OCE1001 - Chapter 8

The horizontal distance between wave crest to crest is called the ________. a. wave height b. wave period c. wavelength d. wave frequency e. wave steepness

c

The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the: a. equatorial doldrums. b. horse latitudes. c. westerlies. d. trade winds. e. polar regions.

c

The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to: a. wavelength/20. b. wavelength/2. c. wavelength/wave height. d. wave height/wavelength. e. wave height/wave period.

b

What causes wave refraction? a. Offshore sand bars that cause waves to break offshore. b. Winds that blow for a long time offshore create an area where waves are generated. c. Water piles up against a beach and then flows offshore against incoming waves. d. The part of a wave in shallow water slows down, causing the wave to bend and line up nearly parallel to the shore. e. A wave strikes a shallowly submerged underwater object.

d

What type of plate boundary are most tsunamis associated with? a. transform plate boundaries b. convergent plate boundaries c. divergent plate boundaries

b

Conditions for the development of wave energy are most optimal along ________ shores in the ________ Hemisphere. a. western; Southern b. eastern; Northern c. western; Northern d. eastern; Southern

a

How are wave period and wavelength related? a. Waves with shorter periods have shorter wavelengths. b. Waves with longer periods have shorter wavelengths. c. Waves with shorter periods have longer wavelengths.

a

How does wave refraction at headlands affect deposition and erosion? a. Wave refraction at the headland increases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. b. Wave refraction at the headland decreases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. c. Wave refraction at the headland increases deposition at the headland and causes erosion in adjacent bays. d. Wave refraction at the headland decreases deposition at the headland and causes erosion in adjacent bays.

a

In the open ocean, 1 wave in ________ will be over twice the height of the wave average. a. 23 b. 75 c. 300,000 d. 50,000 e. 1175

a

Most ocean waves form as a result of: a. winds blowing across the ocean surface. b. density differences between water layers. c. Earth's rotation. d. landslides. e. seismic events.

a

Ocean surface waves are: a. orbital waves. b. transverse waves. c. longitudinal waves. d. capillary waves. e. refracted waves.

a

Refraction causes headlands to be areas of ________ surfing and sites of ________. a. good; erosion b. poor; erosion c. good; deposition d. poor; deposition

a

Ripple like clouds in the sky are an example of ________ waves. a. atmospheric b. splash c. tidal d. turbidity e. internal

a

Sound travels as ________ waves. a. longitudinal b. orbital c. reflective d. refractive e. transverse

a

Waves converge on headlands due to: a. wave refraction. b. destructive interference. c. wave reflection. d. wave diffraction. e. constructive interference.

a

Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming curling crests over air pockets are called: a. plunging breakers. b. spilling breakers. c. swells. d. gravity waves. e. surf.

a

What is refraction? a. the bending of waves due to a change in wave velocity b. the bending of waves due to a change in wave phase c. the bending of waves due to a change in wave amplitude d. the bending of waves due to a change in wavelength

a

What is the wave base? a. the lower limit of wave-induced motion in the water b. the closest distance a wave can get to shore before breaking c. the upper limit of wave-induced motion in the water d. the furthest distance a wave can get to shore before dissipating

a

What is the wave period? a. the time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point b. the highest part of the wave c. the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs d. the lowest part of the wave e. the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave

a

What occurs more often, pure destructive, pure constructive, or mixed interference? a. Mixed interference b. Pure constructive interference c. Pure destructive interference

a

What results when two waves, in phase and with the same wavelength, interact? a. A wave with an amplitude that is the sum of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. b. A wave with an amplitude that is the multiplication of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. c. A wave with an amplitude that is the difference between the amplitudes of the initial two waves. d. A wave with an amplitude that is the larger of the amplitudes of the initial two waves.

a

When will perfect constructive interference occur for waves that are in phase and moving at the same velocity? a. When waves with identical wavelengths interfere. b. When waves with identical amplitudes interfere. c. When waves with short wavelengths interfere. d. When waves with large amplitudes interfere.

a

Which type of breaker has a curling crest that moves over an air pocket? a. Plunging breaker b. Spilling breaker c. Standing breaker d. Surging breaker e. Swelling breaker

a

Why do ships at sea tend not to notice tsunamis? a. Tsunamis in deep water have small wave height and long wavelength. b. Tsunamis in deep water have large wave height and short wavelength. c. Tsunamis in deep water have large wave height and long wavelength. d. Tsunamis in deep water have small wave height and short wavelength.

a

________ waves also known as push-pull waves. a. Longitudinal b. Orbital c. Reflective d. Refractive e. Transverse

a

Which of the following are names for large ocean waves that can be created by constructive interference? Choose all that apply. a. Rogue waves b. Freak waves c. Shipwrecker waves d. Superwaves e. Havoc waves

a, b, d

Of the following statements about tsunami, which is/are true? Choose all that apply. a. Tsunami have a very long wavelength, so they travel at very high speeds (equivalent to the speed of a jet airplane). b. A tsunami suddenly appears as a huge breaking wave as it arrives at the shoreline. c. The tsunami warning system uses seismic waves and deep-ocean pressure sensors to detect tsunami. d. Tsunami are undetectable by ships in the open ocean. e. If you are at a beach and the water suddenly drains out away from shore, it is safe to go explore the newly exposed land. f. At the coast, a tsunami looks like a suddenly occurring high or low tide, which is why they are misnamed "tidal waves."

a, c, d, f

A tsunami is considered to be a: a. capillary wave. b. shallow water wave. c. reflected wave. d. deep-water wave. e. refracted wave.

b

A wave will begin to break when: a. distance from shore < wavelength. b. steepness = 1:7. c. water depth = wave height. d. water depth = wavelength/20. e. wavelength < wave height.

b

As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height: a. increases and its wavelength remains the same. b. increases and its wavelength decreases c. increases and its frequency decreases. d. decreases and its steepness decreases. e. decreases and its wavelength increases.

b

How are tsunamis generated? a. through displacement of the seafloor above water b. through displacement of the seafloor under water c. through creation of the seafloor under water d. through creation of the seafloor above water

b

How does water move as waves pass? a. Water moves linearly in the opposite direction to wave movement. b. Water moves in a circle in the same direction as wave movement. c. Water moves in a circle in the direction opposite to wave movement. d. Water moves linearly in the same direction as wave movement.

b

The depth below the surface where the circular orbits become so small that movement is negligible is called the ________. a. wave period b. wave base c. waveform d. wave frequency e. wave height

b

The height of a wave depends upon: a. wind duration. b. fetch, wind duration, and wind speed. c. wind duration and wind speed. d. fetch and wind speed. e. fetch.

b

The number of wave crests passing a fixed location per unit of time is called the ________. a. wave base b. wave frequency c. waveform d. wave period e. wavelength

b

Waves at the ocean surface are ________ waves. a. longitudinal b. orbital c. reflective d. refractive e. transverse

b

What is a tsunami? a. a series of water waves that travel away from a fault in all directions at low speed b. a series of water waves that travel away from a fault in all directions at high speed c. a series of water waves that travel toward a fault in all directions at high speed d. a series of water waves that travel toward a fault in all directions at low speed

b

What is the crest of a wave? a. the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs b. the highest part of the wave c. the lowest part of the wave d. the time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point e. the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave

b

What is the trough of a wave? a. the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs b. the lowest part of the wave c. the highest part of the wave d. the time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point e. the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave

b

What triggers a wave traveling across the ocean to finally release its energy? a. Waves get deeper as they progress across the ocean, until they can no longer contain their energy. b. The wave begins to interact with the sea floor as it moves into shallower water. c. Increases in wind speed push the wave into the surf zone. d. Breaking waves are formed when storm fronts produce wind energy out in the open ocean. e. Waves continually pick up speed as they rush into the surf zone and break.

b

Which ocean is associated with most tsunamis? a. Indian Ocean b. Pacific Ocean c. Arctic Ocean d. Atlantic Ocean

b

Which type of breaker is a turbulent mass of air and water that runs down the front slope of the wave as it breaks? a. Plunging breaker b. Spilling breaker c. Standing breaker d. Surging breaker e. Swelling breaker

b

Why do ocean waves bend around headlands? a. The waves are moving faster just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. b. The waves are moving more slowly just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. c. The waves have longer wavelength just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. d. The waves have shorter wavelength just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend.

b

Why does the wave height of a tsunami increase as the tsunami enters shallow water? a. In shallow water, the wind driving the tsunami must push a larger water column. b. In shallow water, the energy of the tsunami must be contained within a smaller water column. c. In shallow water, the energy of the tsunami must be contained within a larger water column. d. In shallow water, the wind driving the tsunami must push a smaller water column.

b

Of the following bathymetric conditions, which one(s) would likely produce spilling breakers? Choose all that apply. a. deep water adjacent to an abrupt shallow coral reef b. a gently sloping, rocky bottom c. a steeply sloping, rocky bottom d. a gently sloping, sandy bottom e. a steeply sloping, sandy bottom

b, d

A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least: a. wave height. b. the fetch. c. wavelength. d. 1/2 of the wavelength. e. 1/20 of the wavelength.

d

A vast majority of all large tsunami are generated in the ________ Ocean. a. Antarctic b. Indian c. Atlantic d. Pacific e. Southern

d

In general the restoring force for wind-generated waves is: a. surface tension of water molecules. b. cohesion of water molecules. c. wind. d. gravity. e. seismic activity.

d

Rogue waves are created along the "Wild Coast" off the southeast coast of ________, where the Agulhas Current flows directly against large Antarctic storm waves. a. Australia b. China c. South America d. Africa e. Antarctica

d

The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to: a. wave frequency. b. wavelength. c. wave height. d. water depth. e. wave period.

d

The time between two successive waves is called the: a. trough. b. height. c. frequency. d. period. e. crest.

d

What does the term "in phase" refer to? a. Waves in phase have different wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-peak and trough-to-trough b. Waves in phase have different wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-trough and trough-to-peak c. Waves in phase have identical wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-trough and trough-to-peak d. Waves in phase have identical wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-peak and trough-to-trough

d

What type of breaker would pose the most danger to people playing or swimming in the surf zone? a. spilling breakers b. curling breakers c. gradual breakers d. surging breakers e. plunging breakers

d

A disadvantage shared by wave, solar and wind energy is that ___________________________. a. the power produced must be transmitted long distances from where it is produced to where it is consumed b. the energy tends to be concentrated in areas of high latitude and is not readily available to tropical countries c. it is not available on demand, and there currently is no viable way to store the energy d. governments are unwilling to subsidize renewable forms of energy e. installations must be protected from the very energy that they collect

c

As a wave approaches shore, its characteristics change by _____________________. a. increasing speed, decreasing steepness b. increasing speed, increasing steepness c. decreasing speed, increasing steepness d. decreasing speed, steepness is unchanged e. decreasing speed, decreasing steepness

c

Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces: a. rouge waves. b. swells. c. smaller waves. d. capillary waves. e. tsunamis.

c

How does wave amplitude change with depth in water? a. Wave amplitude increases as depth increases. b. Wave amplitude remains the same as depth increases. c. Wave amplitude decreases as depth increases.

c

Most of the year, and most of the time, the movement of sediment and water (longshore current) along the California coast is from __________. a. west to east b. south to north c. north to south d. east to west

c

Ocean waves in motion are classified as ______waves. a. rotational b. longitudinal c. orbital d. medial e. transverse

c

The majority of tsunami are caused by underwater ________. a. meteorite impacts b. turbidity currents c. fault movement d. volcanic eruptions e. avalanches

c

Tidal movement, turbidity currents, wind stress, and even passing ships at the surface create ________ waves. a. ocean b. turbidity c. internal d. splash e. tidal

c

What disturbing force is responsible for most ocean waves that eventually break on shore? a. massive migrations of marine animals rising to the surface b. gravitational attraction of the Moon c. storm-generated winds that blow across the surface d. impact of precipitation hitting the surface during strong storms e. tectonic movements generated from inside Earth

c

What is an interference pattern? a. The wavelength produced when two or more waves interact. b. The wavelength produced when a new wave is created. c. The wave pattern produced when two or more waves interact. d. The wave pattern produced when a new wave is created.

c

What is the relationship between wave base and wavelength? a. The depth of the wave base is twice the wavelength of the waves. b. The depth of the wave base is one-and-a-half times the wavelength of the waves. c. The depth of the wave base is one-half the wavelength of the waves. d. The depth of the wave base is two-thirds the wavelength of the waves. e. The depth of the wave base is three-quarters of the wavelength of the waves.

c

What is the wave height? a. the time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point b. the lowest part of the wave c. the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave d. the highest part of the wave e. the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs

c

What is the wavelength? a. the lowest part of the wave b. the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave c. the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs d. the time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point e. the highest part of the wave

c

Which of the following best describes a plunging breaker? a. releases its energy slowly over a long distance of the sea floor b. occurs on steep slopes and releases all of its energy quickly on the shoreline c. forms on moderately sloped shorelines to create curling crests d. forms in the deep ocean and releases its energy before reaching the shoreline e. releases its energy progressively from one end to the other

c

Will Sumatra experience another tsunami like the destructive one of December 2004? a. This is likely, because Sumatra is in the Pacific Ocean. b. This is unlikely, because Sumatra is near many ocean trenches. c. This is likely, because Sumatra is near many ocean trenches. d. This is unlikely, because Sumatra is in the Pacific Ocean.

c

Of the following statements about ocean waves, which is/are true? Choose all that apply. a. Ocean waves occur only at the air/water interface. b. Ocean waves involve the transport of water across ocean basins. c. Ocean waves can be classified by the force that created them. d. Ocean waves can be classified by the depth of water in which they move. e. Ocean waves can be described by their period, wavelength, and height.

c, d, e

Of the following statements about ocean waves, which one(s) describe wave period? Choose all that apply. a. the number of waves that pass a given point in a certain amount of time b. the horizontal distance between adjacent wave crests c. the inverse of wave frequency d. wave height divided by wavelength e. the vertical distance between a wave crest and an adjacent trough f. the time it takes for one full wavelength to pass a given point

c, f

When will perfect destructive interference occur? a. When two waves that are in-phase interfere. b. When two waves that have long wavelength interfere. c. When two waves that have low amplitude interfere. d. When two waves that are 180 degrees out-of-phase interfere.

d

Which of the following is the least frequent cause of a tsunami in recent centuries? a. Volcanic eruptions b. Landslides c. Fault movement d. Meteorite impacts

d

Which of the following statements about wave period is most accurate? a. Wave period is the inverse of wavelength. b. Wave period is the inverse of wave amplitude. c. Wave period is the inverse of wave height. d. Wave period is the inverse of wave frequency.

d

Which one of the following variables is necessary to determine the speed of shallow-water waves? Select only one answer. a. wave height b. period c. wavelength d. water depth e. wave steepness

d

Which type of breaker forms waves the present the greatest challenge to body surfers? a. Plunging breaker b. Spilling breaker c. Standing breaker d. Surging breaker e. Swelling breaker

d

Which type of breaker forms when the waves build up and break right at the shoreline? a. Plunging breaker b. Spilling breaker c. Standing breaker d. Surging breaker e. Swelling breaker

d

Why does wave height increase as waves enter shallow water? a. The wavelength of the wave must be contained within a larger water column in shallow water. b. The energy of the wave must be contained within a larger water column in shallow water. c. The wavelength of the wave must be contained within a smaller water column in shallow water. d. The energy of the wave must be contained within a smaller water column in shallow water.

d

"Whitecaps" form when _____________________. a. water depth is greater than 1/2 the wavelength b. waves are reflected off an obstruction c. a wave train overtakes another wave train d. waves approach the shore at an angle e. wave steepness reaches a ratio of 1:7

e

Examine the five words and/or phrases and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases. Choose the one option that does not fit the pattern. a. Plunging breaker b. Spilling breaker c. Surging breaker d. Surf e. Swell

e

If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for? a. swells b. gravity waves c. plunging breakers d. surf e. spilling breakers

e

In the open ocean, 1 wave in ________ will be four times as high as the height of the wave average. a. 23 b. 75 c. 50,000 d. 1175 e. 300,000

e

Submarines sometimes ride out heavy storms in deep water by submerging. That is a practical application of utilizing the ____________________. a. principle of decreasing orbital motion with depth b. thermohaline stratification c. wave refraction in deep water d. principle of constant proportions e. SOFAR channel for safe navigation

e

The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to: a. wave frequency. b. wave height. c. wave speed or celerity. d. water depth. e. wavelength.

e

The time it takes one full wave to pass a fixed position is called the ________. a. wave drift b. wavelength c. waveform d. wave frequency e. wave period

e

Wave refraction is __________. a. another name for a seismic sea wave or tsunami b. the bouncing back of wave energy c. also known as an internal wave d. the overlapping of different wave sets e. the bending of waves

e

Wave speed is equal to: a. wave height divided by period. b. wavelength divided by frequency. c. wave height divided by frequency. d. wavelength divided by fetch. e. wavelength divided by period.

e

What causes the three different types of breakers? a. erosion of the shoreline b. the intensity of the wind at the surface c. gravity d. the size of the approaching wave e. the steepness of the beach slope

e

________ waves also known as side-to-side waves. a. Longitudinal b. Orbital c. Reflective d. Refractive e. Transvers

e