des 143 second midterm
15. Describe the effect each of the following social movements, promotional activities, or subcultural groups had upon clothing styles from 1964 to 1974. Include examples to support your answers. a. Peacock Revolution b. Space exploration c. Mods d. Hippies
a) 1960 louis feraud - beginning of peacock revolution. a lot more men interested in their appearance and now had more alternatives for clothing. b) andre courreges - dresses made of plastic and metal rings, vinyl for rainwear and outerwear, clean geometric lines. c) 1962 mods - jazz enthusiasts, modern, young men. neo-edwardian fashion influence. suit jacket and pants look. existentialist - only wearing black. greasers, rockers. d) 1967 hippie movement - "anti fashion." far east was mythologized. ethnic components in fashion. denim starts to sell (levis). embroidery in jeans popular, anything that looked like it wasn't in fashion was the fashion for hippies.
What were some of the major technological innovations in the 19th century and how did they affect/influence clothing design?
- bicycle: influenced bloomers, and the "reformed bloomer." bloomers weren't worn at all, only by the extreme feminists of the time period, but were later incorporated in bicycling and swimming outfits. - invention of sewing machine (2846) --> quickly became available to many people. as sewing machine got popular, sewing patterns were created --> first had miniature patterns in magazines and later you could buy full-size patterns. contributed to ready-made wear (mail order catalogues, magazines, railroad order, etc). women could get out of the home - class shift of sewing work to the lower class, especially children and immigrants in factories. -railroad - allowed people to place orders through mail-order catalogues and receive them via train. hastened spread of fashions -cotton gin (1794) - more efficient, less expensive cotton fabrics, slave labor less necessary -synthetic dyes - clothes could be made with brighter colors are were cheaper to produce - this allowed the working class to have nicer clothes, wear more color.
What were the major garment items for men around 1900? Describe who wore these garments, as well as how and when they would be worn.
- sack suit: trousers, waistcoat, jacket. incorporated dark colors to hide soot/smoke/dirt (industrial revolution/factory pollution) -shirt waist -starched collar (detached). linen detached collars for the wealthy, disposable bonded paper detachable collars for working class -four in hand tie -frock coats for formal events -advent of model-t in 1908: dusters (long coats similar to trench coats, worn by women and men alike) became popular to wear over clothes while driving. -sleeve protectors: worn by working men to avoid getting dirt or grime on the cuffs of their shirts
Compare and contrast the clothing styles for women during the 1920s and late 1960s. What were some of the cultural influences that affected fashion in each of these time periods and how were styles similar or different?
-1920s: characterized by the flapper aesthetic, known as the jazz age -the clothing revolves around a new trend in dancing (like the tango and the charleston to jazz muzic). fringe sequins, movement, shorter hemlines. stocking: light silk or rayon. loose chemise dresses for women, flat/narrow/boyish silhouette for women with drop waist. king tut/egypt craze: eyeliner. undergarments: elastic girdle, bust flattener. flapper dress: evening dress as short as day dress, finer fabric, beaded/lace, sheer, deep v-neck. cocktail parties, diet crazes (nicotine, opium). increased focus on leisure time: tennis shoes (vulcanized rubber), keds. -1960s: time of rebellion, civil rights movement, rock and roll and swinging london. peacock revolution (think austin powers) where men get back into fashion. simple shapes, shorter hemlines. minidress (attributed to mary quant, 1965). pantyhose. gogo boots. vinyl, pop art, beatles. mondrian dress - inspired by modern art (big block print with primary colors). -comparison: music fueled (jazz versus rock and roll), shorter skirts, stockings/pantyhose, rebellious focus on living in the moement
What was the "New Look?" Why did it seem so revolutionary at the time? Was it really a new look? Why or why not?
-1947, Christian Dior. This look kick started the fashion world after WWII. It took advantage of no longer rationed clothing to make full skirts and more feminine curves. -personified by the Bar Suit: a knife pleated (lots of fabric) skirt of crepe fabric gathered to a very small waist created by a girdle. On top there was a very fitted jacket in almost a basque style silhouette with soft shoulders and full hips reminiscent of paniers of the french or the bum roll of the renaissance. This basque style fitted bodice is also reminiscent of a corset. -Longer skirts with stiff petticoat -revolutionary because of how comfortable it was for women -Caused some stir as many women had adopted pants and shorter skirts and did not want to go back to the more conservative longer skirts.
During the French Revolution and following Reign of Terror, aristocrats were often identified by their clothing. Describe three styles of dress that allowed the French to disguise themselves during this time period and explain the political significance.
-Sans culottes (mob): the phrygian bonnet (adapted from the etruscans) that was also known as the "red cap of freedom" identified revolutionaries, as well as a ribbon cockade (red, white, and blue --> colors of the french flag) that was a symbol of extremists. They'd wear long pants and simple clothes (worn previously by sailors and working class men). women would wear a red jacket and a simple petticoat. -classical (greek/roman style): wore togas and chitons (adapted from the greeks). -english style of clothing: day wear; more simple than french court fashions, not as focused on conspicuous consumption
8. Madeleine Vionnet, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, and Elsa Schiaparelli were three female designers who came into prominence in the early 20th century. Describe their individual styles and why their contributions were important to fashion history.
-Vionnet (1912-30s): modernist style dress, lots of draped patterns and bias garments, copyrighted her patterns. precursor of hollywood glamour. not very many undergarments, or closures. open necklines, silk crepe, smoothness simplicity. -coco chanel (1920): she wanted to against the normal fashion of the day and make it more simple. show more skin, all black. opposite of conspicuous consumption. menswear inspired looks. jersey/crepe wool (previously, wool jersey had only been used for underwear). knits. discarding superficial decoration, creating more functional clothing. designer of the little black dress and the chanel suit. fashionable validity of black (not just for mourning). simple. unstructured fabrics. wool jersey separates! -elsa schiaparelli: (1930s) surrealist inspiration. funky and humorous pieces. 1st designer with themed couture collection, "shocking pink" perfume with may west silhouette. known for fantasy clothing and shoe hats as well as hollywood starlet costumes. used new artificial materials in jewelry.
Give at least three specific examples of how the women's movement (striving for equal rights) influenced clothing in the 19th & 20th centuries. Include the time period and details about the garments or styles worn.
-amelia bloomer (1851) - feminist, editor of the lilly. some women now realize how unhealthy long heavy skirts and corsets are. started wearing shorter dresses with longer bloomers underneath. inspiration for bathing costume as well as bicycling costume. wasn't adopted by mainstream fashion, but still important. -la garconne (1928): a book which described women with careers who wore mensewar and had short hair and celebrated free love. bobs, cigarettes, red lips. -rei kawakubo (1980s): sought to dress women in bold, unusaual garments to divorce their confidence from their physical appearance (unworried about perceived imperfections).
Name four major art movements from the 20th century and give a specific fashion example influenced by each one. Include the time period and details about the garments.
-art deco influence (1925). aimed to have a harmony between art and industry. a lot of hand craftsmanship. cleopatra costumes for movies. -art nouveau influence (1890-1910): art nouveau design motifs were popular on dresses at this time, and the s-curve silhouette at this time was also inspired by this art movement. these motifs featured many detailed floral designs. also inspired moody, abstract feeling dresses. -surrealism - 1920s. elsa schiaparelli. lobster dress that was inspired by dali's lobster telephone (plster work/art piece). her dress was made one year after dali's art piece. -pop art: 60s, created visual illusions through largely geometric patterns -1990s grunge (anti-fashion), "toddler" (wearing pants that are baggy and larger than properly fitting sizes), "everything old is new again," everything is a contemporary adaptation of something historical. also, in the 90s: designers start selling brand names and logos printed on products
Discuss the evolution of the fashion industry up to the present beginning with Charles Frederick Worth. Who set the styles? How was clothing marketed/merchandised?
-charles worth is the "father" of haute couture. the styles were set by contemporary adaptations. the clothes were marketed through fashion magazines. his designs had many references to cross-cultural and historic garments. his gowns were worn by royal and wealthy women who were trendsetters at this time. he opened his fashion house in paris in 1858.
Explain how the socio-political situations during WWI and WWII affected fashion. Give specific examples from each time period.
-civil war: measuring the soldiers (for uniforms) allowed for the creation of standard measurements in ready to wear clothing for men -world war 1 (1914): lack of men in workforce, women working. military styles integrated into fashion (wristwatches replace pocketwatches bc men wore wristwatches during the war for practicality, sweaters became popular after war). calf length skirts (conserved fabric for war efforts) -ww2 (1942) - rationing causes shorter skirts and less purchasing of new items. only functional clothing with minimal decoration is allowed (regulation L-85). upcycling and repurposing become popular. men: no more waistcoat, fewer buttons, narrower sleeves, smaller pleats, mo more trouser cuffs (did these things in order to save fabric and materials). women: below knee hemlines, straight or a-line skirts, no restrictions on hats (were allowed to experiment and express themselves here), shoes rationed, "utility suits," menswear esque, stocking shortage, women draw lines on their legs to simulate the seam (rayon, nylon, and silk used in war efforts)
What was the connection between Hollywood and fashion in the 1930s? Include specific examples to support your answer. {note—also be prepared to give examples of clothing influenced by films or film stars, can be any time in 20th century or just the 30s.}
-connections they were focused on the fashion at the time (left the fashion shows in color) -1933 clark gabble in "it happens one night" - people aspire to wear and what he's not wearing (he wasn't wearing an undershirt in the film so sales for undershirts plummeted --> upset manufacturers). -cinema shops - boutique type departments in stores sold film costume-based retail clothing. this was developed by the modern merchandising bureau (1930, nyc). one of the most popular garments for this was the scarlett o'hara. barbeque dress (white and green with a large green sash). -often celebrities would be commissioned to pose for picture in costumes from movies they weren't even in
Who is a dandy? Give some examples of the type of dress a dandy might wear in the early 1800s, 1900s and in late 20th century.
-dandy: a very fashionable man who is a member of the best spheres of society and is funny, intellectual, charming, and always ready with a witty remark. Dandies take great care in the details of their attire and are always perfectly groomed. -beau brumell (1800s): the idealized dandy - created trends in cleanlinesss (shaving, teeth brushing, bathing every day), long fitted trousers (with sack suit), cravats. -duke of wellington (1812): fitted suit instead of military uniform in portraits, wellington boots. marl twain/samuel clemmins (1900): white sack suit/waistcoat, shirt, and turned down collar. starched collar. -zoot suiters (1930s): a subversive group who wore loose, brightly colored and patterned suits in an effort to rebel against war rationing and show their "anti-patriotic" ideas as most of them were often members of minorities or immigrants. great care was taken to personal grooming and details such as long wallet chains, shows, hats and hairstyling. -prince (musical artist, 1980's): edwardian frock coat.
7. Who was Paul Poiret? What are some of the influences he had on fashion? What were some of the things that influenced/inspired his designs?
-french designer who established his house of fashion in 1903. considered very radical for his time. inspired by the exotic. started designing for women without curves ("ruler" type body shape), based on the physique of his wife. -known for getting women out of corsets and designing the hobble skirt -neoclassical influences, influenced also by the exotic and bohemian/avante garde designs. sources of his inspiration: lamp shade dress, kaftans, kimonos, harem pants, draped styles.
Name all of the sources of evidence we can use for studying fashion in the 20th century.
-garments from the period -fashion dolls -fashion cut outs -advertisements -magazines (first fashion magazine published in america in the 1830s) -catalogues -film -photographs (from 1940s on photography documented the fashion of the times/first camera invented by louis daguerre in 1839)
Compare and contrast the counter cultural fashion movements of the late 18th century (Incroyables/ Merveilleuse) and late 1970s (punks). Describe the clothing details worn for men and women as well as the social conditions at the time that influenced these styles of dress.
-late 1970s punks - messy, baggy, ripped up clothes, men wore black leather, women wore micro-minis with black fishnet stockings. there was also an emphasis on the imperfections of their clothing, such as safety pins and torn clothing. -incroyable/merveilleuse: women wore greek/roman inspired dresses (referencing democratic or republic governing styles). men wore exageratted versions of french aristocratic dress --> justacorps with comically wide collars, extremely tight pants and large hats -they were both trying to be different from the norm. -both took an anti0fashion stance: incroyable and merveilleuse by wearing exaggerated versions of artistocratic clothing or historical styles of dress, the punks by intentionally wearing or creating clothing with imperfections (rips, stains, etc.)
What are some examples of timeless designs—i.e. even though the style is more than 30 years old it still looks fashionable today? Include the name of the garment and when it first appeared in fashion.
-little black dress: coco chanel, 1926 -deplhos gown: mariano fortuny, early 1900s -chanel suit: coco chanel 1969 -levis jeans: levi straus, 1871 -t-shirt: made popular by marlon brando in a street car named desire (1951) and james dean in rebel without a cause (1955) -dior fantasy gowna (sweetheart neckline) -keds, 1923 tuxedo, 1889-90
During the 19th century many of the fashions reflect adaptations of earlier, historical styles. Describe several examples of 19th century clothing where this is true. What were the social, cultural or political events that influenced these historical adaptations?
-merveilleuse (female incroyables) - wore short hair (called a la victime). they would take on a neoclassical style, wear dresses similar to doric chitons. these dresses were often white and revealing (sheer - also arms completely exposed), worn with sandals. the only real covering might be a shawl (symbol of greek himation), perhaps made of cashmere (those in the know would recognize it as an expensive luxury good). wore red ribbons around their necks to symbolize beheading. -1820-50s: era of romanticism (formed partly as a reaction to the industrial revolution?) - ruffs, leg of mutton sleeves (reminiscent of renaissance styles), engengeantes like sleeve ruffles, pointed bodices like stomachers. -basque bodice: similar to the cuirass/armor-like
The Romantic movement influenced the perception of the appropriate social role and behavior for women in the upper class. Describe the effect this movement had on the physical appearance and apparel of women in the upper class.
-sleeves set low on the shoulder --> restricted arm movement, women couldn't really do anything wearing this kind of style. -waists get smaller and smaller, corsets are worn more and more tighter. sleeves get even bigger. lacing of corsets was linked to moral ideas of the time period --> women were supposed to be restrained and serious. idea that women were more desirable if they were pale and weak. tight corsets made women prone to fainting spells. -became somewhat immobilized by exaggerated silhouettes --> historical idea of women as objects -styles emphasized fragility and dependence, idea of conspicuous consumpation again
9. Describe how increased participation in active sports influenced clothing design in the first half of the 20th century, include in your description the evolution of changes that occurred and how these changes were met by the general public. Include specific examples and descriptions of clothing designed for specific activities.
-tennis suit: women would wear this when playing tennis. had a jacket, pants, hat, gloves, corset -bicycles: bloomers became a cycling outfit for women (not socially accepted yet). this was one of the first instances of women wearing bifurcated garments in hundreds of years (in europe/america). also lead the acquisition of men's styles like straw boater hats, shirtwaists and ties. bicycles themselves gave women mobility and independence they hadn't had before. the drop frame bike caused women's hemlines to rise (sometimes to mid-calf) -sweater becomes casual dress for men -beginning of keds, rubber sole shoes
Trace and describe the silhouettes for women's wear in the 19th century. Correlate the silhouette with the popularity of skirt support and bust/bodice shaping garments.
1800: Empire waist, French Revolution, A la victime, cropped hair, neck ribbon, no structure 1810: natural waist, more structure, underbust corset, pushes up boobs 1820: Romantic era, leg of mutton sleeves (sleeve supports), Bertha collar 1830: Pelisse collar/ wide and square, Leg of mutton sleeve, waists narrow and corseted 1835: Giant balloon Sleeves (Bishop), taffeta, corseted 1840: Eschelles, lace, engageantes, rococo influences, horsehair and flax crinoline 1851: Bloomers 1858: Cage Crinoline, Civil war, tiny waist, lower neckline (gone with the wind) 1860: hoops/caged crinoline 1870s: Basque/Cuirass style bodice(1865-1885), bustle(1st bustle period), heavy decoration (fringe etc). 1878: Princess style dress, ruffles 1880: mermaid style dress 1885: biggest bustle, basque 1887: Redfern walking suit, shorter skirt, wider corset, full length sleeve 1890: Tennis dress, long line corset (hourglass, 20 in waist average, 18 inches ideal) 1892-97: Gibson Girl, uniboob large bust, s-shape silhouette, narrow waist, demi-gigot sleeves. 1898: Art Nouveau, long trains on evening gowns
Describe the work of Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Rei Kawakubo (Commes Des Garçons). What was their contribution to late 20th century fashion? Have attitudes toward their designs changed over the last 20 years? Explain.
ready to wear clothing, made major impact in paris in the early 80's yamamoto: came out with a uniform for men. the fashion he creates is very edgy but not too crazy. he inspired artists to wear t-shirts (white or black) with suits. emphasizes imperfection miyake: wanted to give fashion a new look, experimented with new fibers (example: idea of permanent pleating with thermoplastic polyester). worked closely with textile designers ex: pleats please line, apoc (a piece of cloth) line. anti-body --> didn't want the form of the body to be driving fashion --> consciously concealing the body. very different from the western fashion model. he designs were sort of a timeless fashion because they were never in mainstream fashion enough to fall out of fashion. kawakubo: comme des garcons. "hiroshima chic." built lumps/bumps into clothes. put wool through the wash, which would naturally scrunch her dresses up. wanted women to feel strong and empowered (so they don't need clothes that define the body). body becomes dress which becomes the body.
