Ch 6: Skin Care Products!

Randy, a salon owner, is attending an annual cosmetology fair. This afternoon, he is circling around the numerous product booths in the main auditorium. He comes across the "speed lecture" area of the auditorium, where Alan, a researcher for a cosmetics company, holds a session to explain the basics of cosmetic chemistry. Alan asks some questions of his audience. His first question: Which term refers to ingredients that may be less likely to cause allergic reactions?

hypoallergenic

The consultant further notes that FDA regulations for cosmetic labeling state that cosmetic companies must list the company's name, location or distribution point, as well as the _____.

ingredients in the product

What are lakes?

insoluble pigments

hypoallergenic

less likely to cause allergic reactions

What is a possible advantage of synthetic ingredients over natural ingredients?

lesser ecological footprint

What type of ingredient is used to improve the hydration, plumpness, and smoothness of the skin?

lipids

What is mineral oil?

lubricant derived from petroleum

What products coat the skin and reduce friction?

lubricants

Emollients _____ the skin's surface.

lubricate

What do emollients do?

lubricate the skin's surface

Thermal masks that contains crystals of gypsum, and reach approximately 105 degrees Fahrenheit

modelage

The employees receive a handout on facials with a description of all of the new products available for them. Which product is applied at the end of the facial, often used as a day cream or makeup base, and can be found in every product line?

moisturizer

organic

natural-sourced ingredients that are grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals

fragrance-free

no ingredients added to provide a fragrance

What type of color agent is not subject to FDA batch certification requirements?

noncertified colors

Masks that are designed to stay moist and more hydrating

nonsetting

What do emulsifiers cause to mix, in order to form an emulsion?

oil and water

Elena wants to think about her choice and knows that scents have a strong effect on our reactions to places, products, and other people, and are dependent on the _____, which gives us our sense of smell.

olfactory system

Alan emphasizes that every ingredient in the cosmetic industry has a role in the finished product. It is either a(n) functional ingredient or _____ ingredient.

performance

Unlike functional ingredients, Alan explains, _____ ingredients cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin.

performance

SHANNNAAEEE Shanae begins the meeting with a review of _____ and their role in skin care formulations. These ingredients do the actual work of cleansing, normalizing, moisturizing, or otherwise treating skin.

performance ingredients

What is the source of mineral oil?

petroleum

Kari and her co-workers must have a thorough understanding of the skin care products they sell in order to provide clients with the appropriate treatments, stay current with new developments in cosmetic chemistry, and avoid _____.

problems or reactions to products

gluten-free

products containing less than 20 parts per million of the proteins found in wheat and rye

cruelty-free

products not tested on animals at any stage of the production process

Geena ends by introducing the broad-spectrum sunscreen in the new product line, which _____.

protects the skin from both UVA and UVB exposure

Masks that harden and contain ingredients, which dry and provide a complete barrier on top of the skin

setting

Alan shows an example of a common emollient ingredient, which is comprised of a group of oils that are chemically combined with silicon and oxygen, and leave a noncomedogenic protective film on the surface of the skin. What is the name of this group of oils?

silicones

Shanae also reminds the group that products come in many forms and types: solids, liquids, gases, or combinations of these. And while they may be formulated as cleansers, moisturizers, exfoliants, or other types of products, the final product differentiation is dependent on the _____.

skin type

What are examples of ingredients that are used to adjust the pH of products?

sodium hydroxide and citric acid

vehicles

spreading agents and carrying bases that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective

Randy, a salon owner, is attending an annual cosmetology fair. This afternoon, he is circling around the numerous product booths in the main auditorium. He comes across the "speed lecture" area of the auditorium, where Alan, a researcher for a cosmetics company, holds a session to explain the basics of cosmetic chemistry. Randy also asks about cosmetic ingredients that reduce the surface tension between the skin and the product, and increase the spreadability of cosmetic products. Alan replies that these types of ingredients fall into one of the category of cosmetic ingredients, called ____.

surfactants

Kari asks Shanae about the sources for her product ingredients. Shanae answers that product ingredients are derived from a variety of sources, including herbs, essential oils, plants, and _____ performance ingredients.

synthetic

What are carbomers used for?

thickening creams

What is an example of an inorganic physical substance?

titanium dioxide

polyglucans

used to enhance the skin's defense mechanism and stimulate cell metabolism

Next in his presentation, Alan discusses different product components and their uses. He begins by stating that one of the most frequently used cosmetic ingredients is _____.

water

Geena introduces the products representing the three most common categories of cleansers: gels, lotions, and creams. One of her employees asks her to explain the difference between cleansing lotions and cleansing creams. Geena replies that lotions are water based and creams have a(n) _____ emulsion.

water-in-oil

What are glycoproteins derived from?

yeast

What is an example of a sunscreen that protects the skin from UVA radiation?

zinc oxide

True/False: Anhydrous products are designed for oily skin.

FALSE. Rationale: Anhydrous products do not contain water. They are oil-based serums, petrolatum-based, and silicone-serum based products. Anhydrous products are designed for dry skin.

True/False: Carbomers are used to add fragrance.

FALSE. Rationale: Carbomers are used to thicken creams and are frequently used in gel products.

True/False: Enzyme peels dissolve dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix.

FALSE. Rationale: Enzymes provide gentle exfoliation and dissolve keratin proteins within dead skin cells on the surface to make skin softer and smoother, and to help maintain the hydration level of the epidermis.

True/False: Magnesium crystals and jojoba beads are examples of chemical exfoliants.

FALSE. Rationale: Examples of mechanical exfoliants include cleansers, scrubs, and masks made with ingredients such as rice bran, almond meal, jojoba beads, or magnesium crystals.

True/False: An exfoliating cream that is rubbed off the skin is a humectant.

FALSE. Rationale: Humectants, hydrators, and hydrophilic agents are ingredients that attract water to the skin's surface. They can lock water on the skin, reducing dehydration.

True/False: Lakes are botanical emulsifiers.

FALSE. Rationale: Lakes are insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material and are commonly used in colorful cosmetics.

True/False: Licorice is used for boosting the efficacy of enzyme peels.

FALSE. Rationale: Licorice is an anti-inflammatory.

True/False: Benzoyl peroxide is an ingredient specifically recommended for mature skin.

FALSE. Rationale: Products such as green tea, caviar, and retinol are known to be beneficial for mature skin. Benzoyl peroxide is very drying and is primarily used for treating acne.

True/False: Synthetic ingredients do not have any advantages over ingredients derived from nature.

FALSE. Rationale: Synthetically produced ingredients can be just as effective and may have certain advantages over ingredients derived from nature, such as no use of pesticides or not leaving an ecological footprint.

True/False: The FDA requires approval of cosmetics before their manufacture and sale.

FALSE. Rationale: The FDA doesn't require approval of cosmetics before their manufacture and sale. The FDA regulates cosmetics only in the areas of safety, labeling, and the claims made for a product.

True/False: Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are commonly used as exfoliants.

TRUE

True/False: Cosmeceuticals are products intended to improve the skin's health and appearance.

TRUE

True/False: Fragrances give products their scent.

TRUE

True/False: Functional ingredients allow products to spread, and give them body and texture.

TRUE

True/False: Green tea is an antibacterial and an anti-irritant, and it provides UV protection.

TRUE

True/False: Green tea is proven to have a positive effect on mature skin.

TRUE

True/False: If there is any reaction within 24 hours, the product should not be used.

TRUE

True/False: Ingredients must be listed in descending order of predominance, starting with the ingredient having the highest concentration and ending with the ingredient having the lowest concentration.

TRUE

True/False: Papaya is used for exfoliation.

TRUE

True/False: Preservatives are used to keep bacteria from living in a product.

TRUE

True/False: Products stored in dark containers and in cooler temperatures will last longer.

TRUE

True/False: Vitamin K is helpful for clients with telangiectasia and spider veins.

TRUE

What do silicones do?

act as vehicles in some products

Geena then describes the toners, fresheners, and astringents in the product line. She notes that while toners, fresheners, and astringents are essentially the same type of product and used interchangeably, they have different properties and vary in _____ content.

alcohol

Masks that form a seal that encourages the skin's absorption of the serum or cream underneath

alginate

What is coenzyme Q10?

antioxidant

The first technique Selena decides to try is an ancient healing practice that uses essential oils and aromas from plants to treat the body, mind, and spirit. What is this practice called?

aromatherapy

types of toners

astringent freshener tonic

The employees are particularly interested in the next product on display, exfoliants. What are the two most common types of exfoliants found in most product lines?

chemical and mechanical

polymers

chemical compounds formed by a number of small molecules

delivery system

chemical systems that deliver ingredients to specific areas of the epidermis

The consultant points out that the FDA does not require approval of cosmetics before their manufacture and sale, but that it does regulate cosmetics in the areas of safety, labeling, and the _____.

claims made for a product

Geena introduces the new masks next. An employee asks Geena if the masks in this product line contain the same herbal and vitamin ingredients as other masks, which can be combined in _____, seaweed, or hydrating bases.

clay

Geena begins with what she considers to be one of the most important products in the line. Regardless of which skin care product is being used, she explains, the first step in any skin care routine is _____.

cleansing

Alan's second question involves noncomedogenic products, which will not _____.

clog pores

liposomes

closed lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific areas of the skin and control their release

What is one of the fattiest and heaviest plant oils?

coconut oil

Alan begins his talk by sharing some information from the FDA, which defines ______ as articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance.

cosmetics

types of cleansers

cream gel lotion

natural

derived from natural sources

plant stem cells

derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells

Randy, a salon owner, is attending an annual cosmetology fair. This afternoon, he is circling around the numerous product booths in the main auditorium. He comes across the "speed lecture" area of the auditorium, where Alan, a researcher for a cosmetics company, holds a session to explain the basics of cosmetic chemistry. Not to be outperformed, Randy raises his hand to identify the other type of surfactant, _____, which are the agents that cause cleansers to foam and remove oil, dirt, makeup, and debris from the surface of the skin.

detergents

The main types of surfactants used in skin-cleansing products are _____.

detergents

What are the main types of surfactants used in skin-cleansing products?

detergents

noncomedogenic

does not clog pores

vegan

does not contain any animal ingredients or animal by-products

Alan explains that products (other than food) intended to affect the structures and/or functions of the body of humans or other animals are called _____.

drugs

Alan goes on to say that another common component is _____, which are "fatty" materials (derived from oils or fats) used to lubricate and moisturize the skin. He explains that these can act as either vehicles for placing, spreading, and keeping other substances on the skin, or as performance ingredients to lubricate the skin's surface and guard the barrier function.

emollients

Alan confirms Randy's answer and goes on to explain that _____ are surfactants that cause oil and water to mix to form an emulsion.

emulsifiers

Randy, a salon owner, is attending an annual cosmetology fair. This afternoon, he is circling around the numerous product booths in the main auditorium. He comes across the "speed lecture" area of the auditorium, where Alan, a researcher for a cosmetics company, holds a session to explain the basics of cosmetic chemistry. To end his presentation, Alan shows a couple of samples and asks the group to identify the two most common surfactants. A conference participant identifies _____ as one surfactant.

emulsifiers

What do glycoproteins do?

enhance immune response

What term refers to ingredients designed to dissolve keratin proteins on the surface of the skin?

enzymes

Where in the body are alpha lipoic acids found?

every cell

What are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) commonly used as?

exfoliants

comedogenic

forms blackheads

unscented

formulated to have no smell

What gives products their scent?

fragrances

Sandy shows the consultant some of the most common allergens in skin care products to get her advice. Which types of products does she display?

fragrances and some preservatives

Alan talks about ingredients that make up the majority of a product, in that they allow products to spread, and give them body and texture in a specific form such as a lotion, cream, or gel. Which type of ingredient is he referring to?

functional

What element turns a fatty acid into a fatty alcohol?

hydrogen