Textile Fiber Properties

synthetic fibers

A. Background B. Synthesized from simple materials C. Common properties 1. Heat sensitive: softens or melts with sufficient heat; glazing 2. Heat set: stabilize shape and size 3. Resistant to chemicals 4. Hydrophobic: low absorbency 5. Pilling: formation of tiny balls of fiber on fabric 6. Prone to static 7. Oleophilic: affinity for oil and grease

Angora

A. Hair of angora rabbit B. Properties: very fine, fluffy, soft, slippery; white or natural colors; does not dye well C. Uses: apparel; often blended with wool

Rayon

A. History and background -first manufactured fiber -similar to cotton B. Manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose 1. Viscose rayon: includes most bamboo fiber 2. High-performance (HP) rayon: also known as HWM rayon, polynosic rayon, or modal C. Physical structure 1. Viscose rayon: lengthwise striations, indented cross-section 2. HP rayon: rounder cross section and better performance 3. Naturally bright, can be solution dyed D. Properties 1. Aesthetics: luster, length, diameter and other properties modified; fluid drape, soft hand 2. Durability: weak, especially when wet; adequate elongation 3. Comfort: absorbent, smooth and soft, good wicking, low heat retention 4. Appearance retention: poor resiliency, better with HP rayon, especially if treated with wrinkle resistant finish, low dimensional stability and elastic recovery 5. Care: limited washability, may shrink progressively, dry cleaning recommended; greater washability and less wrinkling with HP rayon 6. Environmental effects: similar to other cellulosic fibers E. Uses: apparel, interiors, technical (medical, nonwoven fabrics, disposables)

nylon

A. History and background -first production in the US 1939 by E. I. Dupont de Nemours & Company B. Manufactured fiber made of any long-chain, synthetic polyamide; melt spun C. Physical structure: available in wide variety of cross sections D. Properties 1. Aesthetics: sheer and durable fabrics; poor cover; hand, texture, luster controlled for end use 2. Durability: high strength, good elongation, excellent abrasion resistance 3. Comfort: smooth and silky feel, low density, low absorbency, static prone 4. Appearance retention: excellent resiliency, retains appearance well, excellent elastic recovery; pills readily, crush resistant 5. Care: easy care; color scavenger (picks up color from other textiles and soil), heat sensitive, quick drying, oleophilic, degraded quickly by sunlight 8 6. Environmental effects: resistant to chemicals, insects, and mildew E. Uses: interiors (carpeting and upholstery), apparel, technical (tire cord, car interiors, ropes and cordage, performance apparel, sporting goods)

acrylic

A. History and background -first production in the US 1950 by E. I. Dupont de Nemours & Company -used to replace wool B. Manufactured fiber composed of acrylonitrile C. Physical structure: several cross sections; usually staple length D. Properties 1. Aesthetics: varieties of types; usually textured or crimped 2. Durability: moderate strength, abrasion resistance, and elongation 3. Comfort: less clammy and slick feel compared to other synthetics; low density; low absorbency 4. Appearance retention: good resiliency and elastic recovery; moderate dimensional stability; difficult to heat set; pills readily 5. Care: follow care instructions 6. Environmental effects: resistant to chemicals, insects, and sunlight E. Uses: interiors; apparel; technical (craft yarn, tarps and awnings, luggage, vehicle covers, tents, sandbags) F. Sustainability: chemicals used to produce raw materials, produce and wash fibers, dyes

polyester

A. History and background. -first production in the US 1953 by E. I. Dupont de Nemours & Company -most manufactured fiber in the US B. Long-chain synthetic ester, a simple organic compound C. Physical structure: produced in a variety of cross sections D. Properties 1. Aesthetics: can resemble most natural fibers, many types 2. Durability: excellent strength and abrasion resistance, good elongation 3. Comfort: low density, low absorbency, static prone, soil release finishes improve wicking, performance and stretch polyester types available 4. Appearance retention: excellent elastic recovery, excellent resiliency, does not shrink if properly heat set 5. Care: easy care, quick drying, heat sensitive, heavier than nylon and acrylic, oleophilic 6. Environmental effects: resists most common fiber degradants E. Uses: apparel, interiors, technical (fiberfill, nonwoven fabrics, tire cord, sporting goods, ropes and cordage, filters, geotextiles, medical applications)

acetate

A. History and background: first heat sensitive fiber B. Modification of cellulose C. Physical structure: staple and filament; lobular cross-section, but can be modified D. Properties 1. Aesthetics: cross section, luster, and denier can be controlled for end use 2. Durability: weak, especially when wet, adequate breaking elongation, poor resistance to abrasion 3. Comfort: lower absorbency (6%), static 4. Appearance Retention: poor resiliency, moderate dimensional stability, low elastic recovery low, fume fades 5. Care: dry clean; heat sensitive 6. Environmental effects: resistant to moths, mildew, and bacteria; more sunlight resistant than silk or nylon; less than other cellulosics unless sunlight resistant E. Uses: apparel, interiors, technical

lyocell

A. History and background: manufactured fiber -took 10 years and $10 million to develop B. Manufactured fiber composed of solvent-spun cellulose C. Physical structure: staple and filament; more rounded cross section D. Properties 1. Aesthetics: size, luster, and denier controlled for end use 2. Durability: strong (4.8-5.0 g/d), but 18% weaker when wet; adequate breaking elongation; poor resistance to abrasion (fibrillates) 3. Comfort: good absorbency (11.5%), no static, soft hand 4. Appearance retention: moderate, dimensional stability moderate 5. Care: can be dry cleaned; regular machine wash may unacceptably alter hand and color 6. Environmental effects: resistant to moths, similar in sunlight resistance to rayon and cotton E. Uses: apparel, interiors, technical

glass

A. Manufactured fiber made of glass B. Properties: good strength, but brittle; low elongation, high density; nonabsorbent C. Uses: interiors and technical

metallic fibers

A. Manufactured fiber made of metal, plastic-coated metal, metal-coated plastic, or a core completely covered by metal. B. Types 1. Gold, silver, brass, etc. 2. Aluminum: often coated with plastic film to minimize tarnishing; may be stiff 3. Stainless steel: reduce static; strong, stiff, and heavy 4. Uses: apparel, interiors, and technical

Mohair

A. Produced by the Angora goat B. Properties: very resilient, strong, easy to dye C. Uses: interiors and apparel

Cashmere

A. Produced by the cashmere goat B. Properties: beautiful soft fiber; warm and lightweight, more sensitive to chemicals C. High potential for fraud with other fibers (like wool or yak) labeled cashmere D. Uses: apparel E. Mongolian Fibermark Society: ensures cashmere items meet quality and authenticity standards

azlon

A. Regenerated naturally occuring protein 1. Soya or soy fiber (Soysilk®): from soybean waste; durable, good drape, good comfort; apparel 2. Milk (Silk Latte® or Milkofil®): from milk protein; soft hand, dyeable; apparel

PLA

A. Renewable fiber made from fermented plant starch (polylactic acid) B. Silk-like luster, drape, and hand, low absorbency, good wrinkle resistance, and good flame and ultraviolet light resistance C. Uses: apparel, interiors, technical

Natural Animal Fibers/Natural Protein Fibers

A. Wool and specialty wools (animal source) and silk (insect source) B. Common characteristics: 1. Resilient 2. Hygroscopic 3. Low strength when wet 4. Lower density compared to natural plant fibers 5. Sensitive to alkalis and oxidizing agents 6. Potential for damage by insects 7. Harmed by dry heat 8. Somewhat flame retardant

elastomers

B. Kinds of stretch 1. Power stretch: ability to exhibit a high retractive force that molds, shapes, or supports the body 2. Comfort stretch: ability to elongate slightly as the body moves and to recover a significant portion of that elongation when the force is removed D. Spandex 1. Long-chain synthetic segmented fiber 2. Physical structure: mono or multifilament; various sizes and cross-sections 3. Properties a. Aesthetic: seldom used alone b. Durability: more durable than rubber; better flexibility; similar elongation and elastic recovery; better resistance to body oils, perspiration, chemicals and aging c. Comfort: low absorbency; moderate density d. Care: resists cleaning chemicals; heat sensitive 4. Uses: apparel, technical, interiors F. Elasterell-p: another stretch polyester; good elongation with excellent recovery; easy care; active sportswear, leisure; also known as multelastester G. Lastol: a stretch olefin; superior elongation and recovery; chemically stable; active wear and easy care stretch apparel

olefin

B. Manufactured fiber made of simple organic compounds of carbon and hydrogen C. Physical structure: available in many cross sections D. Properties 1. Aesthetics: can be modified for end use 2. Durability: good strength, elongation, and abrasion resistance 3. Comfort: low absorbency, good wicking, non-static, light weight, waxy hand, performance fibers a. Moisture vapor transport rate (MVRT): measures how quickly moisture vapor moves from the fabric side next to the body to the exterior 4. Appearance retention: excellent resiliency; good dimensional stability 5. Care: unaffected by water borne stains, low melting point, extremely oleophilic 6. Environmental effects: excellent resistant to most chemicals E. Uses: apparel; interiors; technical (carpet backing; cover stock for diapers, laundry and sand bags, wall panel fabrics, envelopes, banners, geotextiles, car interiors, protective clothing, substrates for coated fabrics, ropes and twines)

aramid

C. Properties: exceptional heat and flame resistance and strength; high elongation resistance; resistant to most chemicals; excellent impact and abrasion resistance; absorbency 4.5% D. Uses: technical fiber; protective apparel

Cotton

CONVULSIONS!!! RIBBONS!!! TWISTS!!! A. Background and history B. Important cash crop in more than 80 countries C. Production: natural seed fiber, picked and ginned D. Physical structure 1. Length: staple fiber (1/2 to 2 inches): Upland (medium length), short staple types, long staple types (Pima, Supima, Egyptian, and Sea Island) 2. Convolutions: ribbon-like twists (identifying feature) 3. Fineness: varies with maturity and type 4. Color: creamy white, also naturally colored fibers (brown, rust, red, beige, green E. Grading and classification relates to fiber quality and character F. Properties: 1. Aesthetics: many possibilities based on fiber maturity, yarn, fabrication, and finishing; standard for many manufactured fibers 2. Durability: medium strength (30% stronger when wet); moderate abrasion resistance, low elongation 3. Comfort: absorbent, good heat and electrical conductivity; heavy 4. Appearance retention: moderate; low resiliency; shrinks; may sag or bag with use 5. Care: washable or dry-cleanable; no special cleaning needs; store clean and dry 6. Damaged by acids, not greatly harmed by alkalis; resistant to organic solvents 7. Environmental effects: oxidized by sunlight G. Uses: apparel, interiors, technical uses, and exports H. Cotton Incorporated and National Cotton Council promotes use of cotton

Silk

IRREGULAR DIAMETER!!! A. Produced by silkworm; only natural filament fiber B. Background and history -discovered in 2640 BC by Chinese princess -comes from a caterpillar C. Production 1. Sericulture: cultivated silk worm produces cocoon of silk covered by sericin 2. Wild silk or tussah: less regular and staple 3. Duppioni silk: thick and thin silk 4. Momme: silk fabric weight (1 momme = 3.75 grams) 5. Various grades of silk fabric; grade A is best D. Physical structure: natural very fine filament with triangular shape E. Properties: 1. Aesthetic: soft luster, excellent drape; standard for many manufactured fibers; hand, texture, and drape controlled by silk type, yarn, fabrication, and finish 2. Durability: strong, moderate abrasion resistance, good elongation 3. Comfort: absorbent, good heat retention, dry hand, medium density, poor conductor of electricity 4. Appearance retention: moderate resistance to wrinkling; moderate elastic recovery; dimensionally stable 5. Care: dry cleaning often recommended 6. Environmental effects: weakened by sunlight and perspiration; possible insect damage 7. Sustainability: production methods, social impact, animal rights issues, fiber processing and fabric finishing, dry cleaning F. Uses: primarily in apparel and interiors

Hemp

NODES!!! A. Properties: high strength, not pliable, poor elastic recovery B. Uses: Twine, cord, apparel, paper, technical uses C. Sustainability: few agricultural chemicals used in production, high yield per acre

Flax

NODES!!! A. Retting: bacterial rotting process to remove fibers from stalk B. Cottonize: cut to a length similar to cotton fibers to be processed on cotton equipment C. Background and history -oldest textile fiber, having been used in the Stone Age D. Linen: fabric made from flax E. Flax structure: long irregular fiber with nodes; tow (short) and line (long) F. Flax fiber 1. Short fibers: tow 2. Long, combed fibers: line G. Properties: 1. Aesthetics: irregular appearance to fabric 2. Durability: strong, stronger when wet; low elongation; stiff fiber, abrasion resistant 3. Comfort: high regain; good conductor of electricity and heat; heavy 4. Care: similar to cotton, less resilient 5. Sustainability: chemicals and water from retting; alternate retting processes being investigated H. Uses: fashion fabrics for apparel and interiors

Ramie

NODES!!! A. Structure: irregular fiber; long, lustrous, and fine B. Properties: 1. Aesthetics: irregular appearance to fabric 2. Durability: strong and abrasion resistant; brittle with low elastic recovery 3. Comfort: good absorbency, stiff, and rough, heavy 4. Care: poor resiliency, elongation can be a problem C. Uses; imported apparel, interiors, technical uses

Wool

SCALES!!! A. History and background -used by people in the Stone Age B. Production: sheep raised for wool; sheared and graded/sorted on fineness, length, color, crimp, and strength C. Complex physical structure 1. Scales a. Contribute to felting: permanent shrinkage b. Used to make felt and in finishing wool fabrics 2. Natural bicomponent fiber: creates crimp and resiliency D. Kinds of wool: fiber from sheep, goats, camel, llama, and alpaca 1. Lamb's wool: from animals less than 7 months old; softer and finer 2. Virgin wool: wool never used or processed before 3. Wool: new wool or fibers reclaimed from knit scraps, broken thread or yarn, and noils (short fibers from worsted yarn production) 4. Recycled wool: reprocessed from woven fabric E. Properties: 1. Aesthetic: dull luster; can be varied by yarn, fabric, and finish; standard for many manufactured fibers 2. Durability: moderate abrasion resistance, low strength (especially when wet), high elongation 3. Comfort: high absorbency, high heat retention, resilient, allergenic potential, medium density 4. Appearance retention: excellent resiliency, good dimensional stability when dry cleaned, excellent elastic recovery 5. Care: does not soil readily; dry cleaning recommended; avoid chlorine bleach 6. Environmental effects: weakened by strong sunlight; attacked by insects—can be mothproofed 7. Sustainability: grazing habits of sheep, disposal of manure, exposure to disease, treatment of predator animals, chemical and water use in fiber processing and fabric finishing, dry cleaning F. Uses: apparel, interiors, and technical textiles