Restorative Art Ch. 11 Cosmetics & Cosmetology

Camel Hair

(camel hair [wool] is actually unsuited and not used in making cosmetic brushes). In technical terms, Camel hair represents any brush that has soft, silky, fine hair.

For all ages add blush to these areas:

-Blush to the chin -Blush to ear -Blush to forehead -Blush to adult cheek

Powder Applicators:

-Brush -Pad -Puff -Cotton ball -Atomizer

Types of powder:

-Cake -Loose

Types of mascara:

-Cake -Semi-liquid

Warm color areas of the face:

-Cheeks -Chin -Ears -Mucous membranes of the lips -Forehead on males

Types of false eyelashes:

-Eyelash strips -Individual eyelashes

Warm color areas of the hands:

-Knuckles -Fingernails -Cuticles

Types of nail polish:

-Liquid

Types of eyeliner:

-Liquid -Cake -Pencil

Types of Foundation:

-Liquid -Cake Powder -Cream in a Jar -Cream in a Stick

Types of blush/rouge:

-Liquid -Cream -Cake powder -Loose powder

Types of lip color:

-Liquid -Cream in a jar -Cream in a stick form

Types of eye shadow:

-Soft powder -Cake powder -Liquid cream -Cream sticks

Types of cosmetic brushes:

-Spreading Brushes -Stippling Brushes -Powder and dusting brushes -Tinting brushes -Blending, lining, highlighting brushes

Colors of powder:

-White -Tinted- Yellow, Pink, Brown, black

Opaque cosmetics can be?

-liquid -cream

Translucent Cosmetics can be?

-liquid -cream -powder

Transparent Cosmetics can be?

-liquid -cream -powder

Postmortem cosmetology accomplishes this recreation of natural form and color by?

-replacing color in the skin that was lost through the settling of blood, and the loss of blood during embalming. -counteracting color changes in the skin caused by the fraying effect of formaldehyde on blood and tissue. -covering discolorations in the skin. -accenting positive facial features. -de-emphasizing negatively appearing features. -compensating for artificial funeral home light.

What are the four basic factors that affect the normal complexion of each individual?

1. Age 2. Climate 3. Health 4. Genetics

What are the types of external coloring? (3)

1. Cream cosmetics 2. Powder Cosmetics 3. Liquid Cosmetics

There are four cosmetic colors needed to reproduce the color of skin. Variations of these four colors can be achieved by mixing one or more colors together:

1. Dark brown 2. Yellow 3. Red 4. White

What are the two methods for restoring color in a deceased person?

1. Internal method 2. External method

Before purchasing a cosmetic brush what should you consider?

1. Purpose of operation 2. Style of ferrule (metal part) 3. Setting compound 4. Design of handle 5. Sources of hair

Foundation

A base coat,applied to the skin as the first layer of makeup.

Blush/Rouge

A cheek color, usually a cream or powder applied to the cheek and other warm color areas to impart natural-appearing color.

Eye shadow

A colored cosmetic,usually in powder form, applied to the upper eyelid.

Eyeliner

A cosmetic in liquid, cake, or pencil form, applied as a line where the eyelashes join the eyelid.

Eyebrow Pencil

A cosmetic in soft, solid, or powdered form applied to give color to the eyebrows.

Lip color

A cosmetic used to color the lips; usually a stick or a cream.

Mascara

A cosmetic used to darken the eyelashes.

Liquid Cosmetics

A fluid colorant in which pigments are dissolved or suspended.

Albinism

A hereditary absence of pigment in the skin, hair, and eyes.

Location of blush on a young child?

A pat of blush would be placed on the front plane of the cheek below the center of the eye.

Cream Cosmetics

A semi-solid consistency.

Powder Cosmetics

A solid substance in the state of fine, loose particles, produced by crushing or grinding.

Cake Powder Blush

Applied over the foundation using a brush, cotton puff, or pad before drying powder is used.

Loose Powder Blush

Applied over the foundation using a cotton puff or brush.

Diamond Shaped Face

Cheeks are widest part of the face.

Complexion is a term that applies to the _____ and the ____ of the skin.

Color; texture

External Method

Coloration is through the application of cosmetic to skin.

Badger Hair

Comes from the badger that inhabits the regions of Turkey and southern Russia. The hair is from the ridge of the back. The color is white with a black stripe about a fourth of the way down. The bristle then becomes white again. Badger hair is stuffer and has a lot of spring to it.

Red sable

Comes from the tail of the Kolinsky (red tarter marten). This brush has the finest quality of hair, uniform in length, strength, thickness, and spring. The of this brush increases as the length increases.

Black sable

Comes from the tail of the wood marten and stone marten, also comes from the Civet-Cat, whose tail is black whit white bristles. This grade of brush is very useful in cosmetic brushes.

Oblong shaped face corrective cosmetizers

Darken the chin and top of forehead. Lighten cheeks slightly.

Square shaped face corrective cosmetizers

Darken the sides of the forehead and chin. Lighten the cheekbones.

Climate

Either an abundance or lack of sunshine will change the melanin concentrations of the skin.

Inverted Triangle Shaped Face

Forehead is wider than cheeks or jaw line. Cheeks are wider than jaw line. Face narrows from top to bottom.

Synthetic Bristle

Has a high gloss, resilient texture, and is usually made with nylon bristle. These brushes are not recommended for postmortem cosmetic work because of the stiffness of the bristle.

Transparent Cosmetics

Having the property of transmitting rays of light through its substance so that a body situated beyond or behind it can be distinctly seen.

Fitch Hair

Is from the Russian Fitch or North American skunk. The color the hair is black with grey or white at the end of the bristles .

Goat Hair

Is rather coarse and is generally used in less expensive brushes. The hair source is mainly from the back of the animal, however, the hair from the chin whiskers is also used.

An embalmer should try to recreate a natural appearance by using the ____ amount of cosmetics as is necessary.

Least

Diamond Shaped face corrective cosmetizers

Lighten sides of forehead, temples and jaw line. Darken cheeks.

Round shaped face corrective cosmetizers

Lighten the cheeks. Darken the forehead and jaw line.

Inverted Triangle shaped face corrective cosmetizers

Lighten the chin and jaw line. Darken the sides of forehead and temples. Lighten cheeks slightly.

Triangle shaped face corrective cosmetizers

Lighten the sides of forehead. Darken the sides of jaw line.

Opaque Cosmetics

Not transparent or translucent; not allowing light to pass through. A concealing cosmetic.

Bristle

Originates from hogs and boars, a type of animal raised in almost every part of the world. It comes in many different colors and grades. It ranges from soft, thin, and silky to a stiff grade in all lengths. This brush is the most common brush known to the public and is classified as "China bristle." China bristle is white in color and of good quality.

Genetics

Our complexion is determined in part by the genes we are born with.

Translucent Cosmetics

Somewhat transparent; transmitting light but not causing sufficient diffusion to eliminate perception of distinct images.

Ox Hair

Taken from the ears of the oxen and comes in many different qualities. The hair is light or dark in color, springy in character and makes up one of the better quality brushes in embalming cosmetology.

Round Shaped Face

The cheeks are wider than the forehead or jaw line.

Health (Physical Condition)

The degree of redness of the complexion is affected by the quantity of blood in the superficial capillaries.

Oblong Shaped Face

The face is long and narrow. Jaw is narrower than forehead and cheeks.

Triangle Shaped Face

The forehead is narrower than the jaw line and cheeks. Cheeks are narrower than jaw line but wider than the forehead.

Square Shaped Face

The forehead, jaw line, and cheeks are the same width.

Location of blush on an elderly adult?

The location of the pat of color moves down the cheek below the frontal cheekbone. The coloring should be faint and barely visible.

Liquid and Cream Blushes

The most common types used in mortuary cosmetology. They can be applied over the foundation using a brush, sponge, or the fingers before using a drying powder.

Location of blush on an older child?

The pat should move to a point halfway between the center of the eye and then end of the line of closure.

Hemoglobin

The pigment that gives the blood color. Blood can also affect the color of the skin. Bright red, oxygenated blood give the skin a pinker look. Darker, non-oxygenated blood can make the skin appear bluish.

Location of blush on a young or middle-aged adult?

The point becomes below the end of the line of eye closure.

Age

The skin color becomes duller and grater as the skin texture changes from the smoothness of youth to the coarser skin of the elderly.

Internal Method

The use of arterial injection solution that contains dye.

Carotene

The yellow pigment of the skin.

Freckles

Uneven concentrations of melanin appearing as dark spots, usually on the face. It is not considered a discoloration that needs covering.

An electric spray cosmetic system includes a:

compressor, hose, hand-held spray applicator, and the liquid spray cosmetics

Types of external cosmetics:

✔foundation ✔mascara ✔eye shadow ✔eyebrow pencil ✔eyeliner ✔blush/rouge ✔lip color

Types of hair found in brushes:

✔red sable ✔camel hair ✔black sable ✔Fitch hair ✔ox hair ✔badger hair ✔goat hair ✔bristle ✔synthetic bristle

Transparent liquid pros:

👍does not cake or clump on skin or hair 👍does not rub off easily 👍does not give a pasty appearance 👍dries quickly 👍easily removed from hair

Opaque liquid pros:

👍many help prevent dehydration 👍choices of thickness (light or heavy) 👍covers discoloration 👍covers wax 👍mixes with wax

Opaque liquid cons:

👎can look pasty 👎can color hair 👎clumps 👎rubs off easily 👎needs powder application to dry 👎stains clothing

Transparent liquid cons:

👎limited color choice 👎does not cover discolorations 👎dehydrating if alcohol base 👎does not cover wax well 👎can collect in deep pores and appear darker than the rest of the skin

To avoid a need for complex descriptive terminology, variations within each group will be classified as:

👩light 👩medium 👩dark 👩darker

The variations of complexion colors that occur within each ethnic as well as each racial classification are:

👩yellowish 👩brownish 👩reddish

What are some methods for applying external cosmetics?

😈gloved hands 😈brush 😈sponge 😈puff/pad 😈spray

Abnormal complexion variables

😖blood discolorations 😖pigmentary discolorations 😖changes in skin moisture content