Textile Science Chapter 1-3

thermal retention

ability of a textile to hold heat.

fiber crimp

waves and twists along the fiber

greige fabric

-unfinished fabrics -bought by converters

translucence

ability of a fiber to allow light to pass through.

denier

weight in grams per 9,000 meters; manufactured fibers and yarns

affinity

when a particular dye is capable of combining with a fiber and can impart color to it

bleaching

whitens textiles by removing irregular natural color; produces uniform white goods required for dyeing

waterproof fabric

will not wet regardless of exposure time or striking force of water

moiré finish

wood-grain or watermarked appearance on unbalanced plain weave fabrics; flatten areas along ribs reflect more light and contrast with normally-shaped rib areas; moiré taffeta and others

twist

-z-twist -s-twist

bast fibers

flax, ramie, hemp

PCE

- Perchloroethylene a. Most widely used b. Creates few problems with fabric shrinkage, does not affect water-soluble dyes, and non-flammable c. Regulated as possible carcinogen and contributor to forest decline d. Less perc used because of changes in equipment and practices

printing

-Adds color to textile surface in specific areas -Provides great design flexibility and relatively inexpensive patterned fabric -Almost any fabric can be printed; printed after dyeing possible (overprinting) -Usually on fabric, but also possible on yarns and products -CAD systems speed process; allow for exploration of different patterns, scales, and colorways (different color options available for a print)

water volume

-Allows for agitation -Removes and keeps soil suspended -Minimizes wrinkling

water hardness

-Amount and type of mineral (calcium, iron, and others) dissolved -Makes cleaning more difficult; accumulates as deposits on pipes, faucets, etc. -Remove or bond them to another compound (water-softening agent)

digital printing

-Color applied using ink jet printer on carpets, samples, prototypes, and fiber art -Slow process, fabric width restrictions, fastness issues, and changes in fabric hand

heat transfer printing

-Design printed on paper transferred to fabric by heat and pressure -Usually applied to synthetic fiber fabrics -Produces sharp clear designs, low production costs, less chemical waste, concerns about disposal of waste paper

water temperature

-Determines effectiveness of some cleaning compounds -Warmer water better at removing oily soils; but may set stains if soil includes colorant -Heating water uses lots of energy

water

-Most common and widely used solvent; solvent used in laundering -Cheap, readily available, nontoxic

routine finishes

-Prepare fabrics for coloration, aesthetic and special purpose finishes -Converts fabric into an attractive, serviceable, and marketable product

mills

-a company that owns textile machinery and makes fabric -vertically integrated=not only make the fabric, but they also produce their own yarn and perform the finishing processes required after the fabric has been created -sell their finished fabrics to various customers, especially converters, jobbers (help dispose of excess or surplus merchandise for the mill), and retailers.

strength

-a fiber's ability to withstand stress. AKA durability. -tenacity=the force needed to break a fiber. -End use: outerwear, tires, parachutes etc.

static electricity

-a frictional electric charge caused by the rubbing together of two dissimilar materials. -hydrophobic fibers have it, -hydrophillic fibers do not -End Use: none

Polymers

-a large molecule, or macromolecule, composed of many repeated subunits 1) Crystalline=Polymers can crystallize upon cooling from the melt, mechanical stretching or solvent evaporation. Crystallization affects optical, mechanical, thermal and chemical properties of the polymer. 2) Amorphous=polymers that do not exhibit any crystalline structures in X-ray or electron scattering experiments. They form a broad group of materials, including glassy, brittle and ductile polymers.

polyester

-a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85 percent by weight of an ester of an substituted aromatic carboxylic acid, including, but not limited to, substituted terephthalate units and parasubstituted hydroxy-benzoate units -has a rod-like shape with a smooth surface -**most used manufactured fiber in the US (+) -medium-weight fiber, -very good strength and abrasion resistance -excellent resiliency -good elasticity -wash-and-wear fiber! (-) -hydrophobic! -static and pilling -oleophilic=absorbs oil easily -TRADEMARK: DACRON, Eco-fiTM, COOLMAX®, ESP®, Polargard®, Repreve®, Fortrel® -End uses: apparel, interior textiles, industrial areas (suits, skirts, professional uniforms, performance fabrics, curtains, sails, carpets)

overseas agents

-a person or company that represents an exporter or importer in the countries overseas where it conducts business -have knowledge and access to local business contacts, buying sources, and customers -understand local customs and regulations and serve a myriad of tasks including translation and advising their clients in proper courtesies and dress when overseas

fiber trademark

-a word or words used by a fiber supplier or producer to distinguish its fibers form fibers of the same generic class produced or sold by others -intended to attract the attention of potential customers, both industrial and consumer -appear on product labels and promotional material -EX: Dacron (polyester, INVISTA), Anso (nylon, Shaw), and Modal (rayon, Lenzing Fibers)

cover

-ability of a fiber to conceal or protect. -the ability to occupy an area. -good cover provides warmth and feels substantial. -End uses: coats, any items for warmth.

resiliency

-ability to return to original shape after bending, twisting, or crushing. - Wrinkle Resistance -the capability of a material to spring back to shape after being creased, twisted, or distorted. AKA wrinkle recovery; -good res.=doesn't wrinkle -bad res.=wrinkles!

wicking

-ability to transfer moisture along a fiber's surface. -the ability of a fiber to transfer moisture from one section to another, usually transferred to fiber surface and evaporates and cools wearer. -smooth surface=reduces wicking action. -if hydrophobic fiber it can still "wick" as long as it has very thing filament fibers. End Use: sportswear

solution dyeing

-also called dope dyeing or mass pigmentation -the coloring agent is added to the liquid spinning solution of manufactured fiber before it is extruded from a spinerette

exclusive brand

-also known as captive brand -a national brand with distribution through one retailer -difference from private label is the difference in control and ownership

coloration

-any dyeing or printing process used to add color to a textile -the process of adding color

jobbers

-buys from mills, converts, and garment manufacturers, as well as form other users -often buy mill or converter fabrics that would otherwise be difficult to sell, including discontinued styles and colors and mill overruns -purchase large quantities of predicted popular, high demand fabrics for the near future -offer low prices and interesting fabrics, but CANNOT offer continuity of a fabric

fiber dyeing

-color added to fibers before yarn production a. Mass pigmentation or solution dyeing color pigments or dyes added to spinning solution, spin colored fibers b. Fiber dyeing: loose fibers dyed before yarn processing; mottled, tone-on-tone, or heather effects

PLA (poly lactic acid)

-derived from natural sugars -is at least 85% by weight of lactic acid ester units, polylactide -(Polyactide) fiber is the first manufactured fiber made from a 100% annually renewable resource - corn (+) -excellent resiliency, -biodegradable -outstanding crimp retention -good wicking -thermal insulation -breathability -high UV protection -excellent hand and drape -TRADEMARK: Ingeo, Ecodear, SORONA -End uses: stuffing or fiberfill in pillows, comforters, and mattress pads, active wear, fashion apparel, outdoor furniture, wipes, disposable products, bottles, packaging films, food-service utensils

solubility

-differentiates between cellulosic and protein fibers -a chemical property referring to the ability for a given substance, the solute, to dissolve in a solvent. It is measured in terms of the maximum amount of solute dissolved in a solvent at equilibrium. The resulting solution is called a saturated solution.

manufactured fibers

-fibers are made from chemical compounds produced in manufacturing facilities. Original form is not recognizable as a fiber. -manufactured through science and technology -designed to resolve particular problems and answer specific needs -made from chemical solutions that are forced through tiny holes of the spinnerette 1) regenerated manufactured fiber=A fiber manufactured by dissolving a natural material, such as cellulose, and then restoring or regenerating the material through extrusion and precipitation. Cellulose, for example, is commonly regenerated to form rayon. 2) synthetic manufactured fiber=extruding fiber forming materials through spinnerets into air and water, forming a thread (spinnerette method)

napped

-fibers brushed to fabric's surface to increase thickness, warmth and softness a. Knit fabrics: velour and fleece b. Woven fabrics: flannel (plain or twill weave wool or wool-like), flannelette (plain weave cotton, often printed, napped on one side); outing flannel (yarn dyed, solid color, or printed cotton plain weave, napped on both sides)

homogeneous fiber

-fibers composed mainly of a single chemical substance

natural fibers

-fibers grown or developed in nature in recognizable forms. -found in nature -obtained from plants and animals -come from stems, leaves, or seeds of plants -animal fibers protect people against the cold

silk

-filament & staple (only natural filament fiber) -rounded, triangular shape with an uneven diameter -thinnest of natural fibers -form silk worms -**tussah silk=wild, uncultivated silk, thicker and less lustrous, heavier and rough (end use: apparel and home furnishings) (+) -excellent drape -luxurious hand -lustrous -hydrophilic -little static problems, no pilling -strength is good (-) -fair resiliency and abrasion resistance -weak when wet -poor resistance to prolonged sunlight exposure and can be attacked by moths -expensive -turns yellow if washed with bleach -weaker when associated with alkalies (strong soaps) -degrades over time when exposed to atmospheric atmosphere -hard to preserve -TRADEMARK: NA -End uses: evening wear, home furnishings, luxury apparel

rayon (viscose)

-first manufactured fiber -manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose -fiber has a serrated, round shape (+) -medium-weight, -fair to good strength and abrasion resistance -hydrophilic -no static or pilling -washable under proper care conditions -properties like Cotton, soft and comfortable fiber (-) - poor elasticity and resiliency -significantly weaker when wet (caution when laundering) -shrinks -attacked by mildew and silverfish -TRADEMARK: MODAL (HWM rayon=high performance rayon), Galaxy® Rayon, BembergTM, Lenzing Viscose® -End uses: apparel, drapery/upholstery and nonwoven fabrics

pilling

-formation of tiny balls of fiber on the fabric surface. -the formation of groups of short or broken fibers on the -surface of a fabric that are tangled together in the shape of a tiny ball called a pill. -hydrophobic: pills cause of static electricity, -hydrophillic: no pills. -End Use: none

flax

-from stem and stalk of the flax plant -bast fiber -nodes! (+) -The fiber is long and fine with special luster. -The fiber has the highest tenacity and lowest elongation of all the usual natural cellulosic fibers. -Drying and cooling effect -excellent strength -strongest plant fiber -stronger when wet -good hand -hydrophilic -no static or pilling -linens are lint free (-) -fari resistance to abrasion/less durable -poor drape, elasticity, and resiliency -vulnerable to mildew and silverfish -The fibers are a bit stiffer, harsher -TRADEMARK: NA -End uses: dresses, suits, sports jackets, luxury tablecloths, napkins, sheets, and wallpaper

bamboo and bamboo rayon for some

-from stem of plant -sustainable fiber (+) -bamboo rayon: soft hand, great luster, moisture regain, great wicking, and elasticity -colors easily -blocks ultraviolet rays and naturally neutralizes odors -quick growth -no pesiticides (-) -coarse hand (by itself) -struggles with abrasion resistance -TRADEMARK: the federal trade commission (FTC) china -End use: towels, robes, mats, socks, underwear, t-shirts, and baby garments

cashmere

-from the inner coat of asian cashmere goats (+) -extremely fine -outstanding softness/hand (-) -requires three goats for one sweater -expensive? -TRADEMARK: china -End use: scarves, throws, sweaters, suits, and coats for the luxury market

fiber length

-helps in identification -staple=short fibers -filament=long fibers

hand

-how a textile feels to the touch. -the way a fiber, yarn, or fabric feels when handled; -affected by its shape, surface, and configuration. -End uses: soft hand=scarf or sweater, harsh hand=rope maybe

cross sectional fiber shape

-influences the way light is reflected from the surface 1) flat-surfaced=reflects light evenly more luster than round one (GOOD luster) 2) round-surface=reflects light in one general direction, causing a shiny surface (FAIR luster) 3) multilobal-surface=reflects light unevenly, causing a diffuse glow with sparkles (GLITTER) 4) irregular-surface=reflects light in many directions, resulting in dullish appearance with few highlights (POOR luster)

tone on tone effect

-made with one dye bath -light and dark shades of the same color on a fabric containing only one generic fiber -only achievable with specific varieties of nylon, polyester, and acrylic fibers

metallic

-manufactured fiber composed of metal, plastic-coated metal, metal-coated plastic, or a core completely covered by metal (+) -decorative effects -lessens static -do not tarnish or cut adjacent yarns -increase fabric stiffness (-) -ironed at low temperatures -TRADEMARKS: Lurex, Angelina -End uses: draperies, tablecloths, dresses, sweaters, swimwear, shoes, accessories, ribbons, and (in small amounts) in carpet

nylon

-manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polyamide in which fewer than 85 percent of the amide linkages are attached directly to two aromatic rings -rod-like shape with a smooth surface -second most used manufactured fiber in US (+) -lightweight fiber, -excellent strength and abrasion resistance -good elasticity -good resiliency & good drape (-) -weaker when wet -static, -pilling, -poor resistance to sunlight exposure -not good with chlorine bleach -TRADEMARK: TACTEL, Anso®, ANTRON (trilobal), Caprolan®, Supplex®, Meryl® -End use: luggage

spandex

-manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85 percent segmented polyurethane -monofilament/very fine filaments that immediately fuse together to form monofilament (+) -able to stretch and snap back like natural rubber -lightweight fiber -excellent stretch and recovery properties -good durability -no pilling or static (-) -poor strength (not critical 'cause of good elasticity) -hydrophobic -becomes yellowed after long exposure to air -not thermal resistant (ironing/heat involvement must be quick) -expensive -TRADEMARK: LYCRA, XFIT Lycra®, Glospan®, Dorlastan®, Creora® -End use: denim, undergarment and support , ski pants, swimwear, athletic apparel

olefin

-manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed at least 85 percent by weight of ethylene, propylene, or other olefin units except amorphous polyolefins that qualify as a rubber fiber -rod-like shape with a smooth surface (+) -lightweight fiber, -good strength and abrasion resistance -excellent sunlight resistance and weatherability -hydrophobic (good for water proof table cloths) -excellent wicking action when thin -excellent resiliency (-) -hydrophobic so not a good clothing option -static and pilling -not thermal resistant -TRADEMARK: Turcon, CoolVisions, Essera®, Herculon®, Spectra® -End uses: running, cycling, diving, surfing apparel, indoor/outdoor carpeting, bathroom and kitchen floor covering, and upholstery, waterproof table cloths

acrylic creslan

-manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85 percent by weight of acrylonitrile units -round shape, smooth surface (+) -lightweight -good drape -warm/thermal retention yet lightweight fabrics -good resiliency and elasticity -excellent resistance to sunlight and weathering -resistant to moths, oils, and chemicals -easy laundering and drying (-) -hydrophobic -static and pilling -fair strength -weaker when wet -fair abrasion resistance -TRADEMARK: Dralon, Toraylon -End use: sweaters, blankets, carpeting, children's garments, and outdoor products such as awnings, market umbrellas, and tents

acetate

-manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is cellulose acetate -round shape with striations on the surface (+) -excellent drape -luxurious hand -fair resiliency -fair absorbency -no pilling and little static -inexpensive (-) -poor strength -poor abrasion resistance -poor elasticity -weaker when wet -must be dry cleaned or carefully laundered -sensitive to heat -subject to fading from pollutant gases in the air -TRADEMARK: Estron, Chromspun -End use: lining fabric, lingerie, graduation gowns, ribbons, backing fabric for bonded materials,a nd cigarette-filter material

lyocell

-manufactured fiber made from the pulp of eucalystus trees (+) -More abrasion resistance and stronger than all other cellulosic fiber -Eco-friendly -Good resiliency and flexibility -less shrinkage -launderable and stronger when wet, good absorption -great luster -soft hand -good drape (-) -expensive -shrinks on first wash...? -when washed fuzziness and pilling over the life of the product -color and hand changes may occur -laundry agitation can accelerate surface change -vulnerable to mildew and some insects -TRADEMARK: Tencel -End uses: dress slacks, blouses, pajamas, shirts, and dresses

microfiber/NANO fiber

-manufactured fibers that are much finer than normal fibers (+) -hand becomes softer -drape more fluid -wicking is improved (-) -more costly than other fabrics -costly -TRADEMARK: Acetate - MicroSafe® Nylon - Supplex® Micro, Silky Touch® Polyester - Fortrel MicroSpun®, Microtherm® Rayon - Micro Modal® -End use: broad range of end uses (includes blouses, pants, suits, lingerie, dresses, raincoats, upholstery, sheets, running gear, undergarments, nonwovens, and industrial products)

converters

-organization that buys greige (unfinished) goods, usually from mills, to have the fabric dyed or printed and finished by other companies, and then sells the finished fabric -determines all aspects of fabric: construction, design, color, finish -smaller than mills -converters sell to same customers as mills (apparel and interior furnishings manufacturers, jobbers, and retail stores), sometimes one converter to another

discharge print

-piece dyed fabric with color removed from areas by printing with bleach paste; requires dark ground; best way to produce dark rich ground colors -Discharged areas may be tender (weak) -Trace of dark ground may be visible on technical back in printed area or along pattern

heterogeneous fiber

-prepared from two or more chemically or physically distinct components -each component, if separately extruded into a fiber, would be classified as one of the generic fibers of the TFPIA

Three types of fabric put-up

-put-up=the way fabric is packaged when it is sold 1) shorts=pieces of fabric shorter than 40 yards in length -bought by jobbers 2) remnants=usually 1 to 10 yard pieces of cloth 3) pound goods=typically very short pieces of fabric (often containing pieces of less than one yard in length) -sold by the pound and not by the yard -fabric that cannot be sold any other way becomes pound good

cotton

-seed fiber (+) -good strength and abrasion resistance -hydrophilic, absorbs moisture quickly and drying gives cooling effect -comfortable (for hot weather wear too) -stronger when wet/launderable -no static/pilling -fair drape/flexibility, soft hand, inexpensive (-) -poor luster -poor elasticity and resiliency -attracts mildew and silverfish -TRADEMARK: cotton incorporated, supima, IFCP -End use: widely used in apparel, home furnishings, and industrial fabrics

luster

-sheen caused by light reflected from a fiber's surface. -the light reflected from a surface. -increased light is from a smoother surface. -End use: evening wear

color

-significant factor for textiles - One of most important characteristics of product -Process and type of colorant affect product appearance, performance, care labels, production time, quality and cost

thermoplastic

-the ability of fibers to withstand heat exposure is an important factor affecting their suitability for many end uses. -a thermoplastic fiber softens when heat is applied and may melt to a liquid state when higher heat is applied; this effect causes permanent creases and pleats. -End Use: pleated garments

flexibility

-the ability to bend repeatedly without breaking - Drape -the capability of a fiber to bend easily and repeatedly without breaking. AKA drapability -End uses: low flex. backpacks, high flex. evening wear

elasticity

-the ability to increase in length when under tension (elongation) and then return to the original length when released (recovery). -more comfortable when stretchable. -elastomeric fibers=elongate at least 100 percent. -End use: stretch spandex, leggings, sweaters

absorbency

-the ability to take in moisture -hydrophillic=water loving -hydrophobic=water hating -hygroscopic=absorb moisture without feeling damp -End Use: sportswear, towels, water proof jackets/table clothes

spinnerette

-the device used to form the filaments -the fine liquid streams of solution that are forced through the holes are hardened into continuous strands called filament fibers -the number of holes in the spinnerette, as well as their shape and their size, varies according to the filament fiber and yarn desired -the shape of the hole can be varied to produce round, triangular,a "T," or some other shape of fiber -the size of the holes vary to make filaments finer or heavier

wool

-the fiber that forms the covering of sheep -MERINO fabric is best!!! -major source of world's wool is New Zealand and Australia -scaly, crimp, lumen??? (+) -Good resiliency and flexibility -Fair to good abrasion resistance -Hand is from fair to excellent. -Poor luster -Hygroscopic. -Thermal retentive -Natural water repellency (-) -Felting occurs in the presence of heat, moisture, and agitation -Subject to Pilling -Chlorine wash turn yellow -Vulnerable to Alkali good to acid -Venerable to moths, can be mothproofed. -Dry clean, but can be washed -Weak when wet -TRADEMARK: woolmark & woolmark blend -End Uses: overcoats, suits, sweaters, carpets, upholstery, felt fabric

fiber width

-thickness of fiber -thicker=stiffer fiber, results in wrinkle resistance and sometimes rough hand -large-diameter fibers= result in bulkier fabrics, don't pack as well as thin fibers -fine-diameter fibers=result in fabric that is sheer, light-weight, and generally more drapable and softer to the touch than fabric of thicker fibers -size of diameter of natural fibers varies depending on fiber type -natural fibers don't have uniformity -manufactured fibers are uniform in width and length and available in range of fiber diameter

retail stores

-usually have a large variety of fabrics with a small inventory of each one -sell fabrics to home sewers through over-the-counter sales

ramie

-white fiber, AKA china grass (+) -fine -absorbent -quick drying fiber -most resistant to mildew and rotting & strongest of all plant fibers -high natural luster (-) -slightly stiff -low elongation -TRADEMARK: China -End use: apparel for the mass market, some interior furnishings, ropes, and industrial threads

three types of textiles & end uses

1) fibers=the smallest part of the fabric -fine, hairlike, natural/manufactured -End use: it becomes yarn, ex: cotton, spandex, wool 2) yarns=continuous threadlike strands composed of fibers that have been twisted together -various types: flat and dull to slubby and lustrous -End use: it becomes fabrics 3) fabrics=made from yarns and are either woven or knitted -created by mills -tremendous variety of fabrics -End use: can be made into anything

Fiber identification

1) microscopy=viewing through a microscope to observe visual properties of a fiber 2) burn characteristics= range from: burn or melts, shrinks from flame, odor, residue, and other properties

fiber surfaces

1) smooth 2) rough 3) slightly grooved 4) deeply channeled 5) wrinkled -the fiber surface affects such properties as hand, luster, and wicking

Longitudinal Fiber Configuration

1) straight 2) coiled 3) twisted 4) crimped=refers to the bends and twists along the length of a fiber -greater crimp increases resiliency, bulk, warmth, elongation, absorbency, and skin comfort -as crimp increases hand becomes rougher and luster reduces -allows fabric to stand off of wearer's skin creating a cooling sensation, so they feel comfortable wearing the clothing item -increase ability to be bent back and forth without breaking

common methods of producing filament fibers

1) wet spinning=solution is forced through the spinnerette and then into a liquid solution in which the fiber solution streams harden into continuous filaments EX: acryclic, rayon 2) dry spinning=the fiber solution, mixed with a solvent, is forced through the spinnerette into warm air. The warm air helps evaporate the solvent, and the liquid stream then hardens EX: acetate, modacryclic fibers 3) melt spinning=a solid material is melted to form a liquid solution that is forced thorugh teh spinnerette and into cool air, where the liquid fiber streams harden into continuous filaments EX: glass, nylon, polyester, olefin

Properties common to all cellulosic fibers

1. Absorbent 2. Good conductor of heat 3. Withstands high temperature 4. Low resiliency 5. Low loft 6. Good conductor of electricity 7. Heavy fibers 8. Sensitive to mineral acids, resistant to alkalis 9. Resistant to some insects; damaged by others and mildew/mold 10. Flammable 11. Moderate resistance to sunlight

dye

1. Complex compound that adds color to materials by binding with their internal structures 2. Soluble in water or other liquid; colors all parts of materials 3. Rinsing required 4. Strong colors, little goes a long way 5. Must be compatible with fiber 6. Used to dye and print fabric 7. Many dye classes that differ in process requirements, chemistry, and performance

pigment

1. Insoluble color particle bound to textile surface; usually only on face 2. Quick, simple, and economical to apply 3. Broad color range with excellent fastness 4. Any color on any fiber 5. Low color strength; much more pigment needed compared to dyes 6. Do not need to be rinsed 7. Ink: a paste of pigment and other ingredients for printing

soap

1. Made from naturally occurring animal or vegetable oil or fat 2. Reacts with hard water minerals and forms insoluble curd 3. Weaker than detergents at cleaning; replaced in most applications except for hand soap and shampoo

storage

1. Occurs between production steps and in consumer's home 2. Influences textile appearance, quality, and performance; contributes to problems with mildew, insects, discoloration, dye or print transfer, may set wrinkles 3. Do not store textiles in direct contact with wood, paper, newspaper, or cardboard or in dry-cleaner bags 4. Store clean and dry and protect from insects and mildew

fiber manufacture process

1. Prepare fiber-forming solution 2. Extrude solution through hole in Spinneret to form fiber 3. Solidify fiber

dry cleaning

1. Solvent other than water used 2. Drycleaning and Laundry Institute International a. Professional organization: trains and educates dry cleaners, fair-claims adjustment guide for settling consumer complaints, and evaluation service b. Display membership plaque 3. Process a. Check item in: identification tag assigned b. Pretreated at spotting board c. Tumbled in dry cleaning unit with solvent, detergent, and tiny amount of water d. Solvent reclaimed

detergent

1. Synthetic compound designed to remove soil from fabric 2. Make textiles wet faster by changing surface tension of water 3. Mixture of many ingredients, each with specific function 4. Recipe differs by region and country based on soil type, water conditions, regulations and laws, and detergent type (liquid or powder) a. Removes and suspends soils, reduces problems with hard water, and wets textiles more quickly b. One part that attracts organic soils and a second part that attracts the solvent and dislodges the soil; agitation breaks soil into tiny pieces suspended until rinsed away

regenerated fibers

A. Cellulosic: rayon, lyocell, and acetate B. Protein: azlon

chemical wash

Chemical alters fiber surface; creates irregularities on fiber's surface; acid-wash denim and others

fabric dyeing

Dyed in fabric stage: generally produces solid color; known as piece dyeing

overprint

Over a dyed fabric.

roller printing

Roller etched with design; picks up paste and presses it onto fabric as fabric passes between rollers; different roller for each color, up to 16 colors

importers

Two Types: Direct - buys foreign fabric or manufactured textile products from a foreign mill or other supplier and brings it into the US. It is then sold to a US apparel manufacturer or other customer (ex: retailer) Import mill - foreign company that owns textile machinery and makes fabric (or yarn) to export to the US

federal trade commission

US agency that interprets and enforces laws and regulations that protect consumers and domestic segments of the global textile complex

resist dyeing

Yarn or fabric treated to block areas from taking color during dyeing

fabric

a flexible planar substance constructed from solutions, fibers, yarns, fabrics, or any combination

yarn

a grouping of fibers that is twisted or laid together to form a continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric

color standard

a large sample of fabric or a precise and accurate set of digital information that represents the desired color

private label

a retail brand in which apparel or other sewn products are manufactured specifically for a retailer and sold exclusively by that retailer

care labeling regulations

a. Accurate, permanent label with care instructions b. Words or symbols

fiber size

a. Apparel: less than 7 denier b. Interiors: 5-25 denier c. Technical: any size d. Microfibers: less than 1.0 denier e. Nanofibers: less than 1,000 nm

garment dyeing

a. Color added after product cut and sewn (product-dyeing or garment-dyeing) b. Requires well prepared gray goods c. Problems with leveling, difference in components, poor penetration

yarn dyeing

a. Dye in yarn stage; used for stripes, plaids, or structural design fabrics b. More expensive than piece dyed; solid colors usually piece or product dyed (not yarn or fiber dyed) c. Better quality compared to printed patterns

fiber shape affects

a. Flat: sparkle or glint b. Trilobal and other shapes: silk-like, hide soil, bulky, wicking, crush resistant c. Multilobal or with surface channels: improved absorbency, wicking, moisture management d. Thick-thin fibers: uneven diameter e. Hollow: insulate and provide buoyancy

textile fiber identification act

a. Focuses on all fibers not included in Wool Products Labeling Act b. Defines fiber generic names c. Fibers listed in order by weight d. Manufacturer identification number or name e. Restrictions on promotional information (trademarks and trade names) f. Country of origin

wool products labeling act

a. Focuses on fiber produced by sheep and related animals b. Defines fine wool and cashmere c. Requires manufacturer identification by RN or WPL number d. Name of country of manufacture 4. Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (available at point of purchase) a. Focuses on all fibers not included in Wool Products Labeling Act b. Defines fiber generic names c. Fibers listed in order by weight d. Manufacturer identification number or name e. Restrictions on promotional information (trademarks and trade names) f. Country of origin

flammable fabrics act

a. Focuses on specific product categories b. Includes children's sleepwear (two size ranges), large and small carpets and rugs, mattresses and mattress pads

ingredients of detergent

a. Keep textiles from picking up soil from wash water b. Make yellow or dingy fabrics look white c. Enzymes remove fuzz from cellulosic products d. Antifading agents maintain original color e. Dye-transfer inhibitors prevent staining of lighter-colored items f. UV absorbers and antibacterial compounds g. Perfumes: detergents smell better and wash smells clean h. Dyes: make detergents look richer

shrinkage resistance

ability of a fabric to retain a given size through care or cleaning.

elastic recovery

ability of an extended fiber, yarn, or fabric to return immediately to its original length.

Dimensional stability

ability to retain a given size and shape through use and care.

elongation potential

ability to stretch without breaking.

electrical conductivity

ability to transfer electrical charges.

heat conductivity

ability to transfer heat through a fabric.

tenacity

ability to withstand a heavy pulling force.

light resistance

ability to withstand exposure to light without color fading or fiber weakening.

abrasion resistance

ability to withstand rubbing and folding.

flocked

add very short surface fiber with adhesive for local pile effect

sizing

adds body and weight; temporary or permanent

pleating

adds pleats to fabric

powder bleach

all-fabric or color-safe bleach; good on all fibers and colored fabrics at any water temperature; not as powerful as chlorine bleaches; does not disinfect

fiber shape

alter mechanical or aesthetic properties

textile

any flexible material that is composed of thin films, or of fibers, yarns or fabrics or products made of films, fibers, yarns, or fabrics

finish

any process that modifies appearance or enhances performance of gray goods

fiber

any substance, natural or manufactured, with a high length to width ratio with suitable characteristics for processing into fabric; the smallest component, hair-like in nature that can be removed from a fabric

color goal

appealing, level, fast color at a reasonable price, with good performance and minimal environmental impact

applied design

applied to fabric

tentering

applies crosswise and lengthwise fabric tension during drying; meet fabric specifications for grain, width, and count

water soluble soil

beverages, etc.; absorbed by hydrophilic fibers; dissolve in water

liquid chlorine bleach

bleaches and disinfects; may cause damage if not diluted; will yellow protein and synthetic fibers

mixture

body soil; removed with detergent, water, agitation, and special cleaning aids

singeing

burns away fiber ends from fabric surface; reduces pilling, gives smooth surface for printing

sort

by color, garment type, soil type, care label information and linting ability

renewable finish

can be applied by consumers or dry cleaners

mercerization

caustic soda treatment; most often applied to cotton; improves dye affinity (slack mercerization); increases strength, luster, and absorbency (tension mercerization)

abrasive wash

chemically saturated abrasive material tumbled with fabric; stone-washed denim, sanded, sand-, or mud-washed silk, sand-washed nylon

fabric softener

coat fabric; reduce static and stiffness

direct print

color applied directly to desired location

fading

color loss from damage to internal structure due to air pollution, perspiration, sunlight

bleeding

color loss in water; may color other fabrics present

migration

color moves to adjacent areas or fabrics

crocking

color transfer to another surface due to rubbing or abrasion

water repellent fabric

combine dense structure, regular yarns, and finish

carpet

combine engineered fiber, stain release finish, and dye-blocking compound

fiber parts

complex for natural fibers; simple for manufactured fibers.

cleaning

complex process involving water or other solvent, cleaning compounds, and equipment to remove many soils from wide range of fibers, yarn and fabric structures, colorants, and finishes

cellulose

complex sugar molecule

fulled

controlled felting of wool fabrics to improve appearance, hand, texture, thickness, and body (boiled wool)

seed fibers

cotton

printed fabrics

definite face and back; pattern clear, precise pattern on face, irregular or difficult to see on back; color unevenly positioned on raveled yarns

care

describes procedures to remove soil and return products to new or nearly new conditions and the storage conditions that help maintain textile products

screen printing

design screen controls application of color; one screen per color

colorfast

dyes and prints that do not fade or change color when exposed to light and other environmental factors and do not move onto other textiles during storage, processing, use, or care

colorant

dyes or pigments that add color to textiles

heat setting

effective on synthetic fibers; controlled exposure time and heat locks in memory for yarn twist, fabric crimp, wrinkle resistance, size, and shape

embossed finish

engraved rollers create flat and three-dimensional designs for flat and pile fabrics; embossed cotton and others

enzyme wash

enzyme dissolves cellulose; removes surface fuzz; decreases pilling, fabric weight, and strength (slightly)

off-grain

fabric printed off-grain; print disappears off fabric edge when cut on grain

duplex print

fabric printed on both sides

sueded

fabric surface abraded to improve hand, comfort, and give suede-like texture; also known as peach skin

bicomponent fiber

fiber consists of two components that are chemically different, physically different, or both; several types possible

wrinkle recovery

fiber internal structure pulls components back into position after being bent; good internal memory for heat sensitive fibers, chemicals give memory to cellulosic, wool, silk and other fibers

heat sensitivity

fiber's reaction to heat.

cross dyeing

fibers of different dye receptivity (modification or generic class) for color patterns

union dyeing

fibers of different dye receptivity (modification or generic class) for uniform color

sheared

pile or nap cut to controlled height; uniform pile height or sculptured (sculptured velvet)

filament tow

filaments are crimped, then cut into shorter lengths

soil with colorant

food and grass stains; removed with detergent and bleach

stuck on soil

gum, mud, or wax; removed by agitation or scraping

batik

hand process; hot wax placed on fabric in design; wax cools and hardens; piece dyed; wax removed; process repeated for each color; price related to quality and number of colors present

tie-dyed

hand process; yarn or fabric wrapped with thread to create resist pattern, dyed, thread removed; process repeated for each color or color applied in select areas

ikat

hand process; yarn tied, dyed, woven; warp or filling or single or double (warp and filling) ikat

diameter

helps determine fabric performance and hand; related to end use

shrinkage control finishes

helps textiles maintain their original size and shape

glazed chintz

highly glazed, usually printed balanced plain weave fabric

ciré fabric

hot roller melts and glazes surface for high gloss or "wet" look

flammability

how a fabric reacts to ignition sources and how it burns.

fabric softeners

improves hand

water absorbent finishes

increases moisture absorbency

polished cotton

polished surface, usually solid color, plain weave fabric

durable press

items retain their shape and wrinkle-free appearance for many uses; effectiveness decreases with age

permanent finish

lasts for the life of the textile

durable finish

lasts for the life of the textile, effectiveness decreases with age or use

temporary finish

lasts until the textile is washed or dry-cleaned

filament

long continuous fiber; fiber ends appear only at cut edge of fabric **CANNOT BE COTTON**

stain release finish

makes stains easier to remove or reduces soiling

optical brighteners

mask yellow; alternative to bleaching

micrometer

natural fibers

texture

nature of a textile surface.

fabric specification

no matter where it originates, must ship the fabric exactly as specified (yarns per inch, width, weight, thickness, breaking strength, degree of colorfastness)

color match

objects look to be the same color under one or more light sources

metamerism

objects match under one light source, but not under another light source

relaxation

occurs during first cleaning cycle

oily soil

oil, grease, fatty soil; absorbed by oleophilic fibers; removed with detergent, organic solvent, and heat (hot water)

wovens

overfeeding fabric to induce lengthwise shrinkage during finishing

knits

overfeeding fabric to induce lengthwise shrinkage during finishing or drying, fabric under little or no tension

leaf fibers

sisal

schreiner finish

presses hundred of very fine diagonal lines on yarn surfaces, flattens yarns, increases cover and smoothes fabric; cotton sateen, damask, and tricot

plissé finish

print caustic soda on cotton, shrinks, creates puckered effect; areas dye darker

out-of-register

print pattern overlaps or misses desired areas

burn out

print solvent on blend fabric to dissolve one fiber; also known as etched or devoré

finish

process done to fiber, yarn, or fabric to change appearance, hand, or performance

laundry

process of washing apparel and some interior textiles by consumers using washers and dryers, water as the solvent, detergent, and other cleaning compounds

calendaring

produces smooth, flat, ironed finish on fabric

textile end use

products constructed of textiles. Includes apparel (clothing and fashion accessories), interior textiles (textiles used in homes and buildings), and technical textiles (all other end uses)

dyeability

receptive to coloration by dyes.

fiber modifications

reduce problems or improve performance

antistatic finishes

reduces fabric cling, improves comfort, reduces attraction of dust and lint, reduces shocks

surface contour

smooth, rough, serrated, etc.; related to comfort, soiling

shrinkage

relax tension from spinning, fabrication, and finishing; consumer problem

boil off

remove sericin from silk to create looser, more supple and lively fabric

scouring

removes foreign matter and soil before finishing and dyeing

flame retardent finish

resist ignition quickly, burn slowly, and self-extinguish

compressibility

resistance to crushing.

Chemical resistance

resistance to reaction with chemicals.

water repellent finish

resistant to wetting

burn test

reveals cellulosic or protein content

lab dip

sample prepared by dyehouse and used by the creative team to determine when a color match has been achieved

rotary screen

screen in cylinder form; faster; most common and cheapest method for yardage

flat screen

screen is flat; slower; for shorter yardages

cross section

shape of fiber; relates to luster, bulk, body, texture, hand, etc.

fabric crimp

shape resulting from interlacing or inter-looping yarns in fabric

staple

short; fiber ends appear throughout the fabric

progressive

shrinkage continues at smaller rates for several additional cleaning cycles

density

specific gravity, measure of fiber weight per unit volume.

wool finish

surface-coat fiber with film or use halogenation to partially dissolve scales

level

textile with the same hue, value, and intensity of color in all areas

cohesiveness

the ability of fibers to cling together during spinning.

loft

the ability to spring back to the original thickness after being compressed--compression resiliencey

drape

the manner in which a fabrics hangs over a form.

fabric sample

the seller is required to deliver a fabric almost identical to the sample because the sample is a representation of what the buyer will later receive

crimp

the three-dimensional shape of the fiber

environmental concerns

the way that production, use, care, and disposal of textiles affects the environment.

carbonizing

treats wool with acid to destroy plant matter and cellulosic fibers; prepare wool for dyeing and improves texture

production matching problems

unlevel or inconsistent color throughout the length and width of fabric and from dye lot to dye lot

denier per filament (dpf)

used to describe or specify yarns; yarn size/number of filaments

warp printing

warp yarns printed before weaving; produces hazy pattern