Textile Industry (Textile)

Overview of textile industry

Food: plant covers, absorbent liners in prepackaged meats, reusable clothing bags Clothing : warmth, protection, aesthetic properties, self-esteem and image Shelter: tents, building materials, interiors

Import Textile Industry

Most imported textile products are produced in low-wage, developing countries Low labor cost creates high demand in the US Cost advantage of import is sizeable even when weighed against cost of transportation, lengthened delivery schedules, difficulty in communication, occasional inferior quality shipments, myriad government regulations Demand for foreign products considered to be superior than domestic products (e.g. Tweed from England or Scotland, Flannel from Portugal, Silk from Japan etc)

Domestic Textile Industry

US textile industry has companies that develop, produce, and/or distribute textile materials Eg: Yarn mill, fabric mill, dye/print house, finishing companies, sellers, convertors Non production segments are trade associations/ publications, textile testing companies Fiber purchased to make textiles is grown in the US Growth in the import industry has forced closures of many domestic textile producers Strategies for surviving producers - modernization, efficient production, specialty niche market, export sales program

International Trade

- International trade in textiles has been there for past many centuries - In mid-20th century, majority of textile products in US and developed nations was produced in US - International market place and textile industry continues to evolve and change --Technology, economy, political environment, local issues contribute to industry's state of flux

Textile industry is segmented into 3 large groups (listed below)

- Apparel - Textiles used in clothing (35% of market ) - Textiles for Interiors-Textiles used in furniture, bath, kitchen and bed, ( 35% of market ) Industrial -Textiles used in luggage, flags, boat sails, bandages, dust filters, (30% of market )

Overview of textile industry (2)

- Textiles are one of the oldest product used by mankind - Textile industry played a significant role in initial growth of US --Helped in developing interstate commerce and binding nation together

Primary Sources of Fabric

- mill - company - convertors

Importers (2 types)

-- Direct - buys foreign fabric or manufactured textile products from foreign mill/supplier and bring to US, Sell to American manufacturers or retailers -- Import mill - foreign company that owns textile machinery and makes fabric (or yarn), then export to US (operates like American mill in obtaining orders and selling fabrics)

Remnants

1 - 10 Yards

Finishing (6)

Additional treatments before use Examples: water repellant for rain coats, brushing for flannel surface Same fabric may be used for making items like blouses, backpacks, comforters Finishing plants often part of dye plants or print plants

Jobbers

Buys from mills, converters, and garment manufacturers Periodically buy large quantities of fabrics that may be in great demand in future Source of hard to get items Offer lower prices , interesting fabrics but cannot offer continuity

Convertors

Buys greige (unfinished) goods (usually from mills) and sell finished fabric Have it dyed, printed or finished by other companies All design aspects, construction, design, color, finish are determined by convertor Smaller than mills Sell finished fabric to the same customers as mills Sometimes buy fabrics from other convertors

Mills

Company that owns textile machinery and makes fabric Large textile mills are vertically integrated Mills sell finished fabrics to various customers ( convertors, apparel or interior textile manufacturer, private label manufacturer, jobbers, retails stores

Secondary Sources of Fabric

Jobber, retail store, and overseas agent

Fabrics (3)

Made from woven or knitted yarns Mills are companies that make fabric Range of fabric types and weights to fulfill requirements

Dyeing and Printing (4/5)

Method of applying color to fabrics to make it appealing Dyeing is imparting solid color to textiles (blue, green, red etc) Printing is imparting designs to textiles (Dots, florals, stripes etc) Operations are performed in dye plants or print plants Companies are called Dye house or Print house

Yarn (2)

Most textiles contain yarns (Felt is made from fibers directly) Continuous threadlike strands of fibers twisted together Various types of yarn like flat, dull, slubby, lustrous

Pound goods

Not sold by yard but by pound

Retail Stores

Over-the-counter sales Sell to home sewers Large variety of fabrics with small inventory of each

Overseas Agent

Person or Company that represents an exporter or importer overseas Considered a requisite in overseas business Have knowledge and access to local business contacts, understand local customs, regulations, language

Fiber (1)

Smallest part of fabric. Fine, hair like substance Natural - cotton and wool Manufactured - acrylic, nylon, and polyester

Shorts

fabric shorter than 40 yards

Market planning

in Textiles involve long range planning • Fabric design begins 1.5 to 2 years before retail sales • New fabrics are shown at fabric shows and exhibitions 1 year before retail sales • Apparel manufacturers then begin designing their lines with these new fabrics and show their new designs at opening trade shows, press event 6 months before retail sales • Remaining 6 months involve apparel manufacturers in selling, producing and delivering goods to retail stores

Put-up

indicates the way a fabric is packaged when it is sold Most fabrics are sold as rolls (wound on cardboard tube) Full woven roll contained 60-100 yards (40"-54"width) traditionally, now up to 1000 yards (up to 100"width) Knit fabrics are 40-60 pound roll, either open width or tubular form Some fabrics are doubled and rolled (ie. Folded lengthwise and wound on a flat piece of Textile industry uses many different raw materials and many steps in process of manufacturing a finished textile Each segment in pipeline is buying product of previous producer and adding value. Primary Sources of Fabric cardboard). Cloth sold to retail stores is usually in flat form, less than 30 yards in length

Global Issues

• Air and water pollution Water used in production is cleaned and filtered Air emissions like fume , ash are filtered • Disposal of waste products Toxic waste material are disposed in registered waste dumps Chemicals and other materials are reused and recycled • Health and safety of workers

Buying and Selling Fabrics

• Fabrics purchased from written specifications or a sample • Fabrics bought with specifications (yarns per inch, width, weight, thickness, breaking strength, color fastness etc) should be shipped exactly exact • Fabric bought by sample should be identical as sample is a representation • Fabric quality varies from mill to mill and country to country • Most fabrics and sewn products bought by specification need standardized lab testing and buyers approval before shipping • Supplier submits piece of fabric ( 60 yds) then case of fabric ( 600 yds) for approval before authorizing release for main production lot • Many exporting countries have branches of certified US testing labs for standardized testing reports to be submitted to US buyers

Fair Trade

• Fair Trade indicates product -----Produced without labor exploitation -----Using environmentally sustainable practices -----Producers received fair prices • US organization- Fair Labor Association (FLA) --------FLA sponsors a National Fair Trade Month • Global effort- World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO) , --------WFTO sponsors a global World Fair Trade Day each year

Trade Shows (internal)

• Interstoff (Fabric exposition) • The Salon International de l'Habillement Masculin - SEHM • Techtextil (Technical textiles) • Heimtextil • International Exposition of Textile Machinery - ITMA

Trade Shows (domestic)

• Texworld (USA/Paris) • Premiere Vision (USA/Paris) • American Textile Machinery Exhibition - ATME • International Fashion Fabric Exposition - IFFE • Magic International (International Fashion Sourcing Show)

Seasons

• Two main retail selling seasons for apparel are , Fall-August 1 and Spring-February 1 • Other smaller seasons are Holiday and Summer ( sometimes resort also)