cte3512 exam 3

Surrealism

• "beyond the real" influenced by Freudianism • dreamlike state, no planning, nonconventional scenes drawing from the subconscious imagination • Elsa Schiaparelli had surrealist influences in her designs in the 30s o Body parts like eyes, mouths, and hands in unexpected places on garments or in prints o An organza dress with a painted lobster on the skirt o Suits with butterflies or cicadas as buttons o Hats shaped like shoes

Bermuda shorts

• A 1930's style revived in 1950s for general sportswear • Knee-length shorts; very popular

Sneakers

• A casual style canvas tennis shoe

Duster

• A coat worn when riding in an automobile; cotton or linen

Poodle skirts

• A fad among youth in the 1950s • Full-circle felt skirts with a poodle applique in a contrasting color of felt; rhinestones were used on the eyes and for the collar on the dog

Unitard

• A one-piece jumpsuit • First worn by Olympic skier Susie Chaffee in 1968

Windsor

• A spread collar style on shirts • Worn with the large Windsor tie knot

Eton crop

• A style in which hair was exceptionally closely cropped and dressed like that of the men

Dashikis

• A traditional African garment which were collarless, wide shirts with kimono-style sleeves

Leotard

• A two-piece, knitted, body-hugging garment worn by French acrobat Jules Leotard in the 19th century • Introduced into fashionable dress by Claire McCardell in 1943

Minaret tunic

• A wide tunic boned to hold out the skirt in a full circle and worn over the narrowest of hobble skirts • Designed by Paul Poiret

Skimmer

• A-line, one-piece dress

Preppy

• Affluent students in Ivy League colleges who would become yuppies after graduation and their imitators wore preppy styles • Name derived from private preparatory schools they attended before college • Tweed blazers, conservatively-cut skirts or trousers, tailored blouses or shirts, high-quality leather loafers, oxfords, or pumps

Mainbocher

• An American born designer who went to Paris in the 1920s to work as a fashion editor • One exception to the system America had in place where most designers worked for ready-to-wear manufacturers, where they produced lines for each season • Designed Wallis Simpson's, duchess of Windsor, wedding dress • When WWII came, he left Paris and moved back to New York where he still followed the practices of the French couture (Main Rousseau Bocher)

Claire McCardell

• An American fashion designer; "American Look" • Clean lined, functional, comfortable, and appropriate • First collection was done for Townley Frocks in 1931, designed mainly sportswear and casual clothes • She designed under her own name in the 40's and 50's, success • Originated: o Matching separates, a new idea o Dirndl skirts o The monastic: a bias cut, full tent dress that when belted, followed the body curves o Hardware closings o Spaghetti or shoestring ties o The diaper bathing suit o Ballet slippers o The poncho

Elsa Schiaparelli

• An Italian designer who began in Paris in the 1930s by creating sweaters in bizarre designs • Worked well to gain publicity • Credited as the first of the couture to use zippers, to use synthetic fabrics, and open a boutique with ready-to-wear clothing • Also created the first evening dresses with matching sweaters, and skirts to match sweaters • Came up with the vivid pink color, "shocking pink"

Step-ins

• An evolution of the combination: combines the camisole and panties • Panties were the new drawers or knickers of the 20s; they were shorts, unbuttoned or elasticized at the waist, usually decorative • Had a straight-cut • Also called cami-knickers, or Teddies

Shingle

• An exceptionally short cut in which the back hair was cut and tapered like that of a man

Zoot suit

• An extreme form of the sack suit; jacket was long with excessive wide shoulders, and long white lapels, trousers were high waist, suspenders, large bow tie, watch chain • Eliminated after the L-85 regulations • Believed to have originated at the lower end of the socioeconomic ladder: with either Mexican-American immigrant workers or by an African-American bus driver • Associated with jitterbugging

Eisenhower jackets

• Based on military jackets that were slightly bloused above the waist and gathered to a fitted belt at the waist • Named after the Supreme Allied Commander Dwight Eisenhower

Jeanne Lanvin

• Began as milliner in 1890; Emphasized more ornate designs • Originated robe de style, popular gown of 1920s

Feminism

• Began in the 1960's • The Feminist Mystique by Betty Freidan (1963) o College educated women were trapped in routine of house work and child care o Middle-class home= "comfortable, concentration camp" • National Organization for Woman (NOW) 1966: equal rights • 1960: FDA approves oral contraceptive

Leisure suits

• Casual wear; an alternative to business suits • Top and pants made from same fabric; the unstructured tops had shirt like collars or were collarless • Sport suits with shirt-like jackets

Kente cloth

• Complex, elaborate, multi-colored, woven designs made on narrow strip-looms by Ashanti men in Ghana • Expensive and highly prized

Mondrian dress

• Designed by Saint Laurent in 1965 • Used the geometric lines of the Dutch painter Piet Mondrian • White, red, blue, and yellow cubes outlined in black

Kiddie couture

• Designers of adult clothing started producing lines for children • In response to the 1980s being peak childbearing years for the baby boomers; as well as the good economic times, so affluent parents were spending lavishly on clothing for their kids

Paul Poiret

• Did away with corsets and created the hobble skirt • Also designed the minaret tunic which was usually worn over the hobble skirt • Also known for vivid colors, innovative marketing, and oriental overtones

Pea jackets

• Double-breasted dark box jackets of American sailors • One of the styles that showed military influence in 1940s

Knickers

• Drawers, that could also be combinations • French style had wide, frilled legs • Directoire style was close fitting

Lastex

• Fabric made from yarns with a rubber core covered by another fiber • Used to make bathing suits that had stretch and were form fitting and wrinkle free • Came about in early 1930s

Haute couture

• Firms that create garments that may be sold to private customers or to other segments of the fashion industry who also acquire the right to reproduce the designs • Trade association called Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne

Pret-a-porter

• French term for ready-to-wear clothing • In the mid-1960s, many young designers of the haute couture designed ready-to-wear lines • Gianni Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Armani, Fendi, Gucci

Afro

• Full and fluffy hairstyle, rounded • Worn by both men and women in late 60s and early 70s

Dirndl skirts

• Full, gathered skirt that became fashionable in 1945 • Created by Claire McCardell

Bishop sleeve

• Gathered into the armhole and full below the elbow with fabric puffed or pouched at the wrist • Typically in the first part of the decade

Flapper

• Girls who smoke, drank, kissed boys, went dancing, etc. • Cut hair short, wore short skirts that showed her legs, wore makeup; fashionable dress for 20's

Pompadour

• Hair built high in front and at the sides around the face • False hairpieces

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel

• Her designs became the epitome of 20's style • Simple and classic designs • For the "corset-free gal who lied for pleasure, self-invention, and independence • Known for using wool jersey in the 20's; also credited with the suntanned look and costume jewelry • Closed her shop during WWII and came out of retirement in 1954

Teddy Boys

• In England in the late 40s-50s; working class youth • First truly independent fashion promoted by young people for young people; first fashion to begin among the lower classes; first fashion to be outward evidence of a lifestyle cult • Edwardian flavor: longer jackets with more shaping, high-turned back lapels, cuffed sleeves, waistcoats, and well-cut narrow trousers • Wore elongated loose jackets with wide, padded shoulders and often velvet collars; trousers were usually narrow, tight, and short and showed colored socks; narrow neckties • Wore winkle pickers in 1950s- pointed shoes • Hair was somewhat longer, with sideburns and DA o DA: duck-tailed shape cut at the back ("duck's ass")

Christian Dior

• Introduced the New Look in 1947; romantic and feminine o Tiny waistline, rounded hips, unpadded or softly padded shoulders, full pleated shorter skirts • Sensuous line, loosened the waste in 1952 • H-line in 1954 • Y-line in 1955

Chinos

• Ivy league style: khaki-colored, twill-weave, cotton-fabric trousers • Worn with a small belt and buckle at the back, and combined with button-down shirts and crew-neck sweaters

Shorties

• Jackets ending above the waste; worn with wide skirts • Also called toppers

Fortuny/Delphos gown

• Known for his timeless styles; and Delphos gown • Studied painting, sculpture, architecture, chemistry and dyes • Influences by history and non-European cultures • Used renaissance and oriental motifs and pleating • Greek-influenced Delphos gown o Functionality and ease of movement

John Galliano

• Known for new and unusual styles • Chief designer at Givenchy for couture and ready-to-wear

Sloppy joes

• Large, loose pullovers worn by adolescents in the mid-1940s • Pullovers were knitted sweaters that pulled on over the head

Minimalists

• Late 1990's; styles in neutral or darker tones with little ornamentation and good lines • Important designer: Jil Sander

Granny dresses

• Long daytime dresses; popular among young people in the 1970s • Derived from mod and hippie styles • Cut simply, with elasticized waists, necks, and sleeves; or had design elements from historical periods

Dreadlocks

• Long hair arranged in many long hanging twists • Worn by rastafarians, and African-american, Caucasian, men and women

Lounge coat

• Loose, comfortable jacket with no waistline • Straight fronts, center vents in back, sleeves without cuffs, small collars • Became the standard suit jacket of the 20th century • Worn for all occasions • Also called sack jackets, and sport jackets

Deconstructionists

• Martin Margiela was one of the best-known designers • Garments appear to be coming apart or left unfinished • Clothes with seems located on the outside, linings that were part of the exterior, fabric edges left unhemmed and raw

Nehru jackets

• Men's jacket based on a traditional Indian jacket that buttoned all the way to the neck and had a small, stand-up collar

Power suits

• Name for men's and women's garments for business in late 80's • Conservative look, broad shoulders, wide lapels, Armani • Came with the increase of women in the workforce

Tea Gowns

• New form of dress in the 1870's • Worn without a corset; softer in line; daytime and evening • Fortuny gowns were often worn as tea gowns

Era of the gray flannel suit

• Nickname of the 1950's • Edwardian influences moved mainstream menswear away from the English drape cut; outcome was a suit with less padding in the shoulders, and a narrower silhouette; single-breasted styles • Dark gray (charcoal) was the most popular shade • Career-minded businessmen

Beatniks

• Non-conformists in the US in the 1950s • Wore beards, ponytails, dirty sneakers, peasant blouses, black • Experimented with drugs, turned to eastern mysticism and Buddhism, rejected the "square" world • Influences from French existentialists led to black clothes: turtlenecks and berets for men, leotards and tights and ballet slippers for women • Precursor for youthful protest movements of the 60s

Body jewelry

• Piercings anywhere on the body • Popular in the 90's; women showed midriff and pierced navels

Postmodern fashion

• Postmodernism is the name given to present day culture that moves away from a single predominant fashion, and more towards a variety of fashion segments• Characteristics: o Retro: recycling of styles and looks from the past o Volatile stylistic changes that lasted for short periods o Intentional challenges to aesthetic code o Combinations of unharmonious styles and fabrics o No distinctions between high-end or low-end fashions o Popularity of diverse styles within a given time period o Merging of ethnic and subcultural styles o Emphasis on ornamentation and decoration

Nixon's trip to China

• President Richard Nixon visited Beijing, China in 1972 • Hoped there would be a trade-off: Chinese pressure on the North Vietnamese to be more conciliatory in discussing armistice terms • Signed armistice in 1973 to withdraw troops • His opening led to increased trade with China

Retro

• Recycling of styles and looks from the past • Huge part of 1980-2000's fashion

L-85 Regulations

• Regulations that were passed during WWII that restricted the quantity of cloth that could be used in clothing • There were shortages in wool, silk, rayon, cotton, and linen • Eliminated trouser cuffs, extra pockets, vests with double-breasted suits, regulated width of skirt hems and length of men's trousers • Exceptions were wedding gowns, burial gowns, maternity dresses, infants' clothing, religious clothing

Op art

• Short for optical art • Created visual illusions through largely geometric patterns • Victor Vasarely

Pop art

• Short for popular art • Glorified representations of ordinary objects like soda cans and cartoon figures • Andy Warhol

Madeleine Vionnet

• Specialized in plan, unadorned, well-cut dresses; technical skills • Worked on live models, slim-firm figured, loose robes • Rejected corset, padding, or stiffening • Designs compared to Greek sculptures • Originated the Bias cut- a technique for cutting clothing to utilize the diagonal direction of the cloth, which has greater stretch and drapes in such a way that the body lines and curves are accentuated; popular in the 1930s o Elegant, feminine look, fabric clings, shows curves

Hobble skirts

• Straight and extremely narrow; slits at bottom to allow walking • Designed by Paul Poiret

Page-boy bob

• Straight hair turned under at the ends • Became popular towards end of the decade

Mackinaws

• Sturdy jacket made of heavily fulled wool; informal coat style of outdoor garments • Also called lumber jackets

Punk styles

• Style tribe 70s; emphasized alienation and listened to punk rock • Wore messy, baggy, ripped up clothes • Black leather, micro minis and black fishnets • Clothes purposefully made with holes, tears, and stains • Safety pins and razor blades as accessories • Black eye makeup and purple lips; colorful hair

Mods

• Style tribe in Britain in the mid-60s • "Elegance, long hair, granny glasses, Edwardian refinery" • Colorful, patterns, less conservative, handsome and dashing • Men: Beatle cut, beards, "carnaby street" dress (ruffled shirts and print shirts with white collars and cuffs), bell-bottom trousers, high heeled shoes, some jewelry • Women: mini- midi- and maxi-skirts, short geometric or long straight hair, bright colors, op and pop art, "no bra" bras, heavy eye makeup and pale lips • Beatles adopted the style • Also think Austin powers

Style tribes

• Subcultural groups that followed styles that diverged from mainstream fashion

Continental suits

• Suit with shorter jacket, closer fit through the torso, rounded cutaway jacket fronts • As men abandoned the grey flannel suit, this came to fashion in the late 1950s and continued into 60s

Art Deco

• The name is derived from an art exposition held in Paris in 1925 • Geometric forms that could be derived from the artistic expressions of the past or present • Egyptian and Mayan motifs, as well as designs related to cubism, fauvism, and expressionism • Can be seen in many geometric lines of garments, and fabric prints, embroideries, beaded decorations, and jewelry

Bobbed

• To have one's hair cut short • Except for the empire period, no other period had short hair as being fashionable • First viewed as radical, but was widely accepted by 1923

Oxford bags

• Trousers with excessively wide legs; as wide as 32 in. in diameter • Believed to have developed in Oxford College in England: students were not allowed to wear knickers to class, but wore them for sports. So to be able to change quickly from trousers to knickers, students started wearing trousers with very wide legs

The Space Program

• US and other nations were developing space programs • Couturier Andre Courreges "Space Collection" o models wore helmets and the lines were "precise and unadorned" and the shapes geometrical • Velcro; plastic and metal ringed dresses; vinyl for rainwear and other outerwear; plastic jewelry

Microfibers

• Ultra-fine fibers made of nylon and polyester that were used to make high-performance, water-resistant, soft fabrics for skiwear and other active, outdoor sports

Chemise styles

• Unfitted style of dresses; loose • A-line trapeze: introduced in the mid-1950s by Dior and Saint Laurent; dominant silhouette by mid-1960s

Girdles

• Usually extended well above the waistline in order to narrow that waist; made with elasticized panels and with panels of non-stretching fabric; some you just pulled on, or closed with zippers • Formerly called corsets; now also called foundation garments

White bucks

• White buckskin shoes worn by singer Pat Boone • A style directly attributable to television

Lingerie dresses

• White, frilly, cotton or linen dresses with decoration like tucking, pleating, ruffles, lace, and embroidery

Oscar de la Renta

• American designer trained by Cristobal Balenciaga • One of the couturiers to dress Jacqueline Kennedy • Known for red carpet gowns and evening wear

Robe de style

• An evening dress with a bouffant skirt (think Crinoline period) and a dropped waistline • Created by Jeanne Lanvin in 1919 • Popular alternative to the tubular look of this time • Inspired by wide-skirted Spanish styles of early 1600s

Maxi

• Ankle-length skirt; 1960s-80s

Peacock Revolution

• Clothing revolution for men as claimed by Esquire in the 60's • Everything from underwear to evening wear were fancifully colored and styled

Hip Hop fashion

• In the late 1980's and after; B-boys and Fly Girls • Men: baggy pants, football or baseball jerseys, backwards caps, high running shoes with untied laces, clothes were oversized with pants around hips, jeweled clips on teeth, gold chains

The Vietnam War

• Widespread opposition across the nation to the war, lead to demonstrations • Continuing efforts to right segregation and racial discrimination • Rise of feminism • Budding environmental movement: increase of "faux" fur • Peace treaty ending the war signed in 1973 • China and US increased trade of clothing and other things

Pantsuit

• Women's suit with trousers • Discriminated against in the 60s • Became fashionable in the 70s for work and leisure

Alexander McQueen

• Worked in Ready-to-wear in London • Named to succeed Galliano at Givenchy but left and was showing under his own name • Known for provocative shows and linear tailoring

Top coats

• Worn by affluent men who could afford more than one overcoat; ended at the hip • Raglan and chesterfields • Ulsters (with whole or half belts and detachable capes or hoods) • Inverness coats with single or double capes • Mackintosh- anything waterproof • Trench coat

Tailor-made

• Would be called a woman's suit today • Jackets varied in length ending from anywhere at the waist to below the hip • Imitated men's jackets

Yuppies

• Young Urban Professionals; law and business professions • Men: Italian double-breasted "power" suits • Women: "power" suits • Strove to acquire high status possessions

Swirl skirt

• an ethnic style skirt made from bias-cut strips of multicolored fabrics that were often from india

Midi skirt

• mid-calf-length skirt; also called the longuette • Some were convinced it would replace the miniskirt • GAMS (girls against midi skirts) held anti-midi-skirt parades