CAD- TXMI 3540 Study Guide

T or F: X-axis is the grain of fabric

True

T or F: all pattern pieces displayed in the 'pieces window' will be stored as part of the style file regardless of what is displayed in the 'working area'

True

T or F: anything a pattern maker can do by hand with a pair of scissors, pencils and paper or fabric, can be done with a PDS

True

T or F: style dictates the grading to be slightly different

True

What coordinate basis does the CAD system work on?

X,Y coordinate

Can 'grade' points be curve points?

Yes

When using the measure function, what measurements does the system provide you with? a. x & y amounts b. x & y amounts as well as Delta x and Delta y c. x & y amounts as well as total distance d. x & y amounts as well as delta x and delta y, total distance, perimeter distance e. none of the above

d. x & y amounts as well as delta x & delta y, total distance, perimeter distance

Which of the following pattern changes can you make in PDS? a. shape changes by moving points b. split pattern pieces by cutting c. directional changes by rotating pieces d. adjustments by checking measurements and moving groups of points e. all of the above f. none of the above

e. all of the above

Computer grading

fastest method; only method being used in this class

Example of intelligent naming

Levi's style number

Symmetry within a one piece item (functions)

Mirror line

When calculating girth, do you divide for front and back?

yes

Movement (functions)

'Walk' allows you to walk pieces together to see how it will sew like and if any more fabric is needed

Points and Notches (functions)

-A grade point can be a curve point -A notch should always be a grade point -Everywhere that there is a point of measure on the body, there has to be a grade point -The fewer grade points that you have, the better off you are -Only add a point by using 'point on contour'

Woven fabrics

-Fibers are woven together -not as stretchy -has side seams in the case of t-shirts

Name Intelligience

The idea and thought that goes into naming a garment/collection/style/design -Each number/letter refers to a specific facility, fit, etc.

What is the purpose of grading?

To proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern while maintaining shape, fit, balance, and scale of style details

Build & Cut (functions)

To rejoin cut pieces, use the 'join pieces' function, connect with a line, 'change direction'

T or F: 1/2 of the grading comes from the front and 1/2 comes from the back

True

T or F: Cross grain is the Y-axis

True

T or F: Pattern makers work to the 64th of an inch

True

T or F: there are lots of shortcut keys and customizable screen options in PDS

True

Describe how geometry is a part of CAD

X & Y coordinates define shape and movement

What geometry is used in CAD?

X & Y coordinates to define shape and movement

Which points are numbered in PDS? a. grade b. curve c. neither

a. Grade

Sloper

basic pattern that is tried and true. The original pattern that brands make designs from

Where are the units of measurement that you are working in located on PDS?

bottom right of screen

Girth includes what areas?

bust, hips, waist, and knee

An established company, that has been using a CAD system with experienced pattern makers is going to get most of their new styles into the system by what input method?

by altering existing styles or slopers

Cut and Spread Method

easiest method; cut the pattern and spread the pieces by a specific amount to grade up, or overlap them to grade down. No special tools/training needed required-just scissors, pencil, tape, and a ruler that 1 inch to 1/64th in.

What must be on the inside of every piece that defines the direction of the piece?

grainline/baseline

What does grading tell the system when sizing?

how to go from the base size to get bigger or smaller

Where is the Command/Status bar located in PDS and what does it do?

located at the bottom of the screen, it tells you the steps on how to use a tool/do a function

Sweep

measurement at the bottom, all the way around a garment

Do patterns start in the smallest, middle, or largest size?

middle size (base size/ most popular size)

Tag Board

pattern paper that is single use and comes in a roll

Describe pattern symmetry and tell how it is an important part of PDS

pattern symmetry is when a pattern piece is created and then mirrored so that it is perfectly equalled on each side. It is important in PDS so that pattern makers/markers & sewers/seamstresses have a precise pattern that will be equal and symmetrical fully.

Pattern Shifting

process of increasing the overall dimensions of a pattern by moving it a measured distance up and down and left and right using a specialized ruler and redrawing the outline to produce the same results as the cut and spread method

What order do sizes go in the sizing table?

smallest to largest

What does grading reflect for individuals?

that individuals of different sizes are proportionally different, not uniformly different

The performance of fabric changes because:

the fabric may change the base or fit size

Describe when the function of 'drafting' a pattern is typically used by existing apparel manufacturers

to create very simple shapes like pockets & waistbands

What is grading intended to be used for?

to make a shape larger or smaller. it is not intended to change a shape.

Naming structure for markers

use the same structure for the first 9 characters positions as for a style, then input abbreviations regarding fabric width in the position 10,11, and 12, then abbreviated info regarding fabric type, or marker number

size to size grading for patterns/garments

usually differ within a company's product line -smaller grades (3/4, 1 in) are usually associated with smaller numerical pattern/garment sizes ex) a size 4 may only be graded down 3/4 in to produce a size 2

When adjusting the pattern shape in PDS, how do you know EXACTLY how much movement, adjustment, or alteration is being made?

when moving a point, an indicator comes up so that you can precisely input where/how far to adjust. there is also a measurement ruler icon that can be used to measure pattern

Seam allowance

width between the fabric edge and seam line -usually added at the end of the pattern making process

What happens if you perform a function in PDS in the wrong direction?

you will get inaccurate results

CAD brand/companies

-OptiTex a. Brand that has software b. packages are user-friendly c. equivalent to PDS -Lectra a. software packages for sewing industries b. more complicated for a newbie to learn because the platform is at a much more complex level b. equivalent to Modaris c. Gerber (GGT) is now a part of Lectra

Notch

A slit in the fabric. It is an indicator to the sewing operator of how the cut parts go together.

What is Alpha sizing?

S, M, L, XL, XXL/2XL Letter sizing

Symmetry within pairs (functions)

Sleeves: to differentiate between right and left, flip it

Digitizing button (B)

B is the Baseline/Grain line; digitize from left to right

Computer-aided systems provide the following advantages to the sewn products industries:

-Reduces design time for: a. Pattern Making b. Pattern Grading c. Style/line composition -Special Orders Reduces marking time -Improves pattern: a. quality b. fit c. shape d. style e. manufacturing efficiency -Labor savings in pattern making and marker making -De-skills the marker making process -Handles smaller orders more efficiently

What are some products that require near perfect precision when being made?

-Women's intimates -Post surgical compression wear for burn victims

Knitted Fabrics

-fibers are knitted together -much stretchier -often does not have a side seam in the case of t-shirts

How to build a table of sizes

-grading table on the left hand toolbar -menu; grading; sizes table; change 'base' to real size name -if smaller sizes are needed, use the insert button -if larger sizes are needs, use the append button -always keep base selected as the base in the size table -select grade point on pattern to insert grade points

Naming structure for garment styles

-position 1: first initial of your first name -position 2: first initial of your last name -position 3: pattern company initial ex) V=Vogue S=Simplicity N=New look M= McCalls B=Butterick Z=If none of the above apply -position 4,5,6,7: Style Number (can be made up) -position 8,9= Version/Revision number (for your first version of each style, input 0,0) -position 10,11,12,etc.=Style Identifier abbreviation ex) SK=skirt PT=pant TOP=top

Digitizing button (1)

1 is Grade point (non curve on a line). Start digitizing with this point

4 Ways to get pattern pieces into a CAD system

1. Create by "drafting" (scratch) -used when you have simple shapes like pockets -cannot be done with complicated/curvy shapes 2. Digitizing -used by people who are new to CAD but have cardboard patterns -less is more when digitizing 3. Alter an existing piece(s) -most common way for people experienced in the industry 4. Electronic Transfer -when you dont have a way to go, you start with a sloper and build from there -big brands and small brands dont run the same and when both brands dont have the same CAD system you must have conversion software

3 Basic methods of grading

1. Cut and Spread 2. Pattern Shifting 3. Computer Grading

3 positions that use PDS

1. Pattern Maker 2. Pattern engineer/grader 3. Designer

When creating from scratch you will be required to enter the following three things:

1. Pattern Name 2. Length 3. Width

2 ways to determine Grade Rules

1. using a finished dimension measurement chart 2. Measure grade increments off of a graded nested set of pattern pieces

Digitizing button (2)

2 closes the perimeter automatically from the last digitized point to the first one

Digitizing button (3)

3 is a curve point (simple and not graded)

Digitizing button (4)

4 is Graded; assign the last grading rule to the currently selected point

Digitizing button (5)

5 is a Notch point; digitize point type and then notch

How many inches down from the natural waist is the high hip point?

6 inches

Double notch is found on the front or back piece of fabric?

Back

What is the last item that you input when digitizing and describe why it is input?

Baseline/grainline; it is inputed to indicate the direction/grain of the pattern on the fabric

Digitizing button (C)

C is the Undo button

Which way does everything move in a CAD system?

Clockwise

Define CAD

Computer Aided Design

A company that has just purchased a CAD system, and has most of their patterns on cardboard or paper, is going to get most, if not all, of their patterns into the system by what input method?

Digitizer

Are women's/misses numeric size numbers even or odd?

Even

T or F: Fabric does not dictate grading to be different

False

T or F: When digitizing, always work in a counter-clockwise direction

False

T or F: When digitizing, the more points you put on the contour shape of the piece the more accurate the shape will be

False

Single notch is found on the front or back piece of fabric?

Front

Notches should always be a _______ _______

Grade Point

On a pattern, the fold line is also the _________

Grain line

What is an example of an article of clothing that is NOT laid on the grain line?

Hospital gowns

Are all patterns shown in the 'piece' bar?

No

In PDS are all pieces from the 'pieces bar' always displayed in the 'working area'?

No

When calculating length, do you divide?

No

Are there any standard sizes in the garment industry?

No. Each manufacturer sets it own base pattern measurements and grading conventions based on a specific customer base.

Are women's junior sizes even or odd?

Odd

What does PDS stand for?

Pattern Design System/Software

Why employ a CAD system?

Pattern makers used to have to draw patterns by had on tag boards. With this method, only one set of patterns are made but copies can be made from tracing original patterns (can be inaccurate). We use CAD because it is accurate, precise, and for fitted items.

What unit of measurement should be used in CAD?

Square inch