52 Final Study Guide

Chapter 30-Seeking Employment

. A test wise student begins to prepare for a test by practicing good study habits and time management. These habits include the following: • Planned realistic study schedule • Reading content carefully and becoming an active studier. • Well organized notebook • Detailed vocabulary list • Effective notes • Organizing and reviewing handouts • Reviewing past tests/quizzes • Listen to cues about what's expected of test • Be mentally ready • Have plenty of rest • Dress comfortably • Anticipate anxiety • Avoid cramming the night before • Checking to see if computerized test Test wise: understanding the strategies for successful test taking. 2. Deductive reasoning: process of reaching logical conclusions by employing logical reasoning. 3. Stem: Basic question or problem that will often provide a clue to correct answer. 4. Integrity: Committed to a strong code of moral and artistic values. 5. Strong work ethic: Taking pride in your work and committing yourself to consistently doing a good job for your clients. 6. Enthusiasm: Try never to lose your eagerness to learn, grow, and expand your skills and knowledge. 7. Small independent salons: owned by an individual or two or more partners that makes up the majority of professional salons. 8. Independent salon chains: Usually chains of five or more salons that are owned by one individual or two or more partners. Range from basic hair salons to full service salons and day spas. Offer everything from low priced to high priced services. 9. Large national salon chains: Operate throughout the country, and even internationally. Some salon chains operate within the department store. 10. Franchise salons: Another chain organization that has a national name and a consistent image and business formula that is used at every location. Owned by individuals who pay a fee to use the name. 11. Basic value priced operations: often located in busy, low rent shopping center strips anchored by a nearby supermarket or other large business. 12. Mid priced full service salons: offer a complete menu of hair, nail, and skin services along with retail products. 13. High end image salons or day spas: employs well trained stylist sans salon assistants who offer higher priced services to clients. 14. Booth rental establishments: booth renting, aka chair rental, is probably the least expensive way of owning your own business. 15. Resume: a written summary of a person's education and work experience. Basic guidelines to follow when preparing your resume: • Keep it simple • Print a hard copy • Include name, address, phone number, and email on both resume and cover letter • List recent, relevant work experience • List relevant education and the name of the institution from which you graduated • List professional skills • Focus on info that is relevant to position seeking. 16. It takes about 20 seconds to scan a resume. 17. Dos and Don'ts of Resumes • Put complete contact info • Make it easy to read • Know your audience • Keep it short • Stress accomplishments • Focus of career goals • Emphasize transferable skills • Use action verbs • Make it neat • Include professional references • Be realistic • Always include a cover letter • Note any skills with new technologies • Avoid salary references • Avoid info about why you left former positions • Don't stretch the truth 18. Employment portfolio: a collection, usually bound, of photos and documents that reflects your skills, accomplishments, and abilities in your career field. Includes the following elements: • Diplomas • Awards and achievements • Current resume • Letters reference from former employers • Summary of continuing education • Statements of membership in industry & other professional organizations • Statement of relevant civic affiliation/community activities • Before and after photographs of services performed • Brief statement about why you chose cosmetology • Any other info you feel is relevant 19. When writing why you chose cosmetology, include the following elements: • Statement of what you love about your new career • Description about the importance of teamwork and how you see yourself as a contributing team member. • Description of methods and ideas you would use to increase service and retail revenue. 20. Interview prep: • SSN # • DL # • Contact info • Name and number of nearest relative On day of interview, practice following behaviors: • Be on time • Turn off your cell • Project a warm smile • Walk, sit, and stand with good posture • Be polite and courteous • Do not sit until asked or obvious • Never smoke or chew gum • Don't come to interview with food or drinks • Never lean on or touch interviewer's desk. • Try to project a positive first impression • Speak clearly • Answer questions honestly • Never criticize former employers • Always thank the interviewer 21. Legal Questions to ask: • If over the age of 18 • Questions on drug or tobacco use • Authorized to work in US? • Are you physically able to perform job? • What languages are you fluent? Illegal Questions: • How old are you? • Please describe medical history • Are you a U.S citizen? • What is your native language?

Chapter 6 General Anatomy & Physiology

1. Anatomy: the study of the human body structures that can be seen with the naked eye. 2. Physiology: the study of the functions and activities performed by the body's structures. 3. Histology: also known as microscopic anatomy, the study of tiny structures found in living tissues. 4. Cells are the basic units of all living things. 5. Protoplasm: a colorless jelly-like substance found inside cells in which food elements such as proteins, fats, carbs, mineral salts, and water are present. 6. Nucleus: the dense, active protoplasm found in the center of the cell. Plays part in cell reproduction and metabolism. 7. Cytoplasm: the protoplasm of a cell, except for the protoplasm in the nucleus, that surrounds the nucleus; it is the watery fluid that cells need for growth, reproduction, and self-repair. 8. Cell membrane: the cell part that encloses the protoplasm and permits soluble substances to enter and leave the cell. 9. Mitosis: the usual process of cell reproduction of human tissues that occurs when cells divides into two daughter cells. 10. Metabolism: a chemical process that takes place in living organisms. 11. Anabolism: constructive metabolism, the process of building up larger molecules from smaller ones. 12. Catabolism: the phase of metabolism that involves the breaking down of complex compounds within the cells into smaller ones. 13. Osteology: the study of the anatomy, structure, and function of the bones.

Chapter 13 Basics of Electricity (Refer to flashcards as well

1. Electricity: the movement of particles around an atom that creates pure energy. 2. Electric current: the flow of electricity along a conductor. 3. Conductor: any material that conducts electricity. 4. Blue light LED reduces acne. Red light increases circulation and improves the collagen and elastin production in the skin. Yellow light reduces swelling and inflammation and green light reduces hyperpigmentation. 5. Tesla is also known as violet ray. 6. Ultraviolet light: aka UV light, is also known as cold light or actinic light.

h. Twentieth Century i. 1901-1910

1. In 1904, Max Fakto emigrated from Poland to the United States where he Americanized his name to Max Factor and began making and selling makeup in Los Angeles. His makeup was known not to cake or crack under hot studio lights. 2. On October 8, 1906, Charles Nessler invented a heavily wired machine that supplied electrical current to metal rods around which hair strands were wrapped, introducing the croquignole wrapping technique. 3. Sarah Breedlove was the daughter of former slaves. She married her third husband in 1906, C.J. Walker, and became known as Madame C. J. Walker. She suffered from a scalp condition that caused her to experiment with hair products, eventually selling her product, "Madam Walker's Wonderful Hair Grower" in 1910, she moved her company to Indianapolis, where she built a factory, a salon, and training school. 4. In 1872, Marcel Grateau (aka Francois Marcel) invented the first curling iron-tongs heated by a gas burner. Around 1923, he created an electric version. He went on to develop a permanent wave machine, barbers clippers, a safety razor, and other devices.

ii. 1930s

1. In 1931, the preheat perm method was introduced. An alternative to the machine perm was introduced in 1932 when chemists Ralph L. Evans and Everett G. McDonough pioneered a method that used heat generated by chemical reaction 2. In 1932, Charles Revson of Revlon fame marketed the first nail polish opposed to a nail stain-using formulas that were borrowed from the automobile paint industry. Also at this time Lawrence Gelb, a New York Chemist, introduced the first permanent haircolor product and founded a company called Clairol. 3. In 1938, Arnold F. Willatt invented the cold wave that used no machines or heat. Considered to be the precursor to the modern perm.

iii. 1940s

1. In 1941, scientists developed another method of permanent waving that used waving lotion. This was also called a cold wave because of the lack of heat. The terms cold waving and permanent waving became synonymous. The term texture services is used today to refer to the variety of permanent waving and straightening services available for various hair types and conditions.

iv. 1951- 2000

1. In the late 1960s, Vidal Sassoon became popular with his geometric cuts. The 1970s saw a new era in highlighting when French hairdressers introduced the art of hair weaving using aluminum foil. In the 1980s, makeup went full circle, and in the 1990s haircolor became gentler, allowing all ethnicities to enjoy being blonds, brunettes, or redheads. In 1998, Creative Nail Design introduced the first spa pedicure system to the professional beauty industry.

Chapter 14 Principles of Hair Design

1. Line: defines form and space. a. Horizontal lines: create width in hair design. b. Vertical lines: create length and height in hair design. c. Diagonal lines: positioned between horizontal and vertical lines, used to emphasize or minimize facial features. d. Curved lines: lines moving in a circular or semicircular direction to soften a design. e. Single lines: one length hairstyles f. Parallel lines: repeating lines in a hairstyle. Can be straight or curved g. Contrasting lines: horizontal and vertical lines that meet at a 90 degree angle. h. Transitional lines: usually curved lines that are used to blend and soften horizontal and vertical lines. i. Directional lines: lines with a definite forward or backward movement. j. Form: the mass or general outline of a hairstyle. k. Space: the area surrounding the form or the area the hairstyle occupies. l. Design texture: wave patterns that must be taken into consideration when designing a style. m. Proportion: the comparative relationship of one thing to another. n. Balance: establishing equal or appropriate proportions to create symmetry. i. Symmetrical balance: when an imaginary line is drawn through the center of the face and both sides form a mirror image. ii. Asymmetrical balance: established when the two imaginary halves of a hairstyle have an equal visual weight, but positioned differently. 2. Rhythm: regular pulsation or recurrent pattern of movement in a design. 3. Emphasis: aka focus, it's what draws the eye first before traveling to the rest of the design. 4. Harmony: the creation of unity in a design and is the most important of the art principles. Holds all the elements of the design together. Face Types • Oval: Ideal, 1 and a half times longer than its width. • Round: round hairline and round chin, wide face • Square: wide at temples, narrow at the middle third of the face, and squared at the jaw. • Triangular: narrow forehead, wide jaw and chin line. • Oblong: long, narrow face with hollow cheeks. • Diamond: narrow forehead, extreme width through cheekbones, and narrow chin. • Inverted triangle/heart: wide forehead, and narrow chin line. 5. Profile: the outline of the face, head, or figure seen in a side view. a. Straight profile: considered the ideal. The face viewed when neither concave nor convex. b. Convex profile: receding forehead and chin, curving outward c. Concave profile: prominent forehead and chin, curving inward.

Chapter 4 Communicating for Success

14. Reflective listening: listening to the client and then repeating in your own words, what you think the client is telling you. 15. Client consultation: aka needs assessment, the verbal communication with a client that determines what the client's needs are and how to achieve the desired results. 16. Effective communication: the act of sharing information between two people or groups of people so that the information is successfully understood.

Chapter 17 Hairstyling

17. Finger waving: the process of shaping and directing the hair into a S pattern through the use of the fingers, combs, and waving lotion. 18. Waving lotion: is a type of hair gel that makes the hair pliable enough to keep it in place during the finger waving procedure. Parts of a curl • Base: the stationary foundation of the curl, which is the area closest to the scalp, the panel of hair which the roller is placed. • Stem: the section of the pin curl between the base and first arc turn of the circle that gives the curl its direction and movement, the hair between the scalp and the first turn of the roller. • Circle: is the part of the curl that forms a complete circle and ultimately the wave. The size of the circle determines the width of the wave and its strength. Mobility of a curl • No stem curl: placed directly on the base of the curl. • Half stem curl: permits medium movement; the curl (circle) is placed half off the base. • Full stem curl: allows for greater mobility, placed completely off the base. 19. Ridge curls: pin curls placed immediately behind or below a ridge to form a wave. 20. Skip waves: two rows of ridge curls, usually on the side of the head. Represents a combination of pin curls and finger waving. 21. Barrel curls: have large center openings and are fastened to the head in a standing position on a rectangular base. 22. Cascade curls: aka stand up curls, are used to create height in the hair design. Fastened to the head in a stand up position to allow the hair to flow upward and then downward. 23. Base: the panel of hair on which the roller is placed. The base should be the same length and width as the roller. 24. Stem: the hair between the scalp and the first turn of the roller. 25. Curl: aka circle, the hair that is wrapped around the roller. Determines the size of the wave or curl. 26. On base: aka full base, full volume, sits directly on base. 27. Half base: medium volume, roller sits halfway on base and halfway behind base. 28. Off base: least volume, sits completely off the base. 29. Backbrushing: aka ruffing, used to build a soft cushion or mesh two or more curl patterns together for a uniform and smooth comb out. 30. Backcombing: aka teasing, ratting, matting, or French lacing, involves combing small sections of the hair from the ends toward the scalp. 31. Soft press: removes 50-60% of curl, applying pressing comb once on each side of hair. Medium press: removes 60-75% of curl, applying pressing comb once on top twice on bottom. Hard press: removes 100% of curl, applying pressing comb twice on each side of hair.

Chapter 18 Braiding & Extensions

32. Hackle: board of fine, upright nails through which human hair extensions are combed. 33. Drawing board: flat leather pads with very close, fine teeth that sandwich human hair extensions. 34. Human hair extensions: gold standard for hair extensions. Mostly imported from Asia. 35. Kanekalon: manufactured, synthetic fiber of excellent quality, high heat resistant. 36. Nylon/rayon synthetic: less expensive, reflects light and leaves hair shiny. Known to cause hair breakage. 37. Lin: beautiful wool fiber imported from Africa with a matte finish and comes in only black and brown. 38. Yak: strong fiber that comes from the domestic ox found in the mountains of Tibet and Central Asia. 39. Visible braid: three stranded braid that is created with an underhand technique (aka plaiting, one in which the left section goes under the middle strand then the right section goes under the middle strand.) 40. Invisible braid: aka inverted braid or French braid, three strand braid that is produced with an overhand technique (the first side section goes over the middle section, then the other side section goes over the middle section.) 41. Rope braid: created with two strands that are twisted around each other. 42. Fishtail braid: simple, two strand braid in which the hair is picked up from the sides and added to the strands as they are crossed over each other. 43. Single braids: aka box braids and individual braids, are free hanging braids, with or without extensions that can be executed with an overhand or underhand technique. 44. Cornrows: aka canerows, are narrow rows of visible braids that lie close to the scalp and are created with a three strand, on the scalp braiding technique. 45. Locks: aka dreadlocks, are separate networks of curly, textured hair that have been intertwined and meshed together.

Chapter 19 Wigs & Hair Additions

46. Turned hair: aka remi, hair in which the root end of every single strand is sewn into the base so that the cuticles of the hair move in the same direction. 47. Fallen hair: hair that has been shed from the head and gathered from a hairbrush. 48. Wig: defined as artificial covering of the head consisting of a network of interwoven hair. a. Cap wigs: constructed with an elasticized, mesh fiber base to which the hair is attached. b. Capless wigs: aka caps, machine made from human or artificial hair. c. Hand tied wigs: aka hand knotted wigs, are made by inserting individual strands of hair into mesh foundations and knotting them with a needle. d. Semi hand tied wigs: constructed with a combination of synthetic hair and hand tied human hair. e. Machine made wigs: least expensive option, are made by feeding wefts through a sewing machine, then stitching them together to form the base and shape of the wig. 49. Braid and sew method: hair extensions are secured to clients own hair by sewing braids or a weft onto an on the scalp braid or cornrow , which is sometimes called the track. 50. Bonding: attaching hair extensions, hair wefts, or single strands are attached with an adhesive or bonding agent. 51. Fusion bonding: method of attaching extensions, extension hair is bonded to the client's own hair with a bonding material that is activated by the heat from a special tool. 52. Linking: a hook is used to pick up a small amount of hair off a parting, a link is slid on close to the scalp with a special tool.

Chapter 15 Scalp Care, Shampooing, and Conditioning

6. Water is the most abundant and important element on earth. a. Soft water: rainwater or chemically softened water b. Hard water: often in well water and contains minerals that reduce the ability of soap or shampoo to lather. 7. Surfactants: cleansing or surface active agents. Has two ends, a hydrophilic (water attracting) head, and a lipophilic (oil attracting) head. 8. Moisturizer: product formulated to add moisture to dry hair or promote the retention of moisture. 9. pH balanced shampoo: balanced to the pH of skin and hair (4.5-5.5) 10. Conditioning shampoo: aka moisturizing shampoo, designed to make the hair appear smooth and shiny and to improve the manageability of the hair. 11. Medicated shampoo: contains special ingredients that are very effective in reducing dandruff or relieving other scalp conditions. 12. Clarifying shampoo: contains an active chelating that binds to metals and removes them from the hair, as well as an equalizing agent that enriches hair, help retain moisture, and makes hair more manageable. 13. Balancing shampoo: washes away excess oiliness, while preventing the hair from drying out. 14. Dry shampoo: aka powder shampoo, which cleanses the hair without the use of soap and water. 15. Color enhancing shampoo: created by combining the surfactants base with basic color pigment.

Chapter 3 Your Professional I mage

8. Personal hygiene: the daily maintenance of cleanliness by practicing good healthful habits. 9. Professional image: the impression you project through both your outward appearance and your conduct in the workplace. 10. Physical presentation: involves your posture, as well as the way you walk and move. 11. Some guidelines for achieving and maintaining good work posture include: a. Keep your neck elongated and balanced directly above the shoulders. b. Lift your upper body so that your chest is out and up c. Hold your shoulders level and relaxed, not scrunched dup. d. Sit with your back straight. e. Pull your abdomen in so that it is flat. 12. Ergonomics: the science of designing the workplace as well as its equipment and tools to make specific body movements more comfortable, efficient, and safe. 13. To avoid ergonomic-related injuries, follow these guidelines: a. Keep your wrists in a straight or neutral position as much as possible. b. When giving a manicure, don't reach across the table; have the client extend her hand across the table to you. c. Use ergonomically designed implements d. Keep your back and neck straight. e. Stand on an anti-fatigue mat. f. When cutting hair, sit if you can.

Chapters 20 Chemical Texture Services

Basic Building Blocks of Hair 7. Amino acids: compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen & sulfur. (COHNS) 8. Peptide bonds: aka end bonds, are chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end to end in long chains to form a polypeptide chain. 9. Polypeptide chains: long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds. 10. Keratin proteins: long, coiled polypeptide chains. 11. Side bonds: disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together. (Responsible for the elasticity & incredible strength of the hair. Altering these three types of side bonds is what makes wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, curl reforming 7 chemical relaxing possible) 12. Disulfide bonds: strong, chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in 2 adjacent protein chains are joined together. (Not broken by water but by extreme heat. Strongest & least bond accounting for 1/3 of hair's overall strength. 13. Salt bonds: weak, physical side bonds that result from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges (ionic bonds) broken by changes in pH, and reform when pH returns to normal. Many of these and account for 1/3 of hair strength. 14. Hydrogen bonds: weak, physical side bonds that result from the attraction between opposite electrical charges. (Easily broken by water or heat, but reform as the hair dries.) So many of them and count for 1/3 of overall hair strength. Permanent Waving 15. Permanent waving: 2 step process where the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods and then undergoes a chemical change caused by the application of permanent wave solution and neutralizer. (Perform elasticity test prior to service) 16. In permanent waving, the size of the rod determines the size of the curl. The shape & type of curl are determined by the shape and type of rod and wrapping method used. 17. Rod types: Concave (smaller diameter in center, larger diameter on ends; tighter curl in center, looser curl of either side of strand) Straight (equal in diameter; uniform curl) Soft bender (flexible wire w/ uniform diameter) and loop rod (aka circle rod, uniform diameter secured to form a loop) 18. End papers: aka end wraps absorbent papers used to control ends of hair when wrapping & winding on perm rods. Paper Techniques: double flat wrap (one paper under and over strand, most control) single flat wrap (one paper over hair strand) & bookend wrap (one paper folded in half over ends. Eliminates excess papers) 19. Base placement: position of the rod in relation to its base section. Determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. 20. On base: 45 degree angle perpendicular to base section. Greater volume, additional stress and tension can break hair. 21. Half off base placement: 90 degree angle /perpendicular to its base section. Minimizes stress and tension on hair. 22. Off base placement: 45 degrees below center of the base section, least amount of volume, curl farthest away from scalp. 23. Base direction: angle at which rod is positioned on head: horizontally, vertically, diagonally. Wrapping Techniques 24. Croquignole perm wrap: wrapped from ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers. (Tighter curl on ends, larger curl at scalp) 25. Spiral perm wrap: wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to length of rod. 26. Piggyback wrap: hair wrapped on one rod from scalp to midway of hair shaft, & another rod used to wrap remaining hair in same direction. (Tighter curl near scalp) Chemistry of Permanent Waving 27. Alkaline permanent waving softens and swells the hair, opening the cuticle so that the solution penetrates the cortex. Once in the cortex, the solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction. 28. Reduction reaction: involves either the addition of hydrogen or the removal of oxygen. Reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to the addition of hydrogen 29. Thioglycolic acid: colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor. Most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions. 30. Ammonium thioglycolate: active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents. Types of Permanent Waves • Exothermic Waves: Produces heat. All have three components: permanent waving solution, activator, and neutralizer. • Endothermic Waves: Absorb heat from their surroundings, Activated by outside heat source (hood dryer). • Alkaline aka cold: use (ATG) as reducing agent, pH 9.0-9.6 • Acid waves: glyceryl monothioglycolate main active ingredient has low pH. • True acid waves: pH of 4.5-7.0 (GMTG) active ingredient. • Acid-balanced waves: pH of 7.0 • Ammonia free waves: perms that use an ingredient that doesn't evaporate as readily as ammonia. Uses alkanolamines such as Aminomethylpropanol (AMP) and monoethanolamines (MEA) as a substitute. • Thio free waves: use an ingredient other than ATG such as cysteamine or mercaptamine as the primary reducing agent. • Low pH waves: the use of sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ATG. 31. Overprocessed hair: weak curl, curlier at scalp, straighter at the ends. 34. Underprocessed hair: very weak curl or straight, straighter at scalp and curlier at the ends. 35. Thio neutralization: stops the action of waving solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form. (Disulfide bonds that are broken by waving solution are rebuilt) 36. Preliminary test curl: Help determine how your client's hair will react to a perm. 37. With extremely curly hair, the thinnest and weaker sections of the hair are located at the twists. 38. The chemical reactions of thio relaxers are identical to permanent waving. 39. The neutralizer used with thio relaxers is an oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide. The oxidation reaction caused by the neutralizer rebuilds the disulfide bonds broken by the thio relaxer. 40. Japanese Thermal Straighteners combine use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing. 41. The hydrogen ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers w/ a pH of over 13. Sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and guanidine hydroxide are all types of hydroxide relaxers, swelling the hair up to 2X its normal diameter. 42. Hydroxide relaxers are not compatible with thio relaxers, permanent waving, or soft curl permanents. 43. Hydroxide relaxers break disulfide bonds differently that thio relaxers. 44. lanthionization: the process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair, the relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and converts into a lanthionine bond.(contains only one sulfur atom) hydroxide relaxers will break disulfide bonds permanently, and can never reform. 45. Metal hydroxide relaxers: ionic compounds formed by a metal sodium: sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and lithium hydroxide. (No mixing required) 46. Lye based relaxers: sodium hydroxide 47. No lye relaxers: lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Guanidine relaxers are also sold as no lye, with two components that must be mixed immediately prior to use. 48. Low pH relaxers: ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite. 49. Base cream: aka protective base cream, is an oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing. 50. Base relaxers: require the application of a protective base cream to entire scalp prior to the application or the relaxer. 51. No base relaxers: don't require the application of a protective base cream, designed to melt at body temperature. 52. Relaxer strengths: Mild (for fine, color treated, or damaged hair) Regular (for normal hair w/ medium natural curl) Super (for maximum strengthening on coarse, extremely curl, and resistant hair) 53. Periodic strand testing will help to tell you when the hair is sufficiently relaxed. 54. Hydroxide neutralization deactivates the alkaline residues left in hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers pH of the hair and scalp. Does not involve oxidation or rebuilding disulfide bonds. 55. Keratin straightening treatments work by fixing the keratin in place in a semi-permanent manner; they do not break bonds. 56. Soft curl permanent is a combo of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent that is wrapped on large rods to make existing curl larger and looser.

Chapter 22 Hair Removal

Brazilian bikini wax: a waxing technique that requires the removal of all hair from the front and back of the bikini area. Popular style of waxing. 91. Hirsuties: aka hypertrichosis, refers to the growth of an unusual amount of hair on parts of the body normally bearing only downy hair. 92. Hirsutism: an excessive growth or cover of hair, especially in women. 93. Health screening form: frequently used in skin care and is a questionnaire that discloses all medications and known skin disorders that may affect treatment. 94. Contraindications for hair removal: Accutane, blood thinning meds, drugs for autoimmune diseases, steroids, eczema, psoriasis, chronic skin diseases, sunburn, pustules/papules on area, cosmetic/reconstructive surgery, laser skin treatment, varicose veins, rosacea, very sensitive skin, fever blisters, cold sores, chemical peels, microdermabrasion, retin A, & hydroquinone. 95. Two methods of hair removal: Temporary & Permanent 96. Electrolysis: removal of hair by means of an electric current that destroys the growth cells of the hair. 97. Photepilation: aka Intense Pulsed Light, uses intense light to destroy the growth cells of hair follicles. 50-60% clearance of hair in 12 weeks. 98. Laser hair removal: laser beam is pulsed on the skin, impairing hair growth. Most effective on hair in the anagen or growth phase. 99. Shaving is the most common form of temporary hair removal. 100. Tweezing is using tweezers to remove hair and to shape the eyebrows. 101. Depilatory: a substance usually caustic and alkali prep to temporarily remove superfluous hair by dissolving it at the skins surface. (Nair, etc) 102. Epilator: removes hair from the bottom of the follicle. (Wax) 103. Threading: temporary hair removal where cotton thread is twisted and rolled along the surface of the skin, entwining the hair in the thread and pulling it from the follicle. 104. Sugaring: temporary hair removal that involves the use of a thick, sugar based paste and is especially appropriate for more sensitive skin types.

Chapter 12 Basics of Chemistry

Chemistry is the science that deals with the composition, structures, and properties of matter and how matter changes under different conditions. • Organic chemistry: The study of substances that contain the element carbon. • Inorganic chemistry: the study of substances that don't contain the element carbon, but may contain the element hydrogen. • Matter: any substance that occupies space and has mass (weight). • Element: simplest form of chemical matter. • Atoms: the smallest chemical components of an element. • Molecule: a chemical combination of two or more atoms in definite (fixed) proportions. • States of Matter o Solid o Liquid o Gas • Physical properties: characteristics that can be determined without a chemical reaction and that do not involve a chemical change in the substance. • Chemical properties: characteristics that can only be determined by a chemical reaction and a chemical change in the substance. • Physical change: a change in the form or physical properties of a substance without a chemical reaction or the creation of a new substance. • Chemical change: change in the chemical composition or makeup of a substance. Caused by chemical reactions that create new chemical substances, usually by combining or subtracting certain elements. • Oxidation: chemical reaction that combines a substance with oxygen to produce an oxide.

Chapter 31- On the Job

Cosmetology school is a forgiving environment. You are given the chance to do a certain procedure over and over again until you get it right. 2. Guidelines to meet client needs: • Put others first • Be true to your word • Be punctual • Be a problem solver • Be a lifelong learner Salon Teamwork • Strive to help • Pitch in • Share your knowledge • Remain positive • Become a relationship builder • Be willing to resolve conflicts • Be willing to be subordinate • Be sincerely loyal 3. Job description: a document that outlines all the duties and responsibilities of a particular position. 4. Compensation Plans • Salary: hourly rate usually based on minimum wage • Commission: percentage of revenue that the salon takes in from services performed by a particular cosmetologist. • Salary plus Commission: receive both salary and commission. Used to motivate employees to perform more services. • Tips: 15% of total service. EX: 15% of $50 is $7.50 5. An employee evaluation keeps tabs on progress and feedback from salon manager and key coworkers. 6. One of the best ways to improve your performance is to model your behavior after a role model. 7. Personal budget: keeping track of where your money goes. 8. Giving yourself a raise: • Spend less money • Work more hours • Increase service prices • Retail more 9. Ticket upgrading/Up selling: the practice of recommending and selling additional services to your clients. 10. Retailing: the act of recommending and selling products to your clients for at home use. 11. Tips on getting the conversation started on retailing products: • Ask clients of current products used • Discuss the products you're using • Place product in client's hand • Advise client about how recommended service will be beneficial • Keep retail areas clean • Inform client of promotions and sales • Be informed about merits of product • Offer a quick styling lesson 12. Expanding your client base: • Birthday cards • Provide consistent good service • Be reliable • Be respectful • Be positive • Be professional • Business card referrals • Local business referrals • Public speaking 13. The best time to think about getting your client back into the salon is while they are still in the salon by re booking them. 15. Your first job in the salon will be the most difficult. Be willing to learn.

Chapter 7 Skin Structure, Growth, and Nutrition

Dermatology: medical branch of science that deals with the study of skin- its nature, structure, functions, diseases, & treatment. 2. Dermatologist: a physician who specializes in diseases and disorders of the skin, hair, and nails. 3. Cosmetologists may be allowed to clean skin, preserve the health of the skin, and beautify the skin, depending on the laws and regulations of their state. 4. Esthetician: specializes in the cleansing, beautification, and preservation of the health of skin on the entire body, including face and neck. 5. Cosmetologists are not allowed to diagnose, prescribe, or provide any type of treatment for abnormal conditions, illnesses, or diseases. 6. The skin is the largest organ of the body; it would cover over 3,000 sq. inches and weigh 6-9 pounds. It protects our network of muscles, bones, nerves, blood vessels, & everything else inside our bodies. It's the only natural barrier between our bodies and the environment. 7. The thinnest skin on our body is under our eyes, and the thickest is on our palms and feet. 8. Healthy skin should be free of any visible signs of disease, infection, or injury. It is slightly moist, soft, & flexible. It has a smooth fine grained texture. 9. The skin of the scalp is constructed similarly to the skin elsewhere on the human body, but the scalp has larger and deeper follicles to accommodate the longer hair on the head. 10. The skin is composed of two main divisions: the epidermis, and the dermis. 11. Epidermis: the outermost & thinnest layer of the skin. Contains no blood vessels, but has many small nerve endings. Made up of five layers: stratum corneum, stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum, & stratum germinativum (basal cell layer). 12. Stratum corneum: aka horny layer, is the outer layer of the epidermis. It's the layer we see when we look at our skin. Its scale like cells are continually being shed & replaced by cells coming to the surface from underneath. These cells are made up of keratin, a fibrous protein that is also the principal component of hair & nails. 13. Stratum lucidum: the clear, transparent layer under the stratum corneum and consists of small cells through which light can pass. 14. Stratum granulosum: aka granular layer, is the layer of the epidermis that is composed of cells that look like granules and are filled with keratin. 15. Stratum spinosum: the spiny layer just above the stratum germinativum. The spiny layer is where the process of skin cell shedding begins. 16. Stratum germinativum: aka basal cell layer, the deepest layer of the epidermis. This is the live layer of the epidermis that produces new epidermal skin cells and is responsible for the growth of the epidermis. Contains special cells called melanocytes, which produce the dark skin pigment called melanin. 17. Dermis: aka derma, corium, cutis, or true skin, is the underlying or inner layer of the skin. The dermis extends to form the subcutaneous tissue. 25 times thicker than the epidermis. There are numerous blood vessels, lymph vessels, nerves, sudoriferous (sweat) glands, sebaceous (oil) glands, and hair follicles, as well as arrector pili muscles. 18. Arrector pili muscles: small, involuntary muscles in the base of the hair that cause goose flesh/goose bumps and papillae. 19. The dermis is comprised of two layers, the papillary (superficial) and reticular (deeper) layer. 20. Papillary layer: the outer layer of the dermis, directly beneath the epidermis. You will find dermal papillae, which are small, cone shaped elevations at the base of the hair follicles. Some papillae contain looped capillaries & others contain small epidermal structures called tactile corpuscles, with nerve endings that are sensitive to touch & pressure. This layer also contains melanocytes. 21. The top of the papillary layer that joins the epidermis is called the epidermal-dermal junction. 22. Reticular layer: the deeper layer of the dermis that supplies the skin with all of its oxygen & nutrients. Contains the following structures: fat cells, blood vessels, lymph vessels, sebaceous (oil) glands, sudoriferous (sweat) glands, hair follicles, arrector pili muscles, and nerve endings. 23. Subcutaneous tissue: aka adipose tissue, or subcutis tissue, is the fatty tissue found below the dermis. Gives smoothness and contour to the body, contains fat cells for energy use, and acts as a protective cushion for the skin. Varies in thickness according to age, gender, and general health of the individual. 24. Blood supplies nutrients & oxygen to the skin, nutrients are molecules from food, necessary for cell life, repair, & growth. Lymph, is the clear fluids of the body that bathe the skin cells, remove toxins & cellular waste, and have immune functions that help protect the skin and body against disease. 25. Motor nerve fibers: distributed to the arrector pili muscles attached to the hair follicles. Carry impulses from the brain to the muscles. 26. Sensory nerve fibers: react to heat, cold, touch, pressure, & pain. Send messages to the brain. 27. Secretory nerve fibers: distributed to the sudoriferous & sebaceous glands of the skin. Part of the autonomic nervous system, regulate the excretion of perspiration from the sudoriferous gland s& control the flow of sebum (fatty/oily secretion of the sebaceous glands) to the surface of the skin. 28. Melanin: tiny grains of pigment that are produced by melanocytes and then deposited into cells in the stratum germinativum layer of the epidermis & papillary layers of the dermis. 29. The color of the skin is a hereditary trait & varies among races & nationalities. Genes determine the type of pigment produced in an individual. 30. There are 2 types of melanin: pheomelanin (red to yellow in color) & eumelanin (dark brown to black) 31. Melanin helps protect sensitive cells from the suns UV light, but doesn't provide enough protection to prevent skin damage. 32. Collagen: fibrous protein that gives the skin form & strength. Makes up a larger percentage of the dermis & provides structural support. If collagen fibers become weakened due to age, lack of moisture, environmental damage, or frequent changes in weight, the skin will lose its tone and suppleness. Collagen comes from the Greek word kola meaning "glue" and gennan meaning "to produce". 33. Elastin: protein base similar to collagen that forms elastic tissue. Gives skin its flexibility and elasticity. Our bodies stop producing elastin around the age of 12 or 13. 34. Sudoriferous glands: aka sweat glands, excrete perspiration & detoxify the body by excreting excess salt and unwanted chemicals. Consist of a secretory coil to form the sweat pore. 35. Sebaceous glands: aka oil glands, are connected to the hair follicles. Consist of little sacs with ducts that open into the follicles. These glands secrete sebum, a fatty or oily substance that lubricates the skin &preserves the softness of the hair. 36. Acne: aka acne vulgaris, is a skin disorder characterized by chronic inflammation of the sebaceous glands from retained secretions & bacteria known as propionibacterium acnes, (P.acnes) the technical term for acne bacteria. 37. Papule: aka pimple is a small elevation on the skin that contains no fluid but may develop pus. 38. Pustule: a raised, inflamed papule with a white or yellow center containing pus in the top of the lesion referred to as the head of the pimple. Functions of the Skin 39. Protection: skin protects the body from injury & bacterial invasion. 40. Sensation: responds to heat, cold, touch, pressure, and pain. 41. Heat regulation: protects the body from the environment. Maintains an internal temperature of about 98.6 degrees. 42. Excretion: perspiration from the sudoriferous glands. 43. Secretion: sebum is secreted be the sebaceous glands. Emotional stress and hormone imbalances can increase the flow of sebum. 44. Absorption: some ingredients can be absorbed by the outer layers of the skin, but very few ingredients can penetrate the epidermis. Nutrition 45. There are 6 classes of nutrients that the body needs: carbs, fats, proteins, vitamins, minerals, and water. 46. Food groups: grains, vegetables, fruits, milk, & meat, poultry, fish & beans, 47. Vitamin A: supports overall health of the skin & aids in the health, function, and repair of skin cells. 48. Vitamin C: an important substance needed for the proper repair of the skin and tissues. Aids in & accelerates the skins healing processes. 49. Vitamin D: enables the body to properly absorb and use calcium, needed for proper bone development and maintenance. Promotes rapid healing of skin. 50. Vitamin E: helps protect the skin from harmful effects of the suns UV light.

Bones of the skull

Divided in two parts: • Cranium • Facial skeleton Made up of eight bones: • Occipital bone :back of the skull • Parietal bones: forms the sides and top of the cranium. (two) • Frontal bone: forms the forehead. • Temporal bones: forms the sides of the head in the ear region. • Ethmoid bone: light, spongy bone between the eye sockets. • Sphenoid bone: joins all of the bones of the cranium together. 14. The heart is a muscular, cone shaped organ that keeps the blood moving within the circulatory system. a. Atrium: upper thin walled chamber through which blood is pumped to the ventricles. There's a left and right one. b. Ventricle: lower, thick walled chamber that receives blood from the atrium. 15. Integumentary system: consists of the skin and its accessory organs, such as the oil and sweat glands, sensory receptors, hair, and nails. Integument means "natural covering".

Chapter 24 Makeup

Foundation: aka base makeup, is a tinted cosmetic used to cover or even out the coloring of the skin. Can be used to conceal dark spots, blemishes, and other imperfections. Comes in liquid, stick, and cream forms. One of the newest tends, mineral makeup, is a powder form of foundation. 49. Color primer is applied to skin to cancel out and help disguise skin discoloration. They are available in a variety of colors: green, lavender, amber, and sometimes other colors. Green helps disguise redness in skin color, lavender reduce sallow skin appearance, and amber helps cover dark purplish colors like brushing and dark eye circles. 50. Liquid foundations, aka water based foundations, are mostly water but obtain contain an emollient such as mineral oil or silicone. Used for lighter coverage and for oily and combination types. They dry quickly and produce a matte finish. 51. Cream foundation, aka oil based foundations, is a considerably thicker product and is often sold in a jar or tin. Mayor may not contain water. Provide a heavier coverage and are intended for dry skin types. Produce a shinier appearance. 52. Primer: used after cleansing and moisturizing the skin or as a moisturizer. Provides a smoother surface to apply makeup. 53. Line of demarcation: obvious line where foundation starts or stops. 54. A concealer can be worn alone, or with foundation if blended and chosen correctly. Concealers are a thick, heavy type of foundation used to hide dark eye circles, dark splotches, and other imperfections. They contain more talc or pigment for heavier coverage. 55. Cream foundation is usually applied with a sponge and then blended. Liquid foundation is often applied to the skin in small dots across the face and then blended quickly with sponge. 56. Face powder: a cosmetic powder, sometimes tinted or scented, that is used to add a matte or non-shiny finish to the face. Helps to absorb excess oil and minimizes the shine of oily skin. Used to set the foundation. 57. Cheek color: aka blush, is used primarily to add a natural looking glow to the cheeks, but can also be used to add a little extra color to the face. Comes in powder, gel, and cream forms. 58. Lip color: aka lipstick or lip gloss, is a paste like cosmetic used to change or enhance the color of the lips. Available in cream, gloss, pencil, gel, and stick form. 59. Lip liner: colored pencil used to outline the lips and to keep the lipstick from bleeding into small lines around the mouth. 60. Eye shadow: cosmetics applied on the eyelids to accentuate or contour them. Come in a variety of finishes, including metallic, matte, frost, shimmer, or dewy. A darker shade of eye shadow makes the natural color of the eye appear lighter, while a lighter shade makes the iris appear deeper. 61. A base color is generally a medium tone used to cover redness and skin discoloration on the lid. A contour color is a contour in any finish that is deeper and darker than client's skin tone. Used to minimize a specific area, to create contour in a crease, or define the eyelash line. 62. Eyeliner: a cosmetic used to outline and emphasize the eyes. Consist of wax (paraffin) or hardened oil base with a variety of additives to create color. 63. Eyebrow pencils: aka eyebrow shadows, are used to add color and shape to the eyebrows, usually after twee zing or waxing. 64. Mascara: a cosmetic preparation used to define, darken, and thicken the eyelashes. Available in liquid, cake, and cream form. Mascara brushes can be straight or curved, with fine or thick brushes. The most popular color are shades of brown and black. 65. Eye makeup removers are special preparations for removing eye makeup. 66. Greasepaint: a heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes. Cake makeup, aka pancake makeup, is a heavy coverage makeup pressed in a compact and applied to the face with a moistened cosmetic sponge. 67. Powder brush: large, soft brush used to apply powder and for blending, edges of color. Blush brush: Smaller, more tapered version of the powder brush, excellent for applying cheek color. Concealer brush: usually narrow and firm with a flat edge, used to apply concealer around eyes or over blemishes. 68. Lip brush: similar to concealer brush, with a more tapered edge, may be used to apply concealer or lip color. Eye shadow brush: Available in a variety of sizes and finishes. The more diffused the more blended it will be. Eyeliner brush: Fine, tapered, firm bristles, used to apply liquid liner or shadow to the eyes. Angled brush: Firm, thin bristles, angled for ease of application of shadow to the eyebrows or shadow liner to the eyes. Lash and brow brush: Comb like brush used to remove excess mascara on lashes or to comb brows into place. Tweezers: Available in metal or plastic, used to remove excess facial hair. Eyelash curler: Metal or plastic device used to give lift and upward curl to upper lashes. Pencil sharpener: Used before each application of eye or lip pencil to ensure hygienic application. 69. Makeup color theory: primary: colors that can't be obtained from a mixture. Yellow, red, and blue. Secondary: two primary colors in a mixture. Tertiary: mixing equal amounts of a secondary color to its neighboring primary color. Complementary: primary and secondary colors directly opposite of each other. Warm colors range from yellow and gold through oranges, red oranges, most reds, and even some yellow greens. Cool colors suggest coolness and are dominated by blues, greens, violets, and blue reds. 70. Complementary colors for blue eyes: orange, since it contains red and yellow, shadows with any of these colors will make eyes look bluer. Complementary colors for green eyes are red, but because it can make the eyes look bloodshot, brown based reds or other options next to red is recommended. Brown eyes are neutral, and any color can be used. Recommended choices are greens, blues, grays, and silvers. 71. Band lashes, aka strip lashes, are eyelash hairs on a strip that are applied with adhesive to the natural lash line. Individual lashes are separate artificial lashes that are applied to the eyelid one at a time. Eyelash adhesive is used to make artificial lashes adhere or stick to the natural lash line. 72. Individual eyelash application is also known as eye tabbing.

Chapter 8 Skin Disorders & Diseases ((refer to flashcards as well))

Lesion: a mark on the skin that may indicate an injury or damage that changes the structure of tissues or organs. 52. Primary lesions: lesions that are a different color than the color of skin and/or lesions that are raised above the surface of the skin. 53. Bulla: a large blister containing watery fluid, similar to a vesicle but larger. 54. Cyst: closed, abnormally developed sac that contains fluid, pus, semi fluid, or morbid matter, above/below the skin. 55. Macule: any flat spot or discoloration on the skin such as a freckle or red spot. 56. Nodule: a solid bump larger than .4 inches that can be easily felt. 57. Tubercle: an abnormal, rounded, solid bump above, within, or under the skin. Larger than a papule. 58. Tumor: an abnormal mass varying in size, shape, and color. 59. Vesicle: small blister or sac containing clear fluid, lying within or just beneath the epidermis (poison ivy or oak). 60. Wheal: an itchy, swollen lesion that only lasts a few hours. Caused by as blow or scratch. 61. Secondary lesions: characterized by piles of material on the skin surface, or by depression in the skin surface. 62. Crust: dead cells that form over a wound while it's healing. Accumulation of sebum and pus sometimes mixed with epidermal material. (Scab) 63. Excoriation: a skin sore caused by scratching or scraping. 64. Fissure: a crack in the skin that penetrates the dermis. (Chapped lips/hands) 65. Keloid: thick scar resulting from excessive growth of fibrous tissue. 66. Scale: any thin dry or oily plate of epidermal flakes (dandruff) 67. Scar: aka cicatrix, lightly raised mark on the skin formed after an injury or lesion of the skin has healed. 68. Ulcer: an open lesion on the skin or mucous membrane of the body accompanied by loss of skin depth and possibly weeping of fluids or pus. 69. Hypertrophy: abnormal growth of the skin. 70. Keratoma: aka callus, is an acquired, superficial, thickened patch of epidermis. Caused by continued, repeated pressure/friction on any part of the skin. 71. Mole: small brownish spot or blemish on the skin, ranging in color. 72. Skin tag: small brown colored or flesh colored outgrowth of the skin. Occur more frequently on the neck. 73. Verruca: aka wart, is a hypertrophy of the papillae & epidermis. Caused by a virus and is infectious. 74. Basal Cell Carcinoma: the most common, yet least severe type of cancer. 75. Squamous Cell Carcinoma: more serious than basal cell, and often characterized by scaly red papules or nodules. 76. Malignant Melanoma: the third and most serious form of skin cancer characterized by black or dark brown patches on the skin that may appear uneven in texture, jagged or raised. 77. ABCDE Cancer Checklist is used to spots signs of change in existing moles. (Asymmetry, Border, Color, Diameter, Evolving) 78. Retention hyperkeratosis: hereditary tendency for acne prone skin to retain dead cells in the follicle, forming an obstruction that clogs follicles and exacerbates inflammatory acne lesion such as papules/pustules. 79. Anaerobic: bacteria unable to survive in the presence of oxygen. 80. Noncomedogenic: a product that has been designed and proven not to clog the follicles. 81. Intrinsic factors: skin aging factors we have no control over. 82. Extrinsic factors: primarily environmental factors that contribute to aging and the appearance of aging. 83. Free radical: unstable molecules that cause biochemical aging. 84. UVA: aging rays that are deep penetrating rays that can even go through a glass window. Weaken collagen and elastin fibers. 85. UVB: burning rays that cause sunburn, tanning, and majority of skin cancers. Penetrate at the base of the epidermis. 86. 80-85% of aging is due to sun rays. 87. Allergic Contact Dermatitis: aka ACD, occurs when the person develops an allergy to an ingredient or chemical, usually caused by repeated skin contact with the chemical. 88. Sensitization: an allergic reaction created by repeated exposure to a chemical or a substance. 89. Irritant Contact Dermatitis: aka ICD, occurs when irritating substances temporarily damage the epidermis. Unlike allergic contact dermatitis, it is usually not chronic.

Chapter 27 Nail Tips & Wraps

Nail Tips: plastic, pre molded nails shaped from a tough polymer made from acrylonitrile butadiene styrene also known as ABS, plastic. 2. Overlay: a layer of any kind of nail enhancement product that is applied over the natural nail and tip application for added strength. 3. In addition to the basic materials on your manicuring table you will need: an abrasive board, buffer block, tip adhesive, tip cutter, nail dehydrator, and a variety of nail tips. 4. Position stop: the point where the free edge of the natural nail meets the tip, is where the tip is adhered to the nail. 5. The bonding agent used to secure the nail tip to the natural nail is called the nail tip adhesive. 6. Nail wrap resin: used to coat and secure fabric wraps to the natural nail and nail tip. Made from cyanoacrylate, a specialized acrylic monomer that has excellent adhesion to the natural nail plate and polymerizes in seconds. 7. Fabric wrap: a nail wrap made of silk, linen or fiberglass. The most popular type of nail wrap because of their durability. 8. Silk wraps: made from a thin natural material with a tight weave that becomes transparent when wrap resin is applied. Lightweight with a smooth appearance. 9. Linen wraps: made from closely woven heavy material. Much thicker and bulkier that any other wrap fabrics. Nail adhesives don't penetrate linen as easily as silk or fiberglass. A colored polish must be used to cover it completely for its opaque. Considered to be the strongest wrap fabric. 10. Fiberglass wraps: made from very thin synthetic mesh with a loose weave. Makes it easy to use and allows the wrap resin to penetrate, which improves adhesion. Not as durable as linen or silk. 11. Paper wraps: temporary nail wraps made of very thin paper. One of the first materials used to create wraps. Don't have the strength and durability of fabric wraps. 12. Wrap resin accelerator: aka activator acts as the dryer that speeds up the hardening process of the wrap resin or adhesive overlay. 13. Nail wraps must have consistent maintenance after initial application. 14. Maintenance: term used for when a nail enhancement needs to be serviced after two weeks or more from initial application of nail enhancement product. Accomplishes 2 goals: allows cosmetologist to apply the enhancement product onto new growth commonly referred to as fill or back fill. It also allows the cosmetologist to structurally correct the nail to ensure its strength, shape and durability, referred to as re-balance. 15. Stress strip: strip of fabric cut to 1/8 inch in length and applied to the weak point of the nail during the 4 week fabric wrap maintenance in order to repair or strengthen a weak point in a nail enhancement. 16. Repair patch: piece of fabric cut to completely cover a crack or break in the nail. 17. Nail wraps are removed by immersing the entire enhancement in acetone. 18. 2 week maintenance on fabric wrap: clean nails, push back eponychium, buff surface of exposed nail lightly to remove shine. Remove dust and apply a small amount of resin onto the new growth. Spray accelerator, and apply a second coat of resin to entire nail plate to strengthen and reseal the wrap. Apply a second coat of accelerator. Use medium fine abrasive over surface of nail wrap to remove any high spots/imperfections. Apply nail oil and buff with a fine buffer (350 grit or higher). Remove oil and polish. 19. 4 week maintenance fabric wrap: clean, push back eponychium, lightly buff nail plate w/ a medium fine (240 grit) abrasive to remove shine. Remove dust and apply nail dehydrator to nails w/ a cotton tipped pusher. Cut a piece of fabric large enough to cover new growth and slightly overlap the old wrap. Apply resin to fill area and spread throughout new growth. Fit wrap over new growth and smooth. Apply another coat of resin and apply accelerator. Apply 2nd coat of resin to regrowth area. Apply 2nd coat of accelerator. Apply a thin coat of resin to entire nail to strengthen and seal wrap. Apply accelerator. Use medium grit (240) abrasive over surface of nail to remove imperfections. Apply nail oil and buff to a high shine. Apply hand lotion and massage hand & arm. Remove traces of oil and polish.

Chapter 10 Nail Disorders & Diseases (Refer to flashcards for terms)

Nail disorder: a condition caused by injury or disease of the nail unit. 18. A client with any signs of infection, swelling, inflammation, etc should not have services performed and referred to a doctor.

Chapter 28 Monomer Liquid & Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements

Nail enhancements based on mixing together liquids and powders are commonly referred to as acrylics. 2. Polymer powders can come in pink, white, clear, and natural. 3. Monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements, aka sculptured nails, are created by combining monomer liquid, a chemical liquid mixed with polymer powder to form the nail enhancement. 4. Mono means one & "mer" stands for units, so monomer is one unit called a molecule. Poly means many, so polymer means a substance formed by combining many small molecules into very long chain-like structures. 5. Monomer liquid & polymer powder can be applied in three basic ways: on the natural nail as an overlay, over a nail tip, and on a form to create a nail extension. 6. A natural, hair and pointed, round, or oval application brush is the best brush to use for applying these products. 7. There are three versions of monomer liquid used in the industry: ethyl methacrylate (EMA), methyl methacrylate (MMA) or odorless monomer liquid. Industry standards are the EMA and odorless liquid. MMA is not recommended for use on nails & not legal according to State Board in some states. 8. Polymerization: aka curing/hardening, a chemical reaction that creates polymers. Trillions of monomers are linked together to create long chains. This long chains create tiny beads of polymer powder used to create certain types of nail enhancements. 9. Catalysts in monomer liquid helps control the set up or hardening of the combination of liquid & polymer powder by energizing & activating the initiators. 10. Initiators start a chain reaction that leads to the creation of very long polymer chains. The initiators found in the powder will spring into action and cause monomer liquids to permanently link together into long polymer chains once activated. 11. Creating polymers can be thought of as a chain reaction, aka polymerization reaction, a process that joins together monomers to create long polymer chains. 12. The initiator in polymer is called benzyl peroxide (BPO). It is the same ingredient used in over the counter acne medicine, but with a different purpose in nail enhancements. BPO is used to start the chain reaction that leads to curing/hardening of the nail enhancement. 13. Some monomers require more BPO than others, and it is recommended to use the polymer powder designed for the monomer to prevent service breakdown, or a skin irritation to your client. 14. Liquid & Powder supplies include: monomer liquid, polymer powder, nail dehydrator(removes surface moisture & tiny amounts of oil left on the nail plate that can block adhesion), nail primer(used to help adhere enhancements to the natural nail), abrasives(medium grit 180-240), nail forms(placed under the free edge & used to extend the nail enhancement), nail tips, dampen dish(must have narrow opening to prevent evaporation of liquid), nailbrush, safety eye wear, dust masks, and protective gloves. 15. Monomer Liquid Bead Ratio: 1 part liquid + 1 part polymer powder = dry bead, 1.5 parts monomer + 1 part polymer powder = medium bead, 2 parts monomer + 1 part polymer powder = wet bead. The mix ratio ensures proper set & maximum durability of the nail enhancement. 16. Acid based primers (meth-acrylic acid) were widely used in the industry. Since they are corrosive to the skin and dangerous to eyes, acid-free and nonacid primers were developed. 17. Store monomer and powder products in covered containers. Store all primers & liquids separate from each other in a cool, dark area. Do not store near heat. Never save used monomer that has been removed from the original container. Pour any leftovers in an absorbent paper towel and place in a plastic bag. 18. Regular maintenance of nail enhancements helps prevent them from lifting or cracking. Proper maintenance must be performed every two to three weeks, depending on how fast the client's nails grow. 19. The apex, aka arch, is the area of the nail that has all the strength. Having strength in this area allows the base of nail, sidewalls, and tip to be thin, yet leaves the nail strong enough to resist frequent chipping or breaking. Located in center of nail and visible no mater where you view the nail. 20. Stress area is where the natural nail grows beyond the finger and becomes the free edge. This area needs strength to support the extension. The sidewall is the area on the side of the nail plate that grows free of its attachment to the nail fold & where the extension leaves the natural nail. 21. The nail extension underside is the actual underside of the nail extension. It can jut straight out or may dip, depending on the nail style. This should be even, matched on each nail. The thickness of the nail enhancement should be rather thin. 22. The C curve of the nail enhancement depends on the C curve of the natural nail. In a salon, 35% C curve is the average. The top and bottom side should match perfectly. 23. For liquid and powder enhancements removal, soak in acetone or manufacturer's removal solution, remove enhancement, and complete service. 24. Odorless monomer liquid & polymer powder products are nail enhancement products with little odor. These products don't necessarily have the same chemistry as all other monomer liquid and powders. Odorless products must be used with a dry mix ratio (equal parts of monomer and powder). Odorless products harden more slowly and create an inhibition layer. Once hardened this can be removed with alcohol, acetone, etc.

Chapter 9 Nail Structure & Growth

Nail: aka onyx is the hard protective plate composed mainly of keratin, the same fibrous protein found in skin & hair. Part of the integumentary system. 2. The natural nail unit is composed of several major parts: the nail plate, nail bed, matrix, nail cuticle, eponychium, hyponychium, specialized ligaments & nail folds. 3. Nail plate: hardened keratin plate that sits on & covers nail bed. Relatively porous & will allow water to pass through. 4. Nail bed: portion of living skin that supports the nail plate as it grows towards free edge. Supplied with blood vessels and attached to the nail plate by a thin layer of tissue called the bed epithelium. 5. Matrix: the area where the nail plate cells are formed; composed of matrix cells that produce the nail plate cells. Contains nerves, lymph, & blood vessels. As long as it is healthy, it will create new nail plate cells. Under the nail fold @ the base of the nail plate. 6. Lunula: Visible part of the matrix that extends from underneath the living skin. Whitish, half-moon shape @ base of nail. Every nail has one, but may be hidden. 7. Growth & appearance of the nails can be affected by poor health, nail disorder/disease, or any injury to the matrix. 8. Cuticle: dead, colorless tissue attached to the natural nail plate. Sticky & difficult to remove from nail plate. 9. Eponychium: living skin at the base of the natural nail plate that covers the matrix area. Often confused with the cuticle. This is not to be cut at any circumstances. 10. Hyponychium: slightly thickened layer of skin that lies between the fingertip and free edge. Forms a barrier that prevents microorganisms from entering the nail bed. 11. Specialized ligaments: tough band of fibrous tissue. Bone. 12. Nail folds: folds of normal skin that surround the nail plate. Form nail grooves which are the slits and furrows on the sidewall. The sidewall, aka lateral nail fold, is the fold of skin overlapping the side of nail. 13. Normal, healthy nails can grow in a variety of shapes depending on the shape of the matrix. A longer matrix will give a thicker nail, curved matrix a curved free edge. No product or procedure can make the nail plate grow thicker. Toenails are thicker & harder than fingernails because the matrix is longer in toenails. 14. Nail shapes: Concave, convex, square, angular, narrow, fan, trapezoid, olive, date, acorn, flat/arched, circumflex, tubular, and roofed. 15. Average rate of n ail growth is 1/10 of an inch per month. Nail growth rate is fastest on the middle finger & slowest on the thumb. (Varies today) Toenails grow slower than fingernails. 16. Replacement of natural fingernails take 4-6 months, toenails take 9 months to a year.

Chapter 5 Infection Control: Principles and Practices

OSHA: The Occupational Safety and Health Administration was created as part of the U.S. Department of Labor to regulate and enforce safety and health standards to protect employees in the workplace. 2. Both federal and state laws require that manufacturers supply a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for all products sold. The MSDS contains information compiled by the manufacturer about product safety, including the names of hazardous ingredients, safe handling and use procedures, precautions to reduce the risk of accidental harm or overexposure and flammability warnings. 3. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) registers all types of disinfectants sold and used in the United States. 4. Infection control: methods used to eliminate or reduce the transmission of infectious organisms. 5. Proper decontamination can prevent the spread of disease caused by exposure to potentially infectious materials on an items surface. a. Decontamination Method 1: Cleaning and then disinfecting with an appropriate EPA registered disinfectant b. Decontamination Method 2: Cleaning and then sterilizing. 6. Sterilization: the process that completely destroys all microbial life, including spores. 7. Quaternary ammonia compounds (QUATS) are disinfectants that are very effective when used properly in the salon. Usually disinfect implements in minutes.

Chapter 16 Haircutting

Reference points: mark where the surface of the head changes, such as the ears, jaw line, occipital bone, or apex. 2. Parietal ridge: widest area of the head, starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown. 3. Occipital bone: the bone that protrudes at the base of the skull. 4. Apex: highest point on the top of the head. Easily located by placing a comb flat on the top of the head. 5. Guidelines: a section of hair that determines the length the hair will be cut. Located either at the perimeter (outer lie) or the interior (inner line) of the cut. First section cut when creating a shape. • Stationary: does not move • Traveling: moves as the haircut progresses. 6. Texturizing shears: remove bulk from hair. Also known as thinning shears. 7. Cast shears: made by a process whereby molten steel is poured into a mold. 8. Forged shears: made by a process of working metal to a finished shape by hammering or pressing. The metal is heated to temperatures between 2100 -2300 degrees. Creates a more durable shear. 9. Cutting over your fingers: used most often when cutting uniform or increasing layers. 10. Cutting below fingers: used when cutting a blunt haircut or a heavier graduated haircut. 11. Cutting palm to palm: used when cutting with a vertical or diagonal cutting line. 12. Notching creates a chunkier effect in the hair.

Chapter 25 Manicuring

Scope of Practice (SOP): a list of services that you are legally allowed to perform in your specialty in your state. 20. Micro trauma: the act of causing tiny unseen openings in the skin that can allow entry by pathogenic microbes. 21. The four types of nail technology tools you will incorporate into your services include: equipment, implements, materials, professional cosmetic nail products. 22. Equipment includes all permanent tools that aren't implements that are used to perform nail services (manicure table, adjustable lamp, cosmetologists & client chairs, gloves, finger bowls, disinfection container, clients arm cushion, service cushion*, gauze/cotton wipes, trash containers, supply tray*, nail dryer*, electric hand/foot mitts*, terry cloth mitts*, paraffin bath*) 23. Implements are tools used to perform your services & are either reusable or disposable. Reusable or multi-use implements are generally stainless steel for proper cleaning & disinfection after use. Disposable or single use implements can't be reused because of the inability to clean & disinfect them. 24. Reusable implements: Metal pusher-used to scrape cuticle from nail plate, Nippers-used to carefully trim away dead skin around nails, tweezers-used to lift small bits of debris from nail plate, retrieving & placing nail art, removing implements from disinfectant containers, & etc. Nail clippers- shorten the free edge quickly & efficiently. 25. Disposable implements: Brushes & Applicators (unless otherwise stated), wooden pusher- used to remove cuticle from nail plate, clean under free edge, or to apply products. Nail brush (unless otherwise stated)-used in many ways during nail services such as hand washing or removing debris, and scrubbing implements. Application brush-used to apply oils, nail polish or nail treatments. (An exception is brushes used in products that are not capable of harboring or supporting the growth of pathogenic microbes such as alcohol, nail polish, monomers, and polymers, UV gels, nail primers, dehydrators, bleaches, etc). 26. Materials & supplies used during a manicure are designed to be single use & must be replaced after each client. These include files & buffers, 2 or 3 way buffers, single use or terry cloth towels, gauze, cotton balls, plastic backed pads, plastic/metal spatulas. 27. Professional Cosmetic products: soap, polish remover (acetone/non-acetone), nail creams, lotions, & oils, cuticle removers, nail bleach, colored polish, enamel, lacquer, varnish, base coat, nail hardener, top coat, hand creams &lotions, nail conditioners, & sunscreen. These are to be used properly and according to MFD when available. 28. Basic Mani: Remove polish, shape nails, soak, dry, put product on cotton over trash, apply over cuticle, push back eponychium, clean under free edge, remove residue, apply cuticle oil & buff, apply lotion & massage, clean nail of oil, polish -3 strokes. 29. Basic Nail shapes: Square-Straight across, Squoval-square yet rounded off at edges, Round- slightly tapered, Oval- similar to squoval w/even more rounded edges, Pointed-tapered & longer than usual to enhance and emphasize slender appearance of hands. May be weaker and break more easily. 30. When choosing a nail color you want to compliment skin tone, coordinate with outfit, or let the client choose. 31. Applying polish: Base coat, 2 coats of color, Top coat. 32. Men usually prefer round nail shapes. They also prefer clear coats, or a dull satin covering or simply just a buffing. 33. Massage is the manipulation of the soft tissues of the body. General movements are: Suffrage (gliding), Petrissage (kneading), Tapotement (rapid tapping), Vibration (trembling/shaking), & Friction (manipulating one layer over the other). The massage is performed after the basic manicure before polish application traditionally. 34. Spa manicures may include massage & exfoliation, theme manicures, aromatherapy, and or paraffin wax treatments. 35. Nail art techniques include: freehand, airbrush, glue-on, 3D ranging from simple to complex & from portrait to modern design.

Chapters 23 Facials

Skin analysis is a very important part of the facial treatment because it determines what type of skin the client has, the condition of the skin, and what type of treatment the clients skin needs. 2. A health screening form is used to determine any contraindications that might prohibit certain skin treatments. 3. Contraindications: conditions that require avoiding certain treatment procedures or products to prevent side effects. 4. The main contraindications to look for in a health screening: isotretinoin drugs (Retin A), pregnancy, metal bone pins, pacemakers, allergies, seizures/epilepsy, oral steroids, autoimmune diseases, diabetes, and blood thinners. 5. Any skin abnormalities should be referred to a physician for treatment prior to any facial service. 6. Alopecic: lack of lipids, and describes skin that doesn't produce enough sebum, indicated by an absence of pores. Also known as dry skin. 7. Dehydration: lack of moisture in the skin. May be flaky or dry looking with small, fine lines and w wrinkles. 8. Oily skin that produces too much sebum will have large pores, and the skin may appear shiny or greasy. Pores may be clogged from dead cells building up in the hair follicle, or may contain open comedones (blackheads) which are follicles impacted with solidifies sebum and dead cell buildup. Difference between an open and closed comedone is the size of the ostium, with an open comedo having a large ostium, and a closed comedy having a small one. 9. The presence of pimples in oily areas indicate acne. Acne is considered a skin type because the tendency to develop acne is hereditary. Acne is a disorder in which hair follicles become clogged, resulting in infection of the follicle with redness and inflammation. Acne bacteria are anaerobic, meaning they can't survive in the presence of oxygen. 10. Most types of hyperpigmentation, or dark splotches of color, are caused by sun exposure or hormone imbalances. 11. Sensitive skin has a thin, red-pink look. Skin will turn red easily, and easily inflamed by some skin care products. Rosacea is a chronic hereditary disorder that can be indicated by constant or frequent facial blushing. A person with Rosacea often has dilated capillaries, telangiectasis (distended or dilated surface blood vessels aka spider veins), and couperose which are areas of skin with distended capillaries and diffuse redness. 12. Cleansers are designed to clean the surface of the skin and to remove makeup. There are two types: cleansing milks and foaming cleansers. Cleansing milks are non-foaming lotion cleansers designed to cleanse dry and sensitive skin types to remove makeup. Must be removed with a dampened facial sponge, soft cloth, or cotton pad. 13. Foaming cleansers are cleansers containing surfactants (detergents) which can cause the product to foam and rinse off easily. Generally form combination or oilier skin types. 14. Toners: aka fresheners or astringents, are lotions that help rebalance the pH and remove remnants of cleanser from the skin. 15. Exfoliants: products that help bring about exfoliation, the removal of excess dead cells from the skin surface. Removing dead cells from the surface of the skin allows the skin to look smoother and clearer. 16. Mechanical exfoliants: products used to physically remove dead cell buildup. Gommages, aka roll off masks, are peeling creams that are rubbed off of the skin, and microdermabrasion scrubs, are scrubs that contain aluminum oxide crystals, along with other granular scrubs, are examples of mechanical exfoliants. 17. Chemical exfoliants: products that contain chemicals that either loosen or dissolve dead cell buildup. They are either used for a short time or combined in a moisturizer. Popular exfoliation chemicals are alpha hydroxy acids; these are gentle, naturally occurring acids that remove dean skin cells by dissolving the bonds and intercellular cement between cells. 18. Salon AHA exfoliants, aka peels, contain larger concentrations of AHA, usually around 20-30%. They should never be used unless the client has been using 10% AHA products at home for at least 2 weeks prior. 19. Enzyme peels, aka keratolytic enzymes or protein-dissolving agents, are a type of chemical exfoliant that works by dissolving keratin protein in the surface cells of the skin. 20. There are two basic types of keratolytic enzyme peels. Cream type and a powder that is mixed with water. 21. Proper exfoliation may improve the appearance of the skin in the following ways: fetuses clogged pores, promotes skin smoothness, increases moisture content and hydration, reduces hyperpigmentation, decreases uneven skin tone, eliminates or softens wrinkles and fine lines, and increases elasticity. 22. Moisturizers: products that help increase the moisture content of the skin surface, and can help diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They are basically mixtures of humectants (hydrators/water binding agents that attract water) and emollients (oily or fatty ingredients that prevent moisture from leaving the skin). Moisturizers for dry skin are often in the form of a heavier cream with more emollients. 23. Broad spectrum sunscreens protect against both UVA and UVB light. A sun protection factor (SPF) rating of 15 or higher is considered to be adequate strength for daily use. SPF measures how long someone can be exposed to the sun without burning. Sunscreens are available in lotion, fluid, and cream forms. Lotions are suitable for combination skin, fluids for oily skin, and creams for dry skin. 24. Serums: concentrated products that generally contain higher concentrations of ingredients designed to penetrate the skin and treat various skin conditions. Ampoules are individual doses of serum, sealed in small vials. 25. Massage creams: lubricants used to make the skin slippery during massage. They often contain oils or petrolatum. If message cream is used during a facial treatment, it must be removed thoroughly before any other product can entrants the skin. 26. Masks: aka masques, are concentrated treatment products often composed of mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, botanical extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish the skin. 27. Clay based masks are oil absorbing cleansing masks that have an exfoliation effect and an astringent effect on oily and combination skin, making large pores temporarily appear smaller. May have additional beneficial ingredients for soothing, or may include antibacterial ingredients like sulfur for acne prone skin. 28. Cream masks contain oils and emollients as well as humectants, and have a strong moisturizing effect. They don't dry on the skin like clay masks do, and are often used to moisturize dry skin. Gel masks can be used for sensitive or dehydrated skin, and they don't dry hard. Often contain hydrators and soothing ingredients to plump surface cells, with moisture making the skin look more supple and more hydrated. 29. Alginate masks are often seaweed based. They come in powder form and are mixed with water or sometimes serum. They dry to form a rubberized texture. Treatment cream, which is a specialty product designed to facilitate change in skin appearance or as a serum applied under alginate masks. 30. Paraffin wax masks are specially prepared facial masks containing paraffin and other beneficial ingredients. Are applied to allow the creams ingredients to penetrate more deeply into the surface layers of the skin. 31. Modulate masks contain special crystals of gypsum, a plaster like ingredient. They are mixed with cold water immediately before application and applied about ¼ inch thick. 32. Gauze is a thin open meshed fabric of loosely woven cotton. Masks that tend to run can be applied over a layer of gauze, the gauze holds the mask in place while allowing the ingredients to seep through to benefit the skin. 33. Massage: the manual or mechanical manipulation of the body by gently pinching, kneading, tapping, and other movements to increase metabolism and circulation, to promote absorption, and to relieve pain. Cosmetologists massage their clients to beep keep the facial skin healthy and the facial muscles firm. 34. The direction of movement is always from the insertion of the muscle toward its origin. The insertion is the portion of the muscle at the movable attachment (attached to movable bone or joint). The origin is the portion of the muscle at the fixed attachment (immovable section of the skeleton). Massaging in the wrong direction could result in a loss of resiliency and sagging of the skin and muscles. 35. Effleurage: light, continuous stroking moving applied in a slow, rhythmic manner with the fingers. No pressure is used. The palms work the large areas and the cushions of the fingers work the small areas. 36. Petrissage: kneading movement performed by lifting, squeezing, and pressing the tissue with a light, firm, pressure. Offers deeper stimulation to the muscles, nerves, and skin glands, and improves circulation. Fulling is a form of petrissage in which the tissue is grasped, gently lifted and spread out. Mainly used for massaging the arms. 37. A facial steamer heats and produces warm steam that can be focused on the clients face or other areas of the skin. Steaming the skin helps soften the tissues, making it more accepting of moisturizers and product treatments. Also helps softens follicle accumulation making them easier to extract. 38. A brushing machine is a rotating electric appliance with interchangeable brushes that can be attached to the rotating head. Brushing is a form of mechanical exfoliation, and usually administered after or during steam. 39. Galvanic and high frequency treatment are types of electrotherapy, which is the use of electrical currents to treat the skin. There are several contraindications for electrotherapy. They should never be administered on heart patients, clients with pacemakers, metal implants, pregnant clients, clients with epilepsy or seizures, clients who are afraid of electric current, and those with broken or open skin. 40. An electrode is an applicator for directing the electric current from the machine to the client's skin. High frequency machines only have one electrode. Galvanic machines have two positive electrodes called an anode, which has a red plug, and a negative electrode called a cathode which has a black plug. 41. Galvanic current accomplishes two tasks: desincrustation which is the softening and emulsifying hardened sebum stuck in follicles. Iontophoresis is the process of using galvanic current to enable water soluble products that contains ions to penetrate the skin. 42. Microcurrent: type of galvanic treatment using a very low level of electrical current. Has many applications in skin care and is best known for helping to tone the skin producing a lifting effect for aging skin that lacks elasticity. 43. High frequency current, discovered by Nikolas Tesla, can be used to stimulate the blood flow and help products penetrate. Can also be applied after extraction or during treatments for acne prone skin because it has a germicidal effect. 44. Light therapy: using light exposure to treat conditions of the skin. There are several different types of light therapy utilizing various types of light. Infrared lamps have been used to heat the skin and increase blood flow. They have also been used for hair and scalp treatments. One type of light therapy is called a light emitting diode (LED) treatment. This treatment uses concentrated light that flashes very rapidly. They were originally developed to help with wound healing. In cosmetology LED machines are used cosmetically to minimize redness, warm lower level tissues, stimulate blood flow, and improve skin smoothness. Red lights are used to treat aging and redness, blue lights are used for acne prone skin. 45. Microdermabrasion: a type of mechanical exfoliation that involves shooting aluminum oxide or other crystals at the skin with a hand held device that exfoliate dead cells. 46. Facial treatments fall into one of the following categories: Preservative and Corrective. 47. Aromatherapy is the use of essential oils for beauty and health treatment.

Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp (Refer to flashcards for terms)

The Structure of Hair o Cuticle: Tough exterior layer of the hair. Surrounds inner layers and protects hair from damage. Responsible for creating shine and silky smooth feeling of hair. o Cortex: Middle layer of hair; responsible for hair strength and elasticity. 90% of the total weight comes from the cortex. o Medulla: Innermost layer of hair, often called pith or core; does not play a role in chemical texture services. (Missing in fine hair and baby hair) o pH: abbreviation used for potential hydrogen. Represents quantity of hydrogen ions, and measures acidity and alkalinity of a substance. o pH scale: 0-14 (pH of 7=neutral, below 7=acidic, above 7=alkaline) Natural pH of hair is between 4.5 and 5.5. o Chemical texturizers raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to swell and soften the hair. (Coarse, resistant hair requires a highly alkaline chemical solution. Porous, damaged, or chemically treated hair requires a less alkaline solution). o Hair is 90 percent protein. • Basic Building Blocks of Hair o Amino acids: compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen & sulfur. (COHNS) o Peptide bonds: aka end bonds, are chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end to end in long chains to form a polypeptide chain. o Polypeptide chains: long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds. o Keratin proteins: long, coiled polypeptide chains. o Side bonds: disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together. (Responsible for the elasticity & incredible strength of the hair. Altering these three types of side bonds is what makes wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, curl reforming 7 chemical relaxing possible) o Disulfide bonds: strong, chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in 2 adjacent protein chains are joined together. (Not broken by water but by extreme heat. Strongest & least bond accounting for 1/3 of hair's overall strength. o Salt bonds: weak, physical side bonds that result from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges (ionic bonds) broken by changes in pH, and reform when pH returns to normal. Many of these and account for 1/3 of hair strength. o Hydrogen bonds: weak, physical side bonds that result from the attraction between opposite electrical charges. (Easily broken by water or heat, but reform as the hair dries.) So many of them and count for 1/3 of overall hair strength. • Growth cycles of hair o Anagen Phase: Growth Phase o Catagen Phase: Brief transition period between growth and resting phases of hair follicle. Follicle canal shrinks and detaches from dermal papilla. Lasts from one to two weeks. o Telogen Phase: also known as resting phase, is the final phase in the hair cycle and lasts until the fully grown hair is shed. Lasts for three to six months. • Types of abnormal hair loss o Alopecia areata: an autoimmune disorder that causes the affected hair follicles to be mistakenly attacked by a person's own immune system. o Alopecia totalis: total scalp hair loss. o Alopecia universalis: complete body hair loss. o Postpartum alopecia: temporary hair loss experienced at the end of a pregnancy. • Minoxidil is a topical medication that is put on the scalp proven to stimulate hair growth.

Chapter 26 Pedicuring

The four types of nail technology tools for pedicure services are: equipment, implements, materials, & pedicure products. 37. Equipment for pedicures are pedicure station, pedicure stool & footrest, pedicure foot bath, pedicure carts, electric foot mitts*, terry cloth mitts* & paraffin bath* 38. The same implements in manicures are used in pedicures as well; however some are specific for use in pedicures. (Toenail clippers-larger than nail clippers w/curved or straight jaws, curette-small scoop shaped implement used for efficient removal of debris from nail folds, eponychium and hyponychium, nail rasp-metal implement w/grooved edge used for filing & smoothing the edges of nail plate, pedicure nail file, foot file aka paddle-used to smooth & reduce thicker areas of callus, & nipper-used to trim tags of dead skin). 39. Materials for pedicures: toe separators, pedicure slippers, gloves. 40. Professional Pedicure products: Soaks, scrubs, masks, pedicure lotions & creams, callus softeners. 41. Foot soaks: contain gentle soaps, moisturizers, & other additives to cleanse & soften skin. 42. Scrubs: gritty lotions massaged on foot & leg to remove dry, flaky skin & calluses. 43. Masks: concentrated treatment products composed of mineral clay's, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, extracts & other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, & nourish skin. 44. Foot lotions/creams: used to condition & moisturize. 45. Callus softeners: products used to soften & smooth thickened tissue. Applied directly to heels and over pressure point calluses. 46. When scheduling a pedicure service with female clients, warn them not to shave 48 hrs prior to prevent microscopic abrasions, or pathogenic microbe entry that may cause stinging, irritation, or infection. This is an important infection control policy. 47. Some improvements in the feet require more than one appointment, referred to as series pedicures. 48. Older people need foot care more than younger people. Never cut their tissues or push back their eponychium. Do not perform services on diabetics or those with circulatory issues w/out their physician's permission. Use caution when using message techniques on these types of conditions. 49. Reflexology: unique method of applying pressure with thumb and index fingers to the hands and feet, & has demonstrated health benefits. 50. Ensure proper ergonomics is used when performing manicure or pedicure services. * indicates optional items

Creative Capability

To enhance your creativity keep these guidelines in mind: • Don't be self- critical. • Don't look to others for motivation • Change your vocabulary. • Don't try to go it alone. 3. Goal setting: the identification of long and short term goals that help you decide what you want out of your life. There are two types of goals, long and short. a. Short Term: usually considered to be those you wish to accomplish in a year or less. b. Long term: measured in larger sections of time such as five years, ten years, or even longer. 4. Prioritize: ordering tasks on your to- do list from most important to least important. 5. Developing consistently good study habits is knowing where, when, and how to study. a. Where: establish a comfortable, quiet spot where you can study without interruption. b. When: start by estimating how much study time you need. Study when you feel most energetic and motivated. Practice effective time management. c. How: study just one section at a time. Make notes of key words. Test yourself on each section to ensure that you understand and remember the keep points of each section. 6. Ethics: the moral principles by which we live and work. You can practice ethics in the salon everyday by: a. Providing skilled and competent services. b. Being honest, courteous, and sincere. c. Avoiding sharing clients' private matters with others. d. Participating in continuing education and staying on track with new information, techniques, and skills. e. Giving clients accurate information about treatments and products. 7. Refer regularly to the following characteristics of a healthy, positive attitude to ensure that they match your self-description: a. Diplomacy b. Pleasing tone of voice c. Emotional stability d. Sensitivity e. Value and goals f. Receptivity g. Effective communication skills

Chapter 29 UV Gels

UV gels can also contain monomer liquids, but they rely mostly on a related form called an oligomer. An oligomer is a short chain of monomer liquids that is often thick, sticky, & gel like that is not long enough to be considered a polymer. Oligo means few. These are usually referred to as polymers. Oligomers are between liquid and solid. 26. Urethane acrylate and urethane methacrylate are the main ingredients used to create UV gel nail enhancements. The term, urethane refers to the type of starting material that is used to create the most common UV gel resins. 27. The family of urethane's is known for high abrasion resistance and durability. UV gel resins react when exposed to the UV light that is recommended for the gel. A chemical called a photo-initiator initiates the polymerization reaction. (It takes the combo of the resin, photo-initiator, and the proper curing lamp to cause the gel to cure). 28. Viscosity: the measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid and affects how the fluid flows. 29. UV gels fall under one-color method and two-color method. 30. Types of UV Gels: UV bonding (used to increase the adhesion to natural nail plate, similar to primer.) UV building (include any thick viscosity resin that allows the nail tech to build an arch and curve to the nail.) UV self-leveling (thinner in consistency allowing them to settle and level during application) Pigmented UV (building & self leveling gels that include color pigment. Used earlier in service to create art or traditional French manicure look) UV gel polish (very thin viscosity UV gel that is usually pigmented & packaged in a pot or polish bottle. Used as an alternative to traditional nail lacquers. Cure in UV light to dry) UV gloss gel (aka sealing gel, finishing gel, or shine gel is used over the finished UV gel application to create a high shine, in much the same way a top coat would be applied over colored polish. Don't require buffing and can be used on liquid and powder enhancements) 31. Inhibition layer: tacky surface left on the nail after a UV gel has cured. 32. Opacity: the amount of colored pigment concentration in a gel, making it more or less difficult to see through. 33. UV gel supplies: UV gel unit, brush, UV gel primer or bonding gel, UV gel, nail tips, nail adhesive, Nail cleanser/primer, abrasive files and buffers, cleansing solution, lint free cleansing wipes. 34. It is the clients or cosmetologist's discretion on whether or not to use gel nails versus liquid & powder. 35. Guidelines on using the proper UV gel: flat fingernails will need a UV building gel to help create an arch and curve. Fingernails with an arch present will need a self leveling UV gel. If your client breaks theirs enhancements often, a gel that uses fiberglass may be the best product for them. 36. UV lamp: aka UV light bulb is a special bulb that emits UV light to cure UV gel nail enhancements. Range from 4 watt to 9 watt. 37. UV light unit: aka UV light is a specialized electronic device that powers and controls UV lamps to cure UV gel nail enhancements. 38. Unit wattage: the measure of how much electricity the lamp consumes, but doesn't indicate how much light a UV light will emit. The most common UV lamp is a 9 watt. 39. The light unit has as much to do with the proper curing of the UV gel as the lamp. Not all light units are the same. 40. One advantage of gel polish is they don't dry, they cure. It will not smear nor leave imprints. It also doesn't thicken over time because the solvent doesn't evaporate. Solvent evaporation makes nil polish thicken and dry more slowly after a few months of opening it. To remove gel polish, you file the polish off. Soak off gel polish is removed by soaking in acetone for 5 to 10 minutes. 41. Gel nails must be maintained regularly depending on how fast the client's nails grow. 42. Hard UV gels aka traditional UV gels cannot be removed with a solvent and must be filed off natural nail. Soft or soak-able UV gels are removed by soaking in acetone.

Chapter 21 Haircoloring

Why People Color their Hair 57. Common reasons people color their hair: cover up/blend gray, enhance existing haircolor, create a fashion statement, correct unwanted tones in hair caused by environmental exposure, or to accentuate a particular haircut. 58. One of the most creative, challenging, and popular salon service is haircoloring. 59. Haircolor: professional industry coined term referring to artificial haircolor products and services. Hair color: refers to the natural color of hair. 60. Texture: diameter of an individual hair strand. Large: Coarse texture, Med: Medium texture, Small: fine texture 61. Density: # of hairs per square inch, range from thin to thick. 62. Porosity: hair's ability to absorb moisture. (Porous hair accepts haircolor faster) Degrees: Low (tight cuticle, chemical penetration difficulty, longer processing time) Average (cuticle slightly raised. Normal hair, average processing time) High (lifted cuticle, takes color quickly, color fades quickly) Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone 63. Three types of melanin in hair: Eumelanin (lends black and brown) Pheomelanin (gives blond and red) Mixed melanin (combo of natural hair color that contains both pheomelanin and eumelanin). 64. Contributing pigment: aka undertone, is the varying degrees of warmth exposed during a permanent color or lightening process. When lightening natural hair, the darker the natural level, the more intense the contributing pigment. 65. Level: unit of measurements used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color. 66. Level system: determines lightness or darkness of a hair color, 1 being the darkest, and 10 being the lightest. 67. Law of color is a system for understanding the color relationships. 68. Primary colors are pure or fundamental colors (red, yellow, blue) that cannot be created by combining other colors. All colors are created from these three primary colors. (Predominance of blue = cool colors, predominance of red and/or yellow = warm colors. Blue is strongest of the primary color & the only cool primary color. Can bring darkness & depth. Red is medium primary color. Adding red to blue based colors will make them lighter, adding red to yellow will darken color. Yellow is the weakest of primary colors. Adding yellow to other colors will lighten and brighten. 69. Secondary colors is a color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors. (Green, orange & violet) blue+yellow= green, red+yellow= orange, blue+red= violet 70. Tertiary colors is an intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and it neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts. (Blue-green, blue-violet, red violet, red-orange, yellow-orange, and yellow-green) Natural looking haircolor is made up of a combo if primary colors, secondary colors, and tertiary colors. 71. Complementary colors: primary &secondary colors positioned directly opposite each other on the color wheel. Neutralize each other (green hair=use red to balance, red hair=green to balance, blue hair=orange to balance, orange hair=blue to balance, yellow hair=violet to balance, violet hair=yellow to balance) 72. Tone: aka hue is the balance of color. (Warm tones look lighter than their actual level. These tones are golden, orange, red, and yellow) cool tones can look deeper than their actual level. These are blue, green, and violet. Natural tones are warm tones known as sandy or tan.) 73. Intensity: refers to strength of a color. Can be described as soft, medium, or strong. 74. Base color is the predominant tone of a color. Each color is identified by a number and a letter. 75. Artificial light affects your perception of color. Types of Haircolor 20) All permanent haircolor products & lighteners contain both a developer, or oxidizing agent, & an alkalizing ingredient. 21) Temporary Color: nonpermanent color whose large pigment molecules prevent penetration of the cuticle layer, allowing only a coating action that may be removed by shampooing. Semi-permanent: no-lift deposit only, last through several shampoos. Partially penetrate the hair shaft and stains cuticle layer. Demi permanent: aka no lift deposit only, formulated to deposit but not lighten color. Permanent: lightens and deposits color at the same time in a single process because they are more alkaline and usually mixed with a higher volume developer. 22) Natural haircolors, aka vegetable haircolors, are obtained from leaves or bark of plants. Don't lighten natural color. (i.e. henna) 23) Metallic haircolors, aka gradual haircolors contain metal salts that change haircolor gradually by progressive buildup & exposure to air creating a dull, metallic appearance. Historically marketed to men. 24) Hydrogen Peroxide developers: oxidizing agent that when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, it supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules & create a change in natural hair color. Have a pH between 2.5 and 4.5. 25) Volume: measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide. 26) A haircolor consultation is the most critical part of the color service. 27) A release statement's purpose is to explain to clients that there is a risk involved in any chemical service & that if the client's hair is in questionable condition, it may not withstand the requested chemical treatment. 28) Patch test: aka predisposition test is a test for identifying a possible allergy in a client. (Provided 24-48 hrs prior on the inside of the elbow or behind the ear). 29) Preliminary strand test: determines how the hair will react to the color formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair. Performed after the client is prepared for coloring service. 30) Single process haircoloring: lightens and deposits color in a single application. 31) Double process hair coloring: prelightening the hair and then toning. 32) Lighteners come in cream, oil, and powder form. Oil are the mildest while cream are strong enough for high lift blonding, yet gentle enough to be used on the scalp. 33) On the scalp lighteners can be used on the scalp due to their easy application. Off the scalp lighteners, aka quick lighteners can't be used on the scalp due to being strong fast acting lighteners. 34) Activators: aka boosters, protinators, or accelerators, are powdered persulfite salts added to haircolor to increase lightening ability. 35) When heat is used with lighteners, it softens the hair and makes it more fragile. Excessive heat increases rate of the reaction and can lift and crack the cuticle, breaking bonds within the cortex. 36) New growth: the part of hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been previously colored. 37) Toners: used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve pale, delicate colors. Require a double process application. 38) Special effects haircoloring: any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring. 39) Highlighting: involves coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades and the illusion of depth. 40) Reverse highlighting: aka lowlighting is the technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color. 41) There are three main methods for achieving highlights: cap technique, foil technique, and Baliage/free form technique. 42) Cap technique: involves pulling clean, dry hair strands through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook. 43) Foil technique: involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections, placing on foil, applying lightener or permanent haircolor, and then sealing in the foil for processing. 44) Baliage technique: (sometimes spelled balyage) aka free form, involves painting of a lightener directly on clean, dry hair. 45) Highlighting shampoos: prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo. Used when slight change in hair is desired or when client's hair processes quickly. Special Challenges in Haircolor/Corrective Solutions 46) Yellowed gray hair can be caused by the following factors: Smoking, Medication, Sun exposure and hairspray/styling aids. 47) Semi/Demi color for gray hair: 90-100% gray=desired level, 70-90%=equal parts desired & one level lighter, 50-70%-one level lighter than desired level, 30-50%=equals parts one & two levels lighter, 10-30%=two levels lighter than desired color Permanent color for gray: 90-100%=desired level, 70-90%=2 parts desired level & 1 part lighter level, 50-70%=equal parts. Desired and lighter level, 30-50%=2 parts lighter level & 1 part desired level, 10-30%=1 level lighter. 48) Presoftening: process of treating gray or resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color. 49) Damaged hair is characterized by rough texture, over porous condition, brittle and dry to the touch, susceptible to breakage, no elasticity, spongy and matted when wet, and color fades too quickly or grabs too dark. 50) Fillers: used to equalize porosity. Conditioner fillers recondition damaged over porous hair & equalize porosity so the hair accepts color evenly. Can be applied separately or immediately prior to color application. Color fillers equalize porosity & deposit color in one application to provide uniform contributing pigment on prelightened hair. 51) Haircolor tips for Redheads: to create warm coppery tones, use a red-orange base color. (RO,RG). To create hot reds, use red-violet/true red colors (R,RR,RV) 52) Haircolor tips for Brunettes: to avoid orange/brassy tones when lifting brown, Use cool blue base. To avoid brassy tones, don't lighten more than 2 levels above natural color. Add 1 oz of natural color to cover gray. Natural highlights in brunettes should be deep or caramel colored. 53) Haircolor tips for Blondes: when lighting brown hair to blond, there may be unwanted warm tones. When covering gray with blond, use a level 7/darker for best coverage. Double process blonding is the best way to obtain pale blond.

b. Chinese

i. During the Shang Dynasty (circa 1600 BC) Chinese aristocrats rubbed a tinted mixture of gum Arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg whites onto their nails to color them crimson or ebony. ii. Chou Dynasty (1100 BC) gold and silver were the royal colors. Nail tinting was so closely tied to social status that commoners caught wearing a royal nail color faced punishment of death.

Greeks

i. Golden Age of Greece, (circa 500 BC) hair styling became a highly developed art. The Greeks made lavish use of perfumes and cosmetics in their religious rites, in grooming, and for medicinal purposes. ii. Greek women applied white lead onto their faces, kohl around their eyes, and vermilion upon their cheeks and lips. (Vermilion is a brilliant red pigment made by grinding cinnabar, to a fine powder.)

f. Renaissance

i. One of the most unusual practices was the shaving of the eyebrows and hairline to show a greater expanse of the forehead. A brow less forehead was thought to give women a look of greater intelligence. ii. Fragrances and cosmetics were used, but highly colored preparations of the lips, cheeks, and eyes were discouraged.

d. Romans

i. Roman women wore lavishly used fragrances and cosmetics. Facials made of milk and bread or fine wine were popular. Other facials were made from corn with flour and milk, or from flour and fresh butter. ii. Women used hair color to indicate their class in society. Noblewomen tinted their hair red, middle class blond, and poor women black.

a. Egyptians

i. The first to cultivate beauty in an extravagant fashion. Used cosmetics as part of their personal beautification habits, religious ceremonies, and preparation of the deceased for burial. ii. As early as 3000 BC, Egyptians used minerals, insects, and berries to create makeup for their eyes, lips, and skin. Henna was used to stain their hair and nails a rich, warm red. iii. Queen Nefertiti (circa 1400 BC) stained her nails red by dipping her fingertips in henna, wore lavish makeup, and used custom blended essential oils as signature scents. iv. Queen Cleopatra (circa 50 BC) took dedication to beauty to an entirely new level by erecting a personal cosmetics factory next to the Dead Sea. v. Created kohl makeup made from a mixture of ground galena, sulfur, and animal fat to heavily line the eyes, alleviate eye inflammation, and protect the eyes from the glare of the sun. vi. Military commanders stained their nails and lips in matching colors before important battles.

g. Victorian Age

i. The reign of Queen Victoria of England, between 1837 and 1901, was known as the Victorian Age. Victorian women are said to have pinched their cheeks and bitten their lips to induce natural color rather than cosmetics, such as rouge or lip color.

e. Middle Ages

i. Women wore colored makeup on their cheeks and lips, but not on their eyes. Around AD 1000, a Persian physician and alchemist named Avicenna refined the process of steam distillation.

Rules for Success

• Attend all classes. • Arrive for class early. • Have all necessary materials ready. • Listen attentively to your instructor. • Highlight important points. • Take notes for later review. • Pay close attention during summary and review sessions. • When something is not clear, ask. If it is still not clear, ask again.

Life Skills

• Being genuinely caring and helpful to others. • Making good friends. • Feeling good about yourself. • Having a sense of humor to take you through difficult situations. • Maintaining a cooperative attitude. • Approaching all of your work with a strong sense of responsibility. • Being consistent in your work. • Successfully adapting to different situations. • Sticking to a goal and seeing a job through to completion. • Mastering techniques that will help you become more organized. • Developing a deep reservoir of common sense.

Guidelines for Success

• Build self-esteem • Visualize success. • Build on your strengths. • Be kind to yourself. • Define success for yourself. • Practice new behaviors. • Keep your personal life separate from your work. • Keep your energy up. • Respect others. • Stay productive. There are three bad habits that can keep you from maintaining peak performance: o Procrastination-putting off until tomorrow what you can do today. o Perfectionism- unhealthy compulsion to do things perfectly. o Lacking a game plan: the conscious act of planning your life, instead of just letting things happen.