HISTORY OF COSTUME 2

When the song "Yankee Doodle Dandy" used the term "macaroni" it was making reference to:

American attempts to be fashionable

What were ribbons used to decorate the fronts of bodices called?

Eschelles

What was NOT an element of men's costume during the 16th century in Northern Europe?

Farthingales

What were the two centers of fashion from 1425-1485?

Flanders (belgium and holland) Florence

What was worn instead of a coat in informal situations, inspired by the English country look, and an accepted option to a coat?

Frock Coat

Who were the lacemakers? Where did they work?

Girls as young as 5 worked in damp basements with poor lighting

What is a pointed cone hat called?

Hennin

What is the cross motif called?

Heraldic emblems

If a young Englishman of the 18th century referred to his uncle as "square toes," he would mean that:

His uncle was old fashioned

What are cut on the bias and attached to a belt or waistband?

Hosa

What is a huge robe called?

Houpplande

The lower prices and increases in availability of cotton fabrics in the 1800s were a result of:

Improvements in the technology for spinning cotton yarns

When/Where were the widest paniers worn?

In court in england in 1740s

What was part of the milkmaid style/ a la polonaise?

It was puffed up in back, with loops and strings underneath

What description most accurately reflects the overall character of women's clothing during the Italian Renaissance of the 15th century?

Lavish use of opulent fabrics gave garments of relatively straight cut a splendid appearance and rich decorative effects were achieved by carefully manipulating layers of garments

What is a sleeved bodice with overskirt attached, with the fabric pulled to the back like curtains, and was typical of late baroque period?

Manteau/Mantua

What two groups made up the middle class?

Merchants and craftsmen

What material were robe en chemise made out of?

Muslin usually white

What are "Baskets" tied around the waist to make skirts stick out at hips are called?

Paniers

What is a cape with slits for arms?

Pelisse

What is an undergarment today, but was a visible part of outer garments in the 16th century?

Petticoats

A perfumed ointment made of apples or wheat paste worn on the hair was

Pomade

What originated as military dress, had padded front, was attached to hose with strings, and was made either with or without sleeves?

Pourpoint

What is another name for the Puritan collar?

Rabat

What were 4 reasons florence and flanders centers of fashion?

Trade mercantilism money power

How were married and older women distinguished from unmarried younger women in the Middle Ages?

Unmarried women wore their hair loose and uncovered

Who was a female beauty ideal? How was she represented?

Virgin Mary -plucked hairline -silhouette stresses upper torso in a pregnant stance

Pumpkin Breeches and other full, rounded costume elements were stuffed with what?

bombast

T/F For the entire 18th century, children were dressed as miniature adults. There was no difference between adult and children's styles.

false

T/F Venetian nobles who wore wide sleeves were less important than those who wore narrow sleeves.

false

T/F the flea cravat was worn to keep fleas off one's body

false

What gets wider as it gets to the knee and sometimes foldover spurs?

funnel boots

"A la Hedgehog" was a type of

hairstyle

In Early Western Europe, we identify women by the _____ and men by the _______.

headwear legwear

What were three new ideas that came from early western europe?

knowledge monasteries illuminated manuscripts

T/F Byzantine styles influenced European styles

true

T/F Clothing for men and women was generally made by male professional tailors until after the 1700s, at which time women "tailors" or professional dressmakers were able to make clothing for women but not for men.

true

T/F During the 14th century what had been called a cote in women's dress was called a gown.

true

T/F During the Rococo period pastel colors were popular especially for women

true

T/F English country dress featured lighter colors and was made of cotton

true

T/F Fashion was especially important at the court of Louis XIV of France because the king wanted to keep his courtiers occupied with fashion and etiquette so that they would have neither the time nor the money to plot against him.

true

T/F Intermarriage among members of royal families from different parts of Europe helped to spread fashions from one region to another.

true

T/F It was in the textile industry that the first effects of the Industrial Revolution were felt.

true

T/F The Byzantine Empire was the first "Western" society to learn the secret of sericulture.

true

T/F The costume of students of the Middle Ages served as the basis for modern academic gowns.

true

T/F The widest and most extreme paniers were worn for Court Dress in England.

true

T/F Until they reached the age of four or five, boys of the 15th century were dressed the same way as girls.

true

T/F a woman's hair in court could go up to 3' tall

true

T/F fashion was centered in paris from early baroque to contemporary times

true

T/F sheer cotton from india became a symbol of luxury to rococo women

true

T/F the costume of the Byzantine Empire combined elements of costume from Asia with Roman dress

true

T/F the elimination of the doublet in men's fashion marks the beginning of modern dress

true

T/F the length of very pointed shoes, known as poulaine or krackowe were regulated by sumptuary law

true

T/F the view of ideal beauty changed from male to female

true

What were three garments that were worn during the reign of Queen Elizabeth?

-Dresses with enormous skirts worn over a wheel-shaped device -Sheer, gauze-like veils worn cape-like over the shoulders, with a high, standing collar behind the head -A silhouette that had narrowed at the shoulders, and increased in width in the hip area, often worn with a ruff at the neck and high-heeled shoes

What were the two wide garments worn by men at the court of Louis XIV that looked like skirts called?

-Petticoat breeches -Rhinegraves

What were three names for Long pointed shoes that developed in the 12th century?

-Poulaines -Krakowes -Pulley-toes

What are three ways a man of modest means in the 18th century acquire his clothing?

-Purchase used clothing -Join a "breeches club" -Save enough money over a period of several years

What are three differences between the dress of Italians and inhabitants of Northern Europe during the first half of the 15th century?

-Shoes in Italy were not as long and pointed as in Northern Europe -Women in Italy covered their hair less completely -Men did not adopt the "bowl crop"

Three examples of Asian and Middle Eastern influences on styles in costume during the 18th century would include:

-Some of the prints and designs in textiles -Men's dressing gown styles -Mantua-style gowns for women

The political preferences of the two factions in the English Civil War of the 1600s were reflected in their dress, the differences being:

-The followers of Charles I dressed in elaborate fabrics, lavishly trimmed in lace, wore long, curling hair, and hats with large brims and feather trim -the followers of Oliver Cromwell wore simple unadorned clothing in somber colors

Where are two places that influence of Italian trade with the East during the Renaissance can be seen?

-The popularity of turban-like headdresses for Italian women -The designs in some woven Italian textiles

Where were THREE places starch was used?

-ancient egypt -maintain shapes on collars and ruffs -in europe beginning in the renaissance

Trade with China and India resulted in the popularity of what three things?

-banyans -pastel colors -floral motifs

What are three facts about lace?

-free form luxury fabric -indication of wealth -english and french would smuggle it in from belgium

What influences came from India?

-painted/printed textiles -banyan -indiennes

What three items were apart of the modern man look?

-plainer fabric -closer fitting coat and shorter waistcoat -breeches

What was the fashion for slashing and puffing inspired by?

1477 swiss victory over burgundy

When/Where were the earliest fashion illustrations printed?

1580 during the Italian renaissance

When did the fashion for puffed and slashed decoration of costume of men and women enter Italian Renaissance costume?

16th century

If an artist of the 15th century depicted a woman in a close-fitting gown, and over this a sideless surcote with a stiffened panel in the front that was decorated with a row of brooches, a contemporary viewer would know at once that this woman was:

A French queen or princess

A greater availability of fabric during the Industrial Revolution led to:

An acceleration of fashion change

What was worn by noble women, had a fitted torso and puddled hem, and showed a woman's family wealth?

Bliaut

What are worn with funnel boots and folded over to show lace?

Boot Hose

What are the two groups that fought the english civil war? What did they fight over?

Cavaliers- (royalists) Roundheads (Puritans) split in ideology and in fashion

What were platform shoes worn by Venetian courtesans called?

Chopines

What was the biggest influence on costume in Europe?

Crusades start culture contact

What was popular before lace? Why did this change?

Cutwork it was limited to geometric designs while lace is more freeform

What two garments would have been working class clothing during the 18th century?

Short gowns Smocks

What is a sleeveless jumper called?

Sideless gown

What is a black ribbon tied around the neck called?

Solitaire

In the Baroque period, the ______ clung to old styles, like the Farthingale

Spanish

What style influenced renaissance fashion?

Spanish

What were large rectangular embroidered patches with biblical themes called?

Tablion

What were four examples of embroidery?

Whitework black work red work cut work

What watteau gown had stitched down pleats?

a la anglaise

What watteau gown had open pleats?

a la francaise

What were three under garments worn by rococo women?

chemise, corset, paniers

When bias cut leg pieces were merged into one garment (tights) a pouch was added, called the:

codpiece

What is the forerunner of the Robe en Chemise, that was made of sheer cotton

empire dresses

What were sleeves on 18th century gowns ended below the elbow with one or more ruffles called?

engageants

T/F Cotton was the fabric most used by poor people during the Middle Ages.

false

In this type of lace, threads are wrapped and bundled with the buttonhole stitch

needle lace

What is a triangular shaped bodice piece that was seen onto the front off the garment?

stomacher

What is a baldrick?

sword belt

Where did the slashed decorations with contrasting fabric linings underneath originate?

the swiss army