OCE Ch. 8

Of the following statements about ocean waves, which is/are true? Choose all that apply. -Ocean waves occur only at the air/water interface. -Ocean waves can be described by their period, wavelength, and height. -Ocean waves can be classified by the depth of water in which they move. -Ocean waves can be classified by the force that created them. -Ocean waves involve the transport of water across ocean basins.

-Ocean waves can be described by their period, wavelength, and height. -Ocean waves can be classified by the depth of water in which they move. -Ocean waves can be classified by the force that created them.

During a visit to the beach, you get in a small rubber raft and paddle out beyond the surf zone. You become tired, so you stop and take a rest. Describe the movement of your raft beyond the surf zone. -The raft moves in a circle, and it returns to essentially the same place. -The raft will move toward shore along with the water particles underneath the raft. -The raft's net movement is not toward the shore compared to the surf zone. -The raft moves up and down vigorously due to the breaking of waves that are taller than waves in the surf zone.

-The raft moves in a circle, and it returns to essentially the same place. -The raft's net movement is not toward the shore compared to the surf zone.

Of the following statements about tsunami, which is/are true? Choose all that apply. -The tsunami warning system uses seismic waves and deep-ocean pressure sensors to detect tsunami. -A tsunami suddenly appears as a huge breaking wave as it arrives at the shoreline. -At the coast, a tsunami looks like a suddenly occurring high or low tide, which is why they are misnamed "tidal waves." -Tsunami are undetectable by ships in the open ocean. -Tsunami have a very long wavelength, so they travel at very high speeds (equivalent to the speed of a jet airplane). -If you are at a beach and the water suddenly drains out away from shore, it is safe to go explore the newly exposed land.

-The tsunami warning system uses seismic waves and deep-ocean pressure sensors to detect tsunami. -At the coast, a tsunami looks like a suddenly occurring high or low tide, which is why they are misnamed "tidal waves." -Tsunami are undetectable by ships in the open ocean. -Tsunami have a very long wavelength, so they travel at very high speeds (equivalent to the speed of a jet airplane).

Of the following bathymetric conditions, which one(s) would likely produce spilling breakers? Choose all that apply. -a steeply sloping, sandy bottom -a gently sloping, rocky bottom -deep water adjacent to an abrupt shallow coral reef -a steeply sloping, rocky bottom -a gently sloping, sandy bottom

-a gently sloping, rocky bottom -a gently sloping, sandy bottom

Of the following statements about ocean waves, which one(s) describe wave period? Choose all that apply. -the horizontal distance between adjacent wave crests -the inverse of wave frequency -the vertical distance between a wave crest and an adjacent trough -wave height divided by wavelength -the time it takes for one full wavelength to pass a given point -the number of waves that pass a given point in a certain amount of time

-the inverse of wave frequency -the time it takes for one full wavelength to pass a given point

What is the speed in meters per second of a deep water wave with a wavelength of 1.5 meters?

1.53 meters per second

A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least:

1/2 of the wavelength

On average how many supertankers or containerships are reported missing each year without a trace?

10

You live on an island in the Pacific. An earthquake of magnitude 8.5 off the coast of Japan, 8000 km away, generates a tsunami with a wavelength of 200 km. The average water depth between your island and Japan is 4900 m. If a tsunami warning is issued for your island, how many hours will you have before the waves arrive?

10.14

What is the speed in meters per second of a deep water wave with a wavelength of 3.5 meters?

2.34 meters per second

What is the speed in meters per second of a deep water wave with a wavelength of 5 meters?

2.8 meters per second

In the open ocean, 1 wave in ________ will be over twice the height of the wave average.

23

Waves from separate sea areas move away as swell and produce an interference pattern when they come together. If Sea A has wave heights of 2 meters and Sea B has wave heights of 5 meters, what would be the height of waves resulting from destructive interference?

3 meters

In the open ocean, 1 wave in ________ will be four times as high as the height of the wave average.

300,000

Waves from separate sea areas move away as swell and produce an interference pattern when they come together. If Sea A has wave heights of 1.5 meters and Sea B has wave heights of 3.5 meters, what would be the height of waves resulting from constructive interference?

5 meters

Rogue waves are created along the "Wild Coast" off the southeast coast of ________, where the Agulhas Current flows directly against large Antarctic storm waves.

Africa

A vast majority of all large tsunami are generated in the ________ Ocean.

Pacific

Which of the following best describes how scientists help the public prepare for an earthquake event?

Scientists cannot predict when exactly an earthquake will occur, but they can identify tectonically active areas that are likely to produce earthquake activity and let the public know they are in an earthquake-prone area.

Judge the following sentence according to the criteria given below: Transform faults do not generally generate tsunami BECAUSE the side-to-side movement of these faults does not change the volume of the ocean basin.

The assertion and the reason are both correct, and the reason is valid.

Judge the following sentence according to the criteria given below: Many people call tsunami "tidal waves" BECAUSE they are related to the tides.

The assertion is correct, but the reason is incorrect.

While you are playing Frisbee in the surf zone with another person, your friend watches while sitting on the beach nearby. After a while, you look up at the beach and realize you are no longer directly in front of your friend, who remained stationary on the beach all the while—you are still in the surf zone, but 30 to 40 yards from where you started. What is the correct reason for this movement?

Waves were coming at the shore at an angle. The longshore current moved downstream to that angle and pushed you in that direction.

Ripple like clouds in the sky are an example of ________ waves.

atmospheric

As a wave approaches shore, its characteristics change by

decreasing speed, increasing steepness

The majority of tsunami are caused by underwater

fault movement

Which of the following caused the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004?

fault movement

The height of a wave depends upon:

fetch, wind duration, and wind speed

Refraction causes headlands to be areas of ________ surfing and sites of ________.

good; erosion

In general the restoring force for wind-generated waves is:

gravity

As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height:

increases and its wavelength decreases

Tidal movement, turbidity currents, wind stress, and even passing ships at the surface create ________ waves.

internal

A disadvantage shared by wave, solar and wind energy is that

it is not available on demand, and there currently is no viable way to store the energy

Sound travels as ________ waves.

longitudinal

________ waves also known as push-pull waves.

longitudinal

Which of the following is the least frequent cause of a tsunami in recent centuries?

meteorite impacts

Ocean waves in motion are classified as ______ waves.

orbital

Waves at the ocean surface are ________ waves.

orbital

Ocean surface waves are:

orbital waves

The time between two successive waves is called the:

period

Which type of breaker has a curling crest that moves over an air pocket?

plunging breaker

Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming curling crests over air pockets are called:

plunging breakers

Submarines sometimes ride out heavy storms in deep water by submerging. That is a practical application of utilizing the

principle of decreasing orbital motion with depth

A tsunami is considered to be a:

shallow water wave

Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces:

smaller waves

Which type of breaker is a turbulent mass of air and water that runs down the front slope of the wave as it breaks?

spilling breaker

If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for?

spilling breakers

A wave will begin to break when:

steepness = 1.7

Which type of breaker forms waves the present the greatest challenge to body surfers?

surging breaker

Which type of breaker forms when the waves build up and break right at the shoreline?

surging breaker

Examine the five words and/or phrases and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases. Choose the one option that does not fit the pattern. -Plunging breaker -Swell -Spilling breaker -Surf -Surging breaker

swell

________ waves also known as side-to-side waves.

transverse

The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to:

water depth

Which one of the following variables is necessary to determine the speed of shallow-water waves?

water depth

"Whitecaps" form when

water steepness reaches a ratio of 1:7

The depth below the surface where the circular orbits become so small that movement is negligible is called the

wave base

The number of wave crests passing a fixed location per unit of time is called the

wave frequency

The time it takes one full wave to pass a fixed position is called the

wave period

An unintended consequence of the jetty that protects the harbor entrance at Newport Harbor, California is a wave pattern that has crippled and killed many body surfers due to:

wave reflection

Waves converge on headlands due to:

wave refractions

The horizontal distance between wave crest to crest is called the

wavelength

The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to:

wavelength

Wave speed is equal to:

wavelength divided by period

The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to:

wavelength/2

The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:

westerlies

Conditions for the development of wave energy are most optimal along ________ shores in the ________ Hemisphere.

western; Southern

Most ocean waves form as a result of:

winds blowing across the ocean surface