tam 4072 exam 1

English fashion extremists- Beau Brummel

-clean shaven -original "dandy" -country gentlemen's costume - tails - ornamentation frowned upon except for brass buttons

The Directoire Period

1790-1800

The Empire Period

1800-1820

**ROMANTIC PERIOD

1820- 1850

Chesterfield

A coat with either single or double-breasted closing, no waistline seam, a short vent in the back, no side pleats, and often a velvet collar.

a la Chinoise

A hairstyle created by pulling back and side hair into a knot at the top of the head while hair at the forehead and temples was arranged in curls.

Victoria Sleeve

A version of the Bouffant sleeve with one puff at elbow.

pattens

Clogs; overshoes that protect against wet and muddy surfaces

muslin fever

Empire; flu epidemic because women were wearing such lightweight clothing in winter

gigot sleeve/ leg of mutton sleeve

Extremely full at the shoulder, decreasing in size to the wrist where they end in a fitted cuff.

1789

French Revolution

1814

NB reign ended

1804

Napoleon Bonaparte crowned

canezou

Small, sleeveless spencer worn over a bodice, and in others as a garment synonymous with the pelerine.

capote

Type of bonnet with a soft fabric crown and a stiff brim

dandy

a fashionable man who dressed well, circulated in the best society, witty comments

chignon

a knot or coil of hair arranged on the back of a woman's head

Dressing gown

a piece of clothing like a long loose coat that you wear in your house

high stomacher dress

aka apron, complex construction in which the bodice was sewn to the skirt at the back only

sleeve en bouffant/ en sabot

alternated places of tightness with puffed out expansions

French Rev

bonnet rouge, cockade, trousers, breeches

Sans- Culotte wearing the Carmagnole

carmagnole is the short woolen or cloth jacket of a dark color, cut like a smock

sabots

clogs

draped -- also category of WG

created by arrangement around the body of pieces of fabric that are folded, pleated, pinned and/or belted in diff ways (usually fits the body loosely, often worn in warm climates bc cool to wear)

tailored

cut and sewn to fit the body closely (provides greater warmth and often worn in cool climates)

round gown

daytime or evening dresses that did not open at the front to show a petticoat

mancheron

decorative epaulettes placed at shoulder of some sleeves

**categories of Western garments

draped slip-on sewn/ semi-fitted sheath artificial combo

types of costume or ways of constructing clothing

draped, tailored or combo of draped and tailored

functions of dress

dress acts as 1. alterants of body processes (see notes) 2. media for communication

definition of dress

dress is the assemblage of modifications of the body and/ or supplements to the body dress is the total arrangement of all the outwardly detectable modifications of a person's body and all material objects added to it general term that includes not only garments but also aspects of personal appearance that can be changed such as grooming

folk costume

dress of the European peasant class, 18th and 19th centuries

Western dress

dress prevalent in Western Europe and Euro-America since the Middle Ages

clocking

embroidery on the hose or stockings, generally above the ankle

1794

establishment of the Directory

imbecile or idiot sleeves

extremely full from shoulder to wrist, where they gathered into a fitted cuff

cossack trousers

extremely full trousers based on Russian soldiers

chemisette

fillers that raised the necklines of daytime dresses

forms and functions of dress

form: what it looked like, what it was made from, how it was made, etc. function: the purpose it served, how it was interpreted, etc

bonnet

framed the face and tied under chin

demi-gigot sleeve

full from shoulder to elbow, then fitted from elbow to wrist, often with an extension over the wrist

Marie sleeve

full to the wrist, but tied in at intervals with ribbons or bands

artificial -- category of WG

garments that rebuild the body by padding, stiffening, corseting, etc to improve upon or change nature ex. padded push up bra

jockey cap

hat style for riding, women could wear too

en coeur

heart shaped neckline

toque

high, brimless hats

properties of dress

identified and interpreted by the senses ex. red shirt- sight velvet dress- touch

Day dresses, promenade or walking dresses, & carriage dresses

indistinguishable in summer. lower waistlines, wide sleeves and full skirts, different necklines

culotte

knee breeches, more affluent and nobility

trousers

laboring classes

muff

large hand-carried accessory made of fur or fabric

curricle coat/ box coat

large, loose greatcoats with one or more capes at the shoulder

chemise

lightweight underclothing, under the corset

pantalette

long, straight white drawers trimmed with rows of lace or tucks at the hem that became fashionable for a short time around 1809

drawers

loose cotton or linen underwear

gypsy hats

low crown and moderately wide brim, worn with tied ribbon

evening dress

lower waistlines, bust, wider skirts

Drawn bonnet

made from concentric circles of metal whalebone or cane and covered in silk

bishop sleeve

made with a row of vertical pleats at the shoulder that released into a soft, full sleeve gathered to a fitted cuff at the wrist

day cap

mature women wore these small muslin or lace caps indoors

cravat

neck tie

chatelaine

ornamental chains worn at the waist from which were suspended useful items such as scissors, thimbles, button hooks, and penknives

Grecian bend

padded rolls placed under dresses at the back of waistline at end of period- this created peculiar forward slant to the body

kashmir shawl

pashmina cashmere, elite status, often paisley pattern

a la victime

ref to guillotine victims- short curly hairstyle

bavolet

ruffle at the back of the neck to keep the sun off the neck

Paris working class garments

sans culottes without breeches, cockade and sabots

a la Titus

short curly style like that of Roman men statues

spencer

short jacket worn by men and women that ended at waistline

habit shirt

short undershirt (w/ high stomacher dress)

eton suit

short, single breasted jacket ending at the waist

pelisse

similar to a modern coat, full length and followed the Empire silhouette, huge muff

bustle

small down or cotton filled pads that tied on around the waist at the back, held out skirts in back

Reticules/Indispensibles

small handbags, often with a drawstring at the top

zeitgeist

spirit of the times; complex mixture of social, psych and aesthetic factors that determines the specific expression of an era

Derby hat (US)/ bowler (england)

stiff, round bowl shaped crowns with narrow brims

stocks

stiffened neck bands that buckled or tied behind the neck

a crowd of "sans-culottes" carrying their idol, Marat and wearing the "bonnet rouge"

symbol of the French Revolution

fashion

syn with style after the latter part of the Medieval period but implies styles of relatively short duration

clothes/ clothing

synonymous, means to wear apparel

incroyables

the incredible ones- male fashion extremists -loops with garter or ribbon -cravats -extremely large lapels -tight breeches

marveilleuses

the marvelous ones- female fashion extremists

style

the predominant form of dress of any given period or culture, may persist for very long or shorter periods of time

bonnet rouge

the red cap of liberty

false bosoms

to fill corsets, made of wax or cotton

petticoat

undergarment

costume

used as a synonym for dress by those who work in the museum field and by many scholars who study historic dress -some prefer dress bc ppl think of a costume in theater, etc (see all defs of dress)

sans culottes

wide leg pants

bertha collar

wide, deep collars following the neckline