chapter 10 oceanography quizlet

In general, what do beaches look like at the end of summer?

beaches tend to have a wide berm and no longshore bar

Why does the crust subside slightly on either side of a melting glacier?

crust under the glacier rises as the ice melts. This allows mantle on either side of the glacier to move to areas under the glacier

Why does the crust uplift slightly on either side of a growing glacier?

mantle under the glacier is pushed aside by sinking crust. This mantle pushes up the crust on either side of the glacier

In the long term, what do beach drift and longshore current do?

move sediment parallel to the shoreline

Which of the following beach compartment-to-submarine canyon affiliations is incorrect?

redondo: mugu

What is the salinity profile in areas of the coastal ocean where there is a dry offshore wind?

salinity is high at the top, decreases rapidly through the halocline, then remains constant to the bottom of the water column

Why does the beach shown in the video look the way that it does during summertime?

small waves move sand up the beach face and create a wide, sandy beach

What is the difference between longshore current and longshore drift?

Longshore current refers to the movement of water, longshore drift refers to the movement of sediment.

What type of feature is a barrier island?

depositional

What is the most obvious difference between summertime and wintertime beaches?

during summertime, there is much more sand on the beach

Why does the beach in the video look the way that it does during wintertime?

large waves move sand offshore onto longshore sand bars and create a rocky beach

In general, what do beaches look like at the end of winter?

beaches tend to have a narrow berm and a prominent longshore bar

What is the salinity profile in areas of the coastal ocean where there is river runoff?

salinity is low at the top, increases rapidly through the halocline, then remains constant to the bottom of the water column

What process formed the submarine canyons off the Southern California coast?

some were carved out by rivers when sea level was lower than it is at present, but most form from the erosive action of turbidity currents

What are submarine canyons?

steep-sided valleys cut into the continental slope

Normally, beaches have the greatest amount of sand on the berm near the end of __________.

summer

What will happen to the crust as a glacier grows?

the crust under the glacier will sink into the mantle

Why does glacial subsidence NOT occur at the exact moment that a glacier forms?

the rate of subsidence is controlled by the rate at which mantle can flow

What is isostasy?

the rising and sinking of Earth's crust relative to the mantle in response to the redistribution of mass on the surface

How does the tide cycle affect erosion along a sea coast?

the tide cycle causes erosion to occur at different elevations along a sea coast

How would a beach be affected if a wide berm were protected from erosion during winter months?

the wintertime beach would look similar to the summertime beach

For how long will land rebound after a glacier melts?

thousands of years

What is the longshore current?

water forced by waves to move along the shore

How is a cave created in a cliff face along a sea coast?

wave action erodes areas of weakness in rock in a sea cliff

How are winter beaches different from summer beaches?

winter waves are short and high, whereas summer waves are long and shallower

How long does it take berms to become narrow and rocky after summer has passed?

a few weeks

Which of the following is/are part of a beach compartment? Choose all that apply.

- beach - submarine canyon - river

Where are barrier islands common? Choose all that apply.

- gulf coast of the United States - east coast of the United States

In which area(s) of a barrier island is peat formed? Choose all that apply.

- high salt marsh - low salt marsh

Which of the following processes is responsible for the movement of sand down the beach?

- longshore transport

What happens to a barrier island as sea level rises? Choose all that apply.

- peat deposits are exposed on the ocean beach side of the barrier island - structures on the island are at risk due to increased erosion

If you built a solid structure perpendicular to the shore, such as a groin, which of the following would occur?

- sand would accumulate on the upcoast side of the structure

How do river runoff and dry offshore winds affect the coastal ocean when they are combined? Choose all that apply.

- they increase mixing - they increase rates of evaporation

How do dry offshore winds affect the coastal ocean? Choose all that apply.

- they increase surface salinity - they support the formation of a halocline - they increase rates of evaporation

Which of the following factors contribute to the direction of longshore current and longshore drift? Choose all that apply.

- wave refraction - angle that waves approach the shore - major offshore storm centers

How does a sea stack form?

a stack forms when a sea arch collapses, leaving a vertical column of rock offshore

How is an arch formed along a sea coast?

an arch forms when a sea cave breaks through a headland or where two sea caves coalesce as they erode back due to wave action

Which way would sediment move if NO beach drift existed?

at an angle to shore

In which area of a barrier island would you expect to find a woodland or forest?

barrier flat

What happens to river runoff as it enters the ocean?

it floats on the surface