History of Costume Final

Torpedo bra (bullet bra)

Fifties - a style of bra constructed with spiral cup stitching and padded linings

Greaser

Fifties - a working-class youth subculture that was popularized in the late 1940s and 1950s by predominately working-class and lower class teenagers and young adults in the US. the subculture remained prominent into the mid 1960s and was particularly embraced by certain ethnic groups in urban areas. (leather jacket, white t shirt, blue jeans)

Car Coat

Fifties - any variety of men's or women's coat cropped between the upper thighs and hips to allow greater freedom of motion for driving; also called a suburban

Wash-and-wear

Fifties - apparel made of various shrink-resistent synthetic yarns and treated fabrics

H-Line

Fifties - one of Dior's 1954 collections that featured dresses with a dropped waistline

Y-Line

Fifties - one of Dior's 1955 collections that featured dresses with balloon sleeves and other shoulder emphasis over slim skirts

A-line

Fifties - one of Dior's 1955 collections that featured dresses, suits, and coats that flared out into wide triangles from narrow shoulders

Espadrille

Fifties - rope soled shoe with canvas upper; some tied with long shoelaces threaded through top of shoe, crossed and tied at the ankle; introduced as bathing shoe later sportswear

Moccasin

Fifties - shoe based on the construction of the moccasin in which the upper starts under the sole of foot and forms the quarter

Ducktail (DA)

Fifties - short hairstyle combed to comet to a point at the nape of the neck; worn by both men and women. Also called DA slang for Duck's Ass

Saddle Oxford

Fifties - sport or school shoe usually made of white buck calf with a brown or black leather "saddle" shaped section over the middle of the shoe

Bermuda Shorts

Fifties - tailored, knee length shorts for both women and men

Bobbysoxers

Fifties - teenage girls who wore turned down white cotton socks with saddle oxfords or penny loafers

Shirtwaister

Fifties - the 1950s version of the shirtwaist dress with a fitted bodice and full skirt

Atom

Fifties - the name given to the 1946 bikini swimsuit design by Jacques Heim

Capri Pants

Fifties - women's and men's casual pants cropped just above the ankles

Toppers

Fifties - women's loose-fitting coats usually cropped at the waist or high on the hips

Beach Pajamas

Twenties - Long full trousers with matching tops, either separate or seamed together, that were worn for leisure activities. Some had matching hats.

Camisole

Twenties - a woman's loose-fitting undergarment for the upper body, typically held up by shoulder straps and having decorative trimming.

Plus-Fours

Twenties - baggy pants reaching below the knee, worn especially by men for playing golf.

Permanent waving

Twenties - "perm" few people waved in this manner as it took 12 hours and cost 200 pounds in England. In 1920s it was made cheaper by use of machine, either by electric dry heat or by steam. The hair was would around curlers which were then attached to a machine to be "cooked", a process that took 3-4 hours [Post WWII meth of cold waving which employed chemicals in cold form was more comfortable and faster]

Flapper

Twenties - - fashionable woman in teens or 20s who adopted the unfitted styles, short skirts, bobbed hair of the 1920s.

Pannier Dress

Twenties - 1920s dropped waisted dress with a gathered panel on each hip, flat front and back

Robe de style (20s)

Twenties - 1920s dropped waisted dress with full skirt

Polo Shirt

Twenties - A sport shirt, usually knitted with an open collar and short sleeves

Trench Coat

Twenties - Coat created by Thomas Burberry during WWI for soldiers that was made of chemically finishes, water-repellent cotton gabardine. After the war the style became all-purpose civilian coat with double breasted and convertible collar, large lapels, fabric belt, back vent, extra hanging yoke in back over shoulders and front flap on right shoulder. (1920s) Classic style of rain-proof coat worn belted, with collar and reveres based upon WWI officers coats worn in the trench warfare when in had buttoned epaulets; usually a double yoke at shoulder that was loose at the bottom.

Cardigan

Twenties - Coat style sweater made with center front opening, crew neck, ribbed cuffs and hem, closed with pearl buttons. May have a shawl collar and called shawl collar cardigan or tuxedo sweater. Named after the Seventh Earl of Cardigan, who needed an extra layer of warmth under his uniform during the Crimean War 1854.

Cloche Hat

Twenties - Deep-crowned hat with very narrow brim or brimless, fitting head closely, almost concealing all of the hair. Worn pulled down almost to eye brows, fashionable in 1920s and again in 1960s. From French for bell

Chemise Dress

Twenties - Dress characterized by a loose fit; if they are belted, belts are generally located at hipline or under the bust with dress unfitted at anatomical waistline. Popular in Directoire and Empire periods, 1920s, 1960s and 1990s

Lacoste knit shirt

Twenties - Knitted shirt designed by tennis star Rene Lacoste whose nickname was "crocodile" which was the emblem he placed on the breast of the shirt.

Raccoon Coat

Twenties - Long, bulky coat of raccoon fur with large rolled collar worn originally bt college men in the 1920s. Popular again in the 1960s and usually purchased from thrift shops.

Argyles

Twenties - Made with various colored diamond-shaped patterns -usually a larger diamond pattern of dark or light lines superimposed over other solid colored diamonds. Popular in 1920s, 1940s and revived in 1960s.

Oxford Bags

Twenties - Men's trousers with very wide cuffed legs. Popular in 1920s beginning at Oxford University in England. [Revived for men and women in the 1970s]

Gaucho Pants

Twenties - Pants with wide calf-length legs copied from Andalusian riding suit and adopted by South American cowboys

Jodphurs

Twenties - Riding pants, with drop front or zipper closing, that flare at thighs and have narrow straight cut legs below knee with cuffs at ankles. Popular for women and men riders since 1920 (1920s) Riding trousers originated in India and were named after the city in the northwest part of the country, worn by both sexes, cut full at hips and are tight fitting from knee to ankle finishing in a cuff and instep strap.

Shingle

Twenties - Tapering of the hair up back of the head and sometimes around to the sides in imitation of a man's conventional haircut. Style introduced in the 1920s for women, achieving new popularities in the 1960s and 1980.

Cummerbund

Twenties - Wide fabric belt, sometimes pleated lengthwise and fastened in back; worn with men's semiformal dinner suit and also by women.

Clutch Coat

Twenties - Woman's coat with no fasteners in front worn open or held closed, originally introduced in mid 1920s as low waisted evening wrap with bagpipe sleeves and large fur collar and also for day wear

Slouche Hat

Twenties - Woman's hat similar to man's fedora made with flexible brim that may be turned down in front; also called a Garbo Hat

Bob hair

Twenties - Women cutting the hair to shoulder length

Fedora

Twenties - a velour hat with fairly high, tapering crown that was usually creased in the middle

Marcel wave

Twenties - artificial wave put into women's hair with heated curling irons, devised by _______ of France in 1907 and popular in 1920s

Cami-Knickers

Twenties - combination feminine undergarment of knickers and chemise introduced about 1916 and especially fashionable in 1920s and 1930s

Chanel

Twenties - designer of 1920s and onward who introduced worker wool jersey to couture, popularized the suntan and costume jewelery

Poodle

Twenties - hairstyle with short curls all over the head.

Duffel Coat

car coat or a shorter-length coat fastened with toggles rather than buttons, introduced during WWII, and worn by men in British navy

Sling-backs

Fifties -

Athletic Shirts

Thirties -

Pret-a-porter

Fifties - French high style, high quality ready-to-wear tailored to the U.S. market

Teddy Boys

Fifties - Youths wearing exaggerated outfits reminiscent of Edwardian period in England with longer coast, velvet accents at collar, cuff and pocket flaps and narrow width trousers

Trapeze cut

Fifties - a cut featuring a full, tent shape with a high bust and a back that falls from the shoulders

French Blue

Fifties - a pale shade of blue popular for men's suit jackets and dress shirts

Petal Pushers

Fifties - casual pants cropped just below the knee for women and men

Pillbox Hat

Fifties - classic round, brimless hat that can be worn forward or on back of the head

Swing Coat

Fifties - full length coat that had wide width at the hem and hung straight from the shoulders

Circle Skirt

Fifties - fully round skirts usually worn with crinolines by girls and teenagers

Bomber's jacket

Fifties - men's short leather or fabric jacket with high pockets and banded bottom

Bikini

Fifties - women's two piece swimsuit of the late 1940s with a bandeau or bra-cut top and low waisted bottom; men's low-rise brief style of swimsuit of the late 1950s

Ballet Slippers

Fifties - women's wide, flat slip-on shoes with no heel

Stilettos

Fifties -women's shoes with thin, high spiked heels

L-85

Fourties - American restrictions for the use of fabric during the war

Utility Clothes

Fourties - British Board of Trade special styles created each year that restricted the amount of materials a fabric manufacturer could employ in style, limited each firm to fifty styles per year and Board issued coupons to consumers - 40 per year for clothing-one suit took 18 coupons

Montgomery Beret

Fourties - a dashing military beret associated with the British general Montgomery

Eisenhower Jacket

Fourties - a waist-length military tunic in khaki worn by General ______________ during WW2 and adapted for civilian use after the war, had two hidden pleats at back armsceye

Pencil Skirt

Fourties - cut in one straight line from hips to hem, invented due to clothing rations - uses least amount of material

Crew cut

Fourties - haircut was cropped very close to the head except on top where it made a bristly stand of less than an inch

Shoulder Bag

Fourties - handbag of any shape or size with long strap/chain to place over shoulder, invented to allow women to have more space to store bandages, medicine, etc

Zoot suit

Fourties - made in garish colors and outsize patterns and were always finished off by a large bow tie and a huge key chain that hung almost to the floor

Pageboy Hairdo

Fourties - straight hair should length or shorter, with ends curled under at the back and sides very smoothly, derived from hair of medieval "pages", first stage of the training of knights

Wedgie

Fourties -a shoe having a very thick sole and a wedge-shaped heel

Poncho

Sixties - a large square or rectangular piece of fabric in gay color with a hole cut out of the middle for the head; originally worn by Mexican peasant which became popular in the USA as a rain garment or colorful outer wrap in soft handwoven woolens in the 60's and early 70's

Mini Skirt

Sixties - A very short skirt that ends well above the knees. Mary Quant is regarded as inventor of the mini and Courreges adapted the look for his haute couture designs

Monokini

Sixties - provocative swimsuit with no top

Body Stocking

Sixties - Figure hugging suit, similar to sheer or knitwear pantyhose except it covers the entire body. Launched by Andre Courreges

Mod clothing

Sixties - a contraction of "modern" clothing used to apply to the exaggerated, smartly cut clothes for young people that came out of Carnaby Street, london

Hippies

Sixties - a cult of young people of 60's devoted to a primitive look through the use of old or worn clothes and accessories. they usually are associated with long hair, mysticism, beards, bare feet and alienation from conventional society

Sassoon Cut

Sixties - a hairstyle named after Vidal Sassoon, who became the most fashionable hairdresser in London in 60's. In his hands the permanent wave straightened into a fall which stood high over the forehead with long ends on the shoulder. often he curtained the forehead with a deep fringe of straight hair in a five point cut

Nehru Jacket

Sixties - a mohammadan fitted tunic with low standing collar instead of lapels worn by east indian men of the punjab and kashmir regions; introduced into london and paris for styles for men in the 60's and made of all manner of fabric from velvet to brocade from wool and cotton to silk. The name comes from Prime Minister Nehru of India who popularized the style

Flower Children

Sixties - a name given to anit-establishment young 60's who left their homes to congregate in places like Haight Ashbury district in San Francisco; so called because they often adorned their deliberately shabby jeans and t-shirts with flowers.

Pea Coat

Sixties - copy of US sailor's hip length, straight, double breasted navy-blue wool coat with notched lapels, vertical slash pockets and a back vent. Inspiration for Yves Saint Laurent coats

Op Art

Sixties - designs based on optical illusion created through playing with simple geometric forms in primary colors

Moon girl style

Sixties - in 1963 and 1964 courreges in paris introduced this style as a reflection of the great interest in the space program that was supposed to reach the moon by the end of the decade. representaitve styles always in white or silver were made of silver sequins pants, white vinyl jackets and white vinyl boots

Pants suit

Sixties - late 60's early 70's, trouser suits for women coincided with rise of interest in women's liberation movement and the support for Equal Rights Act. such suits had fitted jackets that were tailored much like a male suit with matching vest or contrasting vest and matching trousers

Caftan

Sixties - originally a long coat-like garment worn by both sexes in the Levant and adopted as a robe by members of the Mohammedan priesthood. the variation introduced in 60's was more like the egyptian robe, consisting of a great square of material front and back reaching from wrist to wrist and sewn on the shoulders and sides to make a great flowing gown, worn or belted or unbelted

Micro Mini

Sixties - shortest of the mini shirt- came just below the crotch and was usually worn with tights and boots

Tent shape

Sixties - this full spreading line for women was first introduced by Balenciaga in 1951 and as the A-line of YSL in early 60's; it came back in full force in 1967 in the tent silhouetted evening gowns of Madame Gres

Levis

Sixties - tight fitting denim trouser with U-shaped crotch, worn by boys and young men, originally part of western cowboy outfit. symbol of the natural, outdoor, shabby look of the hippies and flower children, who often cut, fringed and remade pants and denim jackets as well as in-setting them with colored fabric and embroidering them with colored thread and yarn

Beatle Boot

Sixties - updated version of the congress boot. beatles added a pointed toe called the winkle-picker toe

Gaucho Suit

Sixties - woman's pantsuit with wide-legged calf-length culottes and a matching bolero, frequently made in leather. Full sleeved blouse worn under the sleeveless bolero. Introduced by Jackie Kennedy when she wore an Andalusian riding suit on her trip to Spain

Afro Hairdo

Sixties -a frizzed-out halo of hair that surrounded the head in a great bush of hair. first worn by american blacks in 60's to establish connection with their roots in Africa, later adopted by both male and female whites to give an anti-establishment look. style was achieved by heavy back combing of the hair

Vinyl

Sixties -a trademarked American made couture fabric introduced in 1965. originally used for waterproof umbrellas and raincoats, it was soon seen in boots, jackets and belts

Granny Dress

Sixties -ankle length dress styled with high round collar or choker neckline, long or short sleeves and slightly gathered shirt, sometimes with ruffle at the hem, made calico fabric in a small print and trimmed with ruffles; worn by child or young person in 60s-copied style from grandmother or "granny"

Braless look

Sixties -during the revolution in styles that erupted among young people in the 60's with emphasis on natural, sensuous bodies there was a movement to throw out the brassiere as a symbol of establishment repression. look was achieved by not wearing a bra or wearing thin flexible barely there bra

Palazzo Pajamas

Sixties -evening outfits with soft jackets, tunic, and trousers that were introduced for evening wear in the early 60's.

Turtleneck

Sixties -originally a masculine or feminine knitted jersey sweater with a long straight tubelike collar which rolled down to the height desired. in the 1960's such pullovers in a very soft jersey came into fashion for men with suits and sports jackets and has continued in popularity as a replacement for shirt and tie

Velcro

Sixties -the trade name of non metallic overlapping fastener of 2 strips of fabric faced with tiny nylon hooks which pressed together hold fast. Invented by Georges de M of Switzerland

English drape suit

Thirties - 1930s British variation of the three-piece suit, in which the cut is full and 'drapes'. The design of the athletic aesthetic of the drape suit is attributed to the London tailor Frederick Scholte. The new suit cut was softer and more flexible in construction than the suits of the previous generation; extra fabric in the shoulder and armscye, light padding, a slightly nipped waist, and fuller sleeves tapered at the wrist resulted in a cut with folds, or "drapes," front and back that created the illusion of the broad-shoulders and tight-waist "V" figure of the very fit. The main difference between American and British version of the drape suit was in the treatment of the sleeve-head at the shoulderline. The American version had a "smooth roll of sleeve fabric where it was stitched into the armscye" whereas the English version had "tiny puckers from stitch tucks". In addition, the American drape suit has a very tapered in waist that helps to exaggerate the bulk in the chest and shoulders, and causes the skirt line to appear flared (Gentleman's Gazette, par. 5). In comparison, the English version has a less tapered in waist with a straight skirt line

Loafer

Thirties - A Norwegian moccasin style of leather shoe introduced in USA, has basic low heel and moccasin apron front, it is a slip-on shoe without fastening.

Peasant blouse

Thirties - A design traditional for centuries in central and Eastern Europe introduced to West and fashionable blouse in 1930s, blouse is made of sheer white fabric such as silk and is cut very full and with full long sleeves. It is stitched with smocking at waist, wrist and neck and is embroidered in geometric and floral designs. The stitching is done in colored silks, cotton or wool.

Anorak

Thirties - A hooded, long-sleeved, hip-length garment worn for sports such as mountain walking, skiing, and sailing. It is made of light-weight, water repellent material and may be padded for extra warmth and wind resistance. It was derived from Eskimo sealskin garment called an anorak, also called a parka.

Tyrolean Hat

Thirties - A ladies fashion based on colored felt hat of Austrian Tyrol which was worn with braid trim brim turned up at one side and with feather and cord trimming.

Halter Neckline

Thirties - A style introduced in 1930s, neckline is high in front a pt throat and usually tied orfinished at nape of neck leaving the shoulders and back bare, used at 1st for bathing then transitioned to evening and day wear.

Dirndl skirt

Thirties - Austrian peasant style which became popular in later 1930s- skirt was very fully gathered into a tight waistband.

Aloha Shirt

Thirties - Brightly colored and patterned shirt of Hawaiian origin popular in the USA beach and sportswear from the 1930s; worn outside the trousers or trucks, it had short sleeves and patch breast pockets.

Trench coat

Thirties - Coat created by Thomas Burberry during WWI for soldiers that was made of chemically finishes, water-repellent cotton gabardine. After the war the style became all-purpose civilian coat with double breasted and convertible collar, large lapels, fabric belt, back vent, extra hanging yoke in back over shoulders and front flap on right shoulder. (1920s) Classic style of rain-proof coat worn belted, with collar and reveres based upon WWI officers coats worn in the trench warfare when in had buttoned epaulets; usually a double yoke at shoulder that was loose at the bottom.

Shirtwaist dress

Thirties - Developed from shirtwaist blouse; the blouse extended to dress length and buttoned down the front to the waist level where it is belted.

Polo coat

Thirties - Double or single breasted camel, vicuna or camel colored wool coat with a notched collar and tied with a sash. Introduced in the 1920s for men's spectator sports, women adopted in the 1930s, now classic coat style

Panama Straw Hat

Thirties - Hat of Ecuadorian origin, made of plaited leaves of toquilla palm, light colored, breathable, light weight hat worn with summer weight suits of linen or silk

Huaraches

Thirties - Mexican sandal, originally all leather, in 1930s the sole was rubber from rubber car tires.

Bush shirt

Thirties - Originally designed for use in African bush, Made from heavy, usually water repellent, material. It had tailored collar, four large patch pockets with buttoned flaps and was belted at the waist.

Halo Hat

Thirties - Style of hat worn on back of the head and had a deep upturned brim.

Cuban Heel

Thirties - Style of heel of medium height tapering slightly towards the ground.

Stetson

Thirties - The wide brimmed high crowned hat of American western cowboy; design by Philadelphian John B. for his western visit for protection. Upon coming home he manufactured it and distributed it to trading posts out west.

Uplift bra

Thirties - a brassiere design to delineate, hold and raise the breasts. A style which began just before the 1930s but which attained its apogee in the "sweater girl" image of 1950s. Circular stitching of this cups was used to create and support the high pointed breast line.

Bermuda shorts

Thirties - articular type of short trousers, worn as semi-casual attire by both men and women. The hem, which can be cuffed or un-cuffed, is around 1 inch above the knee.

Chukka Boot

Thirties - calfskin or suede boot that was ankle high, open laced, unlined, 2-3 pairs of eyelets, thin leather soles, rounded toes and upper made in two parts, quarters sewn on top of vamp

Henley (Wallace Beery shirt)

Thirties - collarless pullover shirt with 10 centimeter long placket beneath round neckline with usually 2 to 5 buttons, sleeves long or short, may be made of any fabric but more typically cotton knit or thermal knit. Origin from rowers in English town of _______-on-Thames.

Snap brim fedora

Thirties - hat brim that can be turned up or down, usually a man's fedora of felt and worn with the brim turned up in back and down in front. (1930s) A soft felt hat having a medium crown and brim pulled down in front in a jaunty manner.

Safari Jacket (Bush Shirt)

Thirties - originally designed for use in African bush, made from heavy, usually water repellent material. It had tailored collar, four large patch pockets with buttoned flaps and was belted at the waist. Shirt was lighter weight version of jacket

Snood

Thirties - revived as a mode of the 1930s when it was often attached to the back of a small hat which was perched on the front or top of then head.

Cowboy shirts

Thirties - shirts that resembled the west with embroider with western motifs

Oxfords

Thirties - shoe characterized by shoelace eyelets tabs that are attached under the vamp or closed lace system, originally plain leather for formal wear, they evolved into range of styles for formal and casual wear.

Sarong

Thirties -A scarf wraparound skirt of colorful fabric with Polynesian designs

Windsor Cap

Twenties - or flat cap is a rounded cap with a small stiff brim in front. - Cloths used to make the cap include wool, tweed (most common), and cotton. Less common materials may include leather, linen or corduroy. The inside of the cap is commonly lined for comfort and warmth. Popular with Prince of Wales in 1920s.

Windsor Tie

Twenties - regular man's necktie tied in four-in-hand style with more complicated knot named after the Prince of Wales/Duke of Windsor who made it popular in 1920s

Envelope bag

Twenties - regular sized handbag without handle, frequently made in envelope style.

Windsor Collar

Twenties -Collar with points spread further apart to accommodate the Winsor knot

Polo Coat

Twenties -Double or single breasted camel, vicuna or camel colored wool coat with a notched collar and tied with a sash. Introduced in the 1920s for men's spectator sports, women adopted in the 1930s, now classic coat style

Teddies

Twenties -Straight cut garment of the 1920s, combining a camisole with short slip, or long vest with underpants; wide strap is attached to the front and back at the hem thus making separate leg openings for each leg

Slipover sweater

Twenties -Sweater with round, crew or V-neck pulled on over the head as contrasted with cardigan or coat sweater which opens down the front

galoshes (artics)

Twenties -Waterproof ankle-high boot worn over shoe, fastened with a strap, buckle or zipper

Eton Crop

Twenties -Woman's extremely short, shingled in back and short on the sides. Popularized by British actress Beatrice Lillie in mid 1920a, also call gamin or garcon or boyish bob.