TXA 325M Final

Martin Margiela

"The Artist is Absent" Deconstruction Exaggeration Ultra-discreet trademark Master tailor Gaultier, Hermes 2008 - he was done...

Antiwar Protesters and the Blue Jeans

1. Flower in your hair 2. Or native american headband 3.Hair is long and unkempt 4.Mini or micro minis or jeans. A chain blet. Boots - gogo boots. Mocassins 5.Fringe - vests for men. Bell bottom jeans 6.Peace symbols everywhere.

1980s Economic and Political Changes

3 fashion api-centers: -Ronald Reagan = President ( USA) -Margaret Thatcher = Prime Minister ( UK) -Francois Mitterand = President ( France) Trend Factors: -Luxury, excess, freedom, strength, opulence, body-conscious, urban culture Fashion Factors: Oversized, asymmetry, colorful, athletic wear

Moving Forward Today

Sustainability Technology Humanity

Claire McCardell

Designer who defined American sportswear 1905-1958

Christian Lacroix

From the South of France Couture House 1975, ready to wear 1988 bubble skirt, Provençal prints, theatrical, old culture and folklore Comparable to Gucci

Jean Paul gaultier

Men in Skirts Haute Couture and pret-a-porter anything is possible - a boy from the streets one of the first designers to use a trans model

"Hiroshima Chic"

-A starting contrast to the excessiveness of the 1980s -Like existential puzzles constructed in scraps of black -Obliterates the niceties of fashion and unwittingly rewrites the rules of the game

1942 Sleepy Lagoon Murder

- José Gallardo Diaz was found dying in the road near a swimming hole on August 2. 1942. 17 young Mexican-American youth were quickly arrested put on trial. Nine were tried and convicted of murder without sufficient evidence. media called for action against foot suiters August 10th police rounded up 600 latinos - charged with suspicion of assault, armed robbery and related offenses 175 eventually held got crimes

More on Appropriation

-when a style leads to racist generalizations -when a style is deemed high fashion cool or funny when the privileged wear it

American Sportswear

Monastic Cuts Matching separates

Zoot Suits

- beginning of style tribes -fashion that led to civil unrest - fashion can be a way of claiming space for yourself - To some men, the suits were a way of refusing to be ignored

Historical Snapshot 60-70s

-Assassination of President Kennedy in 1963 -The start of the American War in Vietnam in 1965 -Assassination of Martin Luther King, JR in 1968 -The first Moon landing in 1969 -The National Environmental Policy Act of 1970 -The Watergate scandal and Nixon's resignation in 1974 -Social protests in the US grew out of movements protesting the Vietnam War, supporting civil rights and women's rights and concerns about the environment -"Style tribes" emerged - groups that followed styles that diverged from mainstream fashion. Although the notion of using dress to proclaim an ideology or membership in a specific group obviously did not originate in this time period, the tendency for young people to identify with a specific group and set themselves apart greatly accelrated. Greasers - Mods, Hippies, Punks, rockers

Internationalism

-In 1929, 500,000 Americans traveled abroad. -In 1958, 1,398,000 Americans traveled abroad. -Travelers returned with fashion and décor from the countries they visited. -Americans became more receptive to imported goods sold in the U.S. -1960's: Asia, Africa, South America began to export goods.

50-60s Trends and Social Behavior

-Increased travel ( airlines) -drip dry fabrics -wash-and-wear fabrics -permanent press -Television ( Gender roles were clearly defined, men went to work, women stayed home)

Men's Fashion Trends 60s-70s

-Nehru Jacket -Safari Style ( Yves Saint Laurent made it popular and it was depolarized in 2012) -Leisure Suits -Return of the Three Piece Suit -Body Suits ( Saturday Night Fever)

Fabric Technology

-Pre-war: natural fibers > silk, wool, cotton, and linen -Nylon (developed before the war), but not successfully marketed until after the war, touched off a search for other synthetic fibers. -19Major 50's apparel fibers: Modeacrylics (1949) Acrylics (1950) Polyesters (1953) Triacetate (1954) Spandex (1959)

Cristobal Balenciaga

-Spanish born - established in Paris in 1937 -Reopened after WW ll -Know for sculptural shapes and forms -Fashion forward - ahead of his time... -Major force in Haute Couture for the 50's into the 60's (Chanel did not reopen until 1954). -Closed in 1968. He died in 1972. -Today: Demna Gvasalia

Cultural Authentication

-The process "whereby elements of one culture are incorporated into the dress of another" -Assimilation through which a garment or accessory external to a is adopted or changed -the style is changed in some way -rarely an entire garment is adopted.

Civil Right movement

-What were some of the fashions that emerged at the time of the civil rights movements of the 1960s? -Black pride and Black Power gave rise to fashion that reflected the African heritage: dashikis, kente cloth, hair that reflected the natural curl - afros, "corn rows" -What were the motivations that led many African-Americans to adopt these styles? -A new consciousness of African culture influenced by the accomplishments of the civil rights movement of the 1960's -To what extent did these styles become part of mainstream fashion?

L-85 Regulations

-issued on March 8, 1942 by the US War Production Board (WPB) with the goal of a 15% reduction in the amount of textiles used in women's wear -skirt lengths and widths, slacks width restricted -prohibited pleats, ruffles, patch pockets, attached hoods and shawls, and full sleeves or skirts -Hems and fabric belts could be no wonder than 2 inches -garments could have no more than 1 pocket -exemptions for bridal gowns, maternity, and religious vestments

Transition from the Empire Period

-necklines were lowering into a horizontal position making it difficult for women to move their arms. -women's positions at home were more important ( entertainment, had to dress well)

Zoot Suits cont.

-super-sized shoulder pads - sprawling lapel, peg leg pants -grew out of the drape suits in Harlem dance hall -by the 40s they were being worn by minority men

Sonia Rykiel

1930-2016, French, sportswear, knitwear

Coco Chanel closed her house in

1939

Schiap moved to America in

1940

Poiret died

1944

The New Look: Fashion Conformity

1947-1960

The Women's Movement

1968 Miss America Pageant "Let's Judge Ourselves As People" crowned a live sheep, dumped bras, girdles, curlers, wigs and false eyelashes "freedom trash can"

1990s - a caring, more optimistic decade; shiny, happy people, Friends

Age of Electronics Technology Internet Women: -minimalism -retro 60s 70s -Street fashion Men: -hip hop influence -grunge.oversize fit

1990s -2000s designers

Alexander McQueen Rick Owens Geoffrey B. Small Stella McCartney Iris Van Herpen

Sustainability

Anti-fast fashion recycled and re-seen mixing and matching wardrobes gender neutral clothing climate change

1939-1947 Men vocabulary

Boxer shorts, jockey shorts, t-shirts, Henley Shirts, Business suits, Tuxedos with a formal vest, Barrymore collar, Windsor collar, Eisenhower jacket

Alexander McQueen

British 1969-2010 dramatist tailor

First American fashion magazines

published in the 1830s gave women the latest styles from Paris

Iris Van Herpen

Dutch, technology, materials, techniques started in 2007 invited member of Haute Couture

Technology

Environmentally friendly fibers Fewer pesticides for cultivation Biodegradable Personal safety /medically Sportswear High performance

Gigot Sleeve

Extremely full at the shoulder, decreasing in size to the wrist where they end in a fitted cuff.

1950's

Fashion Meets Greasers

Magazines

Fashion styles were circulated through magazines. Magazines showed sketches of women in the latest fashions from Paris. That main American fashion magazines of the time were Godey's Lady's Book and Peterson's magazine. Fashion plates used in the magazines may not have been the most accurate depiction of styles worn. Artists may have used different colors or rendered textiles incorrectly.

1990s Back to reality

For the majority of the decade, 1990s fashion in Europe, Oceania, Asia, and America was defined by a return to minimalist fashion[1] contrasted to the more elaborate and flashy trends of the 1980s. One notable shift in the western world was the mainstream adoption of tattoos,[2] body piercings aside from ear piercing[3] and to a lesser extent, other forms of body modification such as branding. In the early 1990s, several late 1980s fashions remained very stylish among both sexes. However, the popularity of grunge and alternative rock music helped bring the simple, unkempt grunge look into the mainstream by 1994. The anti-conformist approach to fashion led to the popularisation of the casual chic look; this included T-shirts, jeans, hoodies, and sneakers, a trend which continued into the 2000s (decade). Additionally, fashion trends throughout the decade recycled styles from previous decades,[4] notably the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s.

Photography

From 1839 on, photography documented the way people dressed.

Peacock Revolution

Gender-specific clothes became "square" - gay clothes became acceptable for non-gay men

19th Century changes France

Napoleon is exiled and the Empire - and its style - dies. The government is in shambles and the return to a Monarchy spawns another revolution. The feeling of revolt spreads to Austria, the German states and Italy. BUT, France is still the most stylish.

Examples of cultural appropriation

Native American head dress The Fez

Prêt-a-porter

In the 1960's, society had evolved in such a way that the norms imposed by haute couture had become obsolete...On September 26, 1966, Saint Laurent became the first couturier to open a ready-to-wear boutique under his name.

Examples of potential Authentication

Indian madras to the Kalabari in Nigeria ( did not produce fabric- decided to buy madras- Hawaiian Holoku

Paris was influenced by their designers of the 1980s

Issey Miyake Yohji Yamamoto Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons Christian LaCroix Thierry Mugler Azzedine Alaia Jean Paul Gaultier

Peacock Revolution

It Broadened the definition of masculinity

Peacock Revolution

It helped normalize "queer" fashion -1967 the decriminalization of homosexuality -The Sexual Offences Act of 1967

Peacock Revolution

It let men rebel against gender expectation

British Music Styles

New Romantics - Post Punk New Wave - Goth

1939-1947 women vocabulary

L-85 rationing, artificial silk, Claire McCardell, zippers, platform shoes and slips

Peacock Revolution

Let a generation explore individuality - Youthquake -a break from tradition -non-conformists -new options

19th century changes America

Manifest destiny / western expansion Louisiana Purchase Cotton becomes the primary crop and economic source for the South. The North and South are divided by slavery.

Paco Rabonee

Master of metal

19th Century Changes England

Parliament gives voting rights to more men. Victoria is made Queen in 1837. Extreme nationalism prevails. An ever-growing empire.

Foundation garments for The New Look

Petticoats (underdress/slip) and Girdles ( slip with latches at the bottom)

British Trends and Design Icons

Princess Diana Vivienne Westwood Post-punk, new Wave, new romantics, goth

Peacock Revolution

Reached the elders -Bill Bass -wall street wore color -man purses

1920s mens trends

Shoulderpads disappeared, and men began wearing tighter-fitting jackets with sloping shoulders. Ties became more casual as silks were replaced with a variety of knits. Bow ties became quite "in" during the 1920's, too. By the mid 20's, new button-down shirts with attached collars and softer fabrics were introduced and made the norm. The white striped shirts of the previous decade were replaced with an explosion of color The summer months called for Panama straw and boater hats, while the colder months required felt fedoras. As automobiles grew in popularity and general affordability, cars became a major part of 1920's culture. This resulted in the popularity of driving-specific attire, such as flat driving caps made of tweed or wool, leather jackets, and white silk scarves.

Humanity

Social media Globalization Cultural acceptance Political leaders The arts

Courrèges

Space Collection 1964

Thierry Mugler

Strong, cruel, shoulders were wide and padded; waists were wasp like prints were banished, sold, dominating colors, sharp points, or flame like cutouts Reworked classic masculinity and made it modern - like the 1940s suit angular openly gay, a long time body builder Similar to Iris Van Herpen

Romantic Period Silhouette

Style of dress was wide and heavy with an exaggerated shoulder. The waist dropped from the Empire down to just above the natural waistline - exaggerating the female form. The length was shorter, revealing a low leather bootie.

1960s Overview

Suits became tighter-fitting, trousers were narrow, and vests were all but a thing of the past. 1950's formality eventually gave way to skinny and flared trousers, flower shirts, wide lapels, and other adventurous trends. Some say that while women's fashion was becoming decidedly more boxy and masculine, men's fashion took a more effeminate turn in the 60's, with longer hair, bright colors, thin silk scarves, paisley prints, velvet pants, puffy sleeves, and men's jewelry all taking their turn in the fashion spotlight . Following the lead from the previous decade, youth continued to branch off from adults and lead the way when it came to fashion, and the 60's was predominantly considered "youth-driven" in terms of subcultures-mod, rocker, hippie, etc.-and the trends that came with them. 60's fashion, as a result, was as bold as it was lighthearted.

Designers 1990/2000s

The Antwerp Six John Galliano Alexander McQueen Sonia Rykiel

The Antwerp Six

The Antwerp Six includes Belgium's six most influential avant-garde fashion designers: Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, and Marina Yee. In the 1980s, they all received their diploma from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts of Antwerp. traveled to London in 1988 New face of fashion

1920s mens

The Jazz Age brought bolder fashion for men—including patterned suits, shirts and ties. The decade called for a new take on life, and the postwar optimism of society was reflected in everything from clothing to music.

Christian Dior 1905-1957

The New Look: the Bar Suit -lengthened skirt -cinched waist -round, soft shoulder line ( replaced the square) -enormous skirts -nipped waistline -emphasized hipline Parisian women rebelled

Peacock Revolution

The Peacock Revolution of the '60s and '70s pushed against gender roles and gender presentation much in the same way that fashion houses like Gucci and Prada are doing now. By arming men with chiffon and silk, effeminate silhouettes and flamboyant prints, facets of the sartorial world have long been helping broaden the definitions of "masculinity" and "femininity."

Romantic Era Themes

The Romantic period of 1820-1850 refers to the literature, arts, music and dress of the time. It was a time when expression of emotion and feeling were valued and historical references in architecture and dress were revisited. Romantics rebelled against restrictions of organized expression. Imagination was more important than reason. They preferred other times and places to the current era they lived in. Romanticism was a reaction to neoclassicism. They found the rational, mathematical reasoned elements of classical art too confining. The artists embraced chaos and drama.

Space Exploration

The Russians launched Sputnik in 1957

Cultural Appropriation

The adoption of elements of a minority culture by members of a dominant culture -colonialism: development or exploitation -appreciation becomes fetishization -cultures reduced to a single stereotype

Post War Conformity

The era of the Man in the Gray Flannel Suit—conformity was king. The Business Man knew to dress like his superiors. men's attire was decidedly simple everyone had returned from the War... "head of the household"= "husband." men wanted to look as much like good Americans as possible, and thus, everyone looked alike no more shoulder pads (but if they did, they were minimal), double-breasted suits were greatly outnumbered, ties were slimmer, shirt collars were less pronounced, and the brims of hats were considerably narrower Trousers remained mostly unchanged

1942 Sleepy Lagoon murder trial

The resulting criminal trial is now generally viewed as lacking in the fundamental requirements of due process. Seventeen Latino youths were indicted on the murder charges and placed on trial.[5] The courtroom was small and, during the trial, the defendants were not allowed to sit near, or to communicate with, their attorneys. None of those charged were permitted to change their clothes during the trial by order of Judge Fricke at the request of the district attorney on the grounds that the jury should see the defendants in the zoot suits that were "obviously" worn only by "hoodlums". Every time a name was mentioned by a witness or the district attorney, regardless of how damning the statement was, the named defendant was required to stand up.[4] Judge Fricke also permitted the chief of the Foreign Relations Bureau of the Los Angeles sheriff's office, E. Duran Ayres, to testify as an "expert witness" that Mexicans as a community had a "blood-thirst" and a "biological predisposition" to crime and killing, citing the culture of human sacrifice practiced by their Aztec ancestors.[6]

1900-1919 mens clothing

Traditional middle-class "men's suit" replaced the frock coats of the 1800's. In the early 1900s, a three-piece suit meant business. Starched, detachable collars were also the norm—and were always white. lighter fabrics and simpler suit separates grew in popularity a simpler single-breasted jacket with narrow lapels and high buttons, paired with straight trousers button-down shirts were typically pastel, striped, and adorned with a club (round-edge) collar and a tie.

Zoot Suit Riots (1943)

a series of riots in 1943 during World War II that exploded in Los Angeles, California, between white sailors and Marines stationed throughout the city and Latino youths, who were recognizable by the zoot suits they favored; the effect of the infamous Sleepy Lagoon murder which involved the death of a young Latino man in a barrio near Los Angeles; triggered other similar attacks in other places

Comme des Garçons: Rei kawakubo

anti-fashion, deconstruction, wabi sabi "For something to be beautiful, it doesn't have to be pretty..."

Princess Diana

beauty, strength, luxury, philanthropy "Diana had an ability to sell clothes just by looking at them." Wellingington boots skyrocketed after she was pictured wearing a pair in the Balmoral estate married Prince Charles in 1981.. set a tone to change the monarchy

Zoot Suit Accessories

chains /watch fobs Suspenders wide, colorful tie large, flat hat thick soled shoes

African Dashiki

cotton, glowing colors, dramatic sleeves stretchy,

20th centry mens trend

detachable collars

90s =

everything that the 80s was not

1980s USA

excess, excess, excess exercise wear logo wear designer jeans power suits big hair oversized accessories makeup

1950s Youth Style

fitted white and black t-shirts, ringer t-shirts, baseball shirts, black or blue rolled-up denim, leather jackets, bomber jackets, and letterman jackets. Teenagers would complete the look with fedoras, motorcycle helmets, vintage leather caps, flat caps, army boots, winklepickers, creepers, and Converse Chuck Taylor All-Stars. DA/ ducktail hairstyle

Zoot Suit pants

high waisted wide-legged tight-cuffed -peg-legged

Azzedine Alaïa

holds fashion shows when he has something to show, on his own time frame Grace Jones, Madona, Lady Gaga, Michelle Obama Died last year - intimacy of fashion

Rick Owens

pattern maker draper futuristic

Zoot Suit jacket

long coat wide lapel oversized large padded shoulders

Women's styles in the 1960s

miniskirts, pantyhose, A-line shapes London to the US mini, micro mini, midi, maxi skirts

Women's clothing trends

short skirts, hot pants( high waisted, tight shorts), granny dresses

Change in silhouette 1946-1947

straight to curvy again

Issey Miyake

technology driven, over-sized, asymmetric, origami pleats and folds Now 80 years old. In the late 1980s, he began to experiment with new methods of pleating that would allow both flexibility of movement for the wearer as well as ease of care and production. The garments are cut and sewn first, then sandwiched between layers of paper and fed into a heat press, where they are pleated. The fabric memory holds the pleats and the garments are liberated from their paper cocoon. Pret-a-porter! "Design is not for philosophy - it's for life"

the 1950s for teenagers and young adults

the 50's were boring. the overall sense of postwar calm that permeated society wasn't all that stimulating, and the greaser subculture was born. influenced by rock and roll and fittingly named from the iconic greased-back hairstyles of the era. greasers were typically working-class youths, "hoodlums", and motorcycle gangs. Greasers became a popular subculture both in pop culture and in fashion due to influence from Elvis Presley, Marlon Brando, and James Dean.

Early style tribes

the Calvinists, the Puritans, the Sans Culottes

Yahoji Yamamoto

the Japanese invasion, subversive, black, negation of female form 75 years old - with Kawabuku - first showd in Paris in 1981 Still lives and works in Tokyo and Paris "I couldn't stand designing bitch's clothing" Poor financial decisions led to restrcting in the early 2000s -- collaborations. Y-3, Daughter Limi, etc.

Vivienne Westwood

the Queen of British Fashion 'Fashion is eventually about being naked." " I was messianic about punk, seeing if one could put a spoke in the system in some way."

The Romantic period was named after

the arts and literature that stressed expression of emotions. Preferred imagination over rational thought and used historic past for inspiration

fabric rationing

wool -> uniforms cotton-> tents Silk & Nylon -> parachutes