Rest arts Ch 11-12
types of poder
cake loose
Treatment to the nose when it is too short
darken sides and lighten the tip
Corrective cosmetizers for Round face shape
lighten the cheeks darken the forehead and jaw line
Corrective cosmetizers for Inverted triangle face shape
lighten the chin and jaw line darken the sides of forehead and temples lighten cheeks slightly
Treatment to the eye when they are close- set (space between them is less than one eye wide)
lighten the inner corner of upper lid darken the outer part of the lid reduce the length of the eyebrows at the medial end
Treatment when cheeks are too prominent
lighten the medial area darken the lateral area
most common types of blushes used in mortuary cosmetology
liquid and cream
Carotene
the yellow pigment of the skin
warm color areas of the skin
those areas of skin surface that during life are naturally reddened. cosmetics will be applied to these areas to restore the wormth that red coloring gives
Transparent
-having the property of transmitting rays of light through its substance so that a body situated beyond or behind it can be distinctly seen - can be liq, cream, or powd
Setting compound of cosmetic brush
-how the hair is attached to the end of the brush in the ferrule -the compound is determined by the type of hair used -better quality brushes the hair is vulcanized in rubber or bakelite compound
Dye in the arterial solution does what
-imparts a pinkish color to the skin -counteracts the gray color that can be caused by the effects of formaldehyde on tissue and blood
Pros of Opaque cream cosmetics
-many help prevent dehydration -choice of thickness (light or heavy) -covers discolorations -covers wax -mixes with wax
pigmented lip cosmetics are ____ commonly used _________ adhere to waxed areas
-most -will
Opaque
-not transparent or translucent -not allowing light to pass through - a concealing cosmetic
steps to cosmetizing waxed lips
-outline the lips in the color selected -fill in lips with the selected color -blend facial cosmetics to the lips -apply powder to face and lips
sources of Hair for cosmetic brushes
-red sable (red tartar marten) = finest quality -Black sable (wood or stone marten and Civit-cat) -Ox -Camel (not realy camel-its a term for any brush that has soft silky fine har - Fitch- skunk -Badger -Goat -Bristle-hogs and boars -Synthetic
3 main reasons for use of cosmetics
-restore the deceased to normal life like appearance -mask signs of trauma or injury -to create an even skin tone due to loss of color through embalming
steps to cosmetizing the face
-select concealer foundation and apply -a darker color is selected for around the eyes where it is naturally darker. apply to eye area - chose blush and apply to cheeks, chin, lower 2/3s of face, lower portion of forehead, nose, ears -apply lip color -darker brown is applied to the nasolabial sulcus and wrinkles on forehead and between eyes -darker brown is selected and applied to neck which is naturally darker -apply powder to face and remove excess -restore color to eyebrow as needed
steps to waxing lips
-soften lip wax in hand -apply a thin coat of wax to the lip using a spatula -reproduce lines of the lips with a pointed instrument -even out the waxed surface with a brush and solvent
Differences in skin color result from differences in ______, this is controlled _______. more melanin=_____
-the amont of melanin -genetics - darker skin
on African Americans _____ cosmetics should be used to avoid covering _____ and _______
-translucent -freckles and birthmarks (if opaque must be used recreat these)
Freckles
-uneven concentrations of melanin appearing as a dark spot, usually on the face. - not considered a discoloration that needs covering
examples of Pigmentary discolorations
-yellow to green color of jaundice -bronze color of Addisons disease -green color due to decamp -gray color caused by the formaldehyde on blood -purple-postmortem stain/contusions/hospital markings -yellow/brown caused by dehydration
Variations of complexion colors that occur within each ethnic as well as each racial classification are
-yellowish -brownish -reddish
Foundation
a complexion cosmetic that acts as a base for additional colored cosmetics. conceals imperfections and may act as a moisturizer, may add color
Liquid cosmetics
a fluid colorant in which pigments are dissolved or suspended
Albinism
a heredity absence of pigment in the skin, hair, and eyes
light complexions look best with a blush composed of
a muted pink with a small amount of beige coloring
blush on an older child should be placed on
a point halfway between the center of the eye and the end of the line of closure
Cream cosmetics
a semi-solid consistency
Powder cosmetics
a solid substance in the state of fine loose particles, produced by crushing or grinding
medium color skin needs a blush composed of
a warmer ping with a brownish tint
colored powder can
add additional color or be used to reduce a color
4 basic factors that affect the normal complexion of each individual
age-color becomes duller and grayer and texture becomes coarser as one ages climate -(more or less sun changes melanin concentrations) health- redness of complexion is affeted by quantity of blod in superficial capillaries genetics- complexion is determined in part by the genes we are born with
eyebrows usually grow in what pattern
angled upward and outward towards the distal edge of the brow -young=follows the line of the supraorbital margin -old= hairs will angle downward more toward the eyes
powder
any solid substance in the state of fine loose particles as produced by crushing or grinding
Complexion
applies to the color and the texture of the skin
applying eye shadow
apply from inner part of eye to outside blending up and outward
The internal method for restoring color uses
arterial injection solution that contains a dye
blush on an elderly adult should be placed on
below the frontal cheekbone. it should be faint and barely bisible
when an area of the face is lightened or highlighted it appears to be
brought forward and emphasized
Warm color areas of the face
cheeks chin ears mucous membranes of the lips *on males the forehead
-corrective cosmetizing can bring the appearance of the shape of the face ________
closer to the oval shape that is considered to be the ideal face shape
dark skin looks best with a blush composed of
colors like cinnamon nutmeg or reddish brown
an electric spray cosmetic system includes
compressor hose handheld spray applicator liquid spray cosmetics
lips will appear more natural if one avoids a
constant color across the surface-apply small spots of light brown randomly on the lip surface then stippling lightly
basic steps to applying lip color
cover lips wit a foundation cosmetic outline and define lips with pencil or brush brush on lip color apply lip gloss or drying powder
Melanin is the
dark pigment found in hair and skin
Corrective cosmetizers for Oblong face shape
darken the chin and top of forehead lighten cheeks slightly
Treatment to the eyes are wide-set
darken the inner part of the upper lid
Corrective cosmetizers for Square face shape
darken the sides of the forehead and chin lighten the cheekbones
Treatment to the nose when it is too long
darken the tip and wing
Treatment when the chin is too prominent
darken tip
Olive and yellow complexions require a blush composed of
deeper brown based shades with red or plum
Guide for placement of blush
do not bring blush lower than the base of the nose or too near the nose. place the index and third fingers alongside the nose
cosmetics when applied correctly should
enhance a persons appearance
7 basic types of cosmetics
foundation blush/rouge lip color mascara eye shadow eyeliner eyebrow pencil
Methods for applying external cosmetics
gloved hand brush sponge puff/pad spray
hair should be washed and conditioned except when
hair has been twisted or dreadlocked
when an area of the face is darkened or shadowed
it appears to recede
warm color areas of the hands
knuckles fingernails cuticles
Corrective cosmetizers for Diamond face shape
lighten sides of forehead temples and jaw line darken cheeks
Treatment to the nose when it is too Wide
lighten the bridge darken the sides
Treatment when the forehead is too wide
lighten the middle darken sides
Treatment to the nose when it is too thin
lighten the sides and darken the bridge
Corrective cosmetizers for Triangle face shape
lighten the sides of the forehead darken the sides of jawline
Treatment when the chin is not prominent enough
lighten tip
Treatment when there is a double chin
lighten tip of chin darken the tissue making the extra chin
types of foundation
liquid cake powder cream in a jar cram in a stick
types of lip cosmetics
liquid cream pigmented (with oil,paraffin, and mineral spirit vehicles)
Melanocytes are cells that produce
melanin
Regardless of racial origin all people have about the same number of _______
melanocytes
Ferrule
metal part of a cosmetic brush in which the hair is fastened on to the end of the handle. the size of the ferrule determines the shape and the design of the brush
the eyebrows are considered
one of the most expressive features of the face. the slightest change in contour or placement will affect the entire facial appearance
steps using a eyebrow pencil to lengthen eyebrow
start at medial end short strokes following the natural direction of growth. slightly up and out to about the middle of the brow. at this point the hair grows in a downward direction
to determine where the brows should start and finish
take a straight edge of some sort and place it next to the wing of the nose in a straight vertical line. follow it up past the inner corner of the eye to the eyebrow. where it meets the eyebrow is where they should start. take the straight edge and keep it at the wing of the nose. place it diagonally past the lateral end of the eye up to the brow. at the point where it meets the eyebrow is where they should end
The location of blush on the cheek depends on
the age of the deceased
The external method for restoring color uses
the application of cosmetics to skin
Blood discolorations that changes complexion
the escape of blood into the intercellular spaces due to trauma or hypostasis
blush on a young child should be placed on
the front plane of the cheek below the center of the eye
we should try to recreate a natural appearance by using
the least amount of cosmetics as is necessary
Hemoglobin
the pigment that gives the blood color
disadvantage of dye in arterial solution
the pink coloring in the skin can be blotchy due to uneven distribution of the solution in the tissue
blush on a young to middle aged adult should be placed on
the point below the end of the line of eye closure
white powder will
tone down the look of the cosmetics
liquid and cream lip colors are_______ and ____adhere to waxed areas
translucent will not
blush to the adult cheek should be placed
use a little at a time. blend upward and outward until it softly fades into the foundation
blush to the forehead should be placed
very lit pat to the two frontal eminences blended up toward the hairline and out from frontal eminences
blush to the ear should be placed
very small amount to top of ear and blend down the helix and anti helix to the tragus, small amount to tragus
color of complexion varies as a result of the differences in the
pigment within and under the epidermis and the dermis
purchasing a cosmetic brush should be based on 5 things
purpose of operation style of ferrule setting compound design of handle sources of hair
the purpose of restorative art is to
recreate the natural form and color on the visible parts of a body
color of the mucous membrane of the lip is composed of _____ complexion pigments
red melanin/brown carotene/yellow
through the correct application of makeup the shape of the face can be______
redefined by making it appear longer shorter wider or narrower.
its best to cosmetize under what lighting
same lights in which the deceased will be viewed
cream, powder ,and liquid cosmetics are classified by they ability to _______.
see through the substance
blush on the chin should be placed
small amount on the center of the chin and blend it up and out until it is only barely visible
types of brushes
spreading stippiling powder dusting and Tamping Tinting Blending, lining highlighting
Unusual deviations from ones normal complexion may occur due to 3 things :
- Blood discolorations - Pigmentary discolorations Changes in skin moisture content
colors of powder
white tinted-yellow pink brown black
blood affects the color of the skin. Bright red oxygenated blood gives the skin a _____ look. darker non-oxygenated blood can make the skin appear ____
- pink -blue
Cons of transparent liquids cosmetics
--limited color choice -doesn't cover discolorations -dehydrating if alcohol based -doe not cover wax well -can collect in deep pores and appear darker than the rest of the skin
in lighter skin the clusters of pigment granules occur in clusters of _ to__ The granules in very dark skin are ___ and ___
-2-4 - single and large
Translucent
-A somewhat transparent - transmitting light but not causing sufficient diffusion to eliminate perception of distinct images - can be liq, cream, or powd
in most cases if the lip color does not look natural it is because there is too little ____ and are too ____ or ___
-Brown -red or purple
The 2 methods for restoring color in a deceased person
-Internal method -External method
potential problem areas when cosmetizing African Americans
-Nares - become bleached during embalming -nose and buccal cheeks- may bleach during embalming -Hands -Integumentary lips-may bleach and wide variety of natural colors( may need brown/red lip color)
Postmortem cosmetology accomplishes recreation of the natural form and color by:
-Replacing color in the skin lost through the settling of blood and loss during embalming -Counteracting color changes in the skin caused by the graying effect of formaldehyde on blood and tissue -Covering discolorations -Accenting positive facial features -De-emphasizing negatively appearing features -Compensating for artificial funeral home lighting
cosmetics are classified by ones ability to see through them, into what 3 types
-Transparent -Translucent -Opaque
For light skin choose a foundation that is_________. for Darker skin choose a shade that _____
-a shade darker than the deceased skin color - matches the skin color
steps to cosmetizing hands
-base coat of cosmetics -apply rough to knuckles and other warm color areas -a brown cream cosmetic is applied sparingly over the entire hand -apply powder to dry and tone down cosmetics -remove excess
steps to applying spray cosmetics
-be sure skin is clean and dry -if a stain (jaundice etc) is present us a white cosmetic as a base before foundation and blush are applied -starting at forehead move hand back and forth left to right create gental passes of cosmetic spray. work around the face toward the center -spray neck and any area below the neck that will be exposed - clean color from applicator apply foundation and then blush to the warm areas -spray inside and outside of the ear spray cosmetics into the base of the hair line - clean cosmetics from hair line, eyebrow, eyelashes with damp cotton swab - lips and eyebrows can be sprayed using stenciles or freehand -hands can be treated with same procedures -for discolorations make more passes over the area -clean cosmetics from fingernails
Cons of opaque cream cosmetics
-can look pasty -can color hair -clumps -rubs of easily -needs powder application to dry -stains clothing
Treatment to the lips when they are too full
-cover the natural lip line -use brush or pencil draw a new lip line on membrane below natural lip line for upper lip and above the line on lower lip
Treatment to the lips when they are too thin
-cover with foundation -draw a new lip line above the superior mucous membrane and below the inferior mucous membrane - if just one lip is too thin follow for just that lip
4 cosmetic colors needed to reproduce the color and variations of the colors of skin
-dark brown -yellow -red -white
steps for proper case analysis for cosmetics
-determine what problems or conditions need solved -plan of action -results you desire -type of cosmetics you will utilize -method of applications
steps to applying powder
-dip brush into powder -dip on the brush with index finger to remove excess powder use same motion to tap brush over face or hands to sprinkle powder on to skin. - clean remaining powder off brush -gently brush powder over skin -remove excess powder from skin by continuing to brush or dabbing with cotton - dampen a small brush and pass it over the eyelashes from lids to ends of lash to clean of powder -dampen small brush with dry shampoo and clean off eyebrows -cleans of powder brings out natural color and creates a better groomed appearance
the _____ and _____ of pigment granules within the melanocytes influence skin color
-distribution -size
Pros of Transparent liquids
-does not cake or clump on skin or hair -doesn't rub off easily -doesn't give a pasty appearance -dries quickly -easily removed from hair
in mortuary cosmetology powder is usually used to
-dry and set the cosmetics - allows the cosmetics to adhere better to the skin and make it more difficult to rub off
restorative art requires 3 individual process:
-embalming -restoration of features -application of cosmetics
the changes that may become apparent in skin color due to changes in moisture
-from the sallow appearance of emaciation -to light and medium browns as an indication of dehydration, as the loss of skin moisture content continues -to the darker browns- tiypical of desiccation of the tissues
Cosmetics can come in what forms
Creams Powders Liquids
Treatment when cheeks are not prominent enough
Lighten lateral area darken medial area