DHE 462 Final study cards
Anglomania:
"french fad" English riding habits and for coat-dresses derived from english mens riding coats called redingotes
17th Century dress second half?
"vests" (coat), long curly hair, full bottom wig, cravat. petticoat breeches, canons-men mantua, fontage-women
The process of iron improved during the 18th century. which part of the near environment benefited the most from this?
**bridges (built structures) and textile mills/factories
What were the components/inventions necessary for the development of early sky scrapers in the 19th century?
-1. U.S. mass produced structural elements (beams) -2. Fireproofing techniques (reinforced concrete with steel rods) -3. Safety elevator a. Steel b. Reinforced concrete c. I-beam lead to safety elevator with brake tools, nails -cast iron (skyskrapers) -bessemer process borgardus (iron I-Beam)
dress 1700-1750 (first half) men?
-underdrawers/drawers, -shirt, neck opening is new, -undervest/under waistcoat. layer for warmth and not visible -waistcoat (fashion fabric in front less expensive fabric in back w/ or w/out sleeves -coasts (18th c much fuller) -large cuffs -frock coats: shorter, turned down collar goes around neck, not embroidered and usually made of wool -dress coat -breeches -early hair: full bottom wig, que: w/ribon holdng together, little side curls, low to head, natural colored hair
18th Century interiors English Baroque 2 styles furniture
1. queen anne (middle class -silhouette of baroque but made for middle class) 2. high baroque : much more ornamentation
18th century: What three dominant changes influenced England's technological revolution/Industrial Revolution?
1. substitution of machines for human skill/effort 2. substitution of inanimate or animate source of power. 3. use of new and far more abundant raw materials.
During which part of the Renaissance period did the scale of textile designs and motifs become more diverse with larger, heavier textiles reserved for furnishings and exclusive clothes of the wealthy?
16th century Italian Renaissance
chinoiserie
18th century interest in Asian things
robe a l Anglaise
2nd half front and back fitted at waist, silk w/ lace like bottom, fitted back
Discuss the Ecole des Beaux-Arts. What was it? How did it influence U.S. architecture and architectural education?
Art school by Napoleon- Revisited styles of the past • Americans came to study here, and because they did, during the second half of the 19th century past styles such as Romanesque, French Renaissance, and so forth were commonly used in the U.S. • The rise of modernism and international style with WW1 caused a decline in the style.
Louis XIV style
Baroque
North European: describe early and late built structures and interiors:
Early: France-few classical details, spiral staircases, narrow towers (turrets) echos mid ages, steep roof, segmental pediments over windows (horizontal) Late: louvre remodel courtyard/west in 1546, lescot, pilasters (classical style) triangular & segmental pediment over windows. -horizontal emphasis but also vertical (very french) -little more in-depth but quantity of ornamentation & classical -changed orders (sculptural richness) [French classicism]
North European Renaissance: How did garments early in this period differ from those worn towards the end of the period?
Early: sanish farthingale (cone shaped) Late: French farthingale (wheeled shaped)
What 19th century built structure style was favored by Englishmen perceiving themselves as English country gentlemen?
Elizabethan
Who were the fashion style leaders of the 17th century? How did fashion leaders differ between England and France? Is
England- Charles II and nobility , France- Kings and mistresses
Built structures and interiors in the 17th century first half (English/ late renaissance/Palladian)
English Renaissance/Palladian inspired by Palladian Architecture
What are the influences on English and French neoclassical structures of the 18th century?
English: neoclassical (Palladian) clean lines-less ornamentaion, center front most important, orders are structural. (gregorian style: temple front -doorway) (villa rotunda inspiration (Palladian like) French Neoclassical-reaction against baroque and rococo-not concerned w/rules, pure forms, symmetrical, simple no frames/ pediments, strong palladian arches, very geometric shape.
Italian Renaissance: Why is palladio important?
He used temple fronts on no religious structures
After Henry VIII broke with the Church how did England receive information on the Italian Renaissance ?
Indirectly through France and the Lowlands The information came indirectly via the low countries/holland.
who was the dominant architect of the English Palladian style
Inigo Jones
Early Renaissance (14th-15th century)
Italian Peninsula only- Florence Built structures: horizontal emphasis (low to ground), symmetrical compositions, flat Period of experimentation when mostly classical forms were used Slightly pointed arches, polychrome, painted beams, temple fronts • Flat, 3D ornamentation, least amount of ornamentation (especially interiors) • Waistlines in women's dress were high (under bust)
17th century: Galileo
Laid the groundwork/foundation for physics, engineering one of the founders of Europe's scientific revolution (Copernicus idea) questioned matter and form math: strength : beam/structures saw moons Jupiter(telescope) Vacuum--->steam pump
built structures rococo
Louis XV : lighter, gilding
18th century rococo 1st half
Louis XV interior first half: reaction against baroque-room size is intimate and smaller, lighter in color, delicate, lighter gilding, asymmetrical, lacey, and wispy -curvilinear lines on walls, countryside(romanticism &rococo) ceilings are white , skinny legs on commode and chairs
What accounts for the decrease in the quality of French furniture during the late 18th century?
Louis XVI dies, less design **French revolution disrupted the gild system--few new artisans were being trained
built structure Neoclassical
Louis XVI: right angles, inspired by Greece and Rome, or romantic chinoiserie, Middle Ages, fantasizing about other times/places
19th century: Particularly for interiors and built structures what time periods and cultures could be found at various times in the century?
Neoclassic, Italianate/Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Baroque, Neo-Rococo, Neo-Gothic. Aesthetic movement, arts and crafts movement, art nouveau movement
what was the difference between English and French Neoclassical structures in the 18th century?
Neoclassical was not concerned with the rules of what classical buildings should look like. the french wanted to think and move in a different direction & wanted to be different than the English
Late North European Renaissance
Palladian (England), Elizabethan/
What was a large influence on the style, particularly the floor plan, of palazzos of this style period?
Romans homes that had courtyards
Who invented the spinning mule? what contributions did it make to the textile industry?
Samuel Crompton invented the spinning mule. quality of yarn could be varied.first machine that could make warp and weft yarn/had to be in a factory(very large) later it was powered by a steam engine
Italian Renaissance: Dress in which European countries influenced Italian Renaissance women's dress?
Spain: (flat chest) women:blackwork... men : narrow shoulders
What has been discussed as the influence on the development of small, more intimate rooms with light furniture in France in the 18th century?
The Assembly: an evening of entertainment with multiple activities all happening at once entertainment so you can move room-to-room, since Intimate activities meant "close". rooms get smaller to be more intimate
lacquer
a liquid made of shellac dissolved from alcohol or synthetic substance that dries and forms a hard, protective cover over wood, metal, etc.
doublet
a man's close fitting, padded jacket
plastic collar
allowed for the making of the detachable collar- which allowed men to wear the same shirt for the whole week by just changing the color of their plastic collar
W. H. Perkins
aniline dyes: mauve (Nitrocellulose filament)
chinoiserie
asian influence on textiles and ornamentaion
18th century dress 1760-1789 (second half) men
before revolution: shirt, carvat or stock, waistcoat (shorter). coat-cutaway coat (fullness in back, standing collars) breeches has fall front fitted. hair starts low to head the gets higher -1790-1800: less embroidered silk, shirt: high standing collar, pleated ruffle cravat or stock, neckband (led to modern bow tie) coat waistcoats contrast colors, breeches (single/double breasted) spencer: short w/even hem coat pantaloons: long pants became fashionable and very tight.
what was the influences on French neoclassical buildings of this century?
before revolution: Louis XVI influence-straight legs and firplaces After revolution: neocassical turned to directoire- copies of greek, roman influences (less designs) philosophers seeing more human potential don't like monarch control
What was the influence on beginning of the Baroque style?
bringing the people back to the church to the catholic church and salvation
S. Slater
brought water frame spinner to the U.S. (father of American Industry)
Describe and discuss terrace houses as conceived by Inigo Jones in the 17th century and built in the 18th century. For whom were they built?
building houses (speculative building) when they assumed there would be a demand for more housing.Families would live in this 5 story building and usually rent out the first floor and use it as a store so they could make money general public/working class who had to move to1 cities to work in factories and away from their farms.
18th century 2nd half women's dress:
chemise, stays, stomacher, under petticoats, pannier until 1700's, pocket, drawers, 1 and 2 piece gowns, robe a la francaise, long dress (rounded silhoutte, relase pleats on back)robe a l Anglaise (fitted in back no loose pleats) polonaise gown(milk maid Marie Antoinette) ex: romanticism chemise a la reine (muslin fabric pulled up 1790's-1800: undergarments, chemise, drawers, stays,petticoat, gowns, round gowns-high waist dresses (empire waist)tunic dress
What was a predominate and growing influence on the aesthetics, built structures, and interiors of the early Renaissance?
classical antiquity
wood shortage lead to?
coal and coal to charcoal
17th century general technology?
coal used for heating industrial furnaces-coal mining brings water seepage problems. hand pumps and animal operated pumps (only 400feet)
fireproofing techniques
concrete reinforced iron
codpiece
connects a man's breeches over the genitals (fashionable during the first half of the century)
18th century technology? iron
continuous improvements on iron
18th Century dress 2nd half for men?
cravat or stock, Spencer, pantaloons
boulle work
denoting or relating to a type of marquetry of patterned inlays of brass and tortoiseshell, occasionally w/ other other metals such as pewter, much used on French furniture
Hans Oersted
did work that showed that there was a relationship between electricity and electromagnetism
Late Italian Renaissance?
disharmony, breaking rules
chemise a la reine
fabric pulled up/fitted (muslin-thin translucent) waist line moves up, no hoop support
17th Century dress first half?
falling band collar, ribbon bows
Charles Frederick Worth
first high fashion designer and first to use young women models, first to use live models.
other 15th century discoveries?
first systematic study of gasses and combustion. heat something means you need to understand how the process works
john kay
flying shuttle: piece of equipment that hold yarn; increased speed of weaving
17th century: Gilbert
foundations of experimental study of magnetism and electricity (electric motor) **experimental philosophy (scientific method)
technology started in the middle ages
gore: used as a sharpening device hook and eye developed in the renaissance discoveries on materials strengths
which James Watt's achievements contributed the most to the industrial revolution?
he improved the efficiency of the steam engine. and he later added a rotary motion.
Built structures and interiors in the 17th century first half Baroque (Louis XIV)
heavy guilding, C curves and S curves, light and shadow effect, large rooms, ovals
what are the similarities between architectural and dress styles in the Baroque period?
high ornamentation/ bold designs
What are the characteristics of early renaissance women's dress?
high waist, turbans, straight dresses
Italian Renaissance early?
horizontal, flat, little ornamentation
John Smeaton
hydraulic cement: set and work in wet conditons *descriptive geometry: true 3D relationships so architects didn't need to be on site *structural calculations: how much material is needed
John Wilkinson
improved iron blast furnaces
15th century technological discoveries impacted the near environment?
improvements in silk draw looms 1570 ribbon loom: late in the renaissance, allows multiple looms to be produced. intarsia: invented at least by the Roman times wood inlay mirror making techniques developed
cast iron usage
in bridges, used as columns, higher comprehensive strength incombustubile and strong, used in textile mills
iron blast furnaces resulted what?
in large integrated establishments near coal fields making the steam engine and iron industry to advance.
polonaise
inspired by marie antoinette (milk maid) bunched up dress in the back
variety of bridges: suspenion
inspired in Asia and S. America made from natural materials (vines) doesn't hold a lot of weight-suspension iron cable in Europe
Bogardus
introduced Euopean I-Beam (safety elevator)
What is technology?
is the application of knowledge for practical ends (knowledge, tools, skills) it allows for a more complicated or refined product, or requires less time or human energy
court cupboard:
its a 2 tiered cupboard with 3 shelves separated by supports
Weaving
jacquard mechanism: attached to a loom revised the french silk industry & reducing labor and speeding things up.
How did John Kay's invention change textile technology and move it toward the industrial revolution?
john's Kay's flying shuttle doubled the speed 1 person can weave at. it was used for cotton ( it was the dominate woven fabric)
coal mining technology
lead to expansion to new uses for metals (more items in home from iron, steel, pewter, brass, and bronze)
William Morris
leader of arts and crafts movement,he looked to medievel period, furniture should depend on the joinery, people skilled in specific areas,people work together to produce best product
robe/gown/jacket
long full open front garment worn over doublet/jacket
Michael Faraday
looking at atoms, first who recognized there were lines of force between atoms, the space between atoms was filled with lines of force (first to use the word "field" ) created an early electric transformer dynamo
Abraham Boss
mathematical science and stone cutting: geometry
Early North European Renaissance?
mixture of middle ages, steep roofs, wooden beams
high Italian Renaissance?
more ornamentation, trompe l'oeil, harmonious
textile production advancements
more spinner for wool weaing
louis XVI
neoclassical
what are the characteristics of English commonwealth near environment styles
no excess, little ornamentation
according to Tortora and Eubank what cautions should be made when using paintings as a source of evidence for renaissance dress
note religious figures, Religion was big so they may of over glamour the painting. paintings aren't always accurate People often used their best/nicest clothing in paintings, so styles were not always accurate
18th century second half Romanticism
picturesque, looking to other lifestyle, chinossier-asian influence on textiles
Joseph Lister
pioneered antiseptic treatments (listerine) man made materials: organic chemicals synthetic dyes, medicine, coal tar derivative
what are the characteristics of early renaissance interiors?
plain, flat paintings on walls
Abraham Darby
produced charcoal from coke
19th century men's clothing
ready made clothing (direct measurements: measuring individual person) (table proportions: figuring out clothing that fits the majority of people)
Apparel technology
ready made clothing has existed since the 16yh century before sewing machines
louis XV style
rococo
18th Century dress 2nd half for women?
romantic: polonaise dress
bases
seperate piece worn under a doublet/jacket that resembled a skirt, stiffened linen
James Hargreaves
spinning Jenny
Wyatt & Paul
spinning frame
what 18th century textile invention changed the textile industry from being largely a cottage industry to a factory based industry?
spinning mule was so large it had to e in a factory, not suitable for cottage home industry
Samuel Crompton
spinning mule-hybrid combination of spinning jenny and water frame in a factory setting
plastics
start as liquid and were molded and shaped (parkensine): jewelry, knife handles, boxes
18th century Neoclassical second half
straight lines and sngles, looking like Rome or Egypt, playing with geometry (Louis XVI or Directoire) simpler after monarch
banyan
style of clothing used for underdress, long coat- mens underdress- was robe-like
17th century science and technology discoveries
telescope: has been around but it was improved. calculating machine: important for scientific studies but also for business. air pump: vacuum & steam engine. pendulum clock: more accurate than previous sundial. thermometer: usable for scientific and for basic production processes
Italian Renaissance: what are the typical characteristics of palladio structures?
temple fronts, division into thirds
how was the development of an English silk industry in this century simulated and influenced? Why did it successfully compete with the French silk industry for a while?
the Huguenots coming fro m France when edict of nantes was evoked... Hugenots left for London and settled in Spitalfields and it became very competitive with the French silk production
what did Hans Oersted discover when electricity is resented to a wire?
there is magnetic forces around the wire
Italian Renaissance: Describe Late Renaissance built structures and interiors. How do they vary from High Renaissance built structures and interiors?
they broke the rules...mannerism
Italian Renaissance: what are said to be the western Asian influences on dress of this period?
turbans, textile patterns (pomegranates)
18th Century dress 1st half for women?
undergarments: stayed the same, drawers only worn by prostitutes, under petticoat: before stays, hooped petticoat: panniers, pockets: separate pieces outer garments: mantua: dress with pulled back part, fontage: hair piece, sacque: wide dress that looks like a nightgown 1730-1760: robe a la francias: smaller scale garment that is wide on the sides but needs to be seen from all angles
18th Century dress 1st half for men?
undergarments: underdrawers under breeches: made of cotton, wool or linen shirt: ruffles on neck opening undervest & under waistcoat outer garments: waistcoat, coat: frock coat & dress coat, breeches hair: full bottom wig
chemise
undershirt
truss construction
use of triangles and short pieces-very sturdy and used for railroads
wrought iron usage
used for beams, higher tensile strength
eiffel tower
used iron,tallest iron structure in the world
17th century: Issac Newton
used some of Galileo's ideas -math, physics,alchemy, theology scientific principals :universal app -concieved inverse square law-gravity theory of motion cause & effect
Richard Arkwright
water frame spinning machine (father of industrial revolution) *first spinning machine powered by water
William Kelly & Henry Bessemer project?
way to reduce air in steel reduction. both were working on same idea but Bessemer's patent was approved first so he became known as the inventor
Leonardo da Vinci calculated what?
weight a pillar or cluster of pillars, and beams that could carry
putti
were amorini or winged naked human babies, of ancient rome that were used decoratively
technology defined
without technology some science is not possible , (e.g. compound microscope 1590 mathematics enhanced by needs of military engineers, surveyors, and more
Worth clothing
wives of wealthy wanted to be in a Worth gown,given credit to have possibly invented the hoop skirt..(founder of the french couture, first to design garments without having specific client in mind)
describe dress that would be most typical for court or ceremonial dress.
women : hoop supported Robe a la Francaise
What was the relationship between architecture and engineering in this century?
• Increasing separation of architecture and engineering • scientific data on materials provides basis for civil engineers
Which 19th century scientists did work in the 19th century that was critical to the development of the electric motor?
• Michael Faraday • Hans C. Øersted - relationship between magnetism and electricity
To what degree did (or did it?) industrialization influence interiors, treatments, and furniture?
• People thought the industrialization was turning stuff ugly , this then sparked aesthetic movements
How were synthetic dyes first discovered/invented in this century
• William Henry Perkin's • He discovered Mauveine. He mixed aniline with alcohol and it produced a purple color that they called mauveine (first synthetic dye
dress 1700-1750 (first half) women?
• chemise • drawers • stays • stomachers • under petticoat • hoop support skirt, hooped petticoat - pannier beginning of century (1730 gets wider on side) • pockets • sacque: dress that didn't have a waistline and less formal. was loose in front and back • gowns and two piece garments: robe a la Francais, Robe a l'anglaise • eschelues: stomacher with lots of lace • engageants: lots of layers at sleeves
What was the reaction to the invention of the sewing machine? Was it immediately accepted and used for all purposes? Why or why not?
• people skeptical and did not trust the sewing machine at first • assumed it couldn't make or support RTW because sewing machine used chain stitch and people were worried that everything would fall apart if clothes were made by this. Lockstitch was then invented which people trusted.
Who was John Smeaton and what did he do?
•Famous civil engineer Hydraulic cement: cement made of limestone and clay that could be set under water (Water mills)
