PEIN Semester 1 Exam Review - BOWLING
shooting single pin spares
Single-pin spares to the right side of the head pin include the 3 or 9 pin, the 6 pin and the 10 pin. Stand to the far left and aim between the third and fourth arrows (counting from the right) to achieve the best angle, cross-lane, toward the corner pin. Once you determine the corner pin shot, the adjustment for the remaining spares is to move to the right, from the 10-pin position in the stance, in three-board increments to convert pins in the remaining columns based on their relation to the 10 pin.
head pin
The 1 pin
bucket
The 2-4-5-8 or 3-5-6-9 leave; sometimes called the dinner bucket.
big four
The 4-6-7-10 split.
double pinochle
The 4-6-7-10 split.
lily
The 5-7-10 split.
bed posts
The 7-10 split.
bowling approach length
The approach is 15 feet long. At the back of the approach are two sets of dots. These dots are used to help the bowler find a starting place each time he or she bowls. The bowler will adjust the starting point according to their personal stride during delivery. (The number of dots is not standard in bowling.)
pit
The area at the far end of the lane into which the pins are knocked in bowling or swept after bowling.
kickback
The board at the pit end of the lane that separates one lane from another.
alley
The bowling lane; not a preferred term today.
stance
The starting position. To find this, stand at the foul line facing away from the pins with your heels about two inches from the foul line and take four and one-half brisk walking steps. Turn around and face the pins to find the approximate distance you should stand behind the foul line. To find the place you should stand on the lane (center, right, or left) as you face the foul line, line up your right shoulder with the second arrow from the right side of the line (for a right-handed bowler). This should place your left foot three or four boards to the right of the center board on the lane.
lane
The surface on which the ball is bowled; preferred to the former term, alley.
four step approach
a right-handed bowler starts with the right foot. This causes the bowler to end on the proper foot, the left foot at the end of the approach. The right-handed bowler should walk to the foul line in four steps: right, left, right, left. The bowler's arms will move in sequence with the feet. The arm sequence is "out, down, back and follow through." By first observing other bowlers, you can see the flow and sequence of the walk and delivery of the ball.
3 basic types of releases
straight ball, hook, reverse ball
push away and first step
Push the ball away with both hands; step straight forward with the right foot simultaneously. At the end of the first step, the right knee should be slightly bent and the waist also bent forward slightly so that the right knee and right shoulder form a plumb line alignment over the right toe. If you have difficulty starting the push away of the ball and the right foot simultaneously, try moving the ball just before you start the step. The length of the push away will determine the length of the first step. A moderate-size step is better than one that is too long. At the end of the pushaway, the ball will begin to swing into the approach. The left hand comes away from the ball and should be extended slightly to the side to help maintain balance.
where to aim
Aim at the arrows. By aiming at different arrows and seeing the results, you will notice that you must adjust where you stand. This will help you learn about the angles needed to hit the pocket.
blow
An error, namely failure to make a spare when there is no split; same as an error.
dead ball
An ineffectively delivered ball that stimulates little pin action. Any ball rolled when the pins are set improperly or one bowled on the wrong alley.
second step
As this step makes contact with the floor, the ball should be down by the bowler's side, near the right leg. At the end of this, the ball should be directly below the right shoulder in the area close to and almost parallel with the right leg. Extending the left arm helps prevent the tendency to lower the right shoulder. Keep the shoulders level and at right angles to the intended initial direction of the ball. Let the weight of the ball swing freely; do not try to apply extra power or force with the arm.
follow through
Continue the right arm in the upward arc after the release in line with the intended initial direction of the ball. End this with the right hand between knee to shoulder high, and end it at the same height every time. Remember that this is a continuation of the pendulum arc starting with the push away and continuing down, back, down, and up.
fourth step
On this (left foot), the ball is released and the arm follows through. Step and slide straight ahead with the left foot, and at the same time allow the ball to swing downward and forward in the arc established on the backswing. Extend the left arm to the side and slightly backward to help maintain balance. The entire approach, arms in coordination with the feet, is an "out, down, back, and through" motion. At the end of this step and slide the left toe and the ball should reach the area slightly behind the foul line; at approximately the same time, the right arm should be fully extended with the ball slightly behind in an imaginary line drawn perpendicular from the middle of the left foot. The left knee should be bent and the waist also bent so that the left knee and left shoulder form a plumb alignment over the left foot. Keep the shoulders level and at right angles to the intended initial direction of the ball. Keep your eyes focused on the points of aim.
release
Let the ball go over the foul line; letting the thumb come out first and apply a slight but firm lift on the upswing by having the fingers maintain a firm grip on the ball. Keep your eyes on the target or point of aim. Maintain shoulders, hips and left foot in same alignment established at the end of fourth step and slide. Keep the right foot in contact with the floor. Do not raise up or reach out to the floor. Do not throw or pitch the ball onto the lane. Keep the knees bent. Keep the waist straight at the release.
conventional grip
Most bowlers will begin with this grip, because it feels more secure, and later change to the fingertip grip. In this, the fingers go into the holes up to the second joint in the middle finger. On a ball that is drilled for this grip, the finger holes are closer to the thumb hole, and are larger to accommodate the fingers up to the second joint. Once the fingers are in, the thumb should go into the hole all the way to the base of the thumb.
reactive resin balls
Newer bowling balls have an additive to the cover stock (the outside layer of the ball) called this, so the bowling centers have to put more oil on the lane to keep up with the traction of the average bowling ball. The particles added to their cover stock will add more traction between the ball and the lane to provide more hook for a bowler who has a hook release. They grip the lane better and hit harder than plastic balls. Bowling balls with this or particle cover stock are preferred.
plastic ball
One that any younger bowlers start with. Buying a less expensive ball that fits your hand is better than using a house ball that does not fit. The house balls provided by the bowling center are plastic; they do not hook much because plastic does not create much friction with the lane. Advanced bowlers should purchase a ball that can hook. Many bowlers do not realize the cover of the ball can make a big difference in their performance.
frame
One-tenth of a game. The square on the score sheet in which the score for a given frame is marked.
holding lane
A lane on which it is difficult to obtain a curve or hook; formerly called a holding alley.
slot lane
A lane on which strikes are easy to get.
backup lane
A lane on which the ball is inclined to veer to the right.
running lane
A lane that produces a more decided hook.
holding or stiff lane
A lane where the ball does not hook easily. This is apt to happen just after the lanes have been cleaned, oiled, and buffed—a process done daily. The oil makes the lane's surface wet and slippery, causing the ball to slide more before it begins to hook.
running lane
A lane where the ball hooks more easily. The surface of such lanes is usually dry, meaning that the constant traffic of the rolling balls over the lanes has dissipated the oil on the lane's surface.
strike
A legally bowled ball that knocks over all 10 pins on the first ball.
tap
A pin left standing after what appeared to be a good hit.
dutch 200
A score of 200 obtained by the alternate bowling of strikes and spares.
sleeper
A spare in which a pin is hidden behind another.
mark
A strike or spare.
kegler
A synonym for bowler, derived from the German word for pin, kegel.
thin
A term applied to a bowled ball that barely touches the head pin; sometimes called a light hit. The opposite is a full or heavy hit.
railroad
A term used by some for a split, or for certain kinds of splits.
gutter
A trough extending down each side of the lane from the foul line to the pit. An inaccurately bowled ball may roll into the gutter before it reaches the pins.
baby split
After the first delivered ball, the 3 and 10 pins remain standing for a right-handed bowler.
third step
After you move the ball out on step one and down on step two, the ball comes back on the third step and the right leg moves forward for the second time. The arm will reach the height of the back swing as the third step is taken with the right foot. "Back on step three." At the end of this, the ball should be at the height of the backswing. Usually between the hip and the shoulder. The right arm is fully extended backward in an arc that is perpendicular to the intended initial direction of the ball. The right knee should be slightly bent and the waist also bent forward slightly so that the right knee and right shoulder are centered over the right toe. Keep the shoulders level and at right angles to the intended initial direction of the ball. If you step straight ahead and do not twist the hips, the shoulders will not rotate, but stay square. Extending the left arm helps to maintain balance and tends to counteract the force resulting from the ball moving backwards. Do not let the ball swing above shoulder level. A backswing that is too high may be caused by (1) An over-extended push away. (2) Leaning too far forward at the waist. (3) Approaching too fast to the foul line. (4) Trying to add power or force to the ball.
how to get strikes
In the 1-3 pocket: (1) finding your best starting position; (2) assuming a good initial stance, holding the ball properly; (3) using a smooth and rhythmical approach; (4) releasing the ball properly with a slight, but firm lift with the two middle fingers and wrist; (5) following through with the right arm and hand, and (6) hitting your target.
fingertip grip
In this, the fingers go into the holes up to the first finger joint and the finger holes are drilled farther from the thumb compared to a conventional grip, and the holes are smaller, the size of just the fingertips from the first joint to the tip. Once the fingertips are in, the thumb should again go into the hole all the way to the base of the thumb. With both grips, the thumb exits the holes before the fingers during the release. In this grip, there is more roll on the ball. After your scores are consistently around 140, it will be easier to pick up spares more consistently and have more pin action on the ball's impact at the pocket with a fingertip grip. This grip will help you strike more pins on the first shot to leave easier spares with fewer pins left for the second roll of the ball.
grip pressure
Keep the hands relaxed. Do not squeeze the ball. The tension caused by squeezing makes it difficult for the thumb to exit first for a good release. The most common problem among bowlers is using excessive grip pressure. If you can push the ball away and let it swing freely for a loose swing, you have an adequate fit. Once you feel comfortable, try the fingertip grip and again push the ball away and let it swing freely. A good ball grip will allow you to put your hand into the ball properly and will promote the proper grip pressure. Maintain the grip pressure throughout the delivery of the ball. Power will come from body position at delivery and the wrist and hand motion at release.
converting the 6 pin spare
Keep the same target, between the third and fourth arrows. Move the feet to the right to change the angle toward the 6 pin. Move the feet three boards to the right from the stance position for the 10 pin. By keeping the same target and moving the feet to the right, the angle from the 10-pin shot will change so you can convert the 6-pin spare.
cherry
Knocking over or "chopping off" only the front pin or pins of a spare.
slow lanes
Lanes with surfaces that make it easy to hook or curve the ball.
The space or hole between the head pin and the 3 pin, for right-handed bowlers.
high board
A board in the lane which is higher than the others, making the lane defective.
spot bowler
A bowler who aims at a spot a certain distance from the foul line, over which he anticipates it will roll.
pin bowler
A bowler who aims directly at the pins when bowling.
three hundred bowler
A bowler who has bowled a perfect game, i.e., 300
bowling lane length
A bowling lane is 60 feet long from the foul line to the pins. The lane is made up of 39 boards. Right-handed bowlers count the boards from right to left; left-handed bowlers count the boards from left to right.
maple
A bowling pin.
line
A complete game as recorded on the score sheet.
brooklyn
A cross-over ball that usually hits to the left of center in the 1-2 pocket and results in a strike. (Also called a cross over)
graveyard
A defect or mark in a bowling lane, usually caused by wear. Tends to carry the ball into the gutter.
groove
A defect or mark in a bowling lane, usually caused by wear. Tends to carry the ball into the pocket.
history
1. Records indicate that forms of bowling may be traced back 7,000 years. Implements have been found in Egypt dating as far back as 3200 B.C., providing evidence that a game similar to modern bowling was played. The game may also be traced in early times through Europe and northern Italy, where wooden balls replaced the spherical stones formerly used. Later, the game of "nine-pins" developed in Germany, with Martin Luther as an enthusiast. During this time, the pins were set in a diamond shape and the basic rules of the game were developed.
history 2
2. Records indicate that after many years a tenth pin was added and the pins were set in a triangular shape. The first indoor bowling lanes are believed to have originated in England. Bowling was brought to America by the Dutch who settled in Manhattan Island, New York. The first alleys, which were outdoor clay strips, were established in 1626. The first record of an indoor match in the United States tells of a game played at the Knicker-Bocker alleys in New York City on January 1, 1840.
backup
A ball that fades away to the right for a right-handed bowler.
curve
A ball that has a wide sweeping arc; much more pronounced movement than a hook.
hook
A ball that starts out straight down the lane and then veers to the left for a right-handed bowler, or to the right for a left-handed bowler.
break
Failure to knock down all pins with two balls.
error
Failure to make a spare when no split was left by the previous ball. A dash (—) on the score sheet denotes this.
converting the 10 pin spare
For a right-handed bowler, the 10 pin is the corner pin. The corner-pin shot, or 10-pin shot, will serve as the point of reference for all other spares on the right side of the lane. To adjust for the other spares, determine an optimal angle for shooting the 10 pin to make effective adjustments for consistent success in converting these spares. To shoot the 10 pin with the optimal angle, stand approximately on board 35 on the far left side of the lane. Use a target between the third and fourth arrows. Open the shoulders toward the 10 pin.
hitting the pocket
For best results, the ball should make initial contact with the pocket rather than hitting the head pin straight on. The left-side pocket is between the 1 and 2 pins; the right-side pocket is between the 1 and 3 pins. By hitting the pocket, you will get better pin action, and more pins will be knocked down with the first shot. This will also leave easier spares. Most right-handed bowlers who roll a straight or hook release use the 1-3 pocket on the right and count the boards and arrows from the right. Bowlers who roll a reverse hook use the pocket on the opposite side and count the arrows from the opposite side of the lane. (The ball is rotating in the opposite direction.) The bowler will make adjustments to change the angle of the pocket considering the lane oil conditions. For open bowling and recreational league play, oil is applied in a basic pattern that will make the ball slide more in the center of the alley, less toward the gutters. The bowler will have to be aware of the oil and adjust for how much or how little the ball is hooking.
reverse hook
Hook that may come more naturally at first to a beginning bowler. Rotates in the direction opposite to a hook, so a right-handed bowler rotates the hand clockwise. Staying with this or a straight ball is an option, but learning to throw a hook will prove to be a better choice when attempting to pick up spares.
right side spares
The cross-lane theory of spare shooting will enable you to shoot at and pick up spares on the right side of the lane too. You can pick up right-side spares from the left side of the lane to create more accurate and consistent conversions. The corner pin shot will provide the point of reference for spares on the right. The corner pin for a right-handed bowler is the 10 pin. For the left-handed bowler, the 7 pin is the corner pin. For right-side spares, use a target between the third and fourth arrows. Start by determining the angle to use for shooting the 10 pin, then work back through the rack to the 6 pin, then the 3 and 9 pins. You can target between the third and fourth arrows for all spares on the right side.
span
The distance between the thumb and finger holes in a bowling ball.
lead off
The first player on a team to bowl.
spare
The knocking down of all 10 pins with two deliveries in a frame, designated by a diagonal mark ( / ).
foul line
The line that separates the approach from the lane.
approach
The method used by the bowler to move towards the foul line to release the ball. The area behind the foul line that must be at least 15¢ long.
leave
The number and location of the pins that remain standing after a ball is bowled.
spot
The place on a lane at which a bowler aims the ball and over which the bowler hopes it will roll.
anchor man
The player who bowls last on a team; usually the best bowler or the one who bowls best under competitive pressure.
hook
The preferred method of release for getting the best drive and power into the pins with the best pin action on impact. For a right-handed bowler, the ball rotates in a counter-clockwise direction into the 1-3 pocket, also called the right-side pocket. The wrist and hand motion creates a side roll for it. Roll the ball from behind and then turn the hand to the side as the thumb releases. Remember: Roll from behind, then counter-clockwise for a hook. At the beginning of the release, the hand is behind the ball, fingers positioned at approximately 6:00. The thumb position is approximately 1:00. To hook the ball, rotate the fingers in a counter-clockwise position to no more than 4:00. The fingers rotate around the thumb. For power, use your legs as discussed in Lesson Six, sliding the last step of delivery. To slide the last step, contact the floor with the toe first and transfer your body weight forward.
looper
The same as a hook.
bowling arrows
The seven arrows on the lane are spaced five boards apart and they are used as targets. The first arrow on the right is the fifth board, the second arrow is the tenth board, and so on. The dots a couple of feet into the lane are also used for targets. (The arrows are the preferred targets because they are farther from the foul line.) The seven dots at the foul line line up exactly with the arrows.
single pin spares
This angle involves picking up pins that are in the columns to the left of the head pin. These pins include 2, or 8 pin, the 4 pin and the 7 pin. Each pin is set in the same position each time at the same distance from the pocket. Change the angle to shoot each pin based on a basic formula. To adjust for the spare, move your feet to the right in increments of approximately 3 boards per column of pins to achieve enough angle to pick up the spare. To shoot a spare on the left side of the lane, use the strike line as the point of reference. Adjust your angle toward the spare from this point. Keep the same target as the strike shot. From the strike stance, move to the right to create enough angle to shoot at the spare. The farther the pin is from the pocket, the greater the angle is necessary to shoot at it. Remember to consider the amount of oil there is on the lane. (Generally there is more oil in the middle of the lane and less towards the gutters.)
turkey
Three strikes in a row.
multiple pin spares
To pick up multiple-pin spares, first identify the key pin. That is the pin that is the closest to you. Make the adjustments for that pin and convert the spare! With the 2 pin as the key pin, in combinations of 2-4, 2-5, 2-8, the basic adjustment will be approximately three boards to the right. With the 2-pin combinations that include 3 pins, the adjustment will be approximately three boards to the right. In all cases, the ball should contact the right side of the 2 pin. To fine-tune the angle for the 2-4 spare, make an adjustment that compromises the angle between shooting either pin as a single pin.
converting the 3 or 9 pin spare
To shoot the 3 or 9 pins, which are in the same column, move six boards to the right of the original 10-pin stance position. See Figure 10.6 on page 109. Keep the target between the third and fourth arrows. Move the feet six boards to change the angle to shoot through the 10-pin target, providing the angle to convert the 3- or 9-pin spare.
shooting the 7 pin spare
To shoot this, move nine boards to the right of the strike stance position. Keep the same target. The 7 pin is the farthest left on the lane, so you will need to adjust and stand the farthest right on the approach. Close your shoulders toward the 7 pin. Trust the angle set by your shoulders and follow through straight. Do not change your swing or the shot.
shooting the 4 pin spare
To shoot this, move six boards to the right from the original strike position. Keep the same target. Turn your shoulders toward the 4 pin to line up your swing.
Shooting the 2 or 8 pin spare
To shoot this, move the feet from the strike stance position three boards to the right. Keep the same target. Turn your shoulders to adjust your swing to the target line toward the pin.
double
Two strikes in succession.
equipment
When you go to a bowling center, you'll have a choice of dozens of balls ranging in weight from 8 to 16 pounds. Women usually use a ball weighing 10-12 pounds and men usually use a ball weighing 14-16 pounds. A few have only two finger-holes, which was very popular before World War II, but now the majority of balls have three holes. Some holes are small; others are large; some are close together; others are far apart. All of these considerations obviously will affect your grip. You should use as heavy a ball as you can deliver without effort.
good release
Where the thumb exits before the fingers to create roll on the ball.
