Milady Chapter 20 vocab

hydrogen bonds

Weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; they are easily broken by water (wet setting) or heat (thermal styling), and they re-form as the hair dries or cools.

weave technique

Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas.

chemical hair relaxing

A process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form. M: from curly hair to straight hair.

soft curl permanent

A thio based chemical service that reformats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves. M: changes the texture of the hair

permanent waving

A two-step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods; the hair undergoes a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer.

ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)

Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.

loop rod

Also known as circle rod; tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. M: perm rods

alkaline waves

Also known as cold waves; they have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition of heat.

peptide bonds

Also known as end bonds; chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end-to-end in long chains, to form polypeptide chains.

end papers

Also known as end wraps; absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods. M: papers used to control ends of hair when perming.

double-rod wrap

Also known as piggyback wrap; a wrap technique whereby extra-long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction. M: Piggyback perm

base cream

Also known as protective base cream; oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing.

basic permanent wrap

Also known as straight set wrap; perm wrapping in which all the rods within panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases; all the base sections are horizontal, and are the same length and width as the perm rod. M: straight back perm wrap.

hydroxide neutralization

An acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp; hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds.

base direction

Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally vertically or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.

off-base placement

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45-degrees below the center of the base section, so the rod is positioned completely off its base.

on-base placement

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base.

half off-base placement

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base section. M: rod is not fully on base

amino acids

Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen , nitrogen, and sulfur.

normalizing lotions

Conditioners with an acidic pH that restore the hair's natural pH before the final neutralizing shampooing. M: restores pH to the hair

exothermic waves

Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing. M: heat reactant perm solution

side bonds

Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together.

spiral perm wrap

Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, similar to the stripes on a candy canes. M: instead of a S wave it gives you a spiral curl

chemical texture services

Hair service that cause a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair M: from current hair texture to new texture

true acid waves

Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process; they process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves.

metal hydroxide relaxers

Ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) which is combined with oxygen and hydrogen. M: reacts to a metal

polypeptide chains

Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds.

keratin proteins

Long, coiled polypeptide chains.

glyceryl monothioglycolate

Main active ingredient in true acid-balanced waving lotions.

endothermic waves

Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer. M: not a heat reactant perm solution

straight rods

Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area. M: not convex

concave rods

Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.

thio-free waves

Perm that uses an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine.

bookend wrap

Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope. M: fold end paper over hair

double flat wrap

Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped. M: 2 end papers

bricklay permanent wrap

Perm wrap similar to actual technique by bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair. M: brick wall

single flat wrap

Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped.

curvature permanent wrap

Perm wraps in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head.

acid-balanced waves

Permanent waves that have 7.0 or neutral pH; because of their higher pH, the process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.

croquignole perm wrap

Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers. M: from tip of shaft to end of shaft wraped

ammonia-free waves

Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is a very little odor is associated with their use.

low-pH waves

Perms that use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate. M: creates loose permed waves

base control

Position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.

lanthionization

Process by which hydrogen relaxers permanently straighten hair; they remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond. M: hair relaxed permanently

base placement

Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.

no-base relaxers

Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream.

base relaxers

Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer.

thio neutralization

Stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form.

disulfide bonds

Strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together.

base sections

Subsections of panels into which the hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section.

viscosity

The measurement of thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows.

thioglycolic acid

The most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions. M: also known as perm solution

soft bender rods

Tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. M: rods that require no elastic

thio relaxers

Use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10).

hydroxide relaxers

Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13; the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers.