DES143 MIDTERM 2

Costume of men and women in the 16th century can be said to have gone through three different phases, which of the following is not one of the phases? a) A transition that was made from medieval styles to the styles of the Renaissance. b) The second to the fourth decades of the century that strong German influence can be seen. c) The Spanish influences predominated d) The influence from French Aristocracy

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Why is Spain the dominant political power in Northern Europe during the 16th cent?

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From the Fifth to the Ninth centuries while the Byzantines grew rich and powerful, much of Western Europe experienced

A decline in cultural standards. • Increased illiteracy of its population. • Depopulation, poverty, and isolation. • A decline in the quality of life

What is a slap sole used for? a. High heeled boots to help shape the feet. b. A flat sole attached at the front of the shoe to keep the shoe from sinking into soft ground. c. A metal sole attached at the heel of the boot; used to make an entrance during aceremonial event. d. None of the above

A flat sole attached at the front of the shoe to keep the shoe from sinking into soft ground.

Instead of the cone-shaped Spanish farthingale, what was placed around the waist in order to give skirt greater width below the waist? A. A tight lace-up B. A lot of buttons C. A padded roll D. A loose belt

A padded roll

. Which of the following was a primary contributing factor in the spread of fashion information throughout Europe during the Northern Renaissance? (6th Ed., 209) A. Intermarriage of royal families across national borders B. Cross cultural trade between developing civilizations throughout Europe C. Trade and sumptuary laws D. Buying and selling wealth acquired during military campaigns

A. Intermarriage of royal families across national borders

Which of the following is a correct description of Canions? a) A wide and stiffly starched collar, separate from the shirt. b) An extension from the end of the trunk hose to the knees or slightly below. c) A row of small, square flaps that was placed just below the waist. d) An outer garment or surcote made either sleeveless or with one of several types of sleeve.

An extension from the end of the trunk hose to the knees or slightly below.

What is a petticoat? (Page 181, Edition 4) A. An underskirt women wore with an over dress. B. An embroidered coat that women wore to special events. C. A small coat that was worn with a chemise. D. A ruffled cuff of the chemise.

An underskirt women wore with an over dress.

What is the primary source of information about what people wore in the 15th Century? a. Art b. Contemporary Accounts c. Fashion Plates d. Statues

Art

In France, what cloaks such capes were called after a popular military hero? A. Cassocks B. Balagny C. Casaques D. Pantaloon

Balagny

Which of the following was worn with a jacket or doublet for civil dress or over armor formilitary dress? a) Jerkin b) Base c) Stomacher d) Paltock

Base

Which of the following are separate short skirts worn with a jacket or doublet for civil dress or over armor for military dress? a. Bases b. Jerkin c. Hose d. Breeches

Bases

These are all the acceptable names for the unbleached linen or cotton in an infant's layette except: a. Tailclouts. b. Biggins. c. Diapers. d. Nappies.

Biggins

What is the special term for black thread/embroidery on white clothing, also referred to as "Spanish work"? (pg. 210) a) black work b) black lining c) dark sewing d) contrast stitching

Black Work

What type of lace was utilized in Europe, right before the 16th century? a. Needlepoint lace b. Bobbin lace c. Both a and b d. Neither

Bobbin Lace

What is inserted down the center of the stay (known as corset) during the 16th century? A. Wheel B. Peascod belly C. Bum rolls D. Busk

Busk

What is the name of the device that is made from a long piece of wood or whalebone that was sewn into the casings in the stays? a)Verdugale b)Busk c)Bombast d)Bum Roll

Busk

Which fabric was hand-painted or printed and sometimes glazed? a) Calico b) Chintz c) Muslin d) Crocade

Chintz

All of the following are false for coral EXCEPT: a. Coral is used to decorate leather shoes. b. Coral is used as jewelry for royalty. c. Coral provides a cool, hard surface for babies to bite on when they are teething. d. Coral is giving to a child when they reach adulthood

Coral provides a cool, hard surface for babies to bite on when they are teething

What was used as a teething ring for wealthy infants in the 17th century? (p.261) A. Bits of scrap fabric were fashioned into small decorative pillows for infants to gnaw to soothe the need to teethe. B. Basket handles were given to babies to facilitate the teething process. C. Coral set in silver or gold provided a cool, hard surface for babies to bite into in order to relieve the pain. D. Strips of rubber were used to create a 17th century teething ring, of sorts.

Coral set in silver or gold provided a cool hard surface for babies to bite into in order to relieve the pain

Muckinder

Definition hankerchief that was pinned to the front of the dress for extra protection for children

Where did the slopp originate from? a) France' b) Spain c) England d) Dutch

Dutch

Diapers

English called clouts or nappies, linen cloth made in a checked pattern and made from unbleached linen or cotton

Nappies

English called them tail clouts, Americans-diapers, linen cloth made in a checked pattern and made from unbleached linen or cotton

What style of collar replaced the ruff in men's wear from around 1625 to 1650? a. Latchets b. Canons c. Basque d. Falling Band

Falling Band

What is the headdress made of a series of ruffles held in place with wire supports? a) Fontage b) Bonnet c) Pantofles d) Copotain

Fontage

Love lock

French and English men of fashion grew one lock of hair longer than the rest

During the Renaissance, which headdress had a pillbox-like shape with a turned-brim? (pg. 222-223, 6th edition) a) Copotain b) Gabled c) French bonnet d) Beret

French bonnet

Henry VII split from the Roman Church because A. He wanted to divorce his wife Katherine B. He had outside influence C. The church abused citizens' rights D. The church was becoming too powerful

He wanted to divorce his wife Katherine

What does "sad-colored" mean for Puritan costume? (page 202, Edition 4) A. It was a term used to define the color palettes of certain clothing items. B. It was a term to describe Puritan dress as lacking vibrancy and interest. C. It was a term that was used to describe texture of the fabric used. D. It was not a term in the Seventeenth Century during the time of the Puritans.

It was a term to describe Puritan dress as lacking vibrancy and interest.

Which of the following is constructed entirely from threads, dispensing with any backing fabric? a. Filet b. Lacis c. Cutwork d. Lace

Lace

What type of footwear had large, open sides and extensions? A) Straight soles B) Latchets C) Casaques D) Slap soles

Latchets

Which style is a head accessory? a. Basque b. Mantilla c. Casaques d. Balagny

Mantilla

What garment is the construction of the mantua thought to derive from? a) Middle eastern robes b) Capes c) Himation d) Doric chiton

Middle eastern robes

The spirit of the Renaissance in the arts and in philosophy gradually moved to: a. India b. Northern Europe c. North America d. China

Northern Europe

All of the following garments were worn during its appropriates date except A. Petticoats 1658-1680 B. Sherryvallies worn from 1776 to 1830 C. Pants 16th century D. Overalls 18th century

Pants 16th cent.

Which of the following was not men's garment in 16th century in Europe? a. breeches b. petticoat c. canions d. hose

Petticoat

What's the name of the garment that have the appearance of being a divided skirt? (Edition 5,Ch 9, pg.247) A .medici collar b. petticat breeches c. justacorps d. waistcoat

Petticoat Breeches

Codpieces were sometimes padded to create: a. Protection b. Emphasis c. Status d. Privacy

Protection

What religious group find the use of cosmetics as an "evil practice"? a. Lutherans. b. Catholics. c. Calvinists. d. Puritans.

Puritans

Who wore a wheel farthingale during the reign? (Edition 5, Ch 8, pg. 218) a. Queen Katharine of Aragon b. Queen Elizabeth I c. Queen Mary of England d. King Henry VIII

Queen Elizabeth I

What was the most characteristic feature of men's costume in the second half of the 16thcentury? a) Doublet b) Breeches c) Codpiece d) Ruff

Ruff

What is the name of a leg covering worn primarily by horseback riders, especially over another bifurcated garment, that buttoned up on the outside of the leg? (6th Ed., 245) A. Knickerbockers B. Rhinegraves C. Overalls D. Sherryvallies

Sherryvallies

Why was there a law passed to limit the width of shoes to 6 inches? a. People wanted regulations for everything. b. Shoes had become too wide. c. There is no such regulation. d. Queen Mary declared that only her shoes can be wider than 6 inches.

Shoes had become too wide

What kind of fabric was woven on a draw loom? a) Silk b) Wool c) Linen d) Nylon

Silk

The pickadils were rows of square, square flaps that were placed where? a) Below the waist b) Below the ankles c) Around the sleeves d) Around the neck

Sleeves

Where is origin of the garment ropa ? a. China b. England c. France d. Spain

Spain

The Spanish mantilla is an example of a. Spain's prosperous middle class b. Spanish conservatism in the 17th Century c. Spain's trade with the near east d. Spain's royal court precedent

Spanish conservatism in the 17th Cent

Mantilla

Spanish veil worn to cover the hair that has come to be associated with traditional Spanish costume, is a smaller version of the mantle

Which undergarment had been known as a pair of bodys before the 17th century? a) stays b) busk c) verdugale d) bum roll

Stays

What is a bombast? A) Small, square collar of a shirt B) A large, padded breech C) Stuffing made of wool, horsehair, or linen D) An undergarment used for protection and warmth

Stuffing made of wool, horsehair, or linen

After 1500, the term jerkin was... A.) A style of dress worn primarily by royalty. B.) A gown with long, hanging sleeves. C.) Synonymous for Jacket and often worn over doublets and cut the same length. D.) A short skirt worn with a jacket or doublet.

Synonymous for Jacket and often worn over doublets and cut the same length.

What is the etymology of the Peascod belly? (p.215) A. The Peascod belly is based off of the popular idiom "peas in a pod", referring to how tight the doublet was worn around the waist. B. The Peascod belly is modeled after the puffed out chest of a peacock due tothe amounts of padding around the waist. C. The Peascod belly is named as such due to Mary, Queen of Scots awaiting her execution by Queen Elizabeth I of England. Her last wishes were that of peacefor Scots, thus, the term "Peascod" was born. The Peascod belly is a style thatshe had originally brought into vogue. D. The Peascod belly is in reference to how the tail of a cod tapers off into pecadils,creating a similar silhouette to that of the 15th century trend.

The Peascod belly is modeled after the puffed out chest of a peacock due to the amounts of padding around the waist

How is bobbin lace made a)Through embroidering over base threads arranged in a pattern with small intricate stitches b) Through crocheting with very thin threads c) Through twisting or knotting a series of threads d) Through a sewing machine

Through embroidering over base threads arranged in a pattern with small intricate stitches

What is the purpose of the slap soles? A. To keep the heel of the shoe or boot from sinking into soft ground. B. To keep the shoe or boot from bending as the wearer walks. C. To make loud noise as the wearer walks. D. To add height so the wearer will appear taller.

To keep the heel of the shoe or boot from sinking into soft ground

A notable Spanish costume practice of the 17th century was the belated adoption of a style similar to the French farthingale known as the... A.) Guardinfante B.) Mantilla C.) Verdugado D.) Siamoises

Verdugado

Which term defines a "flared, cone-shaped skirt [used] to achieve the desired rigidity of line" (220). a) aiguillettes b) verdugale c) supportasse d) French farthingale

Verdugale

This type of sleeve was paned and tied into a series of puffs: a. Braided b. Surtout c. Whisk d. Virago

Virago

Virago sleeve

Virago sleeve-sleeves often very full on gowns and fashionable jackets, were puffed out and frequently paned

What is slashing?

a decorative technique involving making small cuts on the outer fabric of a garment in order to reveal the sometimes brightly colored inner garment or lining. 1514

Pomander balls

ball made of perfumes worn or carried in a vase as protection against infection or to modify bad smalls, hung from neck chain or attached to a girdle 17th cent middle ages; gold or silver

What is not true about the mantua? a) It is thought to be derived from the construction of Middle Eastern robes b) Bodice and skirt were cut in one length from shoulder to hem c) The garment was worn under a corset without an underskirt d) It was worn loose for casual wear

c) The garment was worn under a corset without an underskirt

Which of the following item was not prohibited by the sumptuary law? a) Band b) Head rails c) Embroidery d) Camblett

camblett

What is the name of the full, wide ruffles attached at the bottom of breeches? A. Petticoat B. Rhinegraves C. Canions D. Latchets

canions

Biggin

cap for children

Going frock

children old enough to walk wore these shorter dresses

Carrying frock

coats cut with wide full sleeves that were wide throughout the body and ended at thigh height or below

Manua, manteau

construction for women's dresses with bodice and skirt cut in one length from shoulder to hem; full in both back and front worn over a corset and an underskirt

How did the Spanish farthingale provide support for flared, cone-shaped skirts? a) A wheel drum was fastened to the waistband b) It used a frame base around the hips called the supportasse c) Knots Fastened tightly below the corset d) It used whalebone or steel hoops sewn into a petticoat

d) It used whalebone or steel hoops sewn into a petticoat

Pinafore

derived from the practice of pinning this garment to the front or forepart of the going frock

Petticoat breeches-rhinegraves

divided skirt like a modern culotte, cut so full that it gave the appearance of a short skir

Throughout the century men wore an evolved form of the earlier braies, which the English tended to refer to as ______. A. underwear B. shorts C. drawers D. trousers

drawers

Falling bands

flat collar on shirt that replaced the ruff

Tricorne

flat hats with turned or cocked up at one or more points were often seen with the brim turned up at three points to form a triangle

Ribbons of childhood

flat ribbons attached to help child learn to walk and control their movements

Galosh

flat soled overshoe with a toe cap for keeping it in place; during Louis XIV

Commode

fontage, a device made of a series of ruffles held in place with wire supports place on top of women's hair

The french name for a device made of a series of ruffles held in place with wire supports. It is also known as a commode in England. a) mantua b) fontange c) surtouts d) casaques

fontange

Canions

full wide ruffles attached at the bottom of breeches

Which term was not used "to prevent umbilical hernias or to promote an upright posture" (261). a) stays b) staybands c) rollers d)going frocks

going frocks

Pantofles

heel-less slippers or mules that became more popular, derives from Greek word for cork

Copotain

high crowned small brimmed hats were associated with supporters of Puritan faction

Jack boots

high rigid bots made of heavy leather worn for horseback riding in the latter 1600s

What is fontange? a. is a headdress popular during 17th century in Europe. b. is a footwear popular during 17th century in Europe. c. is a type of garment popular during 17th century in Europe. d. is a woman's mask for outdoor worn with hood popular during 17th century in Europe

is a headdress popular during 17th century in Europe

Justacorps-surtout

knee length coats that replaced doublets as outer garments, fitted straight sleeves with turned back cuffs and buttoned down the front, completely covered the breeches and waistcoat

Surtout

knee length coats that replaced doublets as outer garments, fitted straight sleeves with turned back cuffs and buttoned down the front, completely covered the breeches and waistcoat

Cravat

long narrow scarf like pieces separate from the shirt were worn instead of collars

Draw loom

loom that elaborately figured silk fabrics had to be produced on; required small boy to sit on top and manually raise and lower sets of yarns in order to create a pattern

Breeches

made with seams on outside and inside of each leg, hung from waist, had varying degrees of fullness

Whisk

necks were edged by a wide lace collar or band of linen

Which of the following is used for civilian dress, during 18th century and used earlier for military dress? A. breeches B. pantaloons C. sherryvallies D. rhinegraves

pantaloon

Which of the following is not a decoration technique used for decorating fabric in the 16th century? a) patlock b) pillow lace c) filet d) needlepoint lace

patlock

what was the main function of undergarments for women? a. provide warmth b. protect the skin from garments worn closest to the body c. shape the body d. prevent and absorb perspiration

provide warmth

Which of the following was not a major trend in accessories during the 17th century for both men and women? (pg. 257-259 6th edition) a) Gloves b) Handkerchiefs c) Purses d) Scarf

purses

Stomacher

separate stomachers could be tied or pinned o the front of the corset to vary the appearance of a dress

What are galoshes? (pg. 250) a) pants b) jewelry c) shoes d) headdresses

shoe

Latchets

shoes with large open sides and extensions that tied across the instep

Guardinfante

similar to French farthingale, skirt was more oval than FF with greater width from side to side, bodice had basque

What's the difference between breeches and slopps? A) slopps are longer than breeches B) slopps are wider at knees C) slopps have more colors than breeches D) slopps were worn by women while breeches were worn by men

slopps are wider at knees

Plumpers

small balls of wax placed in women's cheeks to give the face a fashionably round shape

Straight solez

straights-shoes and boots that had high heels without shaping for left or right feet

Which one of these were not a major element in the costume for the 17th Century men? a) The doublet b) The Jerkin c) The trunk hose d) The basque

the basque

This invention allowed for closer fitting hose: a. jacquard loom b. knitting machine c. treadle-powered spinning wheel d. four harness loom

treadle-powered spinning wheel

Waistcoat

vest, below the knee length worn over narrow breeche

Vest

waistcoat of below the knee length worn over narrow breeches

Basque

waistline of guardinfante

Modeste

what French called the outer layer of skirts

Secret

what French called the under layer of skirts

Which of the following is the possible hairstyle for men in 17th century? a. bareheaded b. wore long, curling wigs c. cut the hair a little bit below the ears. d. dress their own hair in long, straight styles.

wore long, curling wigs