Product Development Quiz 8

Computerized Water jet cutting machine

A computer driven cutting machine that utilizes a high-intensity water jet stream to pierce through the multiple layers of fabric at a high rate of speed that does not wet the fabric plies.

Computerized Laser Cutting Machine

A computer-driven cutting machine that utilizes a laser beam to bur or dissolve the fabric along the cutting lines of the marker and through the multiple layers of fabric without fusing the layers together.

Computerized Vertical Reciprocating Blade Cutting Machine

A computer-driven cutting machine that utilizes a vertical reciprocating blade to shear through the multiple layers of fabric.

Cut, Make, Trim

A contractor that completes all aspects of production to manufacture the garment. This type of contractor receives uncut, raw materials and produces the product by cutting, sewing, and finishing.

Clamp

A gripping device consisting of two opposing metal arms joined at a central pivot point to form handles and bills.

Marker

A layout of pattern pieces and the guide for cutting the garment fabric for production.

Cut-off Machine

A magnetically guided electric cutter designed with a long handle and equipped with a circular blade that operates in a grooved cross-table track.

Manual Spreader

A manually operated spreading machine with a rail that permits the operator to maintain alignment of the fabric edges while laying multiple plies of the fabric on the cutting table. This type of spreader can lay face to face or one-way.

Plotted

A paper copy of a digital marker is needed for cutting, it is sent to a printer to be plotted on a continuous roll having the same width dimensions as the fabric to be cut and is the length of the marker.

Straight Knife Cutter

A portable electric cutter designed to hold a vertical knife blade, which operates with an up-and-down cutting motion or stroke, with a base plate that rides on the cutting table to prevent it from tipping or swaying while an operator is cutting.

Drill

A portable electrically driven metal rod operating with a vertical drilling motion, housed in a farm and base, with a control switch and handle.

Modular Production System (Modular Manufacturing)

A production method in which teams of individuals work together to complete the assembly of a garment. Team members are cross-trained to complete several operations within the group. Team members are cross-trained to complete several operations within the group.

Unit production system

A production method similar to the progressive bundle system; however, the garment component parts for one single garment are contained in a bundle and moved from one work station to the next by transporters or converters that are connected to overhead power rail system.

Progressive Bundle System

A production method where garment component parts are bundled according to the sequential order of garment assembly.

Block Fusing

A relatively small square or rectangular portion of the fabric is fused with an interlining

Bundle

A stack of cut garment sections that have been separated from the layup, and folded or tied. Bundles are sorted and grouped according to pattern size and shade marking.

Cutting Table

A stationary flat work area at waist height, with a width and length designed according to the plant layout, fabric, spreading machine, or cutting procedures.

Clicker Press

A stationary single or double-arm electric or hydraulic press that houses steel cutting dies made to the exact dimensions of a garment section.

Cloth Measuring and Inspection Machine

A stationary, motor-driven unit containing a means for supporting a bolt of fabric and a mandrel for rerolling the fabric after it has passed over an inspection board.

Manual Cloth Notcher

A straight blade fixed to a spring action recoil piston and affixed to a base.

Electrical Cloth Notcher

A strip-resistant wire blade connected to a heating unit that is housed in a frame with a control switch and handle.

Inside Shop

A traditional manufacturer that designs and produces apparel in their own factories

End Catcher or End Guide Rail

A weighted crossbar hinged to a clamp secured base that spans the cutting table. The catcher or end rail can be placed and locked at any position on the spreading table.

Center-aligned spread

Aligns the vertical midpoints of each ply, which creates a layup having both sides that are equidistant rom the lengthwise midpoint of the

Garment Bundle

All of the garment component parts for one single garment are contained in a bundle and move from one work station to the next.

Traditional Manufacturer

An apparel or textile production facility or factory, owned and operated by one company that completes all aspects of apparel design and assembly in-house.

One-Way Spreader

An automated spreading machine riding on a geared rail synchronized to work with an end guide rail and cut-off machine at either end of the layup.

Face-to Face Spreader

An automated spreading machine that lays and aligns a ply of fabric with each pass over the cutting table.

Tubular Knit Spreader

An automated spreading machine with an adjustable electromagnet to hold assorted widths of tubular fabrics in place.

Standup Rotary Cutter

An electric cutter designed to hold a circular blade.

Contractor

An independent business hired to provide production services to manufacture entire garments, product lines, or partially complete component parts.

Full Package Supplier

An independent contractor capable of completing all aspects of design, fabric, ad materials purchasing, pattern making, cutting, assembly, packaging, and distribution of apparel products.

Specialty Contractor (Subcontractor)

An independent contractor hired by a manufacturer to complete a portion of the production of a garment that requires special skills and equipment not provided by other contractors.

Outside Shop

An independent contractor hired by a manufacturer to outsource one or more aspects of garment production. Include cut, make, trim (CMT); jobbers; and specialty contractors.

Jobber

An independent contractor hired by a manufacturer to outsource the production of entire garments or partially complete component parts. They purchase raw materials and either send them directly to CMT contractors for production or send cut garment components to contractors for production.

Pull through

Based on the needs and wants of the consumer

Job bundle

Component parts are bundled according to two or more consecutive assembly operations. As the various garment components are assembled, they are passed through work stations where their pieces are added to the rest of the garment until it is completed.

Notching

Cutting an incision through all fabric plies to a depth of 3/16 of an inch on the perimeter of a pattern piece.

Retail manufacturer

Develops private-label goods that contractors produce for distribution and sale in their retail stores, catalogues, or online.

Bundle coupons

Factory workers are typically compensated according to how many pieces they complete within a given shift. This payment method is called piece rate.

Bundle

Garment component parts grouped together for routing that include pieces for completing a particular operation or portion of a garment. Manually moved from one workstation to the next.

Tubular spread

Garments are cut from tubes of fabric

Directional fabrics

Goods with particular weaves, patterns, or finishes.

Diagonal Design Fabric

In a marker layout, all pattern pieces are placed in the same direction on fabrics printed with stripes, geometric pattern, or a motif pattern that forms diagonal lines from selvage to selvage.

Diagonal Weave Fabric or Twill type fabric marker layout

In a marker layout, all pattern pieces are placed in the same direction on fabrics printed with stripes, geometric pattern, or a motif pattern that forms diagonal lines from selvage to selvage.

Fabric Spread

Indicates how the material will be laid into multiple plies for cutting.

Buffer

Invisible barrier, which can protect all or specific pieces form being placed too close to another run the layout.

Unbalanced plaid

Marker layouts are planned in a one-way direction. Contain colored groups of yarns that create unsymmetrical geometric designs which vary in the lengthwise, crosswise or both directions of the fabric.

Bundle tickets

Master lists of operations for the bundle, bundle coupons, or identification cards for each assembly operation, routing information, piece rate, and identification regarding the style number, size, and shade number.

Slack spread

Material possesses ripples or ridges in the layup that are caused by spreading the fabric too loosely in the lengthwise direction between the ends.

Plies

Multiple layers of fabric spread out for the purpose of cutting many garments and their corresponding component parts at the same time.

Directional Design Fabric

One-way designs require all pattern pieced to be placed in the same direction in the market layout

Uneven Stripe

One-way marker layout is required to continue stripes in consecutive order at a seam line. A stripe design in which lines of mixed width and color are repeated consecutively, forming a one-way directional design.

Uneven plaid marker layout

Pattern pieces are arranged in the marker layout in a one-way direction in order to match the plaid at the seams.

Balanced Stripe Marker layout

Pattern pieces are arranged in the marker layout so the geometric designs correspond or produce a chevron at the seam line.

Even stripe marker layout

Pattern pieces are arranged in the marker layout so the geometric designs correspond or produce a chevron.

Balanced Plaid

Pattern pieces are arranged in the marker layout so the geometric pattern design matches or produces chevrons at seam lines.

Diagonal Weave Fabric

Pattern pieces are arranged on the marker in a one-way direction with the grain line parallel to the selvage of a twill weave to avoid color tone differences caused by light refraction.

Light-Reflecting Fabric marker layout

Pattern pieces are arranged on the marker in a one-way direction with the grain line parallel to the selvage to avoid color tone differences caused by light refraction.

Napped Fabric marker layout

Pattern pieces are arranged on the marker in a one-way direction with the grain line parallel to the selvage to avoid color tone differences caused by light refraction.

Pile Fabric Marker Layout

Pattern pieces are arranged on the marker in a one-way direction with the grain line parallel to the selvage to avoid color tone differences caused by light refraction.

Knit Fabric Marker layout

Pattern pieces are arranged on the marker in a one-way direction with the grainline

Border fabric design marker layout

Pattern pieces are arranged on the marker on either the length or cross grain direction of a border print to use or emphasize the border design on the garment.

Finished border fabric marker layout

Pattern pieces are arranged on the marker on either the length or cross grain direction of a finished border fabric to utilize the border design on the garment.

Straight-edge-aligned spread

Precisely aligns the selvages of the plies on one side of the layup to form a straight edge.

Blocking

Protects pattern pieces and accommodates the width of the knife blade to prevent unintentional cutting.

Long-term Production

Quantities manufactured base on anticipated demand or projected sales for an item

Short-term Production

Quantities manufactured based on consumer demand for an item

Fast Fashion, Speed to Market, or Quick Response

Reducing the time needed to process goods through the supply chain, from the mill to manufacturer to retailer to the consumer. Response times are reduced by increased efficiency of design communication, manufacturing, and distribution of goods.

Work flow

Refers to the specific movement of garment component pieces and materials during the production process from the beginning to the end.

Off-loaded

Removed (garment parts)

Full-Package Manufacturing

Services provided by contractors to furnish materials, as well as cutting and assembly apparel products for designers, product developers, and retail manufacturers.

Smart cards or electronic bundle tickets

Sewing operations swipe cards through a card reader that is connected to a computer system to electronically monitor the work they complete.

Animal Skin Marker Layout

Skins are considered napped fabrics and require a one-way marker layout on a single spread.

Flexible Manufacturing

The ability to manufacture small quantities of an assortment of product styles within a short period.

Layout of pattern pieces or marker layout

The arrangement of interlocking pattern pieces on paper or virtually on a computer, in preparation for cutting.

Production System

The combination of resources and work flow sequencing needed to manufacture finished, salable garments.

Cutting Line

The designated lines on a marker indicating the edges of pattern pieces that are used as guides for cutting.

Materials handling

The efficient flow of materials and garment components as they progress through the manufacturing process.

Roll-to-Roll Fusing

The entire length of the fabric roll is fused with interlining. The fabric roll is loaded and fed through a fusing press and is rewound onto the roll and is ready for spreading and cutting.

Face-to-face spread

The fabric is laid out like an accordion.

Fabric fallout

The material remaining on the cutting table after garment parts are off-loaded.

Factory Layout

The physical arrangement of space within a manufacturing plant, which contains areas for production, administration, raw materials storage, and employee service.

Shade Marking

The process of ensuring proper shade match by marking each pattern piece, within every ply of the spread.

Spreading Fabric

The process of superimposing a predetermined number of fabric plies on the cutting table either manually or by means of a fabric spreading machine.

Fusing

The process of using prescriptive guidelines for application of temperature, time and pressure in order to properly achieve a secure bond between the fusible interlining and the shell fabric.

Factory capacity

The prospective volume of goods a manufacturing plant is able to produce at a particular quality level, within a specific time period.

Work in process or Work in progress

The quantity of incomplete products in the course of assembly.

Product Layout (Line Layout)

The spatial arrangement of manufacturing equipment according to the sequential order of garment assembly, not a specific garment style. Product layouts, also known as assembly lines, are efficient for manufacturing large volumes of identical merchandise.

Process Layout (Skill Center Layout)

The spatial arrangement of manufacturing equipment that is grouped and placed into work areas according to the operations needed to produce a specific garment style.

Production Standard

The specific time required to manufacture a particular product style

Standard Allowed Minutes

The time in minutes and seconds required for a worker to finish one operation with a specific machine and technique.

Layup

The total number of fabric piles, one over the other, in a one-way or face-to-face spread, for cutting multiple garment components when many garments must be cut simultaneously for mass production.

Available Factory Capacity

The total number of hours available for scheduling the production of goods, within a specific time frame

Committed Factory Capacity

The total number of hours devoted to the production of products that have already been scheduled for manufacturing during a specific time frame.

Demonstrated Factory Capacity

The total quantity of component parts or finished products a machine or manufacturing plant is able to produce at a particular quality level, within a specific time period.

Direct connection and tandem method

Two layouts for overhead power rail systems to connect to sewing operators. Allows for overhead rail to stop at each sewing operator's station, whereas the tandem method connects both single and groups of two or three machines.

Single-ply Spread

When each layer of fabric is laid face up or face down in the spread.

Push through

When manufacturers produce goods based on anticipated consumer demand

Tight spread

When material is stretched as it is laid