FASH 100 Exam 3

Categories in Women's Apparel

-Outerwear -Dresses -Blouses -Suits -after five and Evening Wear -Bridal Wear -Sportswear and Separates -Activewear/athleisure -Uniforms and Aprons -Maternity -Innerwear -Special Needs

public relations

Any communication that fosters a favorable image for the fashion brand or retailer Nonpersonal or personal Paid or nonpaid Sponsor-controlled or not

publicity

Any nonpersonal form of public relations whereby messages are transmitted through mass media, the time or space provided by the media is not paid for (free), and there is no identified commercial sponsor

fashion reporting

Careers in fashion reporting extend beyond fashion magazines General Consumer Publications Majority of newspapers report on fashion and devote regular weekly sections to fashion New York Times, LA Times, Washington Post, Wall St. Journal T Magazine (NY Times Style Magazine) Publishes special issues on fashion Pop Culture Magazines give extensive coverage to fashion New York, Time Out, Paper, Vanity Fair Trade Publications Published just for the fashion industry; rarely found on newsstands Keep industry readers informed of news Technical developments, fashion trend analysis, current business conditions, new products Women's Wear Daily (WWD) Best known publication in the industry Often referred to as the "bible" of the fashion industry Published daily digitally Footwear News Published weekly Covers shoe news and fashion trends Business of Fashion Published daily digitally Features own editorial content & that curated from other news sources Vogue Business Published daily digitally More industry/business influenced than vogue.com Sourcing Journal Published daily digitally Focuses on textiles, product development, manufacturing, and international trade

trade association

Fashion Group International Nonprofit global association of professional women working in the fashion industry Founded in 1930 and has evolved into an important consulting and research agency www.fgi.org National Retail Federation Largest retail trade organization in the U.S. Disseminates information and advice through daily digital newsletters Holds annual conference in NYC every January Marist has a student chapter of NRF www.nrf.com

history of mens apparel

Late 1700s •Tailors in port cities opened "slop shops" selling ready made suits to sailors who didn't have time to have a tailored suit made 1818 •D.H. Brooks & Co opened for business (name changed to Brooks Brothers in 1850). Oldest retailer in America, started offering men's RTW in 1849. Industrial Revolution •Men adopted the low of a conservatively cut, dark-colored suit •Clothing could now be mass produced •1846: Sewing machine was invented •1863: Paper patterns were invented Great Depression •Men's RTW was finally accepted by the majority of men Post-war Era •Just like with women's apparel, sportswear became popular for men

single-breasted jacket

ONLY ONE ROW OF BUTTONS, fastened in center

small leather goods

Often manufactured & merchandised with handbags Includes: Wallets Wristlets Card cases Passport holders Key fobs/chains Cosmetic bags/dopp kits Cell phone cases Organizers/planners Luggage tags Not required to be made of leather

advertising

Paid, nonpersonal communication transmitted through mass media by an identified sponsor

store design

Planning the layout of a store takes several objectives into account: Visual appeal Communicate brand image and values Layout of fixtures Color schemes Maximizing sales Types of fixtures Lighting Ease of movement & comfort Security concerns & building codes Retailers utilize architects, interior designers, and construction firms to design stores

advertising agencies

Provide a broad range of services to create marketing campaigns Can range from small businesses to large companies with departments for market research, sales & account management, creative, copywriting and graphic design

public relations agencies

Responsible for promoting news about a fashion brand and maintaining/improving a company's image Utilizes press releases, social media campaigns and story pitches to news media Plan & coordinates special events such as runway shows Facilities publicity around charitable and social good acts

fashion media

Successful brands require effective communication Using media is crucial to developing and delivering the brand message to the customer Media includes Print, television, radio, social media, internet Categories of Media Services Advertising Paid, nonpersonal communication transmitted through mass media by an identified sponsor Publicity Any nonpersonal form of public relations whereby messages are transmitted through mass media, the time or space provided by the media is not paid for (free), and there is no identified commercial sponsor Public Relations Any communication that fosters a favorable image for the fashion brand or retailer Nonpersonal or personal Paid or nonpaid Sponsor-controlled or not

double breasted jacket

TWO PARALLEL ROWS OF BUTTONS, has a larger overlap

visual merchandising

The arrangement and presentation of merchandise in store windows and on the selling floor Includes signage and visual props Supports the retailer's image Motivates customers to enter the store Planograms are developed to help decide where to put merchandise on the selling floor Created by the corporate office visual team and distributed to store visual teams to execute Corporate and Store positions exist Smaller retailers often hire freelance visual merchandisers

fashion magazine careers

Writers/Reporters - research ideas, conduct interviews, author articles on fashion news Fashion Critics - write reviews on runway shows, new products, and collections Editors - work with brands to choose the latest products as subjects for the articles and features Photographers & Art Directors - manage the overall look of the magazine through the development and selection of images, layout and design Publisher/Sales - responsible for ad page sales Public Relations - promotion of magazines through special events and sponorships

fish mouth lapel

a notch lapel with a small notch that resembles the mouth of a fish

clover lapel

a notch lapel with rounded lapels that form the shape of a clover leaf

tuxedo lapel

a shawl lapel with a piece of stain that wraps all the way around

fly-away jacket

also called trapeze- large back and sides-exaggerated flare and fullness

dinner jacket

also known as a tuxedo, satin on the jackets lapels and buttons

white tie jacket

also known as evening dress jacket, most formal dress in menswear, used for ceremonial functions or formal balls

peak lapel

also known as pointed lapel, most formal, featuring on double-breasted jackets, all formal coats such as a tailcoat or morning coat

down jacket

also known as puffer jacket

shawl lapel

also known as roll collar, is a continuous curve-orginally seen on Victorian smoking jacket-now most common on the dinner jacket or tux

baseball jacket

also known as varisty or letter jacket

safari jacket

born for the purpose of going on safari-lightweight cotton drill, khaki color, belt and four pockets

bomber jacket

casual jacket that was orginally created for military pilots and eventually became part of popular apparel.

cardigan jacket

collarless jacket of any length with front button closing. neckline may be round or v shaped

lumber jacket

cozy brushed wool workshirt, checkered pattern, two front pockets

T-Shaped Lapel

cut resembles a T, the collar is wider than the lower lapels

L-Shaped Lapel

cut resembles an L

Notched Shawl lapel

follows the shape of the notched lapel-no cut as the tuxedo

mess jacket

formal jacket that ends on the waist, features a double breast without lacing, the jackets have a shawl or pointed lapel-born as part of a military uniform

framed lapel

has a seam around the edge that sometimes stitches the collar also on the jacket

nehru jacket

hip length coat with mandarin collar, front modelled on the indian achkan or sherwani, garment worn by prime minister of india

Chinese jacket

hip length, straight jacket with band collar and side front closing

Norfolk Jacket

hip-length with two box pleats-stitched from shoulder to hem-except for a slot at the waist through which the matching belt is threaded-may have hip-level patch pockets

chesterfield lapel

lapel of the chesterfield jacket-the upper part of the collar is made out of velvet

western jacket

made from a soft sueded leather, trimmed with fringe, derives from deerskin clothing worn by native americans

biker jacket

made of black leather with a masculine silhouette, became a staple item within the biker communities

mackinaw jacket

made of heavy water repellent woolen cloth

Chelsea collar

medium-wide collar with square pointed ends attached to a front opening v neckline

notch lapel

most common lapel-sewn to the collar at an angle, creating a step effect-this is the standard on single breasted suits

pointed flat collar

narrow collar with squared ends at center front-also known as bermuda

tab lapel

presents a fastening with a small tab on the left and a hidden button on the right

bolero jacket

short, waist length, or above waist, may be long sleeved, short sleeved or sleeveless

battle jacket

slightly below waist length jacket with fitted waistband and notched collar-usually has patch pockets with flaps

box jacket

straight unfitted jacket, waist length or longer-may or may not have a collar

retailer's adage

to have the RIGHT MERCHANDISE at the RIGHT TIME in the RIGHT QUANTITIES at the RIGHT PRICE in the RIGHT PLACE •If any of the 5 R's in the Retailer's Adage is incorrect all of the R's will collapse • •An extraordinary amount of planning & effort goes into merchandising and retailing fashion products • •Retailing in many ways is the heart of the fashion industry, but •It is the most challenging end of the fashion business •It exists in a constant state of change

smoking jacket

traditional coat reserved for evening home wear, style staple of black tie and evening wear for a night

Napoleone lapel

two parts separated, resembeling jackets worn by Napoleon

ulster lapel

type of notched lapel with a seam around the edge-lapels are notched a certain way so they can be easily folded when the coat is buttoned up to the bottom

Johnny collar

very small high stand collar attached to a v neck line-usually a single-layer knitted collar

denim jacket

visible seams, large patch pockets

jacket lengths

waist hipbone 2 inches below hip crotch rule of thumb three quarter seven eights

bell boy jacket

waist length, fitted jacket, stand-up collar, trimmed with brass buttons

Spencer Jacket

waist length, single breasted, shawl collar

chubby jacket

waist or hip length, heavily padded shoulders, sleeves the same length as the coat-usually made of fur to give a bulky look

eton jacket

waist to hip length-high stand notched collar and wide lapels worn unbuttoned or with only top button closed

tyrolean jacket

waist to hip length-may have wide lapels

business of accessories

•$85.6 billion in footwear sales annually in the U.S. •$10.1 billion in handbag sales annually in the U.S. •Provide customers with a jolt of fresh fashion and instant access to the latest trends Aspirational Customers Accessories are often the first piece of a designer brand that a customer invests in. Accessories can be used/worn more frequently than clothing so is seen as a better investment by the consumer

watches

•1904 - Louis Cartier introduced the modern wristwatch •Pocket watches were the predominating timepiece •4 types of watches •Mechanical •Must be hand wound •Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Tag Heuer, Omega, Harry Winston, Bvlgari, Montblanc, David Yurman, Chanel •1950s Timex made watches affordable to the masses •Self-winding •Wind themselves as the wearer moves their wrist •Quartz movement •Invented in the 1970s •Requires batteries •1980s Swatch watches gained popularity with their casual & colorful aesthetic •Fossil, Movado, and Armitron are leaders in the market •Digital •Includes smartwatches

ILGWU (accomplishments)

•Continuing the fight for better worker's rights they successfully negotiated for: •35 hour, 5 day work week •Paid vacations •Health, welfare & pension programs •The ILGWU financed housing projects & recreational centers •From 1975-1995 the ILGWU fought imports •"Look for the Union Label" campaign

operational policies

•Deal with maintaining the store & keeping the customer satisfied •Ambiance •Atmosphere that is encountered when entering a store •Key in creating the image of a store •Sensory retailing •Stimulating all of the customer's senses while shopping •Promotional Activities •Advertising & Publicity •Social media plays a significant role •Frequent Shopper Programs •Reward customers for their loyalty •Special discounts, merchandise previews, gifts & samples •Customer Services •Activities that increase the value customers receive when they shop •Store hours, parking, return policies, delivery, alterations, repairs, credit plans, registries •Selling Services •Engagement •Being polite, genuinely caring, and interested in helping the customer, acknowledging their needs •Executional Excellence •Patiently explaining & advising, helpful, having product knowledge •Brand Experience •Exciting store atmosphere, consistently great product quality, making customers feel special and receiving a good value •Expediting •Sensitive to the customer's time •Problem Recovery •Helping resolve and compensate for problems, ensuring complete satisfaction

Non-Store Retailers

•E-commerce •Sales made via the internet •Includes M-commerce •Sales made on mobile devices •E-commerce sales were 14.3% of total U.S. retail sales in 2018 •Most retailers have some form of e-commerce •Social media generates brand awareness, drives traffic to e-commerce websites and has become a sales platform •Catalogs •Catalog is the store & the copy is your salesperson •Can be highly targeted to specific market segments •While still be printed, catalogs now have an e-commerce version as well •Direct Selling (Mary Kay) •Independent (mostly part-time) salespeople sell product to customers in their homes •Often use a party-plan method and network marketing •Today, direct selling incorporates e-commerce •Examples •LulaRoe, Peach, Carlisle Collection, Stella & Dot, Mary Kay, Tupperware, Avon, Pampered Chef •TV Home Shopping •Infomercials & TV Shopping Networks •Originally shoppers would call in •Now uses e-commerce •HSN, QVC, ShopNBC •Billions in annual sales and 100+ million viewers

fashion leadership positions

•Fashion Leaders •Feature newly introduced styles that have limited production & distribution •Designer collections •Examples •Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue •Traditional Retailers •Features fashion is the late rise or early culmination stage •Bridge or contemporary collections •Better or moderate-priced lines •Examples •Macy's, Dillard's •Mass Merchants •Features widely accepted merchandise in the culmination phase •Moderate to low prices •Examples •Kohl's, Target

jewelry categories

•Fine Jewelry •Handcrafted, akin to haute couture clothing •Precious metals & gemstones •Platinum & gold •Solid gold is 24K •Gemstones comes from natural mineral formations •Precious Gemstones •Diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires •Fine Gemstones •19 different gemstones including: •Amethyst, Aquamarine, Citrine, Garnet, Jade, Opal, Peridot, Topaz, Turquoise •Pearls •Real pearls occur naturally with no aid by humans •Cultured pearls are formed by an oyster around an irritant placed in the oyster's body by a person •Iconic Fine Jewelry Houses •Tiffany & Co, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston, Graff, Bvlgari, Boucheron •Notable Independent Fine Jewelers •David Yurman, John Hardy, Judith Ripka •Costume Jewelry •Mass-produced, akin to mass-produced RTW •Wide range of materials •Wood, glass, base metals, clay, plastic •Popularized by Coco Chanel •Long, large faux strands of pearls worn with her clothes •Large firms dominate •Carolee, Kenneth Jay Lane, Swarovski •Kate Spade, Tory Burch •Bridge Jewelry •Between fine & costume •Sterling silver •Ethnic Jewelry •Pieces from all over the world at all price points •Inspired by international cultures •Religious or spiritual symbols

merchandising policies

•Focus on the merchandise offering •Which stage of the fashion cycle will be emphasized •What level of quality will be maintained •What price range will be offered •What type of merchandise assortment will be carried •What brands will be offered •How exclusive will the products be •Fashion Cycle Emphasis •Will the store carry new fashions at the rise stage? •Will it sell merchandise at the culmination stage to the masses? •Quality •Three general levels of quality •Top: finest materials & workmanship •Intermediate: maintains quality focused at certain price levels •Serviceable: materials & workmanship consistent with low prices •Price Ranges •Retailers tie price range to the level of quality in their product •Price plays a major role in the type of customer that a retailer will attract •Brand •The brands carried by a retailer help differentiate it from the competition •Retailers must choose between or a combination of •National Brands •Designer Brands •Private Labels •Store Brands •Assortment •Range of merchandise a retailer carries •Depth •Number of choices offered within each brand or product classification •Deep •Large stock available in each product •Shallow •Small amounts of stock available in each product •Breadth •Number of product lines or number of brands carried within a product classification •Narrow •Allows the store to offer fewer brands in a larger number of styles, colors, sizes & materials •Broad •Offers a wide variety of lines or brands •Allows the retailer to appeal to a larger market •Exclusivity •Offering products that are not available at other stores in the trading area

retailing policies

•General & specific guidelines and goals are established by store management to keep the store on track

different types of merchandise and store formats

•General Merchandise Retailers •Sell many kinds of merchandise in addition to apparel •Try to appeal to a broad range of customers •Many position their merchandise at different price points •Low, mid, high •Formats include: •Department Stores •Full Line Discount Stores •Variety Stores •Off-Price Stores •Specialty Retailers •Offer limited lines of related merchandise •Target a more specific customer •Formats include: •Specialty Stores •Boutiques •Category Killers •Factory Outlets •Department Stores •Large store size •Freestanding flagships located "downtown" in large cities •Anchors in malls in suburban areas •Several departments with a deep selection of product in each •Apparel & accessories •Home goods & housewares •Some have appliances & furniture •Cosmetics •Examples •National •Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom •Macy's, Bloomingdales, Lord & Taylor •Sears, J.C. Penney, Kohl's •Regional •Bergdorf Goodman, Dillard's •Boscov's, Belk, Von Maur •Full-Line Discount Store •aka Discount Department Store •High volume, low cost •Carries items that were once expected only at department stores •General merchandise •Soft goods: apparel, linens •Hard goods: appliances, housewares •Brands carried •Private label: only carried in that store •National brands: carried by a variety of stores •Shopping carts, centralized checkout •Lower customer service standards •Inexpensive building & fixtures •Examples: •Target, Walmart, K-mart •Variety Stores •Inexpensive, popular priced items in plain setting •Don't carry full product lines •Little customer service •Examples •Family Dollar, Dollar General

pioneering retailer types in america

•In America, markets & stores grew around heavily populated areas •As areas were settled, retailers followed •First retailers started in the Northeast •As people moved West, retailers established to meet the needs of new settlers •Trading Posts •Established by European settlers to swap furs for basic supplies •General Store •Evolved from Trading Posts •Sold a wide range of merchandise - everything their customers needed •Dry goods, hardware, fabric, canned goods, etc. •Peddlers •Traveled to remote locations to sell their wares •Carried news from the bigger cities/towns

sportswear

•In the 1930s-1950s, American women started to enjoy more leisure activities •American designers began developing "sportswear" to meet the American women's needs •Claire McCardell, Bonnie Cashin, Clare Potter •From its launch, sportswear consisted of coordinated separates that could be easily mixed & matched •Shirts, blouses and knits worn with skirts, pants and shorts •Sportswear soon became the dress of the American middle class •The 1970s saw the rise of the American Sportswear designer as a lifestyle brand •Anne Klein, Perry Ellis, Ralph Lauren, Bill Blass, Geoffrey Beene, Calvin Klein •Today sportswear encompasses casual streetwear and dressy looks •Denim continues to play a key role •Has become a global phenomenon, but maintains an American sensibility

retail locations

•Isolated Store •A freestanding retail store located on a street •No adjacent retailers with which this type of store shares traffic •Unplanned Business District •2 or more stores situated together in such a way that variety of stores is NOT due to prior long-range planning •"Downtown", Main Street •Neighborhood Business District •Planned Shopping Center •Architecturally unified commercial establishments that is centrally owned or managed •Stores in center complement each other in terms of quality and variety of product offerings •Regional Malls •Strip Malls Outlet malls

Global Footwear Industry

•Italian designers known for quality craftmanship & styling •Salvatore Ferragamo •Created the first wedge in 1937 •The one pictured to the right was created for Judy Garland in 1938. •Tod's •Introduced iconic driving shoe with 133 rubber "pebbles" in the late 1970s •Prada •Gucci •Brazil has several well-known shoe companies & factories •Vince Camuto produces in Brazil •Arezzo •Havaianas •Melissa

footwear industry in the USA

•Like apparel, footwear was a major industry in the Northeast at the turn of the 20th century •1911: L.L. Bean invented his boot that combined leather uppers with rubber bottoms •1916: Keds launched its canvas-topped, rubber-soled shoe •1917: Converse All-Star was first released •1878 - Brown Shoe Company founded in St. Louis instead of shipping in shoes from New England •Owns several brands including: •1922 Allen Edmonds was founded(bought by Caleres in 2017) •Naturalizer was launched in 1927 •Dr. Scholl's which released its iconic wooden sandal in 1959 •Changed name to Caleres in 2015 •1952 - Timberland began when its founder bought a half-interest in the Abington Shoe Company •1973 - their iconic yellow boot was invented •1964 - Bill Bowerman, track coach at U of Oregon and his former student Phil Knight founded Nike (originally named Blue Ribbon Sports) •Bowerman wanting the give his runners a competitive edge with a lighter running shoe, used his wife's waffle iron to meld his design of latex, leather and some glue. •1978 - name changed to Nike, Inc. •Has grown to be the largest shoe producer in the U.S.A. •1978 - Vince Camuto & Jack Fisher opened Nine West •In 2001 Vince Camuto launched the Camuto group and obtained the license to produce shoes for several brands •BCBG Max Azria, Tory Burch, Lucky Brand Jeans, Banana Republic •2005 - introduced his namesake line of shoes

iconic shoe designers

•Manolo Blahnik •Worked as a theater set designer •On a trip to NYC in 1970, met with Vogue editor Diana Vreeland who encouraged him to design shoes •Roger Vivier •Credited with creating the stiletto in 1954 •Designed shoes for Dior from 1953-1963 •Christian Louboutin •Opened his first namesake store in Paris in 1992 •Known for his red-soled shoes handcrafted in Italy •Jimmy Choo •Malaysian-born cobbler opened a made-to-order shoe boutique in London in 1986. Clients included Princess Diana •Partnered with Tamara Mellon, British Vogue Accessories editor to form Jimmy Choo Ltd. In 1996 •2001 Choo sold his stake in the company, but his niece, Sandra, Choi stayed on as co-creative director

Triangle Shirtwaist Factory

•March 25, 1911 •occupied the 8th-10th floors in the Asch Building •When the fire started the workers were trapped on locked floors -shirtwaists were blouses that looked like mens shirts for working women ***sweatshop •146 workers died •Mostly young immigrant women •Turning point for the clothing work unions •Public sympathy helped them gain concessions •3 months after the fire, NY Governor created the Factory Investigating Commission •222 witnesses were interviewed •1836 factories were inspected •NY State legislature quickly enacted 36 statues to regulate workplaces including: •Minimum standards for working women •Fire safety •Ventilation •Elimination of child labor

jewelry

•Methods of jewelry making have changed little over time •The jewelry industry can be divided into 4 categories •Fine Jewelry •Focus on classic styles to be worn forever •Costume Jewelry (Fashion) •Seasonal collections offered •Bridge Jewelry •Ethnic Jewelry •Watches are separated from jewelry •Dominated by small companies •90% of jewelry producers in the U.S. are small companies •Numerous trade organizations

womens apparel size ranges

•Misses (Missy) •Cut to fit the average adult woman's figure •Between 5'5" and 5'9" and of average weight •Includes regular even-numbered sizes 0-22 •0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 •XS=0/2, S=4/6, M=8/10, L=12/14, XL=16/18 •Juniors •Designed to fit a slimmer, shorter-waisted figure •Common with a teenager •Youthful styling is prevalent in this size range •Includes regular odd-number sizes 1-21 •1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21 •Women's (Plus or Curvy) •Intended to fit adult women of average or above height and a heavier, more mature body •Includes even-number sizes 14W-28W •14W, 16W, 18W, 20W, 22W, 24W, 26W, 28W •1X=14W/16W, 2X=18W/20W, 3X=22W/24W •Petites •Intended to fit adult women shorter than 5'4" and of average build •Girth measurements are similar to misses but lengths are shorter •Skirt and pant legs are shorter, sleeves are shorter •Includes even-numbered sizes 0P-22P •0P, 2P, 4P, 6P, 8P, 10P, 12P, 14P, 16P, 18P, 20P, 22P •Women's Petites •Intended to fit adult women who are technically considered plus size, but are shorter than 5'4" •Includes even-number sizes 12WP-26WP •12WP, 14WP, 16WP, 18WP, 20WP, 22WP, 24WP, 26WP

handbag industry in the USA

•Number of U.S. firms producing handbags is relatively small •Dominated by European, Asian, & South American imports •Significant U.S. Handbag Brands •Coach •Founded in 1941 •First bag inspired by a paper shopping bag •Used the small leather as baseball gloves •Bonnie Cashin designed in 1960s •Built a reputation of •"accessible luxury accessories brand" •"classic, durable, dependable" •LeSportSac •Founded in 1974 •Casual nylon bags •Functional in a wide variety of colors & prints •Dooney & Bourke •Founded in 1975 •All-weather leathergoods •Judith Leiber •Hungarian born, Holocaust survivor •Known for minaudière luxury evening bags •Kate Spade •Founded in 1993 •Former accessories editor at Mademoiselle •Debut collection had 6 silhouettes •Sleek, utilitarian shapes & colorful palettes •2007 - expanded into clothing & jewelry

depth

•Number of choices offered within each brand or product classification •Deep •Large stock available in each product •Shallow •Small amounts of stock available in each product

breadth

•Number of product lines or number of brands carried within a product classification •Narrow •Allows the store to offer fewer brands in a larger number of styles, colors, sizes & materials •Broad •Offers a wide variety of lines or brands •Allows the retailer to appeal to a larger market

European Handbag Designers

•Numerous European designers maintain their positioning with handbags that are high-end status symbols •Several houses that now offer RTW started as leather goods companies •Hermes •Founded in 1837 as a harness & saddlery shop •Paris Flagship boutique still in the same location •Early 1900s launched handbags •1937 first silk scarf was created •Louis Vuitton •After being an apprentice for 17 years under Monsieur Marechal founded his own box-maker & packer shop in 1854 •A box-maker and packer custom-made all boxes to fit the goods they stored and personally loaded and unloaded the boxes. (a precursor to luggage) •Hired as Empress Eugenie's (Napoleon III's wife) personal box-maker & packer •Succeeded by his son Georges •Created the LV monogram & an unpickable lock •Gucci •Prada •Bottega Veneta

4 types of classifying retailers

•Retailers can be classified in many different ways •Business Ownership Form •Who legally owns the business •Merchandise & Store Format •What type of merchandise is sold •How is the store set up •Retail Ownership Form •How many stores are there & the structure of the ownership •Fashion Leadership Position •At what stage in the fashion life cycle is the merchandise that is carried by the retailer

neckwear

•Silk scarves gained popularity in the 1970s •Squares & Oblongs of varying sizes •Designer scarves are famous worldwide •Hermes, Pucci, Gucci •Neckties •Standard accessory for suits for 100+ years •Majority are woven silk or polyester

variety of career opportunities in fashion

•Some are specific to fashion •Designer •Product Development •Merchandising, Buying & Planning •Showroom / Wholesale Sales •Others have fashion specialization •Fashion media, advertising, PR •Fashion marketing and promotion •Retail •Operations/Logistics •And then there are those that are needed in any business •Human Resources •Information Technology / Information Systems •Finance/Accounting •Legal

Shoe Production

•Starts with a last - a form in the shape of a foot, over which the shoe is built •Quality and price of a finished shoe is determined by: •Type of last used •Quality of materials •Type of manufacturing

menswear sizing

•Suits •Sized by the chest size and length •Chest measurement in even numbers around the fullest part of the chest •36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54 •Length is indicted by one's height •R (regular), S (short), and L (long) •Drop refers to the difference between chest and waist measurements •Standard Drop is 7 inches •Dress shirts •Two measurements •Neck is measured by the half inch around the Adam's apple •14 ½ - 20 •Sleeve length is measured from the nape of the neck to the wrist with hands at your side •32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37 •Pants •Sized by waist measurement •Waist is measured at the narrowest point of the waist •1-inch increments •30-50 •Most often are sold unhemmed •If hemmed, inseam length is also measured

eyewear

•Sunglasses & Prescription Frames •Designers license their name to manufacturers •Italian firms dominate eyewear industry •Luxottica •Chanel, Prada, RayBan, Armani, Valentino, Tory Burch, Oakley, Ralph Lauren, Coach, Burberry, Versace, Michael Kors, Oliver Peoples, Dolce & Gabbana, Persol •Owns & operates retail stores including Sunglass Hut & LensCrafters •Controls roughly 60% of sunglass sales in the U.S. •Safilo •Missoni, Moschino, Kate Spade, Givenchy, Fendi, Dior, Jimmy Choo, Marc Jacobs, Tommy Hilfiger, Banana Republic, MaxMara, Rag & Bone, Hugo Boss, Levis, Rebecca Minkoff •Sold its retail chain, Solstice in 2019 •Marcolin •Tom Ford, Tod's Skechers, Guess, Pucci, Diesel, Zegna, Adidas, Moncler, Harley Davidson, Timberland, Victoria's Secret, Kenneth Cole •Marchon •Based in NY •Nike, Nautica, Calvin Klein, Ferragamo, Chloe, Donna Karen, Lacoste, Nine West, Longchamp, Paul Smith

mail-order sellers

•The Homestead Act of 1862 which pushed settlers westward & the completion of the transcontinental railroad in 1869 lead to the birth & success of catalogs •1845 - Tiffany's Blue Book •Showcasing the jeweler's designs •Is still published annually •1872 - Montgomery Ward •Single sheet of paper listing 163 items for sale •First catalog intended for the general public •By 1892 sold over 20,000 items across 540 pages •1881 - Hammacher Schlemmer •Focused on tools & hardware •400 pages by 1896 •Eventually added housewares, appliances, toys •Still published online •1886 - Sears, Roebuck & Co. •Started with watches •By 1894 it was 322 pages •Sewing machines, baby buggies, firearms, bicycles, musical instruments, medical supplies, ovens •1908 started selling house kits •447 different designs ranging from $744 to $5972 •By 1940, Sears had sold over 70,000

classifications in mens apparel

•The menswear industry have traditionally been divided into different classifications •Tailored clothing •Suits, overcoats, topcoats, sports coats, formal wear, separate trousers •Furnishings •Dress shirts, neckwear, headwear, underwear, socks, pajamas, robes, suspenders •Sportswear •Unconstructed jackets, sport shirts, sweaters, slacks, shorts •Outerwear •Raincoats, coats, jackets •Work clothing •Work pants, work shirts, overalls •Uniforms

retail strategy

•The overall plan or framework of action that guides a retailer •Allows retailer to determines how to differentiate itself from competitors. •Allows retailer to develop an offering that appeals to a group of customers. •Convenience •As life grows faster-paced, customers are looking for easier ways to shop. •Four dimensions of customer convenience that retailers must consider: •Location •where customers have to go to make the purchase. •Time of day •when customers can make purchases. •Process •ease & speed of shopping & returns. •Assortment •what they can buy here and where else they have to go to •Customer Loyalty •Attracting customers who are loyal •Life-stage marketing targets a specific demographic & their needs •Differentiation •Creating a distinctive image and niche in the consumer's mind •Strategic Alliances •Joining forces with manufacturers to operate more efficiently •Profits are increased while providing a better product at a lower price to the consumer

womens apparel price points

•Wholesale price •The price charged by the manufacturer to the retailer for the product they have ordered •Retail price •The regular price that the retailer charges the customer •MSRP •Manufacturer's suggested retail price •Factors contributing to price include: •Quality of materials •Quality of workmanship •Amount & type of labor required in the production process •Executive & sales position structure of the organization •Overhead costs •Designer •Cater to high priced prestige or luxury market •Fabrics, construction, detailing & trims are superior in quality •Designer has free reign to creativity without much concern to cost •Sells in luxury specialty boutiques and department stores •Bridge •Bridges the price ranges between designer and better prices •Often for career separates and dresses in finer fabrics •Have the look of designer products but are made from less expensive fabrics •Often the secondary/diffusion line of fashion designers •Contemporary •More of a fashion-forward look, than just a specific price point •Favored by young designers who want to enter the market with innovative, designer quality lines •Using less expensive fabrics & having lower overhead expenses they can offer their line at lower prices• Better •Medium to higher priced merchandise •Fabrics, styling and craftmanship are of better quality than lower-priced items •Slightly higher profile lines that are found in department stores •Moderate •Lines of nationally advertised apparel brands •Appeals to middle-class consumers •Majority of clothing falls into this price range •Sold mostly in chain or department stores •Budget •Lowest price point, also known as mass market •Garments are typically at fair quality and value •Often casual sportswear •Intended for broad consu

Activewear

•apparel made for specific sports & exercise activities •Has become a part of many people's everyday wardrobes - •Athleisure is the category of active apparel also used for everyday wear •Yoga pants, leggings, hoodies, tanks •High-tech performance textiles are prevalent in this category •Moisture management •Temperature control •Sun / UV protection •Successful athletic apparel companies balance the performance with fashion & lifestyle

omnichannel retailing

•retailers have a fully-integrated approach that provides shoppers a unified experience across online and offline channels •Ability to easily move inventory from one channel to another •Consistent messaging across all channels •For example •Can look up store inventory online •Can order online and pick-up or return in store •Homepage of the website & social media posts are promoting the same merchandise as store windows

retailing

•the business activities involved in selling goods and services to consumers for their personal, family, or household use. •It includes every sale to the final consumer. •It is the last stage in the distribution process from supplier to consumer. • •Fashion retailing involves the business of buying and selling apparel, accessories, and home fashions

different types of merchandise and store formats continued

••Off-Price Stores •Brand name items sold at low prices •Other retailers' cancelled orders, overruns, end of season clearance, irregulars, private label •Examples: •Ross Stores, Marshall's, TJ Maxx, Home Goods, Burlington, Century 21, Saks Off Fifth, Neiman Marcus Last Call Specialty Stores •Concentrates on selling one type of merchandise •Clothing •Furniture •Shoes •Jewelry •Can even focus on a subcategory •Athletic shoes •Bridal •Maternity wear •Children's wear •Can offer related limited lines •Women's apparel & accessories •Cards & gifts •Store size varies depending on how large the offering •Examples •Gap, Crate and Barrel, Justice, Athleta, Levi's, Banana Republic, Talbots, Brooks Brothers, Chico's, American Eagle, Abercrombie & Fitch, Forever 21, Uniqlo, Zara, Victoria's Secret •Boutique •Carries exclusive and unique merchandise often at higher prices •Designer boutiques •Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Gucci, Prada, Chanel, Hermes, Fendi •Multi-vendor boutiques •Hirschleifers, Opening Ceremony, Dover Street Market •Category Killer •Especially large specialty store •Often called Big Box Retailers •Features enormous selection in its category and relatively low prices •Examples: •Best Buy •Home Depot •Petco •Staples •Bed, Bath & Beyond •Sephora •Party City •Michaels •Factory Outlet •Manufacturer owned •Close-outs, discontinued merchandise irregulars, cancelled orders •Exclusive NEW collections •cheaper fabric & simpler design than in full price stores •Often found in outlet malls such as Woodbury Common •Examples •Polo Factory Store, Gap Factory, Loft Outlet, Michael Kors Outlet, Movado Company Store