clothes -Customers were the working class: sailors, miners, and slaves are primary target -Early 19th century (1800s) -Demand for RTW increased *This demand was met only because of two very important innovations 1. sewing machines -RTW did not become to available to most customers until sewing processes were mechanized -Sewing machine inventions by Walter Hunt, Elias Howe, Isaac Singer made it possible for apparel to be produced by machine..speeding up manufacturing -sewing machines allowed for immigrant workers to sew in their homes and used in factories 2. patterns -Ebenezer Butterick(1863) and James McCall (1870) -Facilitated mass production of apparel -Expanding number of middle class consumers wanted good quality apparel but did not want to pay high prices associated with custom made clothing -Mens RTW developed first then boys, girls and finally women bc... -Men's size standards were available -Size standards -the proportional increase or decrease in garment measurements for each size produced -Men's styles were less complicated than those of women *Where were they selling RTW clothing? -Mid-1800s: development of dry goods stores in cities..later become known as department stores -Brooks brothers opened in NYC in 1818...first well known mens apparel stores..catered toward sailors and woking class men who could not afford custom tailored clothing -For consumers unable to shop in cities..illustrated catalogs offering a variety of goods became available in 19th century -With expansion of US postal service..development of railroads created a growing mail order business for RTW

Fashion 1910-1920s

-The first world war spurred need to manufacture military uniforms thus helping streamline apparel production methods -Britain and France were pre-occupied in the WWI and this helped America develop its fashion industry. -1920's women's fashion changed, designs became easier to manufacture and the era of inexpensive fashion began. -Most costumers valued new styles and variety more than costly one of a kind apparel -Retail stores increased their inventory ratio of moderately priced clothing in proportion to more expensive goods *Shopping -Development of the first outdoor shopping center -Country Club Plaza, Kansas City, MO *Prohibition →Alcohol illegal -1920: 18th Amendment passed - distilling, brewing, and sale of alcoholic beverages became illegal -Prohibition mostly ignored →emergence of the "speakeasy" (secretive drinking clubs for drinking, dining, and dancing). -1933: repeal of prohibition *Changes in women's lives & behavior: -19th Amendment: women gained the right to vote -More women continuing to work -Before(until WWI): Expected not to smoke, drink, or see young men unchaperoned -1920s: Revolution →the Flapper -Free from all restrains. She smoked, drank, danced until late hours at night, and dressed differently. -Flapper's dress -Wear short dresses (leg revealing), Wear makeup, Cut their hair short, Wear flesh colored stockings, Smoke cigarettes, Drink alcohol (illegal), Wear trousers (slacks), Suppressed curves, Dancing and partying was the norm during this time *1920s dress -Simpler dress due to: -Sports→ Led to the development of Sportswear -Increase in outdoor recreation reinforced need for practical, casual dress and established sportswear as a separate category of clothing -The automobile → Ford "Model T" 1908 -widely available in the 1920s -French couture: Coco Chanel -The French still reigned supreme in couture

1970s dress

-The menswear influence increased -Pants and pant suits become important components of most women's wardrobes. -Acceptable not only for leisure but for all occasions (e.g., work) -By 1974, they had become a staple in the wardrobes of the most conservative women -Palazzo pants - wide-legged pants, made in soft fabrics - worn for evenings *Jeans -First designed for workers -Levi Strauss - California Gold Rush -In the 60s, jeans were associated with youth and rebellion - used as a symbol, a discourse -Young people adopted them as a symbol of solidarity with working-class• -Later became fashion statements -Many people decorated their jeans to make them unique -Brand was important

International Trade laws

-The primary objective of these laws and treaties is to establish fair trade among countries. -World Trade Organization (WTO) - Established in 1995, is a global trade organization that details with the rules of trade among member countries (164 countries, as of July 2016)

What is licensing?

-The selling by the owner (licensor) of the right to use a particular name, image, or design to another party (licensee), typically a manufacturer, for a payment of royalties. -The licensee buys the right to use the name, image, or design, referred to as the property, on merchandise to add value to the merchandise. -Used to create a perceived difference -The success of licensing depends on consumers' desire for goods with a perceived difference based on brand name, trademark, or image. The diversity of licensed goods proves their effectiveness in creating a favorable difference in consumers' minds. -Some companies are entirely licensed other companies license only certain products (Vera Wang fragrances)

Licensing Agreement

-The terms of the agreement between the licensee and licensor are outlined in a contract. -Typically, a licensing agreement includes the following elements: 1. Time limit 2. Royalty Payment: Typically, the licensee pays the licensor royalty of 7% to 14% of the wholesale price of the goods sold 3. Image: How the image will appear -specify how image will appear..giving licensor control over graphics, color, design 4. Quality: Clauses on material and manufacture of merchandise and the submission of samples of merchandise for approval by the licensor 5.Marketing and Distribution- control consistency of their merchandise..dont want their goods to be distributed on discount..clauses in place so this does not occur 6. Advances: Amount of advance money that will be paid upfront and then deducted of royalty payments 7. Guarantees: Minimum payment due 8. Notification of agreement to customs department -so goods being manufactured outside US can clear customs not be confiscated as counterfeit goods

Good things about manufactured fibers:

-They can be modified •Size and shape of spinneret opening •Molecular structure---compounds can be added

Partnership

-Two or more people join forces in owning a business. -Defined as an "association of two or more persons to carry on as co-owners of a business for a profit" -Partnerships require contracts or "articles of partnership" that outline specific details of the partners' working relationship -Partnership name -partners and officers names -length of partnership -They are liable for entire debt of partnership -profits shared among partners known as GENERAL PARTNERS *Examples: -Calvin Klein + Barry Schwartz = Calvin Klein Inc. -Domenico Dolce + Stefano Gabbana = Dolce & Gabbana

End of 1930s and WWII

-When WWII began: -Silk supplies were limited -Shoes containing rubber and leather were rationed -Nylon diverted to military use -Wool scarce -L-85 Regulations: Governmental regulations restricted the amount of fabric used in men's and women's garments -Elimination of trouser cuffs, extra pockets, vests with double breasted suits, etc. -stocking using makeup..couldn't make stocking bc of WWII..draw with eyeliner

If you are on the business side you need to understand fabric because:

-You need to understand why a designer would use one fabric over another -If you are a buyer you will be selecting merchandise (in part) based on the fabric and fiber content -Understand why some items are more expensive than others -Avoid overpaying for garments that are not worth the price -Coordinate seasonal buys for a store -Your customer (retail stores or end-user) may have specific requirements about the fibers and fabrics they wear

Different Types of licensing

1. Celebrity name licensing: -Celebrities name on label effectively fast tracks a new fashionn brand -EX. Camuto Group licensing agreements with Jessica Simpson 2. Designer name licensing -Designers such as Chanel license their names as brand names for products including scarves, jewelry, fragrance, cosmetics EX. Camuto group has a listening agreement with Tory burch for footwear 3. Exclusive licensing for retailer -Retailers often team up with celebs and designers to create merchandise sold exclusively at a particular retailer EX. Wangs collection at H&M 4. Character and entertainment: -Such images as cartoon characters, movie or television characters, and fictional characters often licensed to appear on range of merchandise EX. sleepwear, backpacks, sheets ...disney characters or marvel characters 5. Corporate Licensing -licensing of brand names and trademarks of corporations such as Coca-cola..extends a brand that is well known in a particlular product area to a different product area EX. porsche sunglasses Coca Cola shirt 6. Nostalgia licensing -manufactures license names and images of legends such as Marilyn Monroe or babe ruth 7. Sports and Collegiate listening -professional sports teams and university logos on sport related merchandise -EX UT t shirt 8. Event and festival listening -names or logos of events including Kentucky derby also listened for use on products 9. Art Licensing -Manufactures license great works of art to be reproduced on their merchandise -EX. Andy Warhol's art on t-shirts and home décor, computer and phone cases, etc.

What are the different marketing channels?

1. Direct Marketing channel: Manufacturer-----> Consumer 2. Limited Marketing Channel Manufacturer---> Retailer----->consumer 3. Extended Marketing Channels Manufacturer--->Wholesaler-->retailer-->consumer Manufacturer--->Wholesaler--->jobber-->Retailer--->consumer

Misconceptions about fashion

1. Fashion brands and fashion designers dictate what fashion will be and force it on consumers -consumers trend affect all industries -Public sentiment drives purchasing decisions -Fashion brands need to know what people want before releasing line -rely heavily on data analytics -Global brands are heavily investing in market research and consumer insights -consumers drive fashion..actively look for new brands to wear no longer walk into a store and ask a shopping assistant for help..they research, read reviews 2.fashion acts as an influence on women only -Mesnwear market is growing -retailers shift attention toward menswear -men showing greater interest in their appearance -men make more than women so can afford to but more and better quality clothing - men spending more time shopping

What are the different Fashion brand Classifications?

1. International designer or luxury brands -some designers have international recognition and sell their licensed merchandise through boutiques or other high end retail venues -high prices, high quality, distinct prestige EX. Armani, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci 2. National/local designer or luxury brands -some designers have more local or national recognition and sell merchandise through boutiques in their community or country -high prices and high quality but not have international reputation -EX. well known boutique in Portland Oregon 3. International name brand -Some companies have established international recognition as a brand name EX. Nike, Adidas 4. Private label Brand: specific to a particular retailer that oversees design and marketing of brand -Department store private label brands -EX. C Penney's Arizona, Targets Target's Xhilaration -Exclusive licensing brands -EX. Vera wangs simply vera Vera Wang exclusive brand at Khols 5. SPA retail brands (store brands) -retailer and brand are one and the same..store brands EX. Gap, VS, A&F *Fast fashion retail brands -Low prices, fashion trends, short time from concept to retail EX. Zara, Forever 21 6. Lifestyle brands -brands that are associated with a particular costumers activities and way of life EX. Tommy Bahamas is a good example off a lifestyles brand..people who vacation in tropical locations EX. Ralph Lauren 6. All other brands: -Liscensed merchandise and specialized brands exist -EX. Mickey & Co, looney tunes

Companies compete on various platforms

1. Price 2. Quality 3. Innovation 4. Services 5. Social benefits of merchandise 6. combo of these factors *companies business practices are based on competitive strategies

Cellulosic fibers can originate from different parts of a plant

1. Seed fibers: cotton, coir (coconut), kapok 2. Bast fibers:(stem): flax, ramie, hemp, jute, kenaf 3. Leaf fibers: piña, abaca, sisal, henequen

What are the four most common legal forms of business ownership?

1. Sole proprietorships 2. Partnerships 3. Corporations 4. Limited Liability Companies (LLC)

In sum, what are the four most common legal forms of business ownerships?

1. Sole proprietorships: -Boutiques, tailors, dry cleaning, nail salons, beauty salons, etc. 2. Partnerships Calvin Klein + Barry Schwartz = Calvin Klein Domenico Dolce + Stefano Gabbana = Dolce and Gabbana 3. Corporations -JCrew, target, Sears, Macys 4. LLC -Common for doctors & lawyers -7 for all mankind started as an LLC

Textiles and Materials impact a lot!

1. The Performance characteristics 2. The desired Serviceability characteristics 3. Aesthetics, how a garment appeals to the target market 4. Durability of the garment 5. Product Cost, whether the product is made for a reasonable cost

Animal pelts go through a number of processes that transform them into leather

1. cleaned to remove hair 2. then they are tanned, colored, or dyed and finished

Fabric

A flexible planar substance constructed from solutions, fibers, yarns, or fabrics, in any combination

Yarn

A grouping of fibers that is twisted or laid together forming a continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric -Spun yarns: made from shorter staple fibers -Filament yarns: made from long continuous fibers *type of yarn selected will affect fabric performance, tactile qualities, and appearance

Bilateral Trade Agreement

A trade agreement between two countries

Dual distribution

Fashion brand companies that sell their merchandise through their own stores as well as through other retailers ex. Tommy Hilfiger and Nike distribute merchandise both through their own stores and through outlets of other retailers

Contractor

Company that specializes in the constructing, sewing, and finishing of goods or that specializes in a specific part of the production process (such as pleating piece goods) EX. contractor may specialize in fabric pleating so manufacturer would ship needed quantity of yard goods to contractor to be pleated..contractor will return pleated goods

Are cellulosic fibers the most environmentally friendly?

Cellulosic are not the most environmentally friendly environmental concerns: -Ag-chemicals -fertilizers, pesticides -Soil erosion -Cotton is very water intensive -Defoliants•Dyeing/finishing chemicals•Bioengineering (genetic modifications) -Child labor -Seeds processed for food -Cotton is known as the "World's Dirtiest Crop" -Flax (linen) less environmental impact than cotton -Fewer chemicals used by growers

Shapes of fibers

Circular, uniform in diameter: Nylon, Polyester, Lyocell Polygonal Lumen: Flax Oval to round overlapping scales: Wool Dog bone: acrylic, spandex Square with voids: modified nylon or polyester Triangular round edges: silk

Partnership is not a collaboration!!!!!

Collab: Demi Lovato and fabletics and Selena Gomez and Puma Partnership: two or more people join forces in OWNING a business

Gray goods(grey or greige goods)

Any fabric that has not been finished have not received finishing treatments

Finishing

Any process that is done to fiber, yarn, or fabric either before after fabrication to change appearance (what is seen), hand(what is felt), or the performance(what fabric does)

VERTICAL marketing channels

Consist of companies that work as a united group to design, produce, market, and distribute merchandise.

Difference between ready to wear and couture

Couture literally means "sewing" in French -buying interpretation not that look -not necessarily wearable -produced in smaller quantities -uses considerable hand sewing techniques -Couture=one of a kinds garment - RTW pieces need no measurements, but are fitted in the standard even numbered sizes. VERSUS couture which is custom sizing (sized to fit an individuals body measurements exactly) -Haute couture is high-end fashion that is constructed by hand from start to finish, made from high-quality, expensive, often unusual fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable sewers—often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. *Pricing: RTW: price point that is attainable for a larger percentage of the population. Couture: 2o thousand to a million dollars VERY $$$

Classifocations and categories of fashion brand companies

Fashion brand companies are classified by: -types of merchandise -The wholesale prices of the products or brands ( price point) -An industry classification system for governmental tracking

WORLD TRADE Organization (WTO)

Created as a vehicle for member countries to negotiate trade agreements with an overall goal of enhancing international trade -Through WTO many of the barriers to trading textiles and apparel were removed over a 10 year period(1995-2004) -Countries such as US that protected their domestic production of textiles through use of QUOTAS(numerical limits on imports) and TARRIFS(taxes on imports) were required to lower or eliminate barriers to trade -work of WTO to increase opportunities for trade among member countries Brough dramatic shift in design, marketing, and production of apparel worldwide -New rules led to countries redefining their roles to maximize their competitive advantages within global economy -EX. -US and France focus primarily on design and marketing -China and India focus on production -Other countries like Japan have found their niches like producing high tech textiles

multinational corporation

Either private or publicly traded corporations that operate in several countries

Why is fiber knowledge important?

How a fabric reacts/performs has to do with the fibers from which it is created

If you are a designer you need to understand:

How fiber and fabric properties impact performance -Do they stretch -How do different fibers and fabrics drape -Do the fibers help to retain heat -How well does the fiber absorb color (dye) -How will the garments aesthetic properties change form from one fabric to another

What's brand positioning?

How the company positions its brand(s) on key characteristics as compared to its competitors

Supply Chain Management

Importance of additional partnerships -Philosophy of sharing and coordinating info across all segments of the soft goods industry -"The collection of actions required to coordinate and manage all activities necessary to bring a product to market including procuring raw materials, producing goods, transporting and distributing those goods, and managing the selling process" Goals: -Reduce inventory -shorten time for raw material to become finished product in hands of consumer -provide better service to consumer -Collaboration, trust, and dependability are cornerstones to making both QR and SCM effective -Goes beyond QR in that SCM companies share forecasting, point of sale data, inventory info, and information about unforeseen changes in supply or demand for materials or products

Physical Structure of Fibers impact performance

Length of fiber: *Staple fibers—short -fuzzy ends *Filament—long continuous fiber -smoother end

Woven fabrics and weight

Lightweight Medium weight Heavyweight

What's brand differentiation?

Results from the creation of a distinct brand image in consumers minds EX. swimsuits in fashion, performance, leisure

Terms associated with company expansion and diversification

Meger

Are all manufactured fibers synthetic?

NO! 1. cellulose based fibers (lyocell, acetate) 2. Synthetic fibers (acrylic, olefin, spandex, polyester) 3. Mineral based fibers (Glass, gold)

Fashion V style

NOT interchangeable -style is a characteristic of an item to garment or expression of it -ex. diff styles of architecture and music..gothic architecture country msuic -Style categories: Bohemian, preppy, sporty -characteristic or distinctive appearance of a garment---the combination of features that makes it unique and different from other garments. -This shirt is a western shirt due to embroidery -Styles come and go in terms of fashion acceptance -A specific style always remains a style whether it is currently in fashion or not. Some people adopt a style that becomes indelibly associated with them and wear it regardless of whether it is currently fashionable EX. Michael Jacksons white glove and Tswifts red lip -The word style can also be named for a period in history when it originated *Fashionand being "in fashion" refers to a style that is accepted and used by the majority of a group at any one time, no matter how small that group. •In other words: •A fashion is a fact of social psychology. •A style is usually a creation from an artist or a designer.

Subcontractor

One who has a contract with a prime contractor to perform a portion of the work.

Entrepreneur

Person who organizes and manages any enterprise, especially a business, usually with considerable initiative and risk characteristics: passion for their business, perseverance and patience, resourcefulness, open mindedness, absorption of learning

Private Label V store brand

Private Label: -Designed for a particular retailer»Manufactured by others; the retailer manages the marketing -Examples: Arizona by J.C. Penney, Merona by Target Store Brand: -Carry the name of the store -Examples:Gap Abercrombie and Fitch, Ann Taylor, Body Shop ,Victoria Secrets, American Eagle

Tanning

Process used to make skins and hides pliable and water resistant -tanning process can use a number of agents, including vegetable materials , oils, chemicals, and minerals are combination of more than one type of agent -Quickest tanning methods is to use chemicals, typically formaldehyde

Slop shops

RTW cut in _______ _______ and sewn by women at home -slops later became standard word for cheap RTW clothing

Subcategories for footwear

Subcategories for footwear Athletic footwear Dress shoes and boots Casual shoes sandals Work shoes and boots Western/casual boots Hiking, hunting, and fishing boots Specialized sport shoes

Push system

Supply change strategies were used to push the products produced on consumer

Also need to understand

The costs/risks of using different fabric -Texture and how it impacts design -Care requirements for fabrics -Static properties of fibers/fabrics

Competitive Strategies

The goal of every company is to earn a profit by providing products and/or services that are desired by the ultimate consumer

Trends often start

The runway street style celebreties fashion bloggers

monopolistic competition

a market structure in which many companies sell products that are similar but not identical EX. many companies produce brands of denim jeans, Levis, Wrangler, true religion, gap each have created a unique image..creating image in consumers mind

Everyday Uses of Textiles

Toothbrush, rugs, bedding, towels, clothes, car interior

Corporate Social Responsibility

a business's concern for society's welfare *With globalization comes the integration of corporate social responsibility throughout the textile and apparel supply chain, including socially responsible design, production, marketing, and distribution. *Corporate social responsibility(CSR) "refers to business practices that contribute positively to society"** *Companies that engage in cSR as question... How do we design, develop, produce, and distribute the highest quality and most environmentally friendly sustainable products under the best factory and business conditions in a profitable manner? -companies have incorporated socially responsible business practices through out supply chain in many ways -CSR is evidenced through supply chain..

Socially Responsible supply chain management

achieved through design, production, marketing, and distribution decisions that positively affect social, environmental, and economic systems 1. design: achieved through inclusive design, physically and psychologically healthy design, design that promotes fair trade, and design decisions that facilitate efficient factory operations 2.production: achieved through safe and healthy working conditions, environmentally responsible production, fair wages, and production that promotes fair trade 3. Marketing: Consider consumers desire to purchase goods and services that have been produced and distributed with sustainability in mind and in safe and humane conditions by individuals who are paid a fair or living wage 4. Distribution: Achieved through safe and sustainable practices for getting products to ultimate consumer

Sweatshop

associated with the long hours, unclean and unsafe working conditions, low pay, as well as the dismal conditions of home factories where contract workers sewed clothes

Business-to-business (B2B)

applies to businesses buying from and selling to each other over the internet -Through password protected websites, businesses can share info and conduct business transactions effectively and efficiently

multichannel distribution

companies offer merchandise through multiple venues Brick and mortar stores ,Online, Catalogs

Supply Chain Networks

include all of the interconnected individuals, businesses, and processes that are necessary to get a product to the ultimate consumer

Multilateral trade agreement

trade agreement with more than two nations who have similar trade interests -trade agreements among MULTIPLE countries -WTO contributes to the creation of these

Atelier de couture

workroom

Different Serviceability expectations

•Aesthetic •Durability •Comfort •Safety •Appearance •Care •Environmental concerns •Sustainability •Cost