Color theory from milady

What are the four steps to hi-lift color formulation?

1. Identify the guest natural base jingle swatches 2. Determine guests desired level 3. Determine desired tonal value and appropriate product shade 4. Determine the desired amount of lift and select the appropriate volume of developer

List the colors of NRP

10-lightest blonde= pale yellow complimentary-violet 9- very light blonde= yellow complimentary-violet 8- light blonde= yellow/orange complimentary-blue violet 7- medium blonde= orange complimentary-blue 6-dark blonde= red/orange complimentary-blue green 5-lightest brown= red complimentary-green 4-light brown= red 3-medium brown= red 2-dark brown= red 1-black= red

20 volume

2 levels of lift, and deposit-30 minutes

What percentages are a clients non pigmented hair generally described as?

25% 50% 75%

30 volume

3 levels of lift, and deposit-40 minutes

40 volume

4 levels of lift, and deposit-45 minutes

Lifting color from the new growth occurs________faster than the mid shaft and ends.

5-15 times Mid lengths are slower to absorb color Ends are faster due to porosity

What is the PH of permanent hair color?

9-10.5. The alkalinity is what causes the cuticle to swell and allows the dye to penetrate the cortex

What are trichochromes?

A sub category to pheomelanin pigment in a sandy red color. (Natural strawberry blondes). Contains more red than yellow pigment making it even more difficult to lighten to pale yellow.

Color is arranged as____________

A system that can be studied and understood

A black object______most of the light that shines on it.

Absorbs

What are the seven stages of lightning?

Black Brown Red Red/orange Orange Yellow Pale yellow

What colors are complimentary?

Colors directly across from each other on the color wheel.

Chromatic colors

Colors of the rainbow, made up of primary, secondary, and tertiary colors.

What colors, when mixed together, create a neutral color?

Complimentary colors and when all three primary are mixed together

Hair must penetrate the______cuticle before it reaches the______

Cuticle Cortex

What is pheomelanin?

Diffused melanin

What is eumelanin?

Granular melanin

What is the level system?

It is the amount of lightness or darkness in a color by levels, 1-10 or sometimes 1-12

What two ways can hair color be described?

Level (darkness to lightness) Tone (the characteristic of color) All colors have varying tone

When hair color is mixed with catalyst/developer it immediately begins to oxidize so it can__________

Lift and remove the natural hair color (Melanin) and deposit color molecules These actions take place simultaneously during processing.

___________disappears from the hair when exposed to sun or lightning products.

Melanin

Color is formed in the cortex of the hair by_________that produce three types of pigment (melanin). What are the three types of pigments?

Melanocytes Eumelanin Pheomelanin Mixed melanin

Describe eumelanin

Natural black to red pigment (sometimes called granular) is larger in size than diffused pigment, so fewer actual pigment granules are needed to color the shaft. Because there are fewer of them eumelanin pigment is more easily and quickly removed than pheomelanins

Describe pheomelanin

Natural red to pale yellow pigment (sometimes called diffused) is much smaller than eumelanin pigment. There are many more yellow and red than black and brown pigments in a single hair shaft. This makes them more difficult to remove.

What is NRP

Natural remaining pigment. This is the tonal value that the hair contributes as it lightens.

The stages of lightning applies to ______

Natural, not color treated hair

Secondary colors

Orange, green, and violet

Tertiary colors

Primary and secondary colors mixed in even proportions. There names are stated with the primary colors named first

10 volume

Provides one level of lift, and deposit-20 minutes

Porous hair accepts color more_______and may appear darker

Readily

Primary colors

Red, yellow, and blue. No colors can be mixed to create these colors.

A white object_____most of the light that shine on it.

Reflects

Course hair is more _________to color and may appear slightly lighter than selected shade.

Resistant

Non pigmented hair is referred to as _______

Resistant to color because it may have up 24 layers of cuticle

Fine hair accepts color more easily and may appear___________ than selected color.

Slightly darker

The stages that natural hair go through as it is being lifted or lightened is referred to as______

Stages of lightning or lifting levels

What are the four categories of hair color?

Temporary- large molecule direct dye that lodges in the cuticle layer only. Can be rinsed out with shampoo. Temporarily Adds level and tone. semi-permanent- small molecule direct dye that penetrates the cuticle layer. Temporarily adds level and tone. Is washed out with 4-6 shampooings Demi permanent-is an oxidizing, Indirect dye that adds level and tone. Slightly raises the cuticle to allow some color penetration to the cortex and the cuticle. It does not alter natural melanin and lasts 4-6 weeks. permanent-is an oxidizing indirect dye that can lighten, darken, change tone, and deliver maximum gray coverage. It raises the cuticle to allow for maximum penetration, lightning the natural pigment and oxidizing the color molecules in the cortex. Needs retouched and refreshed every 4-6 weeks.

What happens once the natural melanin has been lifted from the hair?

The NRP will be exposed and it will contribute to the end color result

What are canities?

The absence of pigment in the hair

The cortex contains________

The bulk of the melanin lodged in its fibers

What is tone?

The characteristics of color. In hair tone is the warmth or coolness added to a hair color. The level system does not identify warmth/redness or ash/or drab tones.

Blue is a cool color, and red is a warm color. What happens when a cool color and a warm color are mixed?

The cool color will always dominate. For example, blue added to yellow=green (cool) and blue added to red=violet

What is oxidation?

The reaction of a substance when it has been mixed with oxygen

What happens when two colors opposite each other on the color wheel are mixed together?

They neutralize each other

What is mixed melanin?

When both types are present in one granulat

Achromatic colors

White, black, and shades of gray

What does the saturation of blue, red, and yellow

Will affect the level of color and tone in the hair.